Way back when,  my shop charged two days labor and materials to do a complete electrical redo.

This was using a new Mercury Marine engine harness,  canon plug kit, accessory wiring, battery cables and gauge electrical including ATO fuse panel and accessory circuit breakers.

Today's pricing I would think that's a $1500 dollar job. Give or take.


GT

Agreed. I've done several wire jobs on boats in the past and that seems to be a fair number. I could probably get it a little bit lower. I also build my wiring harnesses by hand as well.


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What did they come out of

Came out of my 1969 Weimans blown BBC.


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yeah my simple understanding is that a jet does not need anything to "push" against to create thrust. So that really shouldnt matter.

But it could be creating to much lift and making the boat very light in the back. Especially with the diverter.

heres my setup. Works pretty good

I completely agree. Thanks for the pic man and for the info. That's what I'll do.


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Hey guys been a while since I've posted anything but I recently purchased a new boat,1969 Weimans 17' jet boat with a 468 671 blown BBC. The first trip I took it out to Silverwood lake to see how it would handle. Boat is fast and a blast until I hit a couple small waves nothing that I Haven't hit before with my Hornet jet boat and I find my self doing a 360 before I could even blink. Very scary ordeal I tell you. After assessing the situation I have a theory.  With the boat coming out of the water on speed I don't think my jet is in the water all that much and hitting those couple of small waves I lost my propulsion causing me to wipe out. See pictures below to look at my pump angle and tell me what you think? I have an idea what the fix is but would like to hear what you guys think. Thanks.


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Good starting point.
1. Disconnect linkage isolating each carb from each other
2. Take your idle screws run them in all the way and back them out about a turn and a half
3. Get your idle screws about even going to kinda guess on that part depending on carbs.
4. Now that you have both carbs isolated and about even on your needles fire it up.
5. Play with the idle screws a little bit see if you can get it to idle half way different
6. Take your uni sync devise which I have two for convenience and try to get the vacuum even.
7. Once you have got both carbs reading the same setting on the uni-sync try and get the car to idle about 1200 rpms for now.
8.Now that you set take your idle screws start opening them one at a time until it starts to spudder and close them back until it starts to spudder again and back until you start to run at the highest rpm.
9. Once you have done that it should be running good. Hook your linkage back up making sure you don't mess with your idle setting and that both carbs work evenly when applying the throttle.
10. You should be running pretty good from here. If after all that your still not running right make sure your jets are clean and that they all match the same size. A lot of times it will read a number on the jet but in the vw world it's cheaper to open a small jet then to just buy the right ones in the first place.

Yea new one is on its way from summit racing. Had no problem with exchanging it.

Ok did a 30 min run at 2,000 rpm. Oil psi was good good as well. Pump disconnected so ruled that out of the engine. Go to restart engine and it's doing the same thing. Feels like it's locking up. Oil psi is good!!  WTF!!!  Went to feel the starter and it was at 230 degrees. Engine is at 150 degrees. That doesn't seem right. Found out the starter wasn't disengaging like it should and was stuck on the flywheel spinning the whole time at what ever rpm I was running and getting hot. So when I was to restart the engine the starter was locking up and making the engine seem it was locking up. So making sure in the future  I will deff make sure it's shimmed correctly. New starter is on the way.

Yea true. I'm gonna disconnect to engine from the pump and run it and see what it does. Hope for the best. Also can different cams cause water to suck in more easily?

What do you have controlling the water now? It should have a valve operated by pressure or rpm.

There should not be one drop of water on the headers below 1,500 rpm.

GT

Yea that's OK for sure I know it's not coming out until 1800-2000. .0035 was heavily recommended by many sources and people because of it being a marine application. So that's what I went with. Anything else I prefer .0025.

It's running Bassett wet headers. I can see it may be sacking water. How do I stop it from sucking  water

Sounds like you got a good set up. Oil psi looks good. That's always my fear on new engines and also old engines. I find myself looking at that gauge all the time. Good luck.....


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Sweet man I got the same kit for my olds. Wish I was closer I would totally give you a hand.


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