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Messages - bvparr

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What is this switch for? Push pull switch on dash.

« on: August 03, 2019, 08:16:10 PM »

It is definitely wired in to ignition key and alternator. However, there are three pins on the switch but only 2 wires going to switch. So maybe there was something else in there before that was an original setup. After I had the boat rebuilt like 10 years ago now It has never interfered with anything. Like I said more curious to figure out what it was for. The alternator in there now is fairly new. Have not had any problems with battery degradation or charging issues while having boat out.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / What is this switch for? Push pull switch on dash.

« on: August 01, 2019, 06:40:54 PM »

Need help. This is a 1978 Hawaiian jet boat. I do not know what the hanging push pull switch is? There are 4 on the dash. one is the lights, one is the bilge and one is the blower. The one hanging has only 2 wires going to it. One wire goes to ignition switch and the other wire runs to the back into the fuse panel and it is labeled alternator. Which is has another wire connecting over to the next pin which is labeled battery. Whether this switch is pushed in or pulled out seems to have no bearing on anything. I am trying to find parts (the pull knob and hardware to secure it to dash) so I can actually have it in the dash instead of just hanging underneath. Really just wanting to know what it is for?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Original Hardin Marine Logs/Snails OR Mercruiser 4" Center Riser Exhaust

« on: April 17, 2019, 09:02:54 AM »

Yes. I did that to them already. So if the risers do not fit that is what I am going to put on.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Original Hardin Marine Logs/Snails OR Mercruiser 4" Center Riser Exhaust

« on: April 13, 2019, 06:06:37 PM »

Oh that's right - I need to make sure there is room under the hatch. Thank you for your input.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Original Hardin Marine Logs/Snails OR Mercruiser 4" Center Riser Exhaust

« on: April 13, 2019, 11:43:39 AM »

Hello - Just looking for a little help. Just had a mild 454 built for my Hawaiian. It's .40 over and a full roller. Mild cam by SLR. So here is where I am at - I have the original Hardin Marine logs and snails that came with the 1978 boat. They are in great shape. I also have the Mercruiser 89011 exhaust manifolds with the 816900-C 4" risers. They are also in great shape. The question is if they are your ONLY choices - what ones would you use?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Tuning a twin turbo BBC

« on: April 07, 2014, 05:34:48 PM »

Thank you beerjet and Flusher. I would like to dyno but not wanting to pull out of boat after just installing it. Unless there is a way to do that while it is in the boat?

Flusher - I will look up the part numbers and components for the distributor and mechanical pump. I would feel more comfortable with the original pump that came with this system. It worked fine before. I hope I can install it back on now while the engine is now in the boat. And yes it was the mechanic's personal preference.

Also was wondering what type of boost this system was capable of. From the research it looks like can be around 18psi? So if running pump gas will that affect the boost and not allow it to run up as high vs. running race or av fuel? Also if running pump do I need to have the BTM on 0, 1 2 or 3? Still trying to learn this part. I know the higher the number the more it retards the timing. I was assuming that the the higher the grade fuel the more you need to retard? But maybe I have it backwards.

Thanks so far for all the advice. I have come this far and do not want to hurt it at this point. I will definitely make changes to it before taking it out. Oh and when I do take it out when you say read the plugs what color am I looking for and do I have to pull all the plugs or just one and what one is best to pull?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Tuning a twin turbo BBC

« on: April 07, 2014, 11:38:29 AM »

I was lucky today to talk to World record winning Greg Shoemaker. So here is the changes I will be making:

32 advance timing is okay but better to lock out at 30. I will look into how to do that.
set plug gap at .030
take out fuel regulator no need with a Holley Red
Keep an eye on boost and do not push it up to hard on pump gas. Might need to look into a way to limit or regulate boost. Not sure what this system is capable of.
Set primaries on carb to 1 1/2 turns out and secondaries at 3/4 to 1 turn out.

Take it on on lake and run it under load and see how it does. So that is what I am going to do.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Tuning a twin turbo BBC

« on: April 07, 2014, 11:27:10 AM »

CORRECTION:

It is a draw thru system not a blow thru.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Tuning a twin turbo BBC

« on: April 06, 2014, 11:33:57 PM »

I am needing help on tuning my engine I just had rebuilt and some changes where made to it. Anyway here is what I have and where I am currently at. I will be looking for advice on setting the base tuning to get me out on the water. To note I also want to tune it conservatively as I can not use all the power anyway. So here is what I have:
Chevy 468 LS6
8 to 1 D dished pistons
Engle TCS-7 HYD cam
Race Aero twin turbo system with intercooler using Rayjays
Single Holley blow thru 850 double pumper
MSD 6AL
MSD BTM 8762
Holley Red electric fuel pump - had a mechanical but last shop pulled it off. Worried that the Holley Red will not provide enough psi under boost and should get the mechanical back and put it on. Seemed to work fine before. Think it was just the mechanic's preference.
fuel regulator

I would like to note that this was a proven system for almost 20 years and ran great. The changes to the system are now the fuel pump and that it is in a 28ft Hawaiian jet boat. Came out of a 28ft Fountain with outdrive. The jet has a stage 2 and is rated for 600hp. This engine was close to 900hp.

I currently got it to run on the trailer and all seems okay. But I want to tune it now. So I have the advance at 3500 rpms at 32 degrees and at idle it is around 18 degrees. Gap on the plugs I believe is to wide at .050 and think I should narrow them to .025. When setting the idle it seems to like 1200 rpms and anything lower then 1100 starts to get a little jumpy. When turning in the 4 mixture screws doesn't change anything so I backed them each out 1 1/2 turns. This being the first time for me and not that knowledgeable but learning as I go.

My goal is now to just to be able to use the boat. I want to keep it conservative and will not be racing it. I am also not really sure what to set the BTM at. I will always just use pump 91 gas. So not sure if I have to turn the dial up to 3 or set it at 0 or what?

For tuning I would also like advice on steps of how to do it meaning what do I set first, the idle mixture and rpms or the carb or the idle timing? It seems okay and I was able to run it for a little bit on the trailer parked in the lake. Was a little rough pushing the throttle up to 3500 rpms as I did it slowly. Not sure if that is from too wide a gap on the spark plugs or the fuel pump, but I think it should be smoother then what it is. Also if I rev it quick and drop it back to idle it dies.

As I said before I am worried now about running to lean with this fuel pump and destroying my engine now. So I am afraid to take it out until I make corrections to what I have.

Thank you for any help on this. I am really close this time and am so excited to being finally able to use the boat.

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