doublepost.

Nice boat it sounds awesome! I'm new to this forum I have the same 460 with the Berkeley JE A cut. How much did it cost to get your 460 to the 485hp range?  That is something I would like to do down the road.  Currently My Baja is still stock with 320hp and I'm getting 59mph at 4600rpm on my gps .

I was lucky to get a overhauled 460 for $3100 (todays valuta) with new pistons and bearings, .030 overbored.
If i was going to get my own 460 fixed, which lost oil pressure at full throttle, i would have to pay around $5000 for machining and parts.
Got the heads reworked by a specialist, porting, machined for studs and resurfacing for a little more compression. ($1500)
I also got Scorpion roller rockers, thicker pushrods, camshaft and lifters from Paul (Lakes Only)
I've spent almost $10000 on this motor in total, includes everything from gaskets to flame arrestor.
I have to pay tax and shipping on parts from the states, so every part get's a little more expensive to me.

I might have gained more power with another intake, but as my boat has a motor cover, it can't be any higher than the Edelbrock Performer RPM which i have.
I'm very pleased with the power output, as it was more than i hoped for.

But it's a little sad that i't won't perform in my boat.
I was hoping the cast manifold didn't cut the power that much.. right now my boat only have stock performance.
Turning almost exactly the same rpm as the stock 320 HP motor at full throttle.
Guess i need to get some headers on it instead of the cast manifold.. but jacketed headers are not cheap!

I took the motor cover off to check fuel pressure while driving.

At idle i have 6,5 psi.. at full throttle it pulses between 4-5 psi... 

What fuel pressure are you guys feeding your carbs with ?

Hello.. i got an issue with my boat.

I have a Glastron CVX20 with a Berkeley JE12 pump with A aluminium impeller. Place diverter and the "sports" loader i think.
Pump is recently rebuilt and the impeller looked like new.
Stock this boat comes with Ford 460 rated at 320 Hp, turning the A impeller at 4600 rpm.

Now i have a new built motor, a Ford 466, it did 485 at 5150 rpm in the dyno.
I have been kind to it in the beginning almost just have run it on the primary jets...
So after some days i thought i should open it up and see how it would run at full speed.
At first i notice that the motor stalls for a split second when i open the secondaries, then run as it should..
But it's only turning the A impeller at 4500 rpm.... so i got the same speed as with a stock motor..

What do the jet people think, shouldn't it be going faster?

What mods did you put in the new built 460?


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7 cc dish hypeurectic pistons
Stock C8VE (D3VE) heads ported by a professional, resurfaced 0,040" for a little more compression, also resurfaced intake flange to match intake.
Camshaft and lifters from High flow dynamics, Paul Kane. Dual valve springs from trick flow.
3/8" pushrods, 7/16" studs and scorpion roller rockers.
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
Quick fuel 850M marine carburetor, and a big enough mechanical fuel pump.
Accel distributor with a Pertronix ignitor kit.

Think that was just about it

Thanks.

It came apart pretty easy.
While ordering parts, i was looking at loaders...

I might have made a new thread about the next question, but since i already have this, i will just ask here.

This boat has an 12JE pump with an aluminum A impeller, with a place diverter.
As stock the 460 has 320 hp and i only got 4400 rpm max.

I now have a newbuilt 460, made a little mods to it and it made 485 hp at 5150 rpm in the dyno.

Plan was just to drop it in and see how it will work with the stock A impeller..

But as i mentioned above, i looked at loaders, it's easy to access backside of the screws when it's without motor..
If i replaced the stock loader with this one.. would it be a great idea, or should i just leave it... 

https://www.cpperformance.com/p-13254-ss-super-sport-loader-scoop-for-je-jf-pumps.aspx

Hello

I am in process installing my new engine.. so i figured i would replace the packing rings, when i removed them the pump turns very easy, and i noticed some noise from the bearing when i turned it..
I can not remember any sound from the pump when i was using it in 2017.. and i feel no slack up and down or in and out when i had my hand down the inspection hole.

Is this sound normal, or is it time for replacing ? 

