26
The No Wake Zone / Big HP Engine FAIL
« on: June 16, 2010, 11:08:38 AM »
[yt=425,350]kCsSVLZ6wCI[/yt]
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27
Miscellaneous / Spam / Auction: Brand New 5/8" Anchor Line
« on: June 16, 2010, 07:57:53 AM »
Brand New 5/8" Anchor Line
5/8" Braided Nylon Anchor Line with thimble. Ends are sewn back into the rope, twine sealed and burnt closed. 25' long.
More Information
5/8" Braided Nylon Anchor Line with thimble. Ends are sewn back into the rope, twine sealed and burnt closed. 25' long.
More Information
28
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Auction: XRP -8 Dual Feed Fuel Line
« on: June 16, 2010, 07:55:26 AM »29
The No Wake Zone / My Special Song for Nordie
« on: June 16, 2010, 07:49:25 AM »
Saw this and it made me think of you pumpkin! 
[yt=425,350]MG-bDvns1Z8[/yt]
[yt=425,350]MG-bDvns1Z8[/yt]
30
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Professionally made anchor line
« on: June 09, 2010, 06:17:27 PM »
1/2" or 5/8" braided nylon with thimble embedded. 20' long. Ends are sewn into themselves and stitched off. Never been used.
$40
$40
31
The No Wake Zone / ENGINE DOCTOR! DAVE~HELP
« on: June 07, 2010, 09:05:58 PM »
Check your PM's Shorty! 
32
Whats Cookin? / Internal Meat Temperatures
« on: June 06, 2010, 08:09:52 PM »
If you haven't yet, go buy yourself an instant read thermometer. You'll thank me later.
This is the one I have, it's about $15 at any kitchen store (Bed Bath & Beyond, Kohl's, Target, etc)
It's got all the temps pre programmed into it, pretty sweet deal. DO NOT leave it in the meat while it's cooking.
Beef And Lamb Internal Temperature Chart
Roasts, Steaks & Chops
Rare 120 to 125 degrees F center is bright red, pinkish toward the exterior portion
Medium Rare 130 to 135 degrees F center is very pink, slightly brown toward the exterior portion
Medium 140 to 145 degrees F center is light pink, outer portion is brown
Medium Well 150 to 155 degrees F not pink
Well Done 160 degrees F and above meat is uniformly brown throughout
Ground Meat
160 to 165 degrees F no longer pink but uniformly brown throughout
Poultry (Chicken, Turkey & Duck)
165 degrees F cook until juices run clear, no pink meat
Pork Roasts, Steaks & Chops
Medium 140 to 145 degrees F pale pink center
Well Done 160 degrees F and above meat is uniform in color throughout, no pink meat
Pork ribs, pork shoulders, and beef brisket
160 degrees F and above medium to well done
This is the one I have, it's about $15 at any kitchen store (Bed Bath & Beyond, Kohl's, Target, etc)
It's got all the temps pre programmed into it, pretty sweet deal. DO NOT leave it in the meat while it's cooking.
Beef And Lamb Internal Temperature Chart
Roasts, Steaks & Chops
Rare 120 to 125 degrees F center is bright red, pinkish toward the exterior portion
Medium Rare 130 to 135 degrees F center is very pink, slightly brown toward the exterior portion
Medium 140 to 145 degrees F center is light pink, outer portion is brown
Medium Well 150 to 155 degrees F not pink
Well Done 160 degrees F and above meat is uniformly brown throughout
Ground Meat
160 to 165 degrees F no longer pink but uniformly brown throughout
Poultry (Chicken, Turkey & Duck)
165 degrees F cook until juices run clear, no pink meat
Pork Roasts, Steaks & Chops
Medium 140 to 145 degrees F pale pink center
Well Done 160 degrees F and above meat is uniform in color throughout, no pink meat
Pork ribs, pork shoulders, and beef brisket
160 degrees F and above medium to well done
33
Whats Cookin? / Tri Tip
« on: June 06, 2010, 07:56:53 PM »
Here's my recipe for tri-tip. I'm sure anyone that's had it can vouch for it's flavor.
This is for each tri tip, generally in the 3-4 pound range.
1 Tri Tip- 3-4 pounds
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon chili powder, or cayenne pepper
Trim all but about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the fat off the tri tip. Coat with olive oil. Set it aside for 30 mins. Mix up the spices, rub the tri tip liberally with the spice mix. Wrap in foil and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 30 mins, the longer the better. Get your grill ready while it's sitting. If you're using a gas grill, get it up to the 400* range, turn one of the burners to low, as low as it can get. If you're using charcoal or wood, once the coals just go grey, and there's still little flames dancing around, you're good. Spread the coals to one side of the bbq.
