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Messages - perryb

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1
Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter installation fit issues
« on: September 15, 2019, 06:39:51 am »
Too cool !

2
The only thing I can think of a set of Eddie Marine center-rise manifolds with the optional "S" pipes.  The E pump makes that a tight installation.

3
Jet Pumps / Re: Wierd problems with sweet boat
« on: September 12, 2019, 09:33:51 pm »
As soon as it starts, rev it up a bit to purge the pump of air. I back in to just before the point of full flotation and then start it and goose it to prime the pump.  It primes faster with the reverse gate open.

4
Jet Pumps / Re: Wierd problems with sweet boat
« on: September 04, 2019, 07:05:38 pm »
I'm sorry but I can't be of help with the cooling, too many unknowns. but I know the "why?" to your second question. The fuel is sucked out of the top of the tanks (via a tube to the bottom) and unless every aspect of the left and right side of the fuel system is perfectly symmetrical, they'll never burn evenly. If they were Teed together from the bottoms of the tanks, it'd be a different story. As it is, if one side has a longer run to the tee or a higher maximum elevation in the line routing, that tank will always burn last/slowest. You're basically stuck with needing a selector valve of some sort.

5
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Question for you Ford guys
« on: September 03, 2019, 05:14:54 am »
Scrap it. The 400 was/is a complete wheezer. Something like 185 hp. I had one in a 79 f150 and the only thing that resembles a 460 is the fuel consumption.

6
Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter installation fit issues
« on: August 28, 2019, 04:56:31 pm »
I know the feeling. You stand there, drill in hand, trying to make yourself pull the trigger.

7
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Oil pressure gauge
« on: August 25, 2019, 06:57:31 pm »
Somewhere between the gauge and sender, that wire is shorted directly to ground.

8
Jet Pumps / Re: Help...
« on: August 12, 2019, 05:50:31 pm »
You'll have to elaborate on "Wants to crank". Does it, or does it not spin over when you twist the key.?  Does it crank but not start, or does it just go "CLUNK" when you twist the key? I would be surprised if the bowl  bushing would stop the engine.

9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Oil in my water
« on: August 12, 2019, 02:23:16 pm »
If it's not from over watering the headers at low speed, I'd be right back looking at the intake manifold. You'll have to pull it off, clean everything up immaculately, and re-assemble with quality gaskets and a good sealer like Ultra Black (my personal favorite). My old 455 was a bit of a problem child in terms of sealing the corners of the intake.
Also, when you put it back on, omit the rubber/cork end seals and just lay down a nice bead of silicone, approx. 1/4" diameter.

10
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Oil in my water
« on: August 10, 2019, 10:47:28 am »
In the case of a 455, one of my first suspects is the intake manifold leaking into the valley. Often the underlying cause is excessive cooling system pressure. install a temporary pressure gauge somewhere in the system and see what you have. If it's exceeding 15 psi you should consider installing a pressure relief valve. If you already have one, it's probably locked up with sand and not functioning.

11
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Is this junk?
« on: August 07, 2019, 09:50:16 pm »
Its impossible to say just by looking BUT..... magnetic pickups are usually an either/or item. They either work or they don't. Is the pickup/ reluctor gap adjustable?  The clearance spec is pretty small, something like 8-9 thousandths.

12
Jet Pumps / Re: Pump/engine very slow to prime w/H2O
« on: July 30, 2019, 04:50:57 pm »
A thermostat is fine if you have it installed correctly with a by-pass kit, like the Rex system ( I think they're sold through Eddie Marine now). Just don't go over 160 T-stat. I put one on my BBC/Berk years ago and wouldn't be without it. It runs SO much better in cold water. The only thing I suggest however, is to drill a second 5/16" hole in the by-pass plate. That's what provides block circulation and exhaust cooling while the stat is closed and block pressure is down (low RPM).

13
Jet Pumps / Re: Taking on Water at WOT
« on: July 29, 2019, 08:50:25 pm »
If you have a loader grate, and the shaft packing rings are worn out, it'll take water at higher speeds. At higher speeds (with a loader) you have positive pressure in front of the impeller. My 12 JG shaft seal will just barely drip at idle and low cruise, but drips much faster at high cruise or WOT. Still not a lot of water though, maybe 2-3 gallons during a full afternoon of hot-dogging around the lake. It sounds like yours is leaking pretty fast. Yes, it could be the bowl gasket, but I am more inclined to suspect the packing rings. Get someone to watch it (or drive) while you're romping on it. It's an easy fix, just add more rings. If the packing gland is tightened all the way down and it's still leaking, you'll probably need to add 2 rings.

