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Messages - Oldsquirt

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1
Hulls / Re: HIN in question
« on: October 08, 2018, 11:25:57 AM »
I'll bet the true HIN is molded into hull hidden behind the metal tag.

I don't think anyone was using that style deck back in 1971, either.

Probably a case of lost title or high overdue DMV fees, so they swapped title's with another boat, or , worst case, trying to cover up the HIN of a stolen boat.

2
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: Ride Guide Steering Cable Needed
« on: August 26, 2018, 09:32:10 AM »
Sorry I'm a bit late getting back to you. The cable I have measures 14' from fixture going into the rack to the threads going into the steering tube. It is stamped 16' 6" which I assume is the overall length of the inner cable. I know it was a bit longer than the original from my 18' Tahiti. If yours is marked 12', can I assume you have a 16' Tahiti?

3
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: Ride Guide Steering Cable Needed
« on: August 23, 2018, 11:17:19 AM »
That is the same Mercury steering I have. I will try to get down to my storage today or tomorrow to check the length.

4
Miscellaneous / Spam / Re: Ride Guide Steering Cable Needed
« on: August 22, 2018, 06:51:23 PM »
Is this for the rack where the cable passes through the inside of the rack and bolts to it?  If so, I have a complete assembly with what was a fairy new cable when I pulled it from my 73 18' Tahiti many years ago. If it is the correct length, it is yours for the price of shipping(from NorCal). Post a pic of the rest of the assembly.

5
Jet Pumps / Re: Spinning out when getting up around 40-45ish
« on: June 16, 2016, 08:35:36 PM »
The JE pumps came stock with a "cavitation plate" which in a JE is often mistakenly called a "ride plate". They are MANDATORY on the JE. Since yours is missing, I would start by acquiring and installing the stock cavitation plate and rechecking operation.

6
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What do you suppose went here?
« on: February 14, 2016, 01:31:30 PM »
Look up "cam bore plug"  Volvo # 1397381

7
If you are talking about separating the ball joint, that style  does not come apart. You need to remove the nut and pull the stud out of the pedal arm, then unscrew the other half from the cable. There is another style of ball joint that does come apart. It has a spring loaded sleeve that keeps the ball in the socket.

8
Hal, you should be able to get the clearance you want by simply purchasing a set of bearings that are -.001 from what you have. In other words, buy a set of .009" main bearings and .019" rod bearings. If that leaves you with too much clearance, then use 1 .009" and 1 .010 per journal for mains and make the same split with the rods, if they need it.

9
Projects / Re: 82 Eliminator Sprint
« on: September 26, 2013, 08:20:30 PM »
Looks like your Sprint has the narrow stringers---1x instead of 2x  material-- That is pretty rare. I suspect the pump setback may be factory as the only other narrow-stringer Sprint I know of also had a factory setback. That boat is owned by Jim DeBoard who posts as Howler439 over on Performance Boats. You might want to contact him and compare notes.

Could we get a pick of the transom just below the pump as well as a shot of the bottom going forward from transom.

Oldsquirt---another Eliminator Sprint owner

10
Hulls / Re: Who makes this boat???
« on: September 26, 2013, 07:24:12 PM »
After doing a quick google search on "Eliminator Formula", I'd say it is definitely NOT an Eliminator Formula. After rotating the pics, I'll say that I doubt it is an Eliminator at all. Never seen that hull from them.

Do a google search on "Riviera Jet boat". Looks like a good candidate. One of the few with a rib down center of front deck and that particular style of rear deck. Also has similar chine set up at rear.

11
Hulls / Re: Who makes this boat???
« on: September 26, 2013, 05:30:15 PM »
That Hull ID number was issued by the state of California for a "home built" hull. That is what the "CFZ" portion of HIN  indicates. Likely done for lack of proper paperwork and no visible ID number. If the boat has been repainted the HIN was likely filled in. I have no idea what hull that is, but it might be easier to ID if you rotated the pics so they were upright. :)

12
Hulls / Re: Check this race hull out-
« on: September 18, 2013, 05:54:50 PM »
Although that looks to be an 18' gullwing, it doesn't look like a CP . The deck resembles the one that ended up as the Wicked Boats gullwing.

OP, you need to get the Hull ID number from the seller.

13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Oil pan hits intake need help.
« on: August 17, 2013, 09:04:12 PM »
Nate, define "stock". BBC pans come in two common depth ranges.  "Stock" automotive pan is shallower then "stock" truck. Truck pans will not work. What is the pan rail-to-bottom of rear of pan measurement?

14
Jet Pumps / Re: Bowl housing warm after run today
« on: June 16, 2013, 05:17:39 PM »
Totally normal. When you shut off the engine it is full of hot water. As you pull up the ramp, it flows backwards through the pump, heating up the lower part of the bowl.

15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water temp
« on: May 25, 2013, 10:46:23 PM »


I think I agree with you, but I couldn't quite make out the post...

While I agree, I think there may be something wrong.

You're a better man than me if you could decipher that ... :sly:

GT

I had to read his description a couple times, but came to the conclusion he has water entering engine at the t-stat housing and exiting from the water pump plate. If so, his temp gauge(assuming it is in the manifold water crossover) is reading temp of preheated water entering engine, rather than exit water temp. I would hate to see what the actual exit water temp is in that setup with 160 as the incoming temp.