Put the meat on the hottest part of the grill, fat side up. Sear for 2 minutes, flip and repeat. Once this is done, find your cold spot on the grill, either over the burner you turned way down, or the side of the bbq with the least amount of coals. Place the meat, fat side up on the cold spot. Close the lid. Walk away. (Don't be tempted to lift the lid, unless there's a fire from the fat dripping, if so, adjust the meat so it doesn't drip on that spot) For tri tips on the smaller side of the scale, allow it to cook about 20-25 mins, flip and close the lid again for another 20-25 minutes. For larger ones, go about 25-30 minutes each side.
Adjust the time for your level of doneness.
Eat up.
This is for each tri tip, generally in the 3-4 pound range.
1 Tri Tip- 3-4 pounds
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon chili powder, or cayenne pepper
Trim all but about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the fat off the tri tip. Coat with olive oil. Set it aside for 30 mins. Mix up the spices, rub the tri tip liberally with the spice mix. Wrap in foil and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 30 mins, the longer the better. Get your grill ready while it's sitting. If you're using a gas grill, get it up to the 400* range, turn one of the burners to low, as low as it can get. If you're using charcoal or wood, once the coals just go grey, and there's still little flames dancing around, you're good. Spread the coals to one side of the bbq.
Put the meat on the hottest part of the grill, fat side up. Sear for 2 minutes, flip and repeat. Once this is done, find your cold spot on the grill, either over the burner you turned way down, or the side of the bbq with the least amount of coals. Place the meat, fat side up on the cold spot. Close the lid. Walk away. (Don't be tempted to lift the lid, unless there's a fire from the fat dripping, if so, adjust the meat so it doesn't drip on that spot) For tri tips on the smaller side of the scale, allow it to cook about 20-25 mins, flip and close the lid again for another 20-25 minutes. For larger ones, go about 25-30 minutes each side.
Adjust the time for your level of doneness.
Eat up.
34
Whats Cookin? / Potato Love
« on: June 06, 2010, 07:43:32 PM »
I make a killer potato salad that is a hit with everyone that tries it. Bob, this is for you.
INGREDIENTS
5 lbs small to medium red potatoes
1 bunch green onions
1 lb thick sliced bacon (get it from the butcher block)
1 20 oz bottle HIDDEN VALLEY RANCH (don't use any other brand)
2 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
Tapatio or Tabasco about 8-10 shakes
How to make it:
Wash the potatoes, leave the skins on them and cut them into about 1" squares, bring some lightly salted water to a boil and put them in, cover. Cook potatoes about 8-12 mins or until a little less cooked than fork tender. While the spuds are boiling, cut the bacon into small pieces, about 1" or 2" wide, cook the bacon over medium high heat. Finely chop the green onions and garlic.
Once the bacon is cooked, drain off all but about 1 or 2 tablespoons of the fat, save this for later. Remove the potatoes from the heat and get them out of the hot water. Let them cool for a while, until cool to the touch. Grab a big bowl, preferably one with a lid. Put 1/2 of the potatoes in the bowl, add 1/2 of the other ingredients, stir to combine. Add in the rest of the potatoes and ingredients, stir to combine.
You can eat it warm, cool or cold. Put the leftovers in the bowl with the lid on it and put it in the fridge.
Enjoy
INGREDIENTS
5 lbs small to medium red potatoes
1 bunch green onions
1 lb thick sliced bacon (get it from the butcher block)
1 20 oz bottle HIDDEN VALLEY RANCH (don't use any other brand)
2 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
Tapatio or Tabasco about 8-10 shakes
How to make it:
Wash the potatoes, leave the skins on them and cut them into about 1" squares, bring some lightly salted water to a boil and put them in, cover. Cook potatoes about 8-12 mins or until a little less cooked than fork tender. While the spuds are boiling, cut the bacon into small pieces, about 1" or 2" wide, cook the bacon over medium high heat. Finely chop the green onions and garlic.
Once the bacon is cooked, drain off all but about 1 or 2 tablespoons of the fat, save this for later. Remove the potatoes from the heat and get them out of the hot water. Let them cool for a while, until cool to the touch. Grab a big bowl, preferably one with a lid. Put 1/2 of the potatoes in the bowl, add 1/2 of the other ingredients, stir to combine. Add in the rest of the potatoes and ingredients, stir to combine.
You can eat it warm, cool or cold. Put the leftovers in the bowl with the lid on it and put it in the fridge.