14
Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter installation fit issues
« on: July 24, 2019, 06:08:47 am »
Sorry, I originally missed your location as being Alberta. Yes shipping between US and Canada sucks, I've sent aircraft parts and it was quite a hassle. So how far off is the bottom pin once the top is in ?

15
Jet Pumps / Re: Place Diverter installation fit issues
« on: July 23, 2019, 07:27:41 pm »
You probably got a poorly machined diverter. From the description, I'm almost certain the pin bores are not coaxial. When you get one side in, how far off is the other? A few thousandth, or is it more? I had a little quality control issue with Place myself recently, they seem to be having a hard time making straight rudders.
If it's not straight, send it back. It's a pain and it kills time, but the manufacturer should be the one who has to make it right, not you.

16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Starter got stuck
« on: July 19, 2019, 09:01:04 am »
If the starter keeps turning after the key is released, it's NOT a stuck Bendix drive. The electrical contact in the solenoid (or relay if so equipped) is welding itself shut and not dropping out. This happens when they get old and the copper coating gets burned off the steel contact plate.

17
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Starter got stuck
« on: July 19, 2019, 08:07:54 am »
 Either the starter solenoid contact has welded itself to the contact posts or the relay has stuck, if so equipped.   Does your boat have a relay in the solenoid line (it should but not all boats do)? Either situation will give you a "stuck" starter. Usually after cutting power the stuck contact will drop out of engagement,  but will stick again the next time you energize it. If it's a relay failure,  its an easy replacement. If it's the starter sol, you CAN replace it, but you have to partially disassemble the starter to do so. Most people will replace the complete starter assy at this point.  Hopefully it's a top mount.

18
As stated above, the primary discharge should be an open line. Also have someone watch the pressure relief line while at high RPM to see if its opening. Your relief may be stuck shut or plugged with sand.
If you want to regulate engine temp, look into a thermostat kit. I think its a better solution than throttling the incoming water flow.  I put one on my 454 and it runs a constant 155-158 and no more cold stumble out of the hole.
-- Looking at the picture, that pressure relief valve appears to be adjustable. It's not just screwed in too far is it??

19
Fabrication / Re: Quieting down a BBC?
« on: July 13, 2019, 12:36:00 pm »
The Eddie Marine Thunder would be my choice. You'd experience a minimal power loss and your eardrums will love you for it. So will other boaters.

20
Jet Pumps / Re: Suggested gear oil for jetpump
« on: July 04, 2019, 09:52:25 am »
I think any heavy gear lube is fine. I put 85-140 in mine. My seal leaks a little, and the heavier oil stays in better, and helps keep water intrusion down.

21
Jet Pumps / Re: Driveline Grenaded
« on: July 03, 2019, 07:41:52 pm »
With a jet boat you're connecting two fixed points with a joint that has no tolerance for longitudinal mis-alignment. The engine and pump don't have to be perfectly parallel, but the centerline of the crank and the centerline of the pump must intersect at the center of that double cardan joint. The way the case of that DC joint came apart, I'm pretty confident it's an alignment issue. I know I'm new to this forum, but I've been working on all kinds of shaft driven industrial equipment,farm equip, well heads etc. for almost 40 years and that looks like alignment to me. It's too bad somebody hasn't adapted a Dodge coupler (nothing to do with the auto maker) to a jet boat. They're perfect for imperfect alignment applications and absolutely constant velocity.
BlackSheep-- I was reading about your boat/engine build on another thread. Love it! I have built a couple hi-perf 460's over the years and am a fan of those (385 family) engines. With a set of cleaned-up (exh port) D3 heads and about 10:1's you can build a real torque monster.

22
Jet Pumps / Re: Driveline Grenaded
« on: July 01, 2019, 08:54:58 pm »
I think that has to be an alignment/geometry issue. Especially the way it recurs in a predictable number of hours.

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