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Topics - sandeggo

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Boats For Sale / 1983 Targa (19' Spectra)
« on: February 05, 2017, 03:50:46 PM »
I got a bigger boat so this one has got to go.
Cleaning all the toys and stuff out of it this weekend.
It's a 1983 original gel, original upholstery. It's pretty good for its age. Has a Berkeley pump and a 454.030" over.
 I have put swim steps, a hydraulic diverter, foot throttle, 4"ss slash cut tips, and Bimini on it. Carb fully rebuilt by CandJ last season and automatic bilge pump installed..
Otherwise it's all original. It has 467 total hours on the boat, way less on the motor. It's on a tandem axle trailer that I put a new hitch and redid the v block on. The boat is turn key and runs about 65+/-. It rides and handles very well. Sits low in the water and gets comments every time we are out. Everyone loves the gel coated hatch. I am technically the 2nd registered owner, 3rd owner of the boat. I have a folder with every single invoice and piece of paper this boat has ever had. 
$8000.00 obo. Boat is in Vista, Ca. 760-522-3692

This could be your family this summer, what are you waiting for.

Got it out of the garage and got it washed up.

The custom cover is old so I used a pep boys cover over the top to keep the UV from eating it up.

Fabrication / swim step brackets
« on: May 28, 2014, 12:10:15 PM »
1" tube 304 SS
1" x 1/8" flat bar 304SS
Angled at 16* to have the step sit level when mounted on the transom
Built a quick and dirty jig to make fitup easy

Fabrication / sand spike anchor
« on: May 20, 2014, 05:48:31 PM »
threw a couple sand spikes together today.
Hole sawed 4 2" circles out of 1/4" plate
Opened the hole up to fit the round bar.
Welded a bead around the top of the round bar to keep the 1.5" tube handle from coming off.
Welded all the pieces together
did a quick shitty paint job on them
I did these with super loose tolerances. About 10 years ago I made one completely out of stainless and capped the top. It didn't work for shit cause the tolerances were too tight

WTB / Driveline
« on: April 16, 2013, 07:17:14 PM »
I need a driveline about 10-12" long

WTB / Hydraulic diverter pump(working or not)
« on: May 15, 2012, 05:10:43 PM »
I need a hydraulic pump working or not. I'm only looking for a pump with bad solenoids not a fried motor. I got a source for solenoids so if I can cobble something together that would be awesome.

Looking for a coiled cord switch too.

Project Boats For Sale / 1969 Schiada jet
« on: April 10, 2012, 06:54:26 AM »
Hull and trailer. Now that I got a different boat I need this thing gone. I'd like to get around $1800 but I'm open to offers. This would be a great starter boat or nostalgic cruiser. Put a motor in and go. 12jA-b Pump with an A/B impeller has 2 seasons on it and never sucked a rock. Manual diverter, shoe and rideplate, new aluminum gas tanks, it's all there. It's in big river right now. Kevin 760-522-3692 text or call, if you call I might not get it right away as I'm at the river. I want someone to run this boat, not someone that's gonna cut it up and sell parts on eBay.

Random Boat Parts For Sale / *Wanted* Hydraulic Diverter Control
« on: March 26, 2012, 04:58:47 PM »
The new boat I'm getting is a tunnel so I am looking for a hydraulic controller for a diverter. anyone got one laying around?

Fabrication / Making your own motor mounts
« on: February 04, 2012, 08:10:43 AM »
Supplies: 3/8" aluminum plate and WD-40, sharpie pens.
Tools: measuring devices, jigsaw with course wood blades, router(the bigger the better), clamps, drill press, carbide burrs, files. Or a mill.
Layout the cuts.
Cut out the pieces, I used all woodworking tools with no problems at all. For the long straight cuts I used a 12" miter saw. Use wd40 to lube the blades. To square up the jigsaw cuts I put a carbide burr in a drill press and used my hands as a XY table. Then I used the router to get fancy. the rougher blades work better in the jigsaw because the aluminum is soft and gums up the fine metal blades.

Test fit

Front plate

Used a jigsaw to rough cut, then a rough burr to smooth out the curves, then a smooth burr to square all in the drill press.
Router really set it off

Let's do a fancy speed hole


Mounted plumbing holes tapped to 1/2" npt from harbor freight.

Fabrication / Fabricating rail kit angled blocks
« on: January 30, 2012, 01:13:03 PM »
3/8"  angle
1/4" plate
Bevel the 3/8" to aid in penetration and so there's weld still in the joint when sanded smooth
Weld it up

Boat Racing / equipment recommendations??
« on: May 23, 2011, 07:12:43 AM »
What are you guys using for:
GPS, will a garmin etrex work?
Kill switch?

also what are the rules as far as driving out there. obviously theres a parade lap, then I see some guys raising their hand occasionally. Is that for motor trouble or what???  I admit I am new, just trying to learn this stuff so I dont do something stupid out there.

