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i work at chevron refinery and steal anything not bolted down
ok , lets start with the first question. can you run to much oil? that answer is dont do it. its better to run less than more. those lines on a dipstick. have full then slashes then 1qt down some have 2qt down. anywhere in the run range is fine . the full mark is basically dont go over or else! putting to much in is asking for all of your seals to fail. in your oil pan while its running there is a pressure with more oil than what is recommended that pressure will push the oil out an place it can!!! seals first then gaskets. also when your crank comes in contact with a bath of oil not only will it froth it , it also loses power. most oil pan manufactures will set you up with the right dip stick or help with the right length.
I haven't run the Rotella but I do run the Chevron Delo 400 15w40 (Both good quality diesel oils that I believe still contain zinc).
thats why I was asking, I think this would be much better on an old school motor.
when i set my dipstick level i used the low side of the main caps as a reference for the "full" mark. this put some of the crank in oil when it wasnt running, but once running and fluid was pumped thru the heads should be lower than the crank to prevent wicking it in the oil and creating a big frothy oily mess.
curious what the experts say for oil levels... hopefully i did mine right.
5 quarts of oil will get HOT in a hurry at WOT. I'd watch my temp climb and pressure drop with a 12qt pan on a 500ish hp BBC....in less than 8 miles...oil pressure was....well, not good. Run a good oil like Total
Quartz racing 15/50 that can handle temps, at the very least. Group 3 base stocks can't hang.
X2 on the accumulator
The internal combustion automobile engine does use heat to some extent and which helps the engine make power and also the engine will last longer (reduced wear) if the operating temperature is higher than lake water temp. With a wide open gate valve, most boats typically run at 120*-130* F. If you start turning the gate toward the closed position you will eventually begin to see a water temperature rise in your engine (usually less than 1-1/2 turns open from fully closed).Cool thanks I did not know that, Ill give it a try
You will get varying opinions on a good water temp for a jet boat; I like to run my engine at about 160" as controlled by the gate valve (no thermostat) while running hard. Then, upon entering a 5 mph zone the temp might spike to 190* (because water flow has decreased with decreassed rpm) and then it will settle back down to 170 or so. So I don't go any higher than 160* while running across the lake because I don't want to "steam" (boil the cooling water in the engine) when I enter the 5 mph zone.
LO
The Kaase pump is a standard volume pump. Based on the way you run your jet boat ("wide open for 5-10 mins at a time"), I would strongly recommend adding an HV pump when you install the jet boat pan. (I almost always recommend HV pumps for 460 powered jet boats.) There's probably no need to mess with your engine program now if it's working for the time being...but do keep an eye on your oil pressure gauge.
LO
larger pan is *always* better. a million dollar high pressure or high volume pump isnt gonna do crap when theres no oil in the pan.
$10 gate valve from local hardware store here. HD didn't have any for 3/8 or 1/2.
Ball valve is more on/off. Gates are what you want for flow control.
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pull it out and take it back.
only a couple hours and you will thank yourself later! just .02
ka0tyk,
Thanks. Is there anything I need to disconnect at the drive/pump connection? I think this is pretty straight forward. I just want to fix the oil leak and freeze plugs with out messing anything up or having to do major adjustments after reinstall.
Jim
& since its a JE pump should I change out the impeller to stainless steel?
Is it normal for a pipe on a 07 yfz 450 to glow red
perv, you have a fine cruiser and i would tend to keep it that way. you can build a 500hp engine that is very reliable and still run the log exhaust. if you want to go fast find a different hull jmho...
If you really believe all that , you are just lying to your self cause you have one! There is a reason why they stopped making them a loooong time ago! And a reason why you will never see one at any race , circle or drag!
Hey no biggie, thats why im on here lol, to look & learn.
Spectra hulls are typically very well built but heavy hulls, you may want to lower your expectations a wee bit...
A heavy hull, coupled with a somewhat inferior performing pump package and I think you are going to be floating in Disappointment Bay....
To get these pumps to work takes quite a lot of thought. Being an "insert" type intake, the ramp is both short and steep, this really limits the performance expectation reality.
It can and has been done, but I think it would be more realistic to shoot for a 65 MPH family cruiser and use the money you saved to find a "Hot Rod". Realistically you would probably need to be in the neighborhood of in excess of 750 HP and have made numerous changes to both the hull and the pump to achieve the mid 70's with what you have to work with thus far. Whereas a different hull and pump package could do it with less than 600 ponies....Food for thought.
not trying to be a kill joy, just trying to be "real".
GT
you can get a dished piston to keep the c/r down with the 72cc chambers that most aftermarket alum heads come with. the pro-comp is available in 72 and 95 cc combustion chambers as well as the edelbrock heads ( both standard valve layout). both flow less than the other heads i stated before... they make off the shelf pistons for the stroker kits for the p-51 and newer scj a or b heads. ( both have non stock valve layout)
there are many options for the bbf, do your research befor buying your parts.
ralph
