Ford seems to have so many different heads, I never know which is what.   I guess I will keep looking.  This has already been a 3 year engine build that I expect will go on for another 3 or 4.    Hell I gotta find a boat to put it in too.

Opinions are like butts, everyone has one.   But to paint with a broad brush, all Olds heads flow poorly if you are looking for high performance.  They were never (well almost never) engineered to make big rpm or hp numbers.  They were made to move Grandpa and his 4000 lb. couch down the road with no drama.  Yes you can port them but it is lipstick on a pig.

The exception is the "C" head.  This is the one that often came on the 442 Cutlass.  It is really the only factory head that works well, and the drag race and resto car guys will pay enough for a good set to buy you some Ebrocks.  However if you get serious about buying aluminum heads for an Olds, there are better choices than Edelbrock for sure.  But they cost.

Unless you are spending a ton of money on hopping up your Olds, don't spend too much time worrying about which factory iron head to use.  I have usually been told to avoid "J" for low compression/smog design.   But if you can save your "C" or find another, they are the way to go.   Again, these opinions are worth exactly what you paid for them LOL

And the faster you go, the less you can turn and the less you can stop.   

Jack & diet Pepsi.        Big freaking tall ones.


Just finished my third one and now getting set to build another and head out back to the "cigar" lounge.   

I am looking for a place to clean some motorcycle hubs in preparation for painting.  They are cast magnesium.  I also have some bare rims that I need polished.  Anyone have any leads anywhere in the I.E. that won't tear stuff up?

It says $4500 OBO in the title.   But he isn't trying very hard.   

Count me in.  Just pick a date and post it up. 

I think that it is well worth noting, that this is the most drama SCJB has had since Rod and the great dildo caper of 2009.   I spend way too much time on several recreational websites, and this one by far has the best people.  Every time someone needs help of advice, or just wants to vent, the outpouring of knowledge and friendly advice is truly amazing.   

Thank God we were able to ditch that Omar guy too   

The best solution would be to not tow at 80 mph.  Duh.   For what your ticket is gonna cost you could fill your tank several times.
If you have a blow out you may be spending substantially more than that.  If the drive is 300 miles the difference between 60 mph average and 75 is one hour.  If the drive is 200 miles the difference is about 40 minutes.

Have you considered a wrap?   I think most guys will guarantee it for 4 or 5 years.   Just a thought.

We have had 5 floods caused by pinholes in the copper piping.  Most of the neighbors have had too.  The soil is terribly acidic.  Both my next door neighbor and I have Allstate and we have both (on or about the 3rd time) tried to get them to partially pay for a repipe, but they won't do it.  They are always great about paying for the damage even after all this and neither one of us has had a rate increase.  We do have plumbers on speed dial however.

Putting in the external drain lines you can make the holes bigger than you will ever need.

Not sure if it is funny or sad to see how this has changed from a memorial event to a big party with no real mention of the man.  I would bet that fully 50% of last year's attendees had no idea.