1. Intended use - 18ft light Jet Boat

2. Vehicle info (weight/gearing/trans) - 900lb jet boat hull + 1000lbs engine, fluids, gear, direct drive to jet pump (pto adapter to 1310 spicer u-joint for jet pump shaft). Jet pump is a berkeley 12JE with an AA impeller and inducer freshly rebuilt.

3. Fuel desired to use ( racing gas/av gas/E-85/methonal/pumpgas(include octane available)) - pump 93 octane

4. Parts you already have:

460 that I believe is mostly factory spec (rated at 320hp from the factory (hardin marine 460) but has a re-manufactured stamp on the side so not sure of any of the specs still apply). Never really built an engine from the bottom up but know enough to bolt things together and have enough tools I think I could build one. I rather not have to pay or rely on a machine shop though.
It is currently running but has a tick on 1-4 cylinder bank somewhere. I plan to run a leak test tonight to maybe pinpoint which cylinder. It is down on power. I am guessing stuck lifter?

    Intake: EB Performer 460 Intake Manifold dual pane non EGR #2166
    Carb: Quick-fuel marine carb - secondary vacuum (600CFM, yes I know maybe a tad undersized but maybe not given low compression spec of engine 8.35:1)
    Fuel pump: Mechanical holley 110gph
    Distributor: Pertronix III marine - mechanical advance only. Currently running 10 degree advance at idle 900rpm, 32 all in at 3200rpm.
    Block: 2 bolt main (1970s) externally balanced (see picture)
    Crank: 3YA, externally balanced (see picture)
    Pistons: I believe factory truck cast pistons (see picture)
    Rods: Factory rods I believe (see picture)
    Heads: Not entirely sure. I linked a video believe but I guess D3s but I don't see any casting mark on them. Also I can't tell if the exhaust ports have been ported, some shown the smog bulge slightly and some are flat? (see video/picture)
    Valve Train: Stock I believe but I see a red damper inside the springs I think? (see video/picture)
    Cam: No idea specs or type (if I was to swap the cam I would like to go hydrualic roller cam? given flat tappet issues and lifter quality control, the new stuff won't break in properly from what I have been reading) (see picture but probably can't tell much)
    Timing Set: Stock I think (see picture)
    Oil Pump: Factory front sump with 5 quart pan. I run an oil temp sensor in it given pan size. Don't have the money for a large 10 qt baffled/rear sump one. Also the engine runes relatively cool when under power given open loop cooling with no T-stat. At idle it will get around 170F (water temp) but quickly drop as soon as lake water is circulated through the engine from the jet pump. I haven't really seen oil temp rise above 140F. There is also some lake water splashing around in the bildge area and the pan sits about 1 inches above the bottom of the boat so I guess some of the lake water is also cooling the pan slightly. I run a 10-40W oil per the factory manual but maybe this is too heavy weight given the rebuild done in the past, no idea because I don't know piston/cam specs or anything.
    Exhaust: Marine wet jacketed risers thru transom in an enclosed hatch (aftermarket water jacketed headers aren't really an option $$$$$, maybe logs + snails but might reduce power further but would provide better packaging vs the risers and allow larger valve covers) (see picture)
    Valve Cover: Stamped steel (I hate them, such a pain to seal with steel core gaskets even taping the bolt holes flush), I can't run larger valve covers except the very rare/expensive M/T Ford or Holley ones due to exhaust manifold clearance. (see picture)


5. Proposed Budget - Like $500-1K? Basically just want to spruce it up to around 400hp with a peak rpm of around 4700-5000rpm, reliable lake boat on pump gas. There are machine shops around me but wait time is very long and pricing I would suspect is crazy so rather just be able to bolt things together if i can.

6. Location this may help to find a good machine shop - Raleigh NC Area


Heads video identify?

Always subtract 20mph from seller top speed claims unless they can prove it via gps or your water test.

I would remove that glass fuel filter, they are junk and known to break. Get a water/fuel separator like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-18-7982-1-Marine-Separator/dp/B001F0KO6O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=marine+fuel+water+separator&qid=1657544588&sr=8-3

They are self bleeding, just run it up and down 3-4 times. Make sure there is ATF fluid in the reservoir. If it isn't working check your ground and power wire. Run the 12v directly to battery if possible. You can unscrew the solenoids and check them. They shouldn't be over tightened.

