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Messages - nolongergreen

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: what casting number are these heads
« on: August 13, 2014, 09:06:35 PM »
Yes they are ford and i just took a pic of the numbers that were there.
I was really just making sure they werent something like super cobra jets or something really sought after since i told him i didnt need them.
I just thought it was strange to have no casting numbers at all



2
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / what casting number are these heads
« on: August 13, 2014, 08:51:36 PM »
I'm curious about a set of heads I had offered to me today by a buddy. He had them reworked years ago and discovered he still had them but knows nothing about them now. I don't see any identifying numbers like my dove heads in fact they don't have any markings except the numbers 45 right by one of the spark plug holes. They are iron heads since they have some surface rust and i'm probably just gonna pass but I was hoping that there might be something to them since he took the time to prep them at some point.

Does anyone know what they could be?
Seriously there is nothing else on them besides "45"

3
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Rack and pinion steering system
« on: July 19, 2014, 10:11:19 AM »
Still available?

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4
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Alternator problem
« on: July 08, 2014, 06:59:17 PM »
Im not sure what the problem was but I put it all together and put an inline fuse just to be safe leaving out headed to the front.
Works perfect and showing 14 volts on the gauge now.  O0

5
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: One wire alternator
« on: July 07, 2014, 06:38:03 PM »
with my old motorola single wire thats all i had.  a single wire going directly to the battery.  HEI ignition on a switch. no diodes, nothing.

That's exactly how mine is hooked up too.

6
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Alternator problem
« on: July 07, 2014, 06:33:53 PM »
Ok,  today I went to a local shop today that rebuilds alternators and they sold me a marine alternator and put the reverse fan on it for me. They said that if I rebuilt the motorolla it was not going to be worth it because its more expensive than buying one of their marine ones and it only puts out like 30-40 amps when theirs puts out 70.

It cost me 89 bucks....

Im going to put the battery back in, iv'e already mounted the alternator, but im going to put an inline fuse on the main line leaving out to my main switch panel so hopefully I can isolate the problem if its coming from something up front shorting out the thing.

The battery I have is a optima red top and they swear by it that they never go out or give problems. The auto parts store claims someone wrecked their car and one of the cells was broken of the battery and it still worked.

With all that being said, Brand new stuff can be bad too ...

Did I mention in the first post that when i hook up the wire from the alternator it pulls down the motor a few hundred rpms at idle.
That cant be right?

I'm surprised that if it is something up front that i haven't seen smoke coming out from under the dash.

7
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Alternator problem
« on: July 06, 2014, 05:42:24 PM »
The one I had was a Motorola.  Can't get those anymore. .

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8
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Alternator problem
« on: July 06, 2014, 05:41:42 PM »
Also I cannot find an alternator that has the fan turning the right direction.  Is there a part # for a 460 ford alternator that has the fan in the right direction?

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9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Alternator problem
« on: July 06, 2014, 05:40:01 PM »
How do I test for the short? They just called it said it's fine.

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10
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Alternator problem
« on: July 06, 2014, 02:48:52 PM »
Just had it tested and it tested out to be ok but needs a charge. I left it there at auto parts store for them to charge and re-test

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11
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Alternator problem
« on: July 06, 2014, 01:35:04 PM »
Yesterday while out on the water I noticed my volt meter was low and sure enough I had to jump it off to get underway again. I replaced it with a new one and didn't seem to work so I figured I had a broken wire so I found close to the end near the battery the wire was broken so I repaired it. I then started the boat and it read about 13 volts so I assumed I had fixed it. I then saw smoke and found the alternator was hot and smoking. I clipped the wire and that's how it sits.
Any ideas on what's going on with it?
I'm assuming what is causing this but up the other one.

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12
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 11, 2014, 04:35:20 PM »
Guys, as I said in the beginning,  I own a carpet cleaning company. I have never and will never claim to be a mechanic. That is why I come here, a forum full of mostly knowledge. I am doing the best I can and would say I have come pretty far from where I started. If you research out my history here I came here with a hull and a pump which I just rebuilt myself also.
No I do not know the complete purpose of a power valve but I have an idea. Maybe rattling around was not the right phrase but we'll say low on vacuum enough to let it leak.

I have gotten a lot of useful info from alot of people here and I appreciate all the info and help I have recieved, especially the ones who have taken time with going the extra mile and using private messages to explain so I can understand.
Anyone need advice on carpet stains or repairs, feel free to ask. I do have 20 years exp. With that.

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13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 10, 2014, 12:12:43 PM »
So are you saying that the power valves are kinda rattling around causing the idle issue?

