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Topics - Flusher

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Fabrication / Ford Rail Kit
« on: July 11, 2021, 05:55:19 pm »
I have been commissioned with building a Ford rail kit.  I want to design something really nice.  I have a few questions for the Ford aficionados.

The first question is in three parts:  1) What are these two (extra) bellhousing bolt holes used for?  2) Are they present in all factory and aftermarket 429/460 (385 Series) blocks?  3) Has anyone seen a marine engine mounting system that makes use of these bolt holes?

The No Wake Zone / Riverside
« on: March 10, 2020, 11:55:14 am »
Is anyone renting commercial space or running a small business in the city or county of Riverside?

My questions:  Is the city reasonable to work with?  How about the county?  What about local taxes?

I'm seriously considering relocating from the city of Colton, the taxes on electrical are out of control and the vast majority of the people in the city government definitely don't want to be part of the solution.

Basically, when/if I can get my 3-phase turned on, I will be paying over $210/mouth in meter charges.  That is just a tax that city public utilities charges, just to send me a bill.  Then there are additional utilization taxes over and above those typical if my service was with Edison.

I'm thinking that this would be money better spent in a better location.

The No Wake Zone / '89 Chevy 3500 454 Serpentine Pulleys and Brackets
« on: December 18, 2019, 08:55:03 am »
I am trying to make room to bring my CNC mill to my shop.  I'm having a hard time throwing stuff out.

I have a set of brackets, pulleys, alternator, water pump, etc.  Is that at all worth not throwing away and storing them for another 15 years?  Or scrap 'em?

While on the topic of useless junk to scrap, what about my old 3-point engine mount from my boat?


The No Wake Zone / Miller Syncrowave 250 value?
« on: September 28, 2018, 01:15:18 pm »
My neighbor's lease is not being renewed and he needs to vacate his unit by the end of September. He has the remainder of equipment from his long closed hot rod shop. His deals to sell his 1999 Miller Syncrowave 250 have fallen through and he keeps pushing me to buy it.

I really don't need a TIG right now and I would rather allocate my money towards a 4th axis for my mill.

I have asked a few friends and colleagues, who are full-time welders as to what offer I should make. Most say $1000 and the department head of Welding, at the college where I was adjunct said, "Maybe $1500! If... If... If..." Really, all my friends are inverter snobs and don't want to use anything but modern computer controlled machines.

A search of the welding forums suggest the value around the same $1000-$1500.

My neighbor is thinking closer to $5000, but that is totally unrealistic. I think that he is looking at the prices of the modern DX.

There are a few of these on eBay for $3900. Realistically, I can't spend that much. That is half way to my 4th axis or it would kill my boat racing endeavour.

I want to help my friend, preferably without offending him. I would like to have a TIG, but I don't need one. I really had my heart set on a Lincoln Squarewave 355, but this machine would do everything I wanted.

My question is, what would you do?



I'm looking for a block to use for setup, preferably one that isn't particularly useable.  Hoping to acquire one on the cheap.

Thanks in advance.



Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Dry Decking Jet Boat Engines
« on: December 21, 2016, 10:56:13 pm »
Has anyone dry decked their block and heads?

The No Wake Zone / Investing in gold
« on: November 15, 2016, 08:06:45 am »
I have a small stock portfolio consisting primarily of Intel and IBM, from the employee purchase program, and a few miscellaneous tech stocks valued il~$16.5K.  Also, since I am no longer at the college, I have the 12 years of retirement that I now need to cash out.

My questions are:  1) Is it a bad idea to roll these over into an investment in gold?  2) There are many forms to purchase gold in, with many claims of liquidity and stability.  What form/s is/are most beneficial?  3) Where/how is the best way to buy?

I need an unbiased opinion on what's real.

Thank you in advance,


Engine Mechanical / Electrical / What do you suppose went here?
« on: February 14, 2016, 01:01:02 pm »
My 2000 Volvo S40 recently started stalling.  It appears to be caused by the vacuum leak created by whatever is now missing from the end of the cylinder head, covering the end of the camshaft.

Whatever it was, there were two screws holding it on.  I don't think it was a sensor because I don't see any mystery wires anywhere.  I don't see how the screws could have fallen out, nor can I see how the item in question could have gone anywhere but to get caught in the bird nest of hoses, tubes, wires, etc. surrounding the location.

I have tried searching for "cam/head plug", "cam/head seal", "cam position sensor" with no luck.  Any ideas what this was?

Thank you,


The No Wake Zone / Really??? WTF!!!
« on: February 01, 2016, 06:42:09 pm »
I thought vehicles with trailers were restricted to the far right two lanes.  Now i am regularly seeing people towing in the car pool lane, now big rigs.  When did this law change or did it?

