Thinking about storing bulk fuel out at our place in parker in the detached shed.  The shed is covered, on the north side of the structure and has a couple vents (2 on the floor and one at the peak).  I figured a pressure relief valve would be in order with the extreme heat.  Planning on getting a steel 55 gal drum and a 12v electric transfer setup.
Does anyone else do this?  If so, what is some tips/tricks? 
Is it a bad idea?

Thnx

thanks for the heads up on garage sales.  Ill be keeping an eye out

Sold

I called comp cams. They ask all the right questions as far as your set up, impeller, etc. you tell them what you are looking at getting out of it and they will suggest the cams they would recommend. Very easy and quick way to get a little more info.


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

Thnks for the info guys. I think I know which way to go.


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

The pump is mounted in the normal mechanical pump Spot off the side.

I put my old pump back on with new needle and seats and all is good.

So the needle and seats were bad but I replaced them a year ago.

So I was wonder if this is a common problem. The 8psi pump blowing the seals every year or is something else going on. The boat was in the garage all year and wasn't outside.

I have options, but I'm just trying to figure out the best configuration based off of others experience. I don't wanna just buy parts to try and figure it out if others have had this issue.

So maybe a 5.5-6.5 psi pump with more volume than a stock 460 fuel pump? 

Or a higher PSI pump regulated down to whatever my sweet spot would be?




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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

Ford 460 stock internals (except the cam) with a holly DP 750.

Went to fire the boat up before the trip and gas shot up out of primary vent tube. So I checked the floats and all was good as well as the needle and seats. Cranked it again and another geyser of fuel blew thru the vent tube. So I switch the primary and secondary needle/seats and the same thing happened again.

Check the holly website and they said anything over 7 psi will cause a flooding situation. I was at 8 when cranking. So I got another fuel pump rated for 6.5 psi and all was good.

Went out for some bug runs and at 4K RPMs I would lose all pressure, but if I stayed under 4K rpm all was good. Ran into Parker and got some needle/seats and put the old 8 psi pump on and all was normal.

My question is how is everyone else configuring their fuel delivery?  Are my needle/seats gonna go bad every year?  Should I just keep some on hand?  Or should I get a 8+ psi fuel pump and regulate it down? 

I've search here on the boards and didn't come across a thread with the same issue as mine. I know the different options out there with self regulating fuel pumps, but I'm fine with a mechanical, or do I need a higher volume pump with a lower PSI?

I'm just a little confused with holly saying 7 psi is bad, but my I need something rated at 8 psi to run over 4K.

Thoughts?


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

i have the same year hallet and had as much foam as you also found 6 beach balls on the end of the foam so it didn't spread all the way to the front also found the original owners keys lol everything weighed 47 lbs


Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats

Brian, and difference in way the boat rides after the foam removal? 


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

Just updating this thread....

I pulled the carpet and notice the access hole was already cut and as expected the bow was full of foam. For better or for worse I removed the foam. Took about 4 hours and I used a spade shovel, crowbar, sawzall, and a cats paw. Ended up filling 5 black trash bags of foam. It's slow going as you get started but eventually you get bigger chunks as you chip away.



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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

I looked into this myself. I'll share what a powder coat guy told me. He said...if you run them wet you can get away with powder coating. Which his cost would have been $180 for both. If you run them dry they would have to be ceramic Coated which was approx a little less than double the cost (I think). BUT...he recommends having the chrome chemically removed which at "his costs" was about $200.  Additionally neither of the coatings looked nothing like chrome even tho they were called "chrome". This is just information one guy told me, not sure if it helps. I might be looking into rechroming mine at some point.


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

Can't go wrong at shoor. Or even IMS in Irvine they usually have a nice scrap bin in the back.


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.

Thnx for the foot work GT. I think I'll look into using your first option. Bending the aluminum won't be an issue with my neighbors brake. I'll order a couple and see what I come up with.


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Last night....I was drunk for a week.