Now I see where you are headed. By odd-ball combination I was thinking a HEMI like me (lake boat) or my ultimate want, a BOSS Nine. Kaase can make big power out of this combination. I did notice the injector in the background of the picture you posted. Your injected alcohol 598 sounds like a sweet combination.

Bob

I don't know what your engine combination is, but I would look to replace your PTO adapter that is bolted to your flywheel with an adapter for either a 1310 or 1350 U Joint. Looking at what you have it looks like a you will need a 1310 PTO adapter. There are a number of companies that should be able to help you out. Look to spend somewhere between $150 and $175 for the upgrade. This was the first company I looked up.

https://jetpumpparts.com/drivelines_-_driveshafts/pto_adapters/

Bob

Remove the fuel line and verify that you indeed have fuel to the carb. Next check that the float is set correctly and also check the that the needle and seat are not stuck in the closed position.

Bob

Thanks Dan'l.

That's the information I was looking for. I use the Bassett control T and the cooling water is off at idle. The only time my cooling water hasn't been off was the day I had the spring break but I don't think the duration on the cam I was using is that high. Engine went together back in the 80's. May talk to Bullet to calm it down a bit. I am thinking the concern about reversion at idle when you don't have the velocity in the pipes, not at 3-5000 RPM's.

Bob

Hi Joe,

When I bought my headers, I thought about having them coated on the inside but it sounded like it was a no no so I let the thought go. Actually my headers are in fairly good shape, bluing to the first bend and a little past but that is it. I do have some slight rust up where the pipes merge into the collector. I am thinking this was helped along by the light chrome plating in those areas.

For as old as the headers are, 35+ years , they are in good shape as after I would use the boat, I would spray them down with WD40, put sleeves on, and then put the cover on the boat until I would use it again. When it was time to use the boat, it was Windex and newspaper to clean the WD40 off.

As for my question about keeping the chrome, "chrome", it was more rhetorical, It is something that has rattled in my head for a real long time. As I am sitting here, temps in the teens, and recovering from hip replacement, I had nothing better to do. It just botheres me watching all of the videos that Brad has posted over the years, all the boats where the headers were "chrome" from the flange to the end of the collector.

As this is my thread, I do owe you some pictures of the HEMI, but I am to embarrassed to show pictures. Out if stupidity I trashed the boat. Couple years back as my cover was going away, starting to leak, I covered it for winter with loose fitting blue shrink wrap. When summer came around, warm/hot weather, I left the plastic over the boat with no way to breath. Well, I had a little water sitting in the bilge which caused lots of humidity, which killed the chrome valve covers, oxidized the alternator,and carb base plates along with a lot of the little stuff linkage wise around the carbs.

The lack of breathing of the plastic wrap, along with my old cover and heat blistered the gel coat from the tip of the bow back about 3 feet right thru my orange fade. All in all it messed up all 8 colors of my gel. To top this, a few years further back, my neighbors wild raccoons got into the boat over winter and trashed the seats and got into the ghost fart peanut flotation bags under the bow. What a mess. Not sure what I am going to do about the gel. I am thinking of calling Scott Kronowski in Havasu about spraying the gel and then bringing it back to Wisconsin to do the cut and buff. Am thinking about sending the seat covers out to Cal to have them remade. Can't seem to find anyone around here. Met Kronowski here years ago before he moved. I do have one place in Chicago that might be able to do the gel work. Had talked to then previous about about fixing a crack in one of my red colors. Any ideas for gel repair out your area? Don't really trust anyone out this way to redo the fades. I do like to drive,

As another side note, I have a question down in the engine folder that you might take a look at.

This is going to be a long expensive rebuild.

Thanks,

Bob

That's my story and I am sticking to it.

I think I have found my cam, still need to talk to Bullet on its specifics. What has me bothered a bit is the duration is 259 and 265 I/E. Is this getting  to close to the magic number of 275 degrees to cause the engine to start sucking water back into the chambers from the water injected headers? I don't need to hydraulic the engine.

Bob

If all else fails and you have access to compressor and a paint gun, locate an automotive paint and body shop supply store. Have them mix up some vinyl upholstery paint/dye and paint the seats, see of they can add a UV protector in the paint. If they can't have them mix a mat or semi gloss clear with the protectent. The should have something to match the gloss of the material. I have painted car seats in the past and it has held up very well. They should be able to set you up with everything you need to do the job.

I think I have found my new cam. I am going to have to call Bullet Cams to have them do some research as to the exact spec and then change it over to hydraulic roller lifters.. As I don't have access to the cam card, it will be a little work. I do not want to use solid rollers, don't want to be 10 or 15 miles out and then have to find a ride/tow back.

Here is what I know of the cam:
.625 / .617 Lift   1.6 / 1.55 Rocker Ratio    Doesn't look like it will be real hard on the springs
259 / .263 Duration      Don't know if this was advertised or at .050 Might be a bit to much for a lake boat
114 Lobe Separation

761 HP at 5700
802 Torque at 4600

This was a 535 CU IN ,10.79 compression Hemi. I am running 500 inches Going to have to look at my compression, original compression about 13 to 1, now block has about .100 more deck height and uncut heads with way to big of ports..

If I can get this figured out, I think this might work great with a A impeller.



Bob

You can't over drive the cylinder. The cylinders are basically designed to run full open or full closed, hundreds of thousands of cycles. Remember, they are full of fluid which keeps it lubed and also acts as a shock absorber when it reaches the end of the stroke. As you raise the nozzle you will feel an increase in speed. Once you feel the increase stop you will know that you are there. The actual run time from full down to full up is only maybe 3-4 seconds. I worst comes to worst, have someone in the boat with you and time the full up cycle. You can always look over your shoulder and see where your stream is.

Personally I don't think it is worth it. Before you spend the money, run the boat. Get it up to about 30-40 mph and hit your switch. As the nozzle trims out you will feel the boat accelerate as the hull frees up. Once you have gone past that point as with my boat, it may start to porpoise a little or start to slow down again. Run the nozzle down a little to get you up in plane quickly and then just start to add up to it, you will know when it is there. It's cool (?) to run with the nozzle up but it doesn't really do anything.

Bob

If your pump is in good condition, you might try CP Performance, they have a process to convert your 12C bowl to a 12G bowl for about the price of a G bowl. Saw this on another web site. If your current pump is in good condition and working good you might go this route, Give them a call, it wouldn't hurt.

Bob

Johnny Utah

Boat and interior looks great. Whats nice is there is just enough color to make it pop, not go over board. I will have to spend some time looking over your interior.

Matt:

Glad to hear that your interior was done recently. I had heard that there were some issues right after the spllt. Prior to the split, Martinez Brothers were probably the most recommended guys to go to. Like the blue powdered pump.

I'm going to have to make some calls and see about getting something going this fall.

Thanks,

Bob

Matt and Johnny Utah,

Thanks for your replies.

Matt, your interior does look good. Was it Eddie that did your seats? When did you have it done? What was your turn around time? My thought would be to send my stuff out there in the late fall, early winter during the slow season so it doesn't get lost in the spring/summer rush. I know that they did good work prior to the split

I will give Rene a call and see if he can use my seat covers as patterns so I can keep the shipping cost down.

I need to check with FastenAll to see what shipping rates are. I have heard of guys shipping race engines for like $45.00

Below are what is left of my seats after Rocky Raccoons got done.

Bob