Boat Showcase / Joe's '91 20.5' Hallett Build
« on: December 20, 2015, 11:38:13 pm »
I don't want to be all talk and no action.  I have been wanting to start a build thread.  It seemed like 2015 was the year that everyone decided to build their boats.  I haven't been able to make as much progress as I would have liked, but I am posting up in no particular order.

Jet Pumps / Diverter Override Pedal
« on: October 24, 2015, 10:10:43 am »
I am looking into making & installing a down pedal my boat.  Does anyone have pictures or could someone describe the function of the mechanism.  I am assuming that these are pretty rare and that I will be making everything.

Am I understanding correctly that the pedal works in conjunction with the manual diverter control lever?  I am trying to avoid reinventing the wheel.

Thanks in advance,


Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Oil
« on: June 15, 2015, 04:50:00 pm »
What weight oil do you run and why?

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / 96-02 Chevy Vortec intake
« on: May 31, 2015, 08:43:20 pm »
Looking to get a factory intake, throttle body, etc. for a SBC Jeep engine swap.



I am to the point where, if I want to learn something new, I have to forget something old.

With that being said, I can no longer remember the brand or where the intake gaskets that were in my engine were sourced the last time it went together.

There are some features that I really like, but can't find in any other brand.  These features include:
1.  Steel core entirely throughout.
2.  Raised o-ring-like seal around all port openings.
3.  Port dimensions 1.688 wide by 2.500 tall.  These dimensions fit my factory 188 ports exactly, all that I can find are either too wide or too tall.  They did have provisions for the extra two intake bolts centered and above the ports.

Any help identifying these gaskets would be greatly appreciated, however I think that they might be Honest George's and no longer available.

If you have a favorite intake gasket, please post up brand, part#, etc. and why you prefer them to others, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,


The No Wake Zone / Gauging Interest in a Wood Steering Wheel
« on: March 10, 2015, 11:32:43 pm »
I am contemplating making a steering wheel.  Wood has been a foundation in maritime history since the beginning of time and I feel that my boat needs more wood accents.  I would like to make some from possibly teak or probably mahogany.  The steering wheels that we most commonly sell are the Momo or a close copy, but I am gauging if there would be any interest in a wood steering wheel, with brass fasteners, along the lines of the Grant pictured but similar in size and shape to the Momo.

Thanks in advance,


This is a quote from if anyone is interested in going, hope to see you there.

David Vizard has been asked to go along to the opening of a new speed shop: Class 'A' Performance, 23720 Clawiter Rd., Hayward, California, 94545.

David Vizard will be doing a one-hour performance seminar followed by a Q & A session going on until all questions have been answered or 7:00 PM, whichever comes first. No tickets or admission are needed and burgers and other refreshments will be provided, free of charge. It starts at 2:00 PM on Saturday, Jan 31st at the new shop of Class 'A' Performance.

These are the topics that David will cover during the Seminar
1) Airflow & port velocity - getting the best compromise
2) Holley's new 'Super Dominators' do they work as good as they look?
3) Making the best of your valve train with whatever your budget may be.
4) Five simple easily done and/or low buck power moves.

Additional information about Da Viz's visit to Class 'A' Performance can be found at

You will need to RSVP at

Hope to see some of you there,


The No Wake Zone / Aaaaaaaaahahahaha
« on: December 14, 2014, 06:28:07 pm »
My wife just learned how to use the cooking timer

Fabrication / Jeep steering suggestions
« on: December 14, 2014, 03:46:26 pm »
Looks like some of you are into some hard core rock crawlers.  I am looking for suggestions for steering on my ’96 Grand Cherokee.  It is currently sitting on a Rubicon Express long arm suspension with about 8-inches of lift at the spring.  The front axle is a high-pinion king pin Dana 60 from a SRW ’79 F-350.  The steering box is a 4-bolt YJ that has been drilled for hydraulic ram assist steering.

My question pertains to:  I originally intended to use a Currie Enterprises Correctlync heavy-duty tie rod but my ZJ has outgrown the stock style Jeep stuff and the Correctlync has been reallocated to my XJ.  I have been thinking about using a full-hydraulic steering double acting \ double rod hydraulic cylinder as the drag link with a heavy-duty tie rod, all utilizing F-350 (or larger) tie rod ends

I am looking for some hard core ideas with minimal fabrication (if possible).  I just want this project concluded as quickly and easily as possibly without skimping.

Lastly, does anybody in the 4WD world ever consider or alter Ackermann?  One thing I have noticed is, the tires scrub a lot when turning.  Wanting to convert to hi-steer arms, this would be a good time to adjust that, but I simply don’t have the time to develop this on my own in addition to design work and machining of everything.

Thanks in advance,


P.S.  Sorry I don’t have any cool pics to share right now, it is buried in the back of my shop after the move.

The No Wake Zone / Need some advice on military enlistment
« on: November 16, 2014, 09:10:12 pm »
My stepson is adamant about joining the US Military.  His plan prior to immigrating here last month was to join the US Marines in the Philippines through some sort of exchange program (sorry, I don’t remember what it is called).