Boat Racing / Nostalgia jet ???
« on: April 22, 2011, 09:12:49 AM »
Looking for some info on the class.
What MPH are actually being ran?
last weekend the endurance ran with the NJ, what does that do to points?
I don't want to bring a 70 MPH boat to a 80 MPH race.
Havent tested it yet but definately mowing it over

Random Boat Parts For Sale / Gauges
« on: April 10, 2011, 07:19:34 PM »
I have a auto meter marine fuel level stainless lookin face with chrome bezel brand new never used..25$

A few old Stewart Warner mechanical gauges, all work fine. 30$ for all
Ammeter, oil press, water temp.
One black anno angle bezel for 2-1/8" gauges, 5$??
Won't use this stuff so buy it.

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / SBC part out....everything must go
« on: December 22, 2010, 08:01:42 AM »
    *Dont see the price you want, make an offer*
* Edelbrock logs, could be polished easy but they are ceramic painted,
      no leaks.................................. ........... ...$180
* SBC camel hump heads casting# 3917291. $200
* Tunnel ram ....................................... ......$150
* High torque mini starter............................SOLD
* SBC cast mounting plate front....................$50
* Rear bell housing mount............................$120
* Aluminum single V pulley...........................$20
* Msd box 6A and Blaster 2 coil.....................$100
* Delco distributor with pertronix module .......$85
      pertonix, cap, rotor, only used 1 season
* short block 2 bolt main, needs rebuild..........$200
*single wire chrome alternator.......................SOLD

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / SBC complete motor.
« on: November 15, 2010, 12:20:46 PM »

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Olds Overtransom headers $150
« on: November 09, 2010, 05:00:30 PM »
hooker super competition headers bought these for a smallblock chevy, well they aren't. water lines and mufflers included.
decent shape, no dings or cracks, just a little rust. get em coated and your have nice headers for cheap.

V-Drives / fun ride yesterday
« on: August 02, 2010, 09:01:17 PM »
sunday afternoon, rode in this

i guess the ear to ear grin on my face in the passenger seat spells it all out
heres part of it. 8400 rpms.

The No Wake Zone / So I ran a bigblock(video)
« on: July 25, 2010, 11:54:37 PM »
Had a little fun running the boat Saturday. The weather was cool so the boat was running pretty good, still can't give it fullthrottle.

i am putting my Fugly headers on thursday night when i get to the river. would this work, pump-T-block, thermo house- 2 overboard dumps, then use a valve on this fitting to put water to the basset valve to the headers?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / tuning questions.
« on: June 14, 2010, 09:38:19 AM »
ok so the second trip with my tunnel ram is done.
the carbs are pretty dialed, idles clean and fires right up. no bogs off the line, not a single backfire.
Mmorial i put new plugs in and it fired right up and ran great all over. sounded more throaty and cammy.
plugs are autolites (all they had in parker), gapped at .045.
on Memorial when I'd stab it while cruising, it would bog a little and then if i stayed in it, it would clean up, burn it, and GO!
now when i was running saturday, starting got a little harder (had to use the gas pedal) and when i try to run full pedal, it bogs and loses about 400 rpm. never cleans it up.
I didn't pull a plug but i guarantee at least one is fouled. it just doesn't have the same power that it initially had. up to 3/4 pedal is great. I was thinking about changing the cams on the carbs and opening the gaps a little more. what are your opinions.
the carbs have 6.5 power valves, but i cant remember the jet sizes. i want to say 76?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Valve adjustment
« on: June 05, 2010, 10:15:52 AM »
I'm not sure what cam is in my smallblock, it's definitle not stock. With that being said would it be better to adjust the valves while the motor is running?

Random Boat Parts For Sale / Need header parts
« on: May 21, 2010, 07:24:45 PM »
here i go at the last minute throwin new parts into the mix. Im getting headers tonight but im lookin for transom blockoffs and a t valve.

Interior / steering wheel
« on: May 13, 2010, 06:57:56 AM »
does anyone know of anyways to get a steering wheel shiny again? its really hard to find a brown metalflake one and i want it to look a little better. its not cracked or anything, just a flat finish kinda

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / 650 marine holley. Sbc performer
« on: April 11, 2010, 08:04:25 AM »
Give you guys first crack at it. Working condition, pulled off my motor yesterday, holley 650 spreadbore vac. seconday, double feed carb. You could probably bolt it on and go, but the gaskets on the carb are just starting to get damp, so it would eventually need a gasket kit. It's a nice carb. I'd like to get 100 for it, I just got it last season from olguy on PB. List number R84024.
Then I have a ugly edelbrock performer that has some oxidation on it and would need some elbow grease, how's 40$?

I need a new distributor

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / To tunnel ram, or not to tunnel ram
« on: March 31, 2010, 02:31:21 PM »
I plan on eventually getting new heads and cam for my smallblock 355. I keep reading on car sites that tunnelrams love rpms. Then I keep reading they work well in jets because we rarely see low rpms. I'll be a first to admit I love how they look. Reminds me of all the jets I'd see as a kid on the river. I was thinking about getting the tr1yx edelbrock with a couple 450 holleys. Am I barkin up the wrong tree? I don't want to constantly be fiddling with carbs if I don't have to. Can they be setup reliably? If you remember from big river last fathers day, I mainly drive with my foot it it. Class is in session and I'm listening

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / electrical connectors
« on: March 04, 2010, 03:55:09 PM »
found good terminals and butt connectors at harbor freight of all places. the insulation is the shrink wrap kind. theyre tinned and have glue in them. $2.49 for a box of ten

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