Looking for a Holley Ford 460 Fuel pump with dump valve. Holley quit making this particular one for enclosed hatches. Model 712-460-11/13. Looks like attached except for ford 460.

- New/newish aluminum AA impeller
- Inducer
- Drive shaft with inducer adapter (I will probably just buy new)
- Bowl bearing and seal install tool
- Impeller puller tool
- If you have new bowl seals/bushings/thrust bearing/drive shaft sleeve/shouldered wear ring I will take those but probably just easier for me to buy new direct.

I will only pay via paypal (no friends and family). I am located on east coast (NC).

Any chance a bass boat (nitro z-7 18' 8" boat) trailer (made by tracker marine) would fit a 18ft jet boat?

Profile of jet boat

https://sacramentoboatrepair.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/keaton-boat-1024x683.jpg

Profile of bass boat
https://www.topspeed.com/boats/nitro/2015-nitro-z-7-ar166590.html

Trailer:

First up, thank you everyone for your help so far, I really appreciate it.

Boat: 1984 Jack Keaton 18-J
Engine: Ford Hardin Marine 460 (7.5L)
Pump: Berkeley 12JE with place diverter

Backstory:
My father-in-law purchased this boat new in 1984 while living out in California. He has had it ever since for rec skiing/boating purposes. He is now retiring to FL coast and the boat is not a salt-water boat. He has graciously given the boat to the my brother-in-law and me. When I received the boat (2020) it had 290 hours total. My father-in-law indicated the engine was rebuilt about ~50hrs ago (unknown specs of internals/changes/etc though) as one year he forgot to winterize and ice caused internal damage. After the rebuilt, he used it for a year or so and then the boat sat for 7-8 years as the kids went off to college.

Today:
Thus here we are today where I am trying to get the boat back into run-able shape to enjoy once again as my wife and her siblings once did. I have never worked with a large carb before, distributors/timing, any big block engine, or any real jet pump besides jet-skis. There isn't that much data on these small batch boats in terms of diagrams/etc but from reading on here it seems most of the boats of this era were relatively the same which has helped a lot. The name of the game in terms of trying to get this boat back operationally reliable has been see if anything is salvage/rebuild able. Unfortunately almost everything so far has been replace with new (which can be hard to find replacement marine rated parts for such old engines/boat) which I guess is given on something almost 40 years old...


Engine:
Ford 460, I have no idea what was replaced during the rebuild, cam size, etc. For all intents and purposes I am assuming stock hardin marine 460 rated at 320hp at 4600 rpm (8.35:1 compression). The engine is in a enclosed engine bay with through transom exhaust, so no large blowers/open air headers/etc are in the future. This is mostly just a rec ski boat. Intake is a edlebrock dual-plane (not sure if factory or not), exhaust is factory.

Carb:
I went with a Quick-fuel M-600 CFM (4160 Holley basically with vacuum secondaries). When I received the boat it had a Holley 670 4150 street avenger carb. You can guess how well they lasted in the elements and from sitting. I at first was thinking I would just rebuild it and add some J-Tubes but the metering blocks were cracked and the body had internal cracks. Some might argue the 600 CFM is a little small but I plan on keeping the 460 mostly stock and at only 80% efficiency at 5000 rpm which most calculators suggest ~570CFM, 600CFM seemed fine. I am still learning all the tuning dynamics, luckily the quick fuel make is a little bit easier than stock holleys.

Ignition:
It had the original distributor on it which had a pertronix ignitor on it that replaced points at some point but I realized later the shaft, bushings, springs (unknown specs) were worn and decided to just buy a new one. I went with a pertronix 3 distributor which also a rev limiter to help with any over-reving if air-borne. Currently running 12 degree at idle (~950 RPM) and (12+20) mechanical advance only all in 32 degrees at 3000 rpm. I may try to push this to 34 degrees. Surprisingly the manual says to run 40 degrees full advance at 4000rpm but that was during leaded gasoline days and I am afraid gasoline these days isn't up to same standards and would ping at that much advance. I replaced plugs and wires of course, gapped them to .045", factory spec is .035" but distributor says I could gap them +.010" higher. Seems to be running fine.

Fuel Delivery: I was able to run the boat fine on a water hose on the trailer, took the boat out for its first maiden voyage in 7 years, boat ran like crap. Come to realize the factory molded body in fiber glass tank was leaking and had a ton of crude/water. Luckily I put a on a new fuel-water separator and some in-line filters which minimize crud to the new carb...I did end up taking new carb apart to clean it out and replace some gaskets as safe measure. I ended up having my father-in-law friend custom fab a new aluminum 27 gallon fuel tank (original was 30 gallon). Once I installed the new aluminum tank (I used composite anchor ports to hold it in place rather than fiberglassing it back in), replaced fuel lines (3/8 A-1), new fuel gauge/sending unit, filters. Still running original carter mechanical pump, seems alright maybe a tad weak. Currently looking to find a replacement. At idle PSI is not steady but bounces between 3-5PSI, at rev, PSI reads about ~5.7 PSI.