Looking for a Holley Ford 460 Fuel pump with dump valve. Holley quit making this particular one for enclosed hatches. Model 712-460-11/13. Looks like attached except for ford 460.

I take it this pump is done, can't be sleeved? Thurst bearing exploded. Doesn't appear my 12je is fully epoxy in and can be unbolted and replaced?

https://youtube.com/shorts/-UsmZovS-8Y?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/y0DUlmC6XSU?feature=share

Does my bowl look OK? The bowl bearing housing looks a little suspect?

I found this thread but need further clarity on the exact process having never pulled the engine or tried to align drive shafts.
https://www.socaljetboats.com/engine-mechanical-electrical/converting-bbc-from-3pt-to-4pt-mounts/

I need to replace my driveshaft and figured I might as well convert to 4 point mount with the engine out for ease of use disconnecting drive shaft when running out of water and more rigidity with more power upgrades down the road. I believe I have existing center mounts so I should be able to mount everything without having to worry about drive-line angle changes.

steps:
- mount front mounts to block and drill holes into stringer with engine still installed with 3 point mount
- pull engine
- remove 3 pt bell housing
- install 4 point rear mount on engine block
- put engine back in and attach via 4 pt front mount and existing old center mounts
- mark rear 4 point stringer holes and drill stringer
- pull engine again, remove old center mounts and plug old center stringer holes (best method to fill holes)?
- install engine in new 4 point mounts

Where to start, hmmmm.

A mostly stock 460, with an A impeller should be at ~4800.

You'll drop approx 300 rpm with a 2A.

A pump sees actual (uncorrected) HP, not corrected HP.

For reference, a boat I own, had a 460, A impeller, and a top speed of 52, previous owner, gps'd. I bought the boat less motor, and bolted in a 325 hp SBC, ran 55 with 3 aboard, and 57 by my self, same pump.

My big block boat, with an American Turbine AA impeller, turned 4950-5000 rpm, and right at 500 HP. (And only 57 mph up river)

A loose pump will turn more rpm, ~200 or so, maybe more.

If you're set on a 2A, you'll probably want more horsepower.

Hope this helps.

Dan'l

I was easily turning 5100rpm (max rev limit) with this A pump but as you can tell the pump was clearly inefficient. Funny enough I was able to hit 65mph gps with the impeller in this condition which is crazy (slow build up to that speed)...

Given peak HP on most stock 460 is around the 4500rpm mark, I feel a 2A is good enough with maybe 5 or so HP loss compared to a A pump spinning a 460 at 4800rpm, but lower RPM with less wear on the engine, lower decibels, and room to upgrade the engine horsepower in the same relative RPM band (keep RPMs 5K or less with aluminum impeller). I don't really want to build a 460 out to scream at 6K+ and have peak horsepower way up high.

I was able to pull the impeller off and appears the wear ring wasn't eat through into the pump housing and the suction lip appears fine. Even the veins on the bowl look fine. I guess all the metal pieces coming off impeller mostly went through the bowl un-touched which is crazy. In the last part of my video I can easily move the drive shaft up down, side to side, in and out, makes me think my thrust bearing is gone. Hopefully my engine crank is alright.

Is inducer worth it on a 12JE?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/L2l3ifFdUPM



I appreciate the real world insight.

As for impeller I think I want to run an aluminum AA instead of the aluminum A that was in it. I don't know the exact specs of my engine as it had some internal work done maybe by previous owner. For all intents and purposes I am assuming stock marine Hardin Ford 460 rated at 320ish hp.

My boat specs:
~900lb hull 18', 900lb motor (ford 460), ~2200lbs with 1 rider, full tank, and gear.
12JE pump + place diverter. (12je has a ride plate, not sure specs of intake grate)
Mostly a lake cruiser (ski puller) with some top speed in mind (65-70mph goal). Only holds 4 adults.

Dyno graph of a stock 460 below from youtube that made 350hp peak, assume similar power curve but at ~320hp peak.

AA impeller at 320hp = 4400rpm according to impeller chart.

Peak power for 460 is at 4700rpm, but at 4400pm it is very close to peak - 5 hp or so.

