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Messages - bluthndr

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WarZone / Re: 455 Olds Refresh
« on: February 04, 2024, 06:31:59 PM »
Any news?

Jet Pumps / How interchangeable are Berkeley jet drive parts (bowls)?
« on: August 23, 2023, 09:23:26 AM »
I have a 12JC with diverter and want to go to a split bowl.  Found a dominator bowl for sale locally.  Can I just bolt on the dominator bowl and a droop snoot and put my JC nozzle and diverter on it?  What else is there to it?

Jet Pumps / How do I determine what Berkeley intake I have?
« on: August 23, 2023, 09:20:28 AM »
So in prep for getting a shoe and ride plate, I see other (used) intakes for sale.  I have a Berkeley 12JC in my Hallett, and I see different part numbers or "12 degree" in descriptions of one for sale.  How do I determine what mine is and what interchanges?  Thinking of buying one already machined with a shoe/plate or getting a "spare" to send out instead of having my boat in 1000 pieces while I wait...

Jet Pumps / Re: Hydraulic Place Diverter Issues
« on: February 04, 2023, 05:11:06 AM »
Fixed - bad/loose contact terminal at the switch.

Jet Pumps / Jet drive basics/mods tutorial - help ?s
« on: February 04, 2023, 05:09:08 AM »
I get most of the basics here.  Impeller sizes/cuts, blueprinted drives, place diverted, etc, but I can?t find much info on other things.  I see all these different setups but little on no info on the what/why of it.   So I have all these questions about ?what is a _______?  What does it do? And when would I want one??

Droop snoots
Ride plates

And I?m sure there are several others I?m missing.  I?ve seen them but at what point do you want one?  And for what purpose?

Jet Pumps / Why do guys move the jet drive back?
« on: January 15, 2023, 06:30:36 PM »
I have noticed several guys redoing or building boats (Finnegan included) that have the jet drive (and intake/shoe) moved quite a bit rearward.  The "cleanout" being outside the boat, rather than inside like mine - which I'm sure is stock.  At one point last fall I was looking at buying a 14-71 blower motor for my boat, but after talking to some experts - or at least guys that know more than me - thewy said I'd need to move the whole jet drive back.  That's more than I want to do, but I wanted to ask why.  There don't seem to be much in the way of tech on such things - even on youtube or here.  What gives?

I have pretty much the same setup (Olds 455, Hardin/cpp pressure relief/bypass at the jet, wet OT headers, 4 port Hardin thermostat) but no gate valves.  Water pressure in the manifold is 5-10psi WOT.  Water feeds the headers through a Hardin tee with a pressure relief that comes off the rear of the manifold.  If anything the headers get a little too much water off idle all the time, so I plan to add a gate valve before the tee.  Other than that it works perfect.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: August 22, 2022, 09:20:09 AM »
Also, with the 140 bypass thermostat setup it stays right at 155 all the time.  Water comes off the back of the intake manifold into the headers through a cp performance tee/check valve.  Water pressure in the block is 5-10 psi depending on rpm.  It has a pressure relief valve that dumps through the transom at over 15.  13" vacuum at 2500rpm cruise on plane.  0" at WOT which I take to mean the 750 is plenty of carb.  Nice to finally enjoy it.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: August 22, 2022, 08:04:32 AM »
Ran it this weekend finally.  4700 rpm is about all it's got, but it's reasonably fast.  Haven't gpsed it yet, but my buddy has a 50ish mph outboard boat and we just walked away from it.

For those following or with something similar, it's a .030 over 455 with aluminum heads, torker, and a 750 double pumper.  Roughly 12* initial timing, 36-38 overall, 76 primary jets, 86 secondary, 4.5 power valve.  Big cam of unknown specs, idles about 1200-1300 rpm in the water.  I think an A impeller but don't really know for sure.

Set it about 12-1300, but had to put a lot more in it on the water (3-4 full turns).  Lowest I can get it in the water is about 1200, and that's with a nice lope and over 15" of vacuum.

I think I?m about 1200ish, (my tach stopped working a long time ago).
Like you said it?s different in the water, under load. Your going to have to set it a bit higher, then launch and do it on the water after it warms up a bit.

Single or dual carb?

Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app

Single carb

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Where do I want idle rpm on trailer?
« on: July 30, 2022, 03:01:56 PM »
Looking for suggestions on where I should set idle on trailer.  1200ish?  Idles awesome on trailer about 900 rpm but, of course, in the water with the impeller lol ad won't stay running, and a moving, loaded boat is not ideal for idle tuning...

Hulls / Re: Which is better?
« on: July 21, 2022, 08:25:45 AM »
Looks great man.  I have a Hallett.  Friend has a Rayson.  Both solid.  I like the look of my Hallett better, but your Rayson looks better than his.  Must be different designs?

