Null

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Water-Man

Pages: [1]
1



Hey Flusher,

 I am not rich so because of that I actually take all the maintenance of my investment very seriously. It's also the reason Im seeking out people who know more than I do when it comes to these things. I grew up in and  around boats, I design them, and I could drive a boat long before i ever drove a car. But the Jet pump is a new beast to me. So, maybe after a few hours of running the pump, once the boat is put together and engine installed etc. I will replace the wear ring with a standard one. I will also be removing my Droop, and likely also my Place Diverter because Im not going for top end straight line speed. Im looking at running white water, albeit deep white water but very aerated. So, Im looking for low end, hole shot, and agility as well as the ability to run in some pretty big white water. so I will add an inducer once the boat is set up. Ill keep all those points in mind. the condition of the pump looks to be excellent from what I can tell, but I think Im going to add a shim anyway, maybe .005" so it will free up the spin a bit on the pump.  As always , thanks for the input!. Im open minded to anything being said.



2
You ever try to pressure wash greasy car parts without chemicals?  The water just pushes the grease around.  It would be best for you to open the pump and actually see what you have, that way, you know.

Are you saying that this pump was already run?

To disassemble/reassemble, you will need an impeller nut socket and shaft socket.  You may or may not need an impeller puller.  The impeller should come off with some effort.  If corrosion, you will need a puller.  Please don't use a pipe wrench on the shaft, especially the splines.

When you check the front clearance, check at 3 and 9 o'clock positions.  I struggle to fit my meat paws, fumbling a feeler gauge, through the hand hole cover.  Not my favorite method.

I prefer to put a dial indicator on the splined end of the shaft, parallel to the shaft centerline.  Zero the indicator with the impeller pulled all the way to the rear.  Push the impeller forward and take a reading on the indicator.  That is your front clearance (and rear clearance).  With the bearing cap removed, you could use a dial caliper to measure from the cap gasket surface to the thrust bearing, in a similar manner as described with the dial indicator.

For measuring the impeller, a 12" dial caliper works best.  You really only need to measure the large diameter.  The angle should be 33-degrees to the shaft.

While you have it apart, make sure you sharpen out any dings in the leading edges of the impeller and inducer if applicable.
Once again i really appreciate the help!! ill need to buy some of the tools.  could a 1-13/16" spanner work for the impeller shaft nut?
I am told it hast been run by the previous owner, to my knowledge. but since the wear ring is an UWR, then wouldn't the grease be necessary?  curious. especially since the impeller is so tight. but Rick Bourns and the guy who sold me the pump said just run it like it is? im going take your advice and just tear down the pump to the impeller. 





3
I no longer have a sense of humor, so I never laugh at anyone.

Did Dwayne build the pump?

It is possible that it was intentionally assembled without a bearing cap in anticipation of installing a JetAway.  Check in front of the packing clamp to see if the seal is turned around backwards (lip towards the thrust bearing).  Standard would be the lip towards the impeller.

I'm not saying that there is anything wrong an Ultimate Wear Ring, it's just not our preferred method.  Regardless, the shaft should rotate, a full 720-degrees, without any tight spots.

No bearing cap/JetAway could allow the thrust bearing, and therefore the impeller, to move forward and rub.  With a stainless or bronze wear ring, we would set the front/rear clearance ranging from .035-.065 (.125 is stock Berkeley). Depending on usage.

As far as a dirt magnet, the pump will pick up a surprising amount of debris from simply towing.  That's why I don't think grease on the wear ring is a good idea.  It's also a good idea, at the ramp, to dunk the boat, submerging the pump, pull forward to rinse the pump out, then drop it in the water.  Anything that you can do to keep abrasives out of your pump will help maintain a tight clearance.

Well the Dude I bought it from, used the Bearing Cap on another boat. but today Rick from CP Performance, said he thought that the pump was built "tight"  this pump was actually used as a racing pump on lakes or so the seller said. Rick also thought the impeller was a B cut so im wondering how to check that for certain? he said the grease would get blown out anyway from the water pressure.
I actually asked David from Hi-perf to check his records to see what had been done to it but i guess he didn't find anything...
regardless, Im getting a shim kit sent to me and add a shim to give the pump some better tolerances. it is rubbing against the wear ring, can't fit and feeler into it at all.



4
It's .025 total, .0125 per side.
Flusher. ok your likely going to laugh at me. Its cool. I am just learning. but I received the pump without a bearing cap. and Im guessing that would be the problem (facepalm) ... wouldn't it push the shaft maybe 0.005" out , and that would free up the shaft considerably?  also i did check the gap and the outside of the pump clearance seems to be about 025" but the inside is nearly flush or flush with the  UWR.
i am unable to get a 025" gap gauge into it. however I am betting the bearing cap will solve this. Rick Bourns got back to me (did not know about the bearing cap missing and the UWR) and said it will be fine, and that the pump was probably set up that way. so I guess Im not so worried. but  I ordered some shims and a bearing cap kit. ill keep you updated. thx again for listening to an old fool try to learn new tricks.

5
  Be advised that you may very well have an Ultimate Wear Ring, it would be an orange colored urethane and would most likely be set up with interference against the impeller.

Flusher. you are correct. it has The Ultimate wear ring. pleasant surprise(?).
 I removed the packing gland to make sure. Its even tighter than before.
I can fit a "25" feeler into the gap between the wear ring and the impeller but will double check that with a proper feeler later.

 so maybe  now I have to take the whole pump apart?  ugh.

would the interference be that tight?

 

6
Yes, the packings make it difficult to turn.  Everything you said is accurate.  I really don't like the idea of grease on the wear ring.  There should be .025 clearance between the impeller and wear ring, it shouldn't touch.  Grease in the wear ring area is a dirt magnet that will turn into a lapping compound that will quickly open the clearance and decrease performance.  Be advised that you may very well have an Ultimate Wear Ring, it would be an orange colored urethane and would most likely be set up with interference against the impeller.

Flusher, thank you for the confirmation.  I posted this on 3 different sites just to try to get a some insight into it. I really
appreciate the response. so far your the only one. I live in a different time zone. this was the earliest I could respond back.
 So to check the wear ring colour i would have to pull the bowl, check to tolerance, and if it was not set properly. i would need to pull the impeller? then degrease the wear ring as well. This pump was set up for running lakes at high speeds, so they probably weren't worried about sand. I will change that. much appreciated.

7
Jet Pumps / Is turning the shaft by hand supposed to be difficult?
« on: May 25, 2021, 09:33:55 PM »
quick question. since im learning new things about the Berk/AT pump I just bought.



 the pump has been completely reconditioned. But the stamp shows this was done in 12/2002, by hi-tech performance.
the inside of the tunnel and all parts look nearly new, there is not a scratch inside the tunnel.

so Im guessing(hoping) it has not been used since the rebuild.

When I tired to turn the pump by hand, I could barely get it to turn. After  doing it for a couple minutes it started to free up
and I could turn it with both hands using one inside the cleanout port and the other on the spline.
In fact I have blisters on my hand from turning the shaft.

it appears to feel like resistance against the side of the wear ring, based on feel at a certain points.
 there is no grinding noise.(but it is lubricated).just a slight sliding or swishing sound.

After talking to Alex at intermountain marine here in Canada, he told me that the new packing glands would make it difficult to turn.
and I know they must be water lubricated and have a slight "drip" about once every minute.

I am assuming new packing gland. The Impeller is greased heavily at the wear ring.
Zero end shaft play (horizontally or vertically). seems the impeller feels tight to
the wear ring?

it has a bronze impeller.
 IS this normal for a reconditioned pump to be that tight? or any pump?

Pages: [1]

Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026