The questions that I have for our Armed Services members are:

1.  There is some urgency regarding his high school graduation for the following reasons:
    a.  He turns 18 in February.
    b.  He can graduate from his high school in the Philippines by April if he goes back.
    c.  We can not get his transcripts to enroll him in high school here unless he gives notice that he is dropping out of school in the Philippines.
    d.  He has until this Friday (11/21/14) to either take an exam or drop out of school in the Philippines.
    e.  Without transcripts and because of his age, he will be required to repeat high school in adult ed. here.
    f.  If he drops out of school in the Philippines to enroll here, there is no chance of him finishing school in the Philippines.
    g.  Completing school here will likely take another two+ years.

2.  One requirement of enlistment in the US Military is a high school graduate or equivalent.  Will the Military accept a high school diploma from the Philippines if he doesn’t go through that exchange program?

3.  Another alternative is for him to get a GED.  In industry, a GED is often looked upon negatively.  Would having a GED negatively affect his military career?

4.  Would earning a high school diploma in the Philippines and a GED here be at all beneficial or just wasted time and effort?

Thank you in advance,


The No Wake Zone / Under New Management
« on: October 19, 2014, 11:24:17 am »
Affective 21:31 on 18-10-2014, new management takes control.

After two years, four months, ten days, seventeen hours, and fifty one minutes our visa application is now complete and we are finely together.

I would like to introduce my new wife Joy and step son Levi John.

I am hoping the wonderful ladies of SCJB will welcome her and help her assimilate into our boating lifestyle.


Joe & Joy

The No Wake Zone / Are you planning upgrades during the off-season?
« on: August 08, 2014, 09:54:31 pm »
Do any of your winter projects include custom machined parts?  If so, why not consider learning to machine the parts yourself?

There are currently openings available in my machine shop class at San Bernardino Valley College.  Here I can assist you with learning MasterCAM, SolidWorks, and both conventional and CNC mills and lathes.  This class can help bring your projects to reality.

The machine shop at SBVC has 9 conventional mills, 12 conventional lathes, 4 Haas CNC mills, and a Haas lathe at your disposal.

This 4-unit class meets Monday and Tuesday evenings from 6pm to 10pm, beginning August 19, 2014 and ends December 16, 2014.  Tuition and fees amount to $215.

Let me know if I can help in any way.



WarZone / Drought management
« on: August 03, 2014, 06:55:46 pm »
Our tax dollars managing the drought crisis.  This is all of the water being dumped into the ocean from just an hour of rain.

The No Wake Zone / Crane operators to the courtesy phone
« on: July 27, 2014, 06:29:57 pm »
I teach manufacturing technology and Mechanical Crafts at San Bernardino Valley College.  It has fallen upon me to take over an Introduction to Rigging Systems class.  This class is a 16-hour not-for-certification class, rather a general information class targeted towards industrial and mechanical maintenance.

Twice this last year a rigging course, offered at another school, that my dept. head and I were scheduled to attend was cancelled.

My questions are:
1.)  Any suggestions where I could get training or certification on this subject?
2.)  What kind of certification should I be looking for?

The equipment that I have for demonstration includes:

1-ton fixed height gantry crane
Push trolleys
500# 110VAC electric wire rope hoist
500# hand chain hoist
Block & Tackle, pulley hoist
Ratchet hoist
3/8” wire rope sling
3/8” wire rope choker sling
2-leg wire rope bridle sling
4-leg chain bridle slings
Metal mesh sling
Synthetic web sling
Additional related hardware

The books and equipment were originally provided by Amatrol but is no longer supported.  The content of the Amatrol curriculum is typically targeted at the high-school level.

Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,


The No Wake Zone / Looking for a shop that works on Volvos
« on: April 30, 2014, 12:23:29 am »
Could anybody recommend a good Volvo mechanic shop in the vicinity of either Redlands or Santa Ana areas?

Thank you in advance,


The No Wake Zone / Auto Transmission / Engine Oil Cooler Plumbing
« on: January 20, 2014, 01:48:18 pm »
Hi all,

This question is directed at those who do (relatively) heavy towing with their light (1-ton) trucks.

My truck is currently equipped with factory in-radiator oil cooler along with the typical factory in-radiator trans cooler combined with a small front mounted oil-to-air cooler.  I am getting ready to install my new engine / transmission along with an upgraded cooling system.  My questions are as follows:

First, I have heard two schools of thought regarding plumbing trans/engine oil coolers.  1.)  Plumb both the factory style in-radiator cooler and the oil-to-air in series.  2.)  Omit the factory style in-radiator cooler and run only an oil-to-air cooler.  Which do you prefer and why?

Second, what are your thoughts on installing cooling fans on the oil-to-air coolers?  Will fans make any difference to oil temps at towing speeds?

Thank you in advance,


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