Bought mine last summer to fix minor things and sell, but in the meantime ended up moving to a lake.  Gauges, fuel tanks, new wiring, new plumbing, and top half of the engine later I'm ready to have some fun with it.

Hulls / Fastest hull for 18-20' lake boat
« on: July 21, 2022, 08:19:24 AM »
What are the fastest hulls (non drag race) that you could use regularly and still be the fastest guy on the lake?  Sanger?  Rogers? Hondo? Daytona?  Others??

Jet Pumps / How to tell what impeller (Berkeley)
« on: July 12, 2022, 08:05:46 AM »
Can you tell what impeller you have without pulling the pump apart?  From the tag I guess it?s an A? (See pic).  I pulled the (inspection?) cover off and it looks like it?s in good shape, but is there a letter cast or stamped into it somewhere?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: July 09, 2022, 11:46:20 AM »
Progress...  Time for a trip to the sand bar. 

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: July 08, 2022, 03:52:58 AM »
So - maybe everyone has seen this, and knows what the weight difference is between stock cast, and aluminum heads on an Oldsmobile 455.  After searching I couldn?t find an answer, so I did it myself.  The aluminum heads save about 25 lbs each.  The aluminum heads were weighed with 7/16 studs and guide plates, the cast iron ones without. 

These were ?G? castings but it doesn?t really matter.  I?ve spent more than a little time with ?stock? olds stuff, and despite the internet lore about C castings being good, and other related fairy tales, they are all basically the same - at least as far as the flow bench and scale are concerned.  I will say the J heads flow the worst, but only by a little.  They all suck.  For comparison?s sake, I was doing a lot of playing around on the flow bench at the time.  A 4.8L LS head flowed quite a bit more, and the turbulence in the Olds head was so bad it sounded like the air was being dismembered as it went through the port, as opposed to nice smooth flow.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: July 07, 2022, 08:28:34 PM »
Thanks man.  I'll revisit the gate valve and thermostat.  It?s got the double stack housing (bypass to the top after the water pump inlets, braided (see pic) goes to the back discharge does that make a difference?  As I understand it, it discharges cold water all the time, until it discharges (some?)  hot water once the thermostat opens?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: July 07, 2022, 04:47:10 PM »
Plumbing is currently pump - pressure bypass - tee - ?water pump? - thermostat housing - out.  Headers are cooled from the water crossover in the front of the manifold then runs to a Hardin/cp tee valve with new spring and ball in it, but I?m going to move it to the back of the manifold and add a pressure gauge to the front so I can see what?s going on.

***when I pulled the heads I found 3 of the ?steam holes? (upper coolant passages from deck to head) partially plugged, and a 4th one (rear most passenger side) completely plugged and I had to ?rod it out? with a small rat tail file to open it back up.  Hopefully that?s my cooling problem solved. ***

Haven?t run it long enough to have a feel for ?normal? operating temp.  Had no thermostat in it before, put a marine 140 in it to try and get some consistent #s from it but haven?t run it in the lake with it yet.

Vac sec carb had 72 primary, 4.5 power valve, and the lightest spring I could get in it.  Double pumper still feels snappier but that could be ignition timing?  For now I?m retiring the 4160.

Vacuum adv is disconnected.  Bought a block-off for it, but it was for clockwise normal HEI.  Olds is CCW, so I await my ups man again?

New push rods are oil restricted.  That?s the best I have for now - and running 5w-30 so more oil runs back to the pan.  If I was pulling the short block I?d put the restrictors in above the mains, and rering and possibly re-piston it, and put on a 10qt pan.  I don?t really want to get into that this summer, hence the delay on doing the cam.  Plus when I do, I want to plate the stringers with aluminum and just clean up the mounting situation.

On the impeller - is there a way to tell?  Without pulling apart the jet drive?  I was told most Olds boats came with "A" impellers?  My plan is to run/tune it until it wants to go above 5000 rpm (msd 6al chipped at 5200) and then add the loader, and if that won't pull it down enough look at a different (AA?) impeller.  Good plan or no?

I have a thing for olds engines (obviously), but as far as building a short block goes I?m mixed.  I know the limitations,  and if I ever want to go fast it?s BBC or turbo LS realistically, so why spend on the olds?  On the other hand, it's a heavy boat, and probably never going to be incredibly lake-beatingly fast vs a Hondo or Daytona or Rogers or similar...  But I have a soft spot for rocket motors, so that makes it cool.