A impeller at 320hp = 4700pm according to chart. If I am making slightly more hp due to upgrades though I don't really want to spin an aluminum impeller past 5000rpm (Berkeley says aluminum is rated up to 500hp and not past 4700rpm) nor do I want the extra stress on the engine from the higher RPMs.

Going with AA means lower noise overall, lower rpms, and giving up 5 peak hp for my stock engine compared to running a A while leaving more headroom for engine modifications down the line still using an aluminum impeller.

Am I thinking about this correctly?

Have been working on the trailer, new transom ratchet strap tie-downs (previously nothing before), new bow stop (still have factory bumper arms but may take them off, they are starting to rust and trap water in the tubes, tried cleaning the drain holes but they are all eaten up inside), and replaced the 40 year old sagging leaf springs (removing the old bolts was a chore to say the least)

Also rebuilt the factory carter marine pump (you can see old diaphragm was cracked, lucky it didn't rupture before I rebuilt it). The rebuild kit was from then and now automotive, super helpful guy.

I have a trailer already but is 3" steel and showing some frame rust spots and axles frame connectors have had to be relocated/replaced already. Not in a rush to get another but would like to get a smaller lighter single axle (dual axle fine also, pros and cons for both) aluminum trailer. This heavy dual axle steel one is overkill for a 2,000lb boat. I am on east coast so finding "old school jet boat" trailers isn't happening. Thus was curious of alternatives people have used. I think bass boat style trailers would work (similar v-hull profile).

Any chance a bass boat (nitro z-7 18' 8" boat) trailer (made by tracker marine) would fit a 18ft jet boat?

Profile of jet boat

https://sacramentoboatrepair.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/keaton-boat-1024x683.jpg

Profile of bass boat
https://www.topspeed.com/boats/nitro/2015-nitro-z-7-ar166590.html

Trailer:

I re-wired some stuff on my 460 recently but I kept the engine terminal block. (I don't pull my engine often enough to warrant the benefits of a clip harness connection, I also spray silicon and keep anti-corrosion electrical gel on the terminal block).

I did end up wiring a fuse box under my dash to control some extra stuff. I added to my boat such as toggle switch to control hydraulic trim, some usb ports, new light switches, and new gauges. I also fused my bilge pump.

For anything with a higher amp draw I would recommend reset circuit breakers.I prefer the manual reset ones vs automatic because then you have to physically reset the circuit and alerted of an issue vs automatics which will reset themselves after a delay.

Also maybe consider a battery selector switch. That way you can easily do any wire changes/diagnostics and quickly cut the circuit without have to disconnect the battery connections. Plus you can run two batteries if needed. Also if you are running constant circuits straight from the battery or that aren't switched, it gives you piece of mind your battery won't be drained when you to start the boat the next time. Some things have very low amp draw like USB ports/etc that could slowly drain the battery.

Power distribution blocks are also nice to have to minimize amount of wires connected to the battery and that way they can source power straight from the battery for more reliability (for me this includes bilge pumps and hydraulic trim pump). I put my distribution block in a water proof box along with the manual circuit reset switches.

In terms of constant power/grounds etc that is up to you. For my fuse block under the dash I grounded it off the metal bracket that supports my gauges which was already an existing ground vs running a long ground back to the battery or engine ground.

My key switch controls most of my circuits power. That way I can decide if I want some circuits on constant or key switched controlled. I guess this does put more load on the key switch control as a central point of failure but my boat isn't exactly pulling a ton of amps. You could complicate the circuit more with solenoids and reduce the load on the key switch eg, key switch only sends signal, solenoids handle the actual load (ignition, starter, etc) but that also introduces more points of failure. Just make sure you have a quality key switch.

In terms of sourcing wire, I used ebay was it cheapest for me to get the color/awg/marine rated/length I needed. I used heat shrink crimp connections.

I already had some toggle switch holes in my dash from original switches (didn't want to patch my dash), otherwise I would have put everything on Contoura III switch style. I use this toggle switches to control bilge pump operations (off, automatic/float, manual) and blower fan (enclosed engine). 

Fuse Block:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CLS96RD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Reset circuits: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BKG1WQT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery selector switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00144B6AE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power distribution block: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THLYYH3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Example of heat shrink terminals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GB2JWVT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Toggle switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9MD5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Contoura III Switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y87W54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Contoura USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHYC88A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Contoura mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMFK3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

None of these links are affiliated I promise lol.