Like I say it's really close but I have noticed it kinda takes it a while for it to settle down sometimes close to idle.

It's on and off throttle great but it kinda acts like downshifting a manual shift car when you let out of it close to idle.

I don't mean like downshifting at 4000 rpm, it's like about 1500 rpms to 800 rpms.

 It kinda wants to hang up for a second or two before it settles back down to idle. Not every time though.

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14
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 09, 2014, 08:43:56 PM »
Next time on the water I will nail it from idle and I'm sure all the re tuning will begin. Lol
Seriously though it's perfect how I run it but the thought of a perfectly tuned from idle holeshot sounds very addictive.
Might even get the same slingshot feeling I get when I leave the line on my crotch rocket. ☆

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15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 09, 2014, 08:29:20 PM »
I've got to be honest with you. I have never nailed it from idle. Not sure why but just never have since I bought the boat.
I just always got it up on plane before I nailed it.


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16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 09, 2014, 10:09:58 AM »
 I figured out the idle problem. Just by putting in the water tamed it down alot.
However I believe the problem was is that I linked the carbs together without checking to see that the idle screws were all the way out on both. So either way if you ran the screws all the way out after they were tied together if one wasn't set to zero that one would still hold open with the adjustments all the way out. Once they were linked one would hold the other open just a tad.
I believe this is going to be my final adjustment to get it complete. I'm gonna disconnect the carb throttle linkage tying them together, run idle screws all the way out on both, then reconnect linkage, then try and set the idle once they are both closed completely together.
I got it close but I believe this will get it dead on.

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17
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 09, 2014, 09:35:21 AM »
All is well now. I ran it like described and it layed down when you got on it. I disconnected my linkage that I modified and let the vacuum secondaries do their thing and it works awesome. I even got it to idle down, I believe it had to to do with adjusting both even though linked together doesn't mean they close exactly the same time. The vacuum secondaries have the quick fuel adjustability to slow down how quick they open and I actually had to use that to slow it down a little because they came on so soon it still had a slight bog. I adjusted that out and now it comes on just as it should.
Actually picked up 7mph going from the single carb. Would probably be more than that since I went from an 8 gallon tank in front of the motor to a 17 gallon tank up front in the bow. I know that cost be some speed there but I'd rather have the ability to run a larger tank.

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18
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 09, 2014, 05:38:38 AM »
I'm sorry I wasn't clear.  I ran it with the with the secondaries hooked up mechanically and it ran like crap.
It HAD a huge bog when they came open.
So I took the linkage off and let the vacuum secondaries do there thing and it works perfectly.

It has quick fuel adjustable secondaries with a screw to adjust how quick they open and I actually had to run the screw in to slow down how quickly they open.

So yes, I would say the vacuum secondaries works very well with the tunnel ram on mine.


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19
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 08, 2014, 09:10:49 PM »
Thanks for your help. You were dead on with the whole vacuum secondaries thing.

Why would anyone run  a tunnel ram on a basically stock motor?
7mph gain and like I said there's a 17 gallon tank in the front now verses the 8 gallon tank that sat right in front of the motor before.
It would definitely have gained another mph or  two  if I hadn't relocated the tank.

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20
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 08, 2014, 04:04:49 PM »
Also, once it was in the water I got it to actually idle down where it should be, still tries to surge a little but I'm damn close. Close enough to run it like it is.

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21
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 08, 2014, 04:03:18 PM »
You are absolutely right it ran much better with the vacuum secondaries hooked up like it's supposed to. Had a huge bog in it when you nailed it just as you said.
Runs great now actually picked up 7 mph and that's even with relocating the tank to the front of the boat sitting about 1/2 full which means maybe a 10 mph gain if the smaller 8 gallon tank was still in the back...

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22
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 07, 2014, 04:26:04 PM »
All I have to do is pull a cotter pin out and take the arm off. The vacuum mechanism is still there I'm just bypassing it . Kind of force feeding it..
100% reversible. ..

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23
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Jet question
« on: June 07, 2014, 04:23:44 PM »
Well its not like it's not reversible by pulling the arms off (cotter pin)  and letting the vacuum mechanism do the work. That's still hooked up, I'm just force feeding it.

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24
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 07, 2014, 01:35:34 PM »
Instead of the arms sliding and letting the secondarys open up with vacuum they are pulled open with the front

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25
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: June 07, 2014, 01:33:24 PM »
I modified the linkage arms to look just like the linkage on my 850 dp. No vacuum leaks sprayed carb cleaner all over everything.

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