16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water temp
« on: May 25, 2013, 10:07:28 PM »
Chad, sounds like you have the hoses from water outlet(t-stat housing) and water pump plate mixed up. Incoming water should flow from pump to "T" to logs to water pump plate. Water leaves via the water outlet on manifold and goes to bottom of snails. There should not be a t-stat in use unless you have a specialized setup designed for one. Typical jet boat does not use one.
This may be one reason you can't get to your target temp, the temp sender is measuring incoming water temp, not the outgoing water temp.
BTW, there is no reason to try to achieve the kind of temps you are accustomed to seeing in a road vehicle. There is no comparison between a boat with open cooling system and the closed cooling of a car or truck.

17
The No Wake Zone / Re: Place diverted?
« on: June 05, 2012, 10:31:45 PM »
That looks like the American Turbine trim. Check it out under products--> performance parts at http://www.americanturbine.com/

18
Boats For Sale / Re: Brand new CP Gullwings for sale in Corona
« on: May 12, 2012, 09:11:14 PM »
Jason/Riverdad also has a CP mold of his own and can plug a brand new hull out. I dont think he's charging $20k... i thought it was more about 10-15...



Jason sold his mold to Bill Scotten, owner of California Performance(CP)...............

19
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: another problem
« on: March 26, 2012, 06:27:15 PM »
finally got the motor started and went to hook up the water to run it and check timing. hooked the hose up to the water line and it floods the motor  :banghead: :banghead: :mad:  no idea why it did that. when running it with the hose before pulling the motor it worked fine. anything different now that i am running stacks and not through the transom ??

You should probably start by describing how you have the system plumbed.

20
The No Wake Zone / Re: Praise the lowered?
« on: February 11, 2012, 12:17:57 PM »
I put a 3/4 on mine first day I got it and I've been lovin it since 04'. Just make sure to use quality parts made for your truck. Geometry is everything cheapies are never right...

Whose kit did you use? Do you have a profile pic of your truck? I've got an '01 I'm considering dropping.

21
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: BBC mock-up block on CL
« on: February 11, 2012, 12:10:56 PM »
Hmmm might have to go scoop that up.

Don't waste your money unless you plan to use it for mock-up in a car or truck. For mock-up in a jet boat, they are virtually worthless as there is no crank centerline to reference.

22
The No Wake Zone / Re: I'm giving up welding.....
« on: December 13, 2011, 03:18:25 PM »
John Marcella sure does some beautiful work. :thumbup:

Here is an entire thread of his work ----->>>Marcella Manifolds Pics


And another-------->>Sheet metal manifold pics

23
Jet Pumps / Re: Double drilled bowl, what type of gasket or sealant?
« on: December 13, 2011, 09:55:36 AM »
Both Rex Marine(rexmar.com) and ARS Marine(arsmarine.com) list double drilled bowl and nozzle gaskets on their websites. Being in Kansas, you are close to Hi-Tech Performance. Although not on the website(hi-techperformance.com), I would expect Duane would probably have them, also.

24
Jet Pumps / Re: Loader Grate
« on: October 14, 2011, 09:37:21 PM »
Your data is awesome...Now you know why we always build two loaders.....Cut too far, you can't get the sh!t back in the horse... :sly:

GT

Before I started trimming, I already knew if I went too far I could send it back and have ramps the length I wanted put back on. 8)

25
Jet Pumps / Re: Loader Grate
« on: October 14, 2011, 09:30:56 PM »
When you install a loader, it's not a case of "bolt it in and you're done", especially if you are buying an "off the shelf" , "one size fits all" loader. You also need to see where the leading edge of the loader is relative to the keel. In most cases they will hang down well below.  You really need to trim the ramps back to get the desired balance between better loading of the pump and , for lack of a better term, "drag"
from the ramps.

Ray, your case is a prime example. The 500 rpm drop indicates that your pump is not loading very well without that loader. However, the fact that the boat feels like the tail is stuck to the water indicates the ramps hang too low. You should have cut them back a little at a time to find the proper balance. I have no doubt you would be gaining speed with a little trimming.

For the record, here's my story. Eliminator Sprint with a delta pad to which the previous owner added a small "bubble" ahead of the intake. Pump has been machined for shoe and rideplate and has a diverter.
Ran a pretty consistent 80mph at 5400rpm with a rock grate. Borrowed a friends loader and and saw a gain to 85 mph. Purchased a custom loader from Jack at MPD. At the same time, I acquired an Edelbrock QuickData and set it up to measure upper and lower intake pressures. With the loader installed "as-is", I saw 82 mph. Negligable rpm change. Upper pressures were way higher than the lower. Clamped the loader in a mill and moved the leading edge back 5/8"(which only raised it about 1/8"-3/16") and beveled the edge same as it had been originally. Again, saw 82. Rpm dropped about 50, pressures didn't change much. Took another cut on the ramps. This time I left the trailing edge of the bevel just in front of the access hole for rear mounting bolts, probably about another 5/8" shorter ramp. This raised the leading edge about 1/4". This cut took my speed to a consistently repeatable 89+ mph. Rpm was now 5200-5250. Upper pressure was still higher than lower but the lower was coming up compared to earlier tests. With a little time spent on ride plate angle and diverter angle, got it to 90.4mph (90.6 with header water off and Basset header mufflers removed). Loader has been cut back again and ready for another test but boat has not been back in the water. So to summarize, switching from a rock grate to a loader gained me 2mph. Trimming the loader ramps gained me another 7 for a total gain of 9mph. I have no doubt that the additional untested cut will bring a little more speed.

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