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The No Wake Zone / Re: What are you listening to?
« on: August 28, 2020, 10:14:40 PM »
Turnpike Troubadours
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It's really hard on the pump to run them dry.Yes it is. Unfortunately I don’t have a PTO. U joint bolts directly to flywheel. I can hear the thrust bearing rattle a little at low rpm when it’s on the hose to I try to keep it to a minimum.
Make sure the 3/8 tube is clear my insert came loose and was blocking mine and that was my overheating problemI’ll check it. Seems to be something between the motor and the pump because it runs cooler on the hose than in the lake.
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Do you have all of the water flowing through wet exhaust? Just wondering if you have verified flow if you are dumping water overboard via a bulkhead.Yes they are log manifolds. After playing with it a little it seems to run cooler on the hose than it does in the lake. I wonder if gate valve is bad.
You call the mechanic? That's a bunch of shit.If there is damage I will be giving him a call. Otherwise, I don’t want them touching my shit anymore.
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Keep us updated and think happy thoughts...The pushrods look unharmed. Gonna pull the intake and check lifters this weekend. I’m hoping it will only cost me new gaskets. 🤞
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Does it have a miss or crank uneven? Could have hucked a lifter...Winner winner chicken dinner
GT
How fast did you shut it down?As soon as I looked at the pressure gauge.
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It’s a ford lol jk hope u find the problemThe funny thing is the damn thing ran great for 34 years before I decided to rebuild it and put aftermarket parts in it.
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Where did you notice the noise coming from top or bottom?
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Does it have a miss or crank uneven? Could have hucked a lifter...No. Fires up and sounds fine. Just no oil pressure.
GT
The slightest little bit of debris will lock a pump up solid.. Did you weld the pick up tube? Did you set the pan to pick clearance? Did you set the distributor gear depth?If there was a failed pin in the distributor, wouldn’t it have not fired right back up?
My money would be on a failed roll pin in the distributor. It needs to come apart..
GT
If you have a pneumatic ratchet that will work greatYeah I do. I have the bit that fits over the shaft to prime the oil system. Have you ever seen a new pump fail?
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Pull the distributor and hand crank that shaft and see if you get oil to the rockers.I am going to do that tonight. Hopefully I caught it in time and didn’t spin a bearing.
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Hopefully nothing serous . Did u try another gauge ?My first thought was bad gauge or sender. But the fact I noticed the engine start to labor a little bit is what concerns me.
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Thanks for sharing knowledge about this.As lakes only mentioned, you can talk to ten people and get 10 opinions. I would honestly go with what ever he recommends for your set up. George (the owner) has been building engines for jet boats for a very long time. He won’t steer you wrong. I think your exhaust is going to hold you back from the full potential so I’m sure he won’t recommend anything to aggressive because it would just be a waste.
I'm repeating myself, but..
Do you mean the Clay Smith recommended camshaft is OK, it's just that i really should have a higher compression ratio and a better exhaust? -to get better use of it
OR should i buy another camshaft?
If no no other camshaft will give me any higher HP because of my exhaust/compression i think i'm just going to go for it..
And then it's the question regarding the lobe separation.
Clay smith at first recommended 108 degree, that would be no problem they said because of my exhaust type, but they could also grind 110 degree on the same camshaft, would also work well they said.
Would i loose much power with that?
Lots of questions, but i'm struggling here![]()
Of course if you talk with ten different cam grinders and/or engine builders, you'll get ten different opinions as to which camshaft you should use in your engine.After looking at an impeller chart, that seems about right.
If you were to remove the current camshaft from your 1979 engine and install the Clay Smith cam shown above, and add ported D3VE heads/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake/Edelbrock 1410 750cfm carburetor as you intend, you might make 425 hp. The engine will not generate 475 hp in your boat. It will not generate 450 hp. It might make 425. Perhaps it could generate more on a dyno at a higher rpm, but your jet pump won't allow it to get there and you'll never experience it in your boat. Part of the reason for the unexpectedly low resulting power is the camshaft choice itself, another part is the overall engine combination relative to the new cam (although your newly acquired engine in its current state is a fine parts combination).
If I were building a 460 engine for a jet boat and stuck with using that camshaft, the build would need to have tubular over-transom headers. Then the power output might get to 475 in your boat.
The peak valve lift advertised on the Clay Smith cam card is right at the point where it would be highly advisable to machine down the D3VE's valve guides for more retainer-to-guide clearance and simultaneously convert them for snap-on stem seals (rather than the OEM umbrella-type seals). The OEM pedestal valve train could still be utilized including the stamped steel rocker arms if properly set up with pedestal shims and correct pushrod lengths; aftermarket pedestal roller rocker arms might be a nice upgrade but not entirely mandatory.
Correct, you need an external balance flexplate. Try eBay.I think he was talking about the cam that clay smith quoted him on. I have the same one with the worked over D3VE heads and it put me in the neighborhood of 450-500. I turn about 5100 with an agressor A/B cut
The heads will need machining in the valve train area to accept more lift, exactly what gets machined depends on camshaft and valve train setup but for sure you need to machine down the valve guide bosses. Maybe you will need to convert the pedestal rockers to 7/16 stud but that is not for certain just yet. I do happen to have a set of ported D3VE heads for sale with the 7/16" stud conversion already done.
There sure are some nice aluminum heads out there, but they most certainly are not needed for such low horsepower builds.Factory iron 429-460 passenger car heads has supported in excess of 1700 horsepower, naturally aspirated close to 800 hp. Why spend thousands on aluminum heads for such a mild build? That's misappropriated budget spending.
If the claim of 475 hp is made with the camshaft linked in your original post, then the individual at Clay Smith Cams is off by at least 100 hp. 375 hp is more realistic, but still optimistic and assumes optimum, optimum tune with your engine parts combo as pictured.
Split ratio rockers favoring the intake increases the intensity at which the intake valve opens (and closes). It's like increasing the duration @.050 without increasing seat-to-seat timing. This helps to get the air/fuel mixture flowing that much sooner in the intake cycle.That makes sense. I always thought it was just built into the cam grind but that is pretty cool. Thanks for the explanation.
Rocker ratio is not constant throughout the range of motion. You can play around with rocker geometry and actually change where in the lift profile you get the most benefit from ratio.
