Would you be interested in just selling the interior?

Multigrades
Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures. In other words, multigrade oils are formulated to pass viscosity tests across a range of weights. For example, 10W30 meets the requirements for 10-weight at cold temperatures and 30-weight at high temps.
The multigrade oils' viscosity modifiers are long-chain molecules that lessen the change of viscosity with temperature variance. In the past, the polymer additives (used to thicken the oil) were sometimes susceptible to viscosity loss. Permanent viscosity loss occurred when high shear forces (such as the relationship between the main bearings and the crankshaft) actually break the polymer molecules into less-effective smaller pieces. On a similar note, temporary viscosity loss also occurred when the polymer molecules aligned themselves in order to create a path of least resistance.
Fortunately, today's additive packages have improved oil's shear-resistance. However, oils with the same rating from different manufacturers can exhibit different viscosity ratings in an operating engine, depending on the shear stability of their viscosity-modifying additives.
For technoids, weights are defined thusly (stokes and centistrokes are measurements of viscosity):
"SAE 30 is SAE 30 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 0W, 5W or 10W. This viscosity in centistokes (cSt) @ 100 degrees C is with the minimum of 9.3 cSt and a maximum of 12.5 cSt.
"SAE 40 is SAE 40 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 20W. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C is within the minim of 12.5 cSt and a maximum of 16.3 cSt.
"SAE 50 is SAE 50 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 25W. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C is within the minimum of 16.3 cSt and a maximum of 21.9 cSt.
"SAE 60 is SAE 60 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 10W, 15W or 25W. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C is within the minimum of 21.9 cSt and a maximum of 26.1 cSt.
"There is no SAE 70 and no one is likely to make one with a "W" prefix number although it is possible using a synthetic base oil. This viscosity is identified as Grade 70. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C has a minimum of 26.1 cSt and no maximum."
The difference between a multigrade and a singlegrade oil: The singlegrade can't pass the low temperature viscosity test. If it did meet one of the following "W" viscosities, it would be a multigrade.
Singlegrade oils will become obsolete for performance engines in the future. We dropped SAE 30 and SAE 40 because SAE 10W40 does everything 30 or 40 can do—and some things the straight grades can't do—like increasing horsepower. If an off-roader doesn't like 10W40, then use 20W50. It can do everything a 10W40 can do except pass the sub-zero viscosity test at -20 degrees C.
Multigrade viscosities are run at six different sub-zero temperatures. When a racing-oil designer puts a formula together, he has to know the viscosity at 100 degrees C of every component in the additive composition. He has to have a target viscosity objective for the finished oil in each SAE grade. Once a formula is established, the technician who supervises the blending has to duplicate this formula in the correct proportions every time the product is blended. The viscosity at 100 degrees C has a plus or minus written into the oil's quality-control specification.

Hi David! welcome to SoCal.

LOL!! One of the main reasons I have found, is so you dont fill the back of your boat with water when using reverse! 

To all of our servicemen who have fought for the freedoms we have today.

Also, for the Families & Loved Ones of this Great Countries Service Men & Women, I want all of you to Know. You are always in our Prayers, and quite a Few of Us. HAVE YOUR BACK!!   

I just talked to him again Nordie. I think you may be right. Its just the nature of the beast. thanks for the replies fellas.

a friend just boutght 90 ski centurian. only had it out a couple times. this last time out he said the boat feels as if the right (starboard) side feels like its riding a bit lower when on plane then the left, the right wake is taller and the spray from strakes. being a jet boat person myself, I'm not to sure what his issue is. he has not added any weight to that side of the boat, has seen no water draining out of, or in the bilge. the skaggs in the middle of the hull are straight. the prop shaft is not aligned with the rudder, but this may be design (so you can pull the shaft) any thought would be greatly appreciated. oh yeah, heres a pic of the shaft and rudder from the back.

Gotcha, that makes good sense. Since the addition of the Panervator. I have developed a bit of cavitation right out of the hole. It does not Cavitate with my stock exit housing in Place. Thus the need to see what is going on pressure wise. Heres a short clip on the trim Im getting out of the nozzle since I cleaned up Panthers Mediocre Machine work.

Thanks SteveCat! I did a search here and didn't really find what I was looking for. I think you answered what I wanted to know. Besides me being the curious/experimental type. I had hoped someone had made a few conclusions about the pressure differentials. At least now, besides just recording my findings, I can make some kind of usefull assumptions from the pressures I get. Thanks again for the info. Oh, BTW I remember the old addage about assuming.....so.......(trying to duck the snide comments) S. Mac

Has anybody or any group of jet boaters for that matter. Recorded intake pressures and relative bowl pressures. I was wondering if there was any insight to be gained by this. I realize it is probably a per hull/pump combo kind of thing. but it seems that there should be some knowlege or troubleshooting info from it. for instance you change nozzles from 3" to 3 1/4" wouldnt your intake pressure stay the same and your bowl pressure be less at the same RPM. Then what would the result be in terms of holeshot and top end? Im just trying to get a feel on what people out there have found. even though I dont have a high end pump. (mine's a Panther) Im always looking for little things for improvement. With my stock exit housing I have no cavitation and a great holeshot. My motor turns the pump 5400 to 5500 RPM at about 58 mph. When I swapped with the Panthervator one I have, Its like a slipping clutch. Theres no way I can floor it out of the hole, unless I wish to rev my motor passed 6200 RPM. with nothing else changed, other then the exit housing.
  So I tapped a couple 1/8" inch holes, one in the suction housing area, and one in both exit housings in the same place. The rear ones are just above a stator vane, as thats where the cooling system pick up is located as well (just above a different vane) I figure thats probably the highest, high pressure area. heres a couple pics.



After I go get a little data, maybe then I can figure out whats going on. anyones previous pressure findings would ne great to hear.

from past experience, with mine anyways. The Panthers create enough suction to steal air from around the back of the pump. or also if there is to much impeller to pump case clearance. If the tailshaft bushing hasnt been lubricated enough, the bushing wears and allows the shaft to wobble. In turn the heavy stainless impeller will gouge out the housing (creating excessive clearance) the factory clearance spec. is .025" to .030" on each side of the impeller. If it is a sleeved pump you can reduce this to .010" to .012". the biggest clue to excessive wear is cavitation at take of (according to Panther) it is also much more noticeable on bigger DayCruiser Style Boats with Big Blocks. the smaller boats and boats with little blocks dont seem to have as much of an issue when the pump gets worn. 

is that duck tail split in your roost from the spliter upright within the pump?

it looks great. I would really be happy with my boat if i had that addition to the cool factor.

My stock panther hits 57 MPH. and that is not bad. that is why i have not done the energizer kit yet. panther claims you can get another 15% out of it. but i dont see my boat doing 65 MH. buy hey maybe. just got to wait for this pump to go bad.

oh and if there is any question on the panther just ask the guys from the lake mead trip. LOL

LOL! Yup, the steering fin splits it. makes it kind of unique. Like I mentioned before, I did this by cleaning up Panthers Mods. I am actually pretty amazed with the Height and Length of the tail. I did lose a little top speed, like 3 mph by my speedo. But I havent played with my ride plate or anything yet. One new trait though, is a little cavitation right out of the hole. Which I am investigating currently. other than that I am pretty happy with the outcome compared to how crappy this diverter worked at first. 

Thanks guys those charts are great!