So i got hold of one set. 
Can be deleted.

Looking for M/T aluminum valve covers for Ford 429\460

Doesn't matter if the text on them actually are M/T, Holley, Hardin Marine or no text at all.


Here's the type i'm looking for.

Just get a combo-correct cam, bowl blend the iron heads, and maybe execute a 7/16" rocker stud conversion.  Done, and the cost of such mods ought not exceed $1000.

Thanks for sharing knowledge about this.

I'm repeating myself, but..
Do you mean the Clay Smith recommended camshaft is OK, it's just that i really should have a higher compression ratio and a better exhaust? -to get better use of it

OR should i buy another camshaft?

If no no other camshaft will give me any higher HP because of my exhaust/compression i think i'm just going to go for it..

And then it's the question regarding the lobe separation.
Clay smith at first recommended 108 degree, that would be no problem they said because of my exhaust type, but they could also grind 110 degree on the same camshaft, would also work well they said.
 Would i loose much power with that?

Lots of questions, but i'm struggling here 

Of course if you talk with ten different cam grinders and/or engine builders, you'll get ten different opinions as to which camshaft you should use in your engine.

If you were to remove the current camshaft from your 1979 engine and install the Clay Smith cam shown above, and add ported D3VE heads/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake/Edelbrock 1410 750cfm carburetor as you intend, you might make 425 hp.  The engine will not generate 475 hp in your boat.  It will not generate 450 hp. It might make 425.  Perhaps it could generate more on a dyno at a higher rpm, but your jet pump won't allow it to get there and you'll never experience it in your boat.  Part of the reason for the unexpectedly low resulting power is the camshaft choice itself, another part is the overall engine combination relative to the new cam (although your newly acquired engine in its current state is a fine parts combination). 

If I were building a 460 engine for a jet boat and stuck with using that camshaft, the build would need to have tubular over-transom headers.  Then the power output might get to 475 in your boat.

The peak valve lift advertised on the Clay Smith cam card is right at the point where it would be highly advisable to machine down the D3VE's valve guides for more retainer-to-guide clearance and simultaneously convert them for snap-on stem seals (rather than the OEM umbrella-type seals).  The OEM pedestal valve train could still be utilized including the stamped steel rocker arms if properly set up with pedestal shims and correct pushrod lengths; aftermarket pedestal roller rocker arms might be a nice upgrade but not entirely mandatory.

hmm... choosing the correct camshaft is some science
I have no clue about it, and when Clay Smith recommended one, i felt kind of relief knowing what to buy.

So, @LakesOnly, is it possible to recommend another camshaft for me, who will suit me better?

Or, is the camshaft the right one for my build, i'm just going to see less hp than Clay Smith thought?
As you see at my boat type, over-transom headers is not an option.


Regarding those iron heads, they have valve springs with damper, and are converted to snap-on stem seals.. might be hard to see on the pictures but.
The exhaust valve seats are replaced and stainless valves are put it.
I am thinking of converting to roller rockers, the guy who got the heads right now will fix so i can mount studs, he will also fix the valve guide for more lift if it is needed.

As you see on the pictures, the heads are actually E8TE, but i've read they are exactly the same as the "more known" D3VE, so therefore i wrote that number.
 

Throw away the stock heads and get a set of aluminum aftermarket heads. That will add a bunch of horsepower as the iron heads are crap.

I don't agree with you, as long as the stock heads are ported they're not crap..

I would really like aluminium heads, but the costs is just too high for this build.



@Steveo909

I will get the heads machined so i can use any roller rocker kit.
Do you have a link to your comp rollers online steveo?


ClaySmith answered with my setup, and that cam i should see about 475 hp and rev 5000-52000 rpm. Sounds awesome to me.


Only thing i am concerned about is the lobe separation which was 108 ....  i have read a lot about "sucking water" because when you have such thigt separation the inlet and exhaust valve is opened at the same time for a little time.
I will ask Clay about that also

Any experiences with 108 lobe separation on wet exhaust here ? 

Removed heads