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Messages - Bonzen

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gate valve routing
« on: June 23, 2017, 08:54:55 AM »
I like your setup because because if you blow a water line you can close the ball valve instantly. I close my gate valve maybe a turn. I'd rather it run cool than potentially not feed the motor enough water.

Well thats exactly my reasoning. My boat is freshwater only, so I'm not worried about rust freezing up a ball valve.  I have a very expensive 2000WOG ball valve right after a stainless steel braided high pressure line off the pump. No hose clamps here, -10 flare fittings

The reason I do not shut down the water flow, is because I am concerned that limiting the flow to the motor will cause some of the water jackets up in the cylinder heads to not receive the full flow and volume. This could develop hot spots. So while your block jackets are good to go, the upper areas of the heads are I don't have proof of this but it's a theory. As far as pressure blowing out gaskets, well...hasn't happened yet. But I have a free flowing water system. No t-stat or restrictor orifice and big aluminum factory risers with good water discharge into the exhaust. My boat doesn't spin over 5K rpm. So yes, my water temp runs a little cooler than maybe ideal, but we all know that water temp is the "temperature of the amount of heat that was removed or transferred from the motor to the water" technically. So water temp is not engine temp, or oil temp which is probably more important.

Idk lol...

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gate valve routing
« on: June 22, 2017, 07:52:10 AM »
I would think closing off the ball valve halfway would limit water volume, but pressure would stay the same.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gate valve routing
« on: June 21, 2017, 10:23:44 AM »
The way I understand it is the ball valve is more of an all-or-nothing valve. Also, it seems like it would be easy to knock it out of adjustment with the large handle. The gate valve allows fine tuning of how much water enters the motor.

I run the ball valve and leave it open all the time for full flow. I understand what you are a saying, as far as controlling the amount of water that enters the motor. Are you controlling this to determine water temp?

No big deal dude. Thats actually better, when you are idling you are probably not burning off the carbon in the cylinders as much as when you are WOT. So a little hotter temp will help with that. 160 is still cold. Thats like before the Tstat opens in 90% of cars and trucks.

Mine does the same thing. Around 110-125 cruising deep water and then like 145-160 in warm stagnant water idling. Im not running a Tstat either.

Just installed the Holley Terminator EFI on my BBC. However Holley recommends a 75-100 micron pre-filter (after gas tank, but before the fuel pump) and there isn't a canister type water fuel separator that high flowing I can find.

I found a 21 micron Sierra unit, but that's still way restrictive according to Holley. Any ideas? Besides not running one...

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Holley Terminator EFI kit
« on: March 07, 2017, 01:25:02 PM »
Anyone have any experience with this? I can get a good deal on the full kit with the fuel system.

I'm currently running an over-bored & custom 2 barrel TBI with qty (2) injectors on my 454. MEFI 1 ecu old skool tech... I know the thing isn't getting enough fuel and air, wanted to stay injected as opposed to going carb. The O2 sensor mounting wouldn't be an issue as I have already developed a dry adapter plate for the wet logs that has proven to work with the current wide-band A/F gauge & sensor I'm running.

My main question is would this unit and software function the same on a jet boat motor as it would on a big block in a car...mainly would it "see" engine load the same (impeller loading vs tires on pavement) or is this a non-issue? I already know the self learning feature might require a laptop to get to function correctly as it wont self learn until 160 degrees water temp and my boat only sees that idling. At WOT its usually around 110-130 depending on how cold the water is (I don't run a T-stat) However the unit does have a built in MAP sensor, TPS and can be told what Air Fuel ratios to hold at idle, cruise, and WOT so I would assume it would still work alot better than my current setup. Thoughts?

Ok sounds good, will machine with no water jacket slots.

Yes, I'm hearing that from a few people...that the sensor will not last much more than a few trips if I'm lucky lol. It is just for tuning purposes and that's it.

So I have access to a 3 axis CNC at my work and I am going to have a 1" thick aluminum spacer made so I can plug in my Innovate Motorsports wide-band O2 and get some real A/F readings to help tune my boat. It's a jet boat and runs wet logs, so obviously i have to keep the sensor dry. However my question is, when i unbolted the snail off the manifold, I noticed the gasket has water jacket slots on the snail side, but not on the manifold side. Are they blocked off on the manifold side for a reason? Because if there is no allowed water flow from the snail to the manifold, then why does the snail even need the gasket with the water jacket cutouts? Seems like they should just both run the block off gasket. Does this make sense or am i missing something here? Reason I'm asking is i need to know if I have to machine the water jacket slots in the spacer or of i can just leave it solid. See pics...thanks!

Mine has some excessive internal wear & the nozzle o-ring isn't sealing correctly...need a new one. If you recently upgraded to a droop or something similar or have a spare lying around please PM me or post up. Thanks!

Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter nozzle o-ring clearance
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:18:12 PM »
Not a bad idea. thanks for the info!

Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter nozzle o-ring clearance
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:29:01 AM »
I actually thought about doing that.. wasn't sure if it would cause the o-ring to blow off due to it not sitting far enough in the groove though if I filled up the groove with Teflon tape. Idk how I'm gunna get that thing out without damaging it though, it's in there tight lol. Called Place, they said they never made an oversized o-ring so I guess I'm stuck with the size I got and I need to buy a new nozzle dammit.

Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter nozzle o-ring clearance
« on: June 29, 2015, 07:24:29 AM »
Yeah I hear ya, there is some wear for sure, but it was sealing better with the old o-ring, that's all I'm trying to figure out why. I'm gunna have to call Place and see if they made some oversize o-ring for a worn knuckle because it really seems like that's what I had in there.  If upgrading/new knuckle is the only answer then's a boat!

Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter nozzle o-ring clearance
« on: June 28, 2015, 04:15:21 PM »
How does the spherical bore in the knuckle look?  Sometimes they get some excessive wear.

It didnt look too bad. The paint/powdercoat was rubbed clean off in the travel area but I didnt feel a major difference in wall degredation. See attached pics of the inside of knuckle and the new o-ring installed/nozzle installed.

Jet Pumps / Place Diverter nozzle o-ring clearance
« on: June 28, 2015, 12:00:17 PM »
Changed out my old Teflon nozzle o-ring for a brand new one, the new o-ring has a .210 thickness (verified with calipers) which I have been told is for the Place diverter while the smaller diameter o-ring is for stock Berk.

However once installed, the nozzle doesn't seem to fit tight at all in the steering knuckle. I have replaced the nyliners as well around the steering pins. I stuck my hand up in the nozzle with a flashlight and you can clearly see light coming through between the knuckle wall and the o-ring...doesn't seem like a tight seal at all.

Is there an oversize o-ring for Place Diverter? It's possible that I may have had something like that originally, as the old o-ring was pretty badly worn on one side of it where it contacts the inside of the knuckle which makes me think it was sealing tight, or tight enough that it was constantly scraping the sides of the knuckle. Unfortunately I didn't really check to see how tight my old o-ring was before I took it off. The new one doesn't seem to be touching the inside of the knuckle at all. It's possible that the inside of the knuckle is slightly worn due to sand and being 20 years old, but even so the old o-ring still sealed much better then the new one. Both are white and seem to be the same material. Any ideas?

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