Still cool and fun though.  Haha

On mine I have the bilge hardwired to the battery.  Everything else runs to a main battery disconnect.  From the disconnect, power runs to the starter (main) terminal (2 gauge) and alternator 8 gauge) and switch panel up front (10 gauge).

Switch panel has main "on" that provides power (daisy chained) to other circuits (start, IGN, nav/gauge lights, place diverter, fuel pump, bilge manual, etc.). Circuits are fused after the individual switches.  Grounds are just a simple terminal block up front with 10 ga running back to the battery.  At the back everything is grounded to the block, with a 2 ga cable running from B- to the bell housing. 

What flusher said is all great stuff.

In your case I'd look real hard at the surface finish and how flat those surfaces are. 

Yeah, detonation is a thing, but I think you'd have other signs on the pistons and plugs.  Maybe detonation can theoretically ruin a head gasket, but I've never seen it in real life.  I have, however, seen too much pressure in the water jacket take them out.

Jet Pumps / Fastest Olds powered jet boat
« on: July 06, 2022, 08:36:12 PM »
What/who was the fastest Olds powered jet boat that anyone knows of here?  What was their setup?

I assume an AA impeller or steeper because lots of torque And not lots of rpm...

Just curious

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds 455 thread/autopsy/tune-up
« on: July 06, 2022, 08:07:17 PM »
So I'm neck deep into my first jet boat project and can't find any recent threads on stuff, and I have a fair amount of Olds experience (built several big blocks over a 10 year period, flowed lots of heads on a flow bench, daily drove a Streep/strip 455 engine swapped car for several years, am a full time mechanic and own a shop, etc.) so I thought I'd share:

Not sure where to start.  Bought the boat a year ago from a non mevhanicalguy wjod pumped the engine full of 15 qts of water.  Local Hot Boat guy checked out the boat/pump half and gave it the thumbs up.  Always wanted one and the deal was right so I took it.  Emptied things out and a few days, a coil, some wiring, and a carb rebuild later I had it dryed out and running in my shop.

Leaking freeze plugs replaced, replumbed EVERYTHING (the reason it was full of water - no pressure relief and headers plumbed ahead of engine with no pressure relief).  New control cables (not tryna die or run aground).  Rewired everything (sketchy wiring is a pet peave), put it in the lake.

Ran pretty decent 4200 rpm, sounded ok, wouldn't idle, 45+ year old gauges... 

New gauges, new switches, new vac sec carb it didn't seem to run any better, but at least I can see some info on the gauges.  Now we're getting somewhere. 

Runs good for about 2 minutes and dies.  Let sit for a minute, repeat.

15 fuel filters later (hey it's old - who knows what was in the tanks right?) And I realize it's the tanks coming part on the inside (or at least the liner) and plugging things up.  Let it sit a minute or two, sediment falls to the bottom of the filter, yay, 2 more minutes of run time!  New aluminum fuel tanks to the rescue.

Now it occasionally gets hot... Hmmm. Runs for a few minutes at normal temp - then gets over 220 as it shuts down...  (Am I sure it's a fuel problem?  Maybe it's a hot ignition module?). I'm getting steam out the headers the whole time...

Double pumper carb with fuel pressure gauge, new recurved distributor, new (good) coil, new ignition module, ignition timing set to 12* initial, 34* @2800.  Starts and runs great,. REALLY responsive, kind of excited.  Still can't get it to idle quite right and it's missing worse.

Let's see what the vacuum gauge says about idle mixture...  Uh-oh.  Needle bounces.  That's bad...  Valve covers off - 3 stuck exhaust valves and corresponding bent push rods.  Dammit.  Not sure if it was me or the previous owners, but here we are.

How does a gear-head shop owner living his childhood jet boat dream fix bent valves?  Aluminum cylinder heads.  Modern airflow technology is great stuff... 

That's where I am now.  Lots of pictures along the way.  Feel free to ask questions. 

Side note - I know this thing won't ever be fast because Olds, but I'm trying to get it together to be the lake hero for a few weeks, while my buddy with a 548 v-drive fixes his broken rocker arm and guide plate.  Rocket power ftw.

Still having some issues with the place diverter, have a new cam but not for now, then I have a loader to try and see where I can get...

New to jet boats.  Always wanted one.  Working my way through a number of things on my (new to me) 75 Hallett.  Biggest problem turns out to be (I'm assuming) the lining of the tanks coming apart, and has now plugged 11 fuel filters...

So I go looking for and find things about fiberglass tanks, which I never would have guessed was a thing.  So they need to be replaced...?  I found Speedway tanks 8x33 or so that I could use...  What all is involved in doing this?  Tutorial anywhere? I'd rate my mechanical aptitude as high - I own an auto repair shop and we make/fab parts and tools on the regular...



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