They are smart tabs. They are just plastic plates with a shock dampener that raises and lowers on their own, no controls. I just took them off of the boat. I'm hoping they were the problem. Any input on this is very helpful, thanks for taking the time to help me out!


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

I have a feeling this is the problem. Please report back after you run it now that you have removed them.

Adjust the top cable nut so it is flush with the end of the threads and re-torque the bottom nut.

The rod ends don't need to be threaded all the way on.  3/8" thread engagement (not including the jam nut) should be sufficient.  You can do this on both ends of the cable.

If you really want to get ambitious, you can relocate the cable clamp in the shifter assembly.

P.S.  I think Jim Brock still has some wedges available.

It appears the nozzle is up just about as far as it can go. You might be able to get another degree or two, but nothing significant. If you're really looking to shoot big ole tails, you need to start looking at butting some wedges between the bowl and nozzle housing. I have a 4º wedge and a gasket in stock. they run $50 if you would like it.

If you would of called Place Diverter and ordered a 20ft roll of it you would of had it by now and it would be fixed.

Good deal. Finding an installation issue throws my previous theory out the window. Fix it so you know it's right.

A shouldered wear ring protects the suction housing in the event of a bearing failure. When a thrust bearing fails, typically it will force the impeller forward and start chewing up anything in it's way. In the old days before shouldered wear rings, it would eat up the suction housing and it would be ruined. The "shoulder" on the newer wear rings takes that hit now if and when a bearing fails and saves your housing. As GT said, shimming the impeller back is needed in 95% of these installs. Impeller shims normally come in a variety pack of thicknesses so you can achieve proper wear ring shoulder to the leading edge of the impeller clearance.

Shouldered wear rings are perfectly fine in lake boats and even in river racer applications. Full blow drag boat guys don't usually run shouldered wear rings because they like to get that clearance from the housing to the impeller super tight for maximum efficiency. They really are not concerned with wear since they are going very short distances at a time and are constantly having the pump apart making improvements.

Well I'd rather be Overkill they're not have enough so it is what it is and the new pumps spec. Out just right so I'm very happy

If you're happy, that's all that matters. Glad you got something to work.

Sent you a PM.

Use this for setting intakes.

I just wanted to share with you guys that Mcmaster Carr carries the sea goin. And its reasonably priced compared to other places ive seen it.

I just bought the 12 ounce kit (6 ounces of each) and it was about 18.00. They carry the 12, 24, 48 ounce kits as well.

Search for underwater epoxy

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7521a14/=11vo523

Is it true sea goin puty? 1350 series made by Permalite Plastics?

They are easy enough to remove. Why don't you try it 1 day with out and see how you like it. Each boat reacts differently due to size, weight, water conditions, etc, etc. If you notice a difference and don't like it, then put it back on.

I've spun boats out with rudders installed so don't think it's impossible to spin out. It may help prevent it, but it's still possible.

In most boats I have driven, I do notice an improvement in slow speed maneuvering with a rudder installed.

I think your water temp isn't a huge concern. I do agree with your concern with burning the condensation out of the oil though. Going from 50 to 40wt could help bring the temp up a little, but your bearing clearance do seem a tad on the loose side so I I'd be a little concerned there. Something else to consider is to lower the oil level a quart and see if that helps.

Years ago I did some dyno testing with a 10qt Dooley oil pan on a BBC. We ran the engine with a full 10 qts and noticed that the oil psi really started to flutter at high RPM, 6500+. We started lowering the oil level about a quart a pull and each time the psi became steadier, oil temp came up, and the HP number got bigger. We went all the way down to 5qts in the pan just to see if we could keep making more power and it leveled off there. I ran that motor with 6qts in the pan for 6 years and never had issues. I know this isn't a great comparison, but we did see about 20deg more oil temp when we ran 5qts vs the full pan at 10.

Also, your diverter will need to be machined to accept a nozzle insert.