Pump:
I am still running the original A impeller pump 12JE, I have no idea if it has been rebuilt or any service work besides fluids. I replaced the bowl fluid and some of the bowl seals but I haven't dug deeper into the pump. The impeller seemed to look fine with no major gouges or anything. I did install a new place diverter with hydraulic controls and a large rudder for low speed maneuverability and to assist with skiers who are more likely to pull the back end around without one. I modified the place diverter hydraulic controls to use two relays instead of their aftermarket diode kit which seems allows me to move the pump quick with up/down steering wheel mounted control.


I have been able to hit 5000rpm which seems a little high for a stock engine (I say this because horsepower chart for A impeller at 5000 rpms is like ~370hp) but I don't notice any cavitation. I was able to hit 65mph (GPS) at 5000rpm (I verified original tach is accurate with a digital backup tach also). I didn't really expect to hit 5000rpm so maybe engine isn't stock or pump tolerances are slightly loose.

Body: Replaced steering, throttle, and bucket cable. New steering wheel, new rear-view mirror. The floor was rotted and foam was water logged. I ended up having a local shop rip out the main floor section, that stringer section and floor replaced with composite and re-foamed. Cutting out the molded in fiberglass tank I did myself and a even a little bit of fiberglass work attaching composite anchor points for the new fuel tank. I was surprised to find the molded in fiberglass tank was literally part of the body, not extra liner or anything...Overall the paint is original and okay shape (lots of heat/spider cracks but she looks pretty good from 10 feet away), I may vinyl wrap the boat at some point vs cost of new gel-coat. Back bench needs re-upholstered in one spot but for now the seats are good enough. I did rip out the original carpet and plan to replace with new carpet once I get all the mechanicals in check, cosmetics last of course. This boat came with a factory pump cover that also serves as re-boarding step. The factory cover didn't fit the new diverter linkage/support so I made some minor cuts/modifications to keep it still usable. Last I re-wired almost everything, added some usb charging ports, fuse block, new bilge, blower motor, and replaced all the lights with leds.

I know I wrote a book, but just wanted to share some of my experiences as a noob and first-time doing a lot of this. Pics below

I am getting some off idle hesitation under heavy throttle which I believe is due to the accelerator pump not engaging properly.

I checked the instructions for how to adjust the spring but my accelerator arm lever has no pressure to apply upwards. The carb is new and I checked the diaphragm and saw no cracks/tears/rips.

Any suggestions. If I remove the slack between the arm and the throttle cam lever, the pump is close to bottom out already. The accelerator arm basically doesn't push back.

Edit: Figured it out, the diaphragm is missing the internal return spring from the factory...

My old starter gave out and looking to replace it with new one, possibly a PMGR (perma magnet one). I believe it needs to be counter clock wise, given the bevel on the left when the starter is facing up right.

Ford 460, starter has 2 mounting bolts, starter cone faces the bow, top mounted, 9 teeth on the starter sprocket.

Anyone link a replacement one that isn't going to break the bank?

Have bare fiberglass right now on the floor.

Trying to decide what material and attachment method to use for flooring of boat?

1. Should I put down some type of deck paint first over the fiberglass regardless of floor covering material? If so, any recommendations on deck paint?

2. Mostly lake boat, I want to minimize having to constantly remove whatever floor covering after each day on the lake but I do want it to be removable occasionally for winter-lay up or really dirty days. Ideally I would just wash out the floor interior after each lake day with a hose and not have to remove the floor material except occasionally.

3. I have been leaning towards snap in marine carpet (a little concerned about water leaking around the snaps, maybe I could use velcro or magnets with 3m tape/suction without having to permanently install snaps into the hull?) Other options I have been looking at are seadek (EVA foam) or duradek (vinyl) floor coverings?

I have a new hydraulic place diverter and was interested in possibly installing a trim gauge for it. I read through some old posts on here from 2010 about the hydraulic PD having a potentiometer that you can somehow tap into on the hydraulic pump and use a standard trim gauge vs the expensive pre-made/external kit sold on CP/berkely.

Is this possible, if so how (pictures)?

I want to install trim kit for my 12JE. I have been looking at the place diverters but all seem to have cables above the water line. This is a rec boat, not a race boat.18ft Jack Keaton.

1. Is there a diverter I can install that has cables below the water line, in addition somehow below my swim platform/jet cover? My boat has a swim platform cover that sites directly over top of the pump. I am not sure if any diverter would be compatible. You can see from the link my steering and reverse cable mounts are mounted low on the bottom rear transom. I would like to run the hydraulic trim control lines on the left rear bottom transom. Could I somehow use the existing lower right rear reverse cable hole with  place diverters?

2. Also do the diverters include a rudder or can I keep the one I have?

https://www.berkeleyjet.com/t-Berkeley-Jet-Pump-Identification-Guide.aspx

It has a swim platform cover like this:
https://sacramentoboatrepair.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/keaton-boat-jet-drive-cover-300x200.jpg