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Okay, I'll shoot a text in a day or so. Going to a wedding rehearsal right now.what kind of fiberglass resin should I use ?
where are you at?if your willing to help I can go to you is really appreciate it.
where are you at?Rancho Cucamonga
I will be in rancho Friday at around 1 pm if you still want somebody to come by my u-joints are at 1.5 degrees and that's what js marine told me to run withI think it comes down to the fact that I'm going to need help on this. Now I have way to many holes in my stringers and still don't have it done right.
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The correct motor to drive shaft alignment should be the same in each joint.well I reset the motor and now the angle off the H block is at 8 degrees. I couldn't get it any more straight because the feet on the mounts were bottoming out. I even ground some out of the feet to get extra clearance. Is this okay ?
The only reason you need any angle at all is for keeping a rotational load on the cross joints and to rotate the needles in the joints for lubrication purposes.
The best method I have used is to get the motor lined up dead nuts to the pump shaft, then raise all for motor mounts by 1/4". You can also raise just the front, but this gets tricky because the "flex" needs to be in the middle of the drive line, this is stupid difficult and seldom done correctly.
GT
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well you are farther than i hoped,where are you located ? And does the motor itself have to have any angle ?
anyway, get the u-joint to look straight as you can make it, you can take some wood and put it under the motor to help stabilize it from moving around while it's hanging from the cherry picker. then put the angle finder on it. what kind of mount system are you using?and yes 1-3* from the pump is what you are looking for.
hope this helps
ralph
thats too much, where are you located?im in Rancho Cucamonga
okay awesome. Thank you once again.
Gonna catch hell for this from a select "special" few on here for this...
IMHO NO, The reason I like the gate valve is that is has more "adjustability" than a ball valve. The ball valve really has no way to hold it's position and in actuality is too "clumsy".
On the gate valve, you can lock it in place with something as simple as a Zip Tie or tie wrap and lock it down with the packing land. You can adjust it a half a turn at time and it will provide you with years of reliable service.
Oh yeah, and they're cheap.
GT
would a ball valve like this be better then a gate valve ?
Run a cheapo gate valve right off the pipe from the pump, screw in one of these badboyswould a ball valve like this be better then a gate valve ?
(Attachment Link)
Then to one of these dealios
(Attachment Link)
I use the brass quick connect versions of these two parts...
You can literally unscrew the coupler and hook it straight to the hose at the house.
The cheapo gate valve can be used for isolation and to assist in balancing things out.
GT
What engine do you have an where do you boat...I would run a gate valve cause if you blow a line just past it you can shut it off. If your BBF and boat in socal with log style exhaust run it wide open. Home d sells a quick female to female to ease the use of a hose btw. A pic of mine...thank you for the help.
Shooting a little water into the pump don't do much, especially there....okay cool deal thank you for the help. I'm going to change it up tomorrow.
I would rather see you disconnect the drive line if you are going to be running it for any length of time.
Hey Your Mom, might I recommend either installing a brace on the water pipe or maybe a flex connection from the pump to the valve?
Looks like a broken pipe looking for a place to happen.
GT
Run a cheapo gate valve right off the pipe from the pump, screw in one of these badboysahh okay. Does just the motor need water while running on the trailer or both motor and pump ?
(Attachment Link)
Then to one of these dealios
(Attachment Link)
I use the brass quick connect versions of these two parts...
You can literally unscrew the coupler and hook it straight to the hose at the house.
The cheapo gate valve can be used for isolation and to assist in balancing things out.
GT
What engine do you have an where do you boat...I would run a gate valve cause if you blow a line just past it you can shut it off. If your BBF and boat in socal with log style exhaust run it wide open. Home d sells a quick female to female to ease the use of a hose btw.I'm running a 455 olds. And mostly local Elsinore, Perris, etc. Does just the motor need water while running on the trailer or both motor and pump ?
Why the hose bib?
How are you going to control flow?
How will you isolate the line in case of a major hose failure?
Honestly, I don't care for it. Sorry to be a downer...
I would rather see a valve straight to the pipe, then to either a hose bib adapter to a hose.
I guess you could be doing something that I don't quite understand...
GT