Enjoy
35
Whats Cookin? / BBQ Brisket
« on: June 06, 2010, 05:00:19 PM »
BBQ Beef Brisket:
I usually get an 8-10 pound brisket, one side is going to be fatty, DON'T cut this fat off. Trust me.
Brisket Rub-
Ingredients
3 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons table salt
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 tablespoon granulated white sugar
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 teaspoon cayenne powder
2 teaspoons mustard powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons paprika
Lightly coat the brisket with olive oil on all sides. Once it's nice and slick, generously sprinkle, shake, spoon or dump the rub on it (best to do this in a pan, or a big bowl)
Rub the first layer of rub into the meat. Turn and get all sides coated. Once you've got it rubbed. Coat with more rub. Cover with foil, and let is sit at least 1 hour,
this will give you time get your BBQ going.
If you have any rub left over, mix it with some apple juice for a mopping sauce later.
Or, you can buy Stubb's mopping sauce at most grocery stores. Stubb's is the shit when it comes to BBQ.
I have a little Brinkmann smoker, about $40 at Lowe's. You can use your gas or charcoal grill as well, just remember, low, indirect heat (250* MAX) and time, lots of time.
Once your flame is stable, place the brisket, fat side up, on the grill, add any wood chips, close the lid, go open a beer and relax.
I usually figure 45mins per pound of meat. This recipe will work for ribs, pork shoulder, brisket, tri tip, chicken & fish.
If you're going to use wood chips for smoke, don't worry about soaking them in water, does nothing but make your heat less stable. After the first hour of cooking, it's as smokey
as it's going to get, no need to keep adding wood, it's just going to go to waste.
About an hour into cooking, lift the lid and mop some sauce onto the meat. Do this again about once an hour.
I usually get an 8-10 pound brisket, one side is going to be fatty, DON'T cut this fat off. Trust me.
Brisket Rub-
Ingredients
3 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons table salt
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 tablespoon granulated white sugar
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 teaspoon cayenne powder
2 teaspoons mustard powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons paprika
Lightly coat the brisket with olive oil on all sides. Once it's nice and slick, generously sprinkle, shake, spoon or dump the rub on it (best to do this in a pan, or a big bowl)
Rub the first layer of rub into the meat. Turn and get all sides coated. Once you've got it rubbed. Coat with more rub. Cover with foil, and let is sit at least 1 hour,
this will give you time get your BBQ going.
If you have any rub left over, mix it with some apple juice for a mopping sauce later.
Or, you can buy Stubb's mopping sauce at most grocery stores. Stubb's is the shit when it comes to BBQ.
I have a little Brinkmann smoker, about $40 at Lowe's. You can use your gas or charcoal grill as well, just remember, low, indirect heat (250* MAX) and time, lots of time.
Once your flame is stable, place the brisket, fat side up, on the grill, add any wood chips, close the lid, go open a beer and relax.
I usually figure 45mins per pound of meat. This recipe will work for ribs, pork shoulder, brisket, tri tip, chicken & fish.
If you're going to use wood chips for smoke, don't worry about soaking them in water, does nothing but make your heat less stable. After the first hour of cooking, it's as smokey
as it's going to get, no need to keep adding wood, it's just going to go to waste.
About an hour into cooking, lift the lid and mop some sauce onto the meat. Do this again about once an hour.
36
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / More valve lash adjustment info
« on: June 06, 2010, 04:21:22 PM »
From Century Performance:
Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Quick and Accurate Way:
First, view this little chart below for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it. There is more of an explanation below the chart. For other engines you will use the firing order that matches your engine to create a similar chart. This chart is based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)
Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
+
with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
+
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
+
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
+
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
+
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
+
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
+
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
+
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve
Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
You will notice that this is the same procedure and sequence as the intake valves listed above. Only now you are adjusting ONLY the exhaust valves the same way.
+ with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
+ with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
+ with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
+ with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
+ with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
+ with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
+ with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
+ with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve
Now I'll Provide an Explanation:
What you see above is adjustments being made on "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left).
Looking at the chart below you will see that #1 is opposite #6, and vice-verse, on through the firing order. This holds true for both intake and exhaust valves.
This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines.
1 « - » 6
8 « - » 5
4 « - » 7
3 « - » 2
If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the camshaft where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. This position is required for each valve before you attempt to perform adjustments. The chart and procedure above ensures that the lifter is on the backside of the cam lobe for each valve. When you were previously instructed by the auto shop teach or service manual to position each cylinder at TDC (piston at Top Dead Center) you will find often times that this is not the correct procedure to obtain the proper lash setting. View the image at right and you can see the required position of the cam lobe to be able to correctly adjust the valve lash.
