Its Liberty #5,  first one they didn't cut up.  Circle race boat from day 1.

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WOW.... Nice ride..Notice the clearance issue's I have under my headers. What guage aluminum did you use.

So your saying 2 sizes won't do much..

When I step on the gas the motor will rev up then hesitate for a second then continue to rev up..It's a holley 4150 with stock size jets and powervalve.. Fresh rebuild... bought boat in Vegas and live in  ogden, ut.. 4500 ft.. Where am i off in the jetting... Primary??? Secondary??? Powervalve??? Help    Other than that it runs on a dime.. Plugs are a nice chocolate color...

I may be wrong here but how about your fuel filter... carb could be just on the edge of running lean and when you open it up it basically runs out of fuel... you did say it did it even with a known properly operating carb... Hows the fuel pressure.. Did you say you have a fuel pressure guage...   ... I'm really thinking filter or worn out pump... Just my op.. good luck

Here's my quick opinion... My old boat had a built 454... .30 over, forged 427 crank, big valve heads, 454 rods, 427 KB pistons, Comp cams Magnun 280 cam. Compresion was 10.5 to 1.. Mallory dual point dizzy, Edelbrock performer RPM manifold and a Edelbrock 750cfm carb... It would turn 5500 rpm all day long with an A Impeller in a fresh pump... Based on the jet pump as being a sort of dyno this put my HP number in the low 500 range.. So there ya go more food for thought... I now have a Holley on the new boat but that Edelbrock was bullet proof and easy to tune....

Go Nordic.. Yea baby... Swap that olds for a blue oval and then you'll be talkin.. 

ok here is the deal... When she is hot she won't start sometimes.. after alot of head ache and a little trouble shooting with the multimeter my dad and me have found i'm only getting about 8-9 volts at the coil in the start mode... Once she is running it drops down to 6 like it's supposed to.. So I'm assuming the resister is still good... I have made a little jumper wire with som clips and when she won't start i just hook it from the coil + plus side to the 12 volt side on the resister and she will fire right up.. So am I looking for a loose wire?? Which I can't find or is it something mechanical? My dad swears up and down it is a loose wire.. Im just not sure about that though... Only happens when it is hot..

Oh and I could be wrong about the 6v at run and 8-9 at start.. it could be the other way around.. But it is still wrong I should have a full12v on the start circuit....    I have a mallory unilite dizzy with an Accel coil... 76' nordic with a 460

Don't know what it used to run for temp wise but the rise in air temp along with water temps will make it run hotter... I would try adjusting your gate valve just a bit.. shouldn't take but a 1\2 to 1 full turn... Set it so you are about 185-190 at idle.. makes your cruise temp around 160-170...This is only assuming you don't have any mechanical issues...

I have a pcv valve on mine... It should make a difference in lowering your crank pressure when you step on it.. You need to get a pcv valve grommet that goes in your valve cover... It will replace one of your breathers... Next get a pcv valve.   Then get some hose... should be 3/8 I think... This will go from the pcv valve to the bottom of one of your carbs.. There should be a port there some where... If all else fails take your boat to autozone or checkers and have them go outside and they should be able to show you what you need..

Hey guys might want to check your state law for where they actually measure the Db's.. Here in Utah they measure at 1 meter from the rear of the transom at idle.. Even with baffles i'm almost 110 db.. not even close to 90 db's.. Some places bother us some don't.. Hope that will help..

Ok this might be a dumb ? Not even sure it's in the right spot  :screwy:Is there any structural need for the foam in the bow or is it just there to help float your boat for a bit if it sinks.. And does that stuff weigh alot and are there any benefits to removing it...
Thx guys, Andrew