Everything is located west of Phoenix off the I10


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Bump


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https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/boa/5653614933.html


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Got the bulkheads done and test fit the headers. Time to start getting this thing ready for paint


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Schoenfeld makes sbc boat headers in different sizes.

http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/boatmarine.html


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I went ahead and ordered the Schoenfeld headers. They are quite nice for the price. I couldn't find any actual pictures of them on an engine before I ordered, so I'll put these up for someone who may be kicking it around. These are the 1-3/4"-1-7/8" stepped. ONE day I'll have a picture of them in the boat...


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I just removed my bow eye and found the wood back up block rotted where it meets the hull. I've got a spare piece of kd Doug for I plan on using to replace it. I've heard different things about how to glass this in. Should I glass it all the way around, encasing it, or just run a couple strips of glass over it, leaving the ends exposed?


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Oh it doesn't have a setback? I read flushers comments and thought it had a 4" setback. Set back the intake, problem solved! Lol. Now I understand why your engine is winding up so far forward when the pan is past the intake. In this case I would either modify the pan or seriously consider a setback. Do the shoe and rideplate, setback, it will make a big differance I think


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Haha I thought I was doing something wrong over here. I would love if it were setback but I think that's beyond my ability and budget as of now. Maybe next winter that can happen.

I'm going to bite the bullet and order the Canton pan.

Thanks for the help guys


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You want back seat space?

A back seat would be nice but it's not a necessity


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6" forward of your previous 19-1/4" from the transom; uhm, carry the 1.  25-1/4 is aggressive!

Need to look at the whole package.  How far back will the driver be sitting?  Weight of the driver is a concern.  If you are pushing the driver forward, the engine can't go as far forward.

Where is everything else mounted, battery, fuel tank(s), etc?

With a small block, you have a weight advantage of some 200 lbs.  The engine can go forward.  At the same time, it is making less power, resulting in less thrust and therefore less lift is generated.  I feel like the Sicilian in the Princes Bride.  If the weight is too far forward, the water will break over the bow like a tug boat and too far aft it will porpoise.

I would try Brian's suggestion about putting the oil pan sump just in front of the front intake bolts and possibly trimming the flywheel cover.  Can you get to the 22-1/2" range?

If I move the engine to just in front of the intake, everything clears and I can get the engine and pump shaft in line. With the engine in this position, it is 4" forward from where I started, making the rear block surface 26" from the transom or 24" from the pto to the transom. If I move the engine rearward, I start to get oil pan interference. The flywheel cover hasn't interfered with anything so far, just the oil pan which is about an inch below the flywheel cover.
To get to the 22-1/2 range, the oil pan is over the intake and hitting the bolts.

I found an 8qt Canton pan that's 7.5" deep that I can get if the engine needs to come back over the intake.

I was planning on mounting the battery on the inside of the starboard stringer, the fuel tanks are in the gunnels and are 12 gallons. I'm about 180lbs.

I'm thinking the motor should make 450-500hp on fuel.


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Just did one of these with a crazy big pan that cleared without issue.  Where is it hitting?  Is the crank basically inline with the pump shaft or drastically angled?  How far forward is the engine located (distance from transom to bell housing surface at the top of the stringer)?

Even with a 4" setback, I thought the engine sits a bit high in these boats.  I bet you could resolve this without buying new parts.

Sorry, I forgot to answer the distance question. The flange of the pto on the engine is 19 1/4" from the transom at the top of the stringer.


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Just did one of these with a crazy big pan that cleared without issue.  Where is it hitting?  Is the crank basically inline with the pump shaft or drastically angled?  How far forward is the engine located (distance from transom to bell housing surface at the top of the stringer)?

Even with a 4" setback, I thought the engine sits a bit high in these boats.  I bet you could resolve this without buying new parts.

The bottom back of the pan is hitting the second bolts back on the intake. The bolts are cut flush with the nuts and there aren't any threads past the nuts. I was trying to get the crank and pump shafts inline when the pan hit. The picture shows the driveline angle with the motor sitting at 3 degrees, which, I believe is what my corner blocks are angled at (jbp rail kit), and the pan sitting on the bolts. The pan is 8 1/8" deep.


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Stared to install the rail kit today and found out my oil pan is too deep. Any one have a small block pan lying around?


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