You want to be sure that the lifter is positioned on the heel of the cam lobe which will guarantee that the valve you are adjusting is fully closed. Any other position and your adjustments will not be accurate.
What about the actual adjustment procedure?
Hydraulic Cams:
Let's get to the actual wrench turning ... how many of you read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter camshaft, you adjust it down to where there is pushrod resistance (zero lash) and then turn it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn? Well, if you did this, you more than likely have the valves not closing all the way!
Neutral and with Pre-LoadThe typical hydraulic lifter requires an adjustment that is roughly half the available travel of the plunger. If an average hydraulic lifter plunger has a range of 0.060" of travel from fully compressed to its static height with the pushrod seat against the retaining ring, half of that distance will be 0.030". This means that you adjust valves by the depth that the plunger in the lifter drops. If adjusted too tight (the plunger fully compressed) the valves do not close all the way, and if too loose the pushrod seat will rattle and do not open properly, damaging the lifter. How do you get to a 0.030" plunger depth? On newly assembled engines I will actually use a dial indicator and measure the distance of travel on the new lifter. On an engine in the car this is a bit different, and harder to do..
I have two ways that I use to adjust hydraulic lifters. One uses the "clean" method with the engine turned off, and the other is the messy way with the engine running and squirting oil everywhere.
Engine "OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:
Warm the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and then quickly remove the valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure by using the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder (see the above chart). In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers spinning the pushrod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn).
What is 1/4 turn? (see image below)
what constitutes 1/4 of a turn?Imagine the hands on a clock. You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 o'clock positions as well as the numbers in-between those. If you start with your wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to the 6:00 position you have just made 1/2 turn. Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be 1/4 turn.
Now, you will do this for all the intake valves and then do the exhaust valves the same way.
PRECAUTION: If you have an older high mileage engine which the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of the lifter body), you can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in the hydraulic lifter to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly adjust the valves by this procedure and they are still not correct, you probably have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace the Lifters -= or =- adjust the valves using the "HOT" running method described below.
Engine RUNNING Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:
So you really like messes? This has to be one of the most miserable maintenance procedures if you do not properly plan ahead.
Some helpful hints:
* Adjust only one side of the engine at a time.
* Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.
* Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time.
* Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier.
Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations addressed, start the engine and allow it to warm up. Begin to loosen one of the rocker arm adjusting nuts. You should hear the valvetrain just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the plunger depth (lifter preload). Continue this procedure on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.
IMPORTANT WARNING: If you make a mess, PLEASE use environmentally conscious methods to clean up any oil spills and then check your oil level. You would be surprised at how quickly, and how much oil can spill when performing valve adjustments with the engine running.
Solid Lifter Adjustment:
First warm the engine to operating temperature (about 15-minutes) and then quickly remove the valve covers. Follow the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder. In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench).
Based upon your cam card (cam specs provided by the camshaft manufacturer) you should know what the valve lash setting should be in thousandths of an inch. Let's say that your recommended valve lash setting is .022". Get out the .022" feeler gauge and place it between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm tip. Snug down the rocker "just" until you begin to fell resistance. You should be sliding the feeler gauge back and forth gently on stock style slotted rocker arms, or gently side-to-side if using roller tip rockers. The valve lash setting should not be tight ... the feeling should be about the same as putting a table knife through a stick of cold butter. Not too hard, not too soft. Hopefully you are using "positive-lock" rocker arm retention fasteners instead of just cheap pinched rocker nuts or Nylox. If using rocker nuts your job is done, go to the next valve. If using positive-locks, hold the body of the lock in place with a box end or open end wrench (there are special tools for this available) and then tighten the Allen set screw in the center of the posi-lock.
NOTE: In most cases the Allen set screw will make a slight "click" when it is tight.
Compensating for a Cold Engine When Adjusting the Valve Lash
When installing a new camshaft, your engine will be cold. The problem is that the provided lash specifications are for an engine that has been running long enough to be at normal operating temperatures. So, what are you to do? There is a standard correction factor that can be used to get you close to the required settings. You must now consider the material alloys of the engine parts, because the thermal expansion of these components affect the valve lash in different ways. Therefore the correction factor used for your lash setting will depend upon whether the cylinder heads and block are made out of cast iron or aluminum.
Take the "hot" setting provided to you in the cam manufacturer's catalog or from the cam card that came with your camshaft. Use the figures below to alter the original lash specifications to get a "cold" lash setting.
o Using iron block and iron heads, add .002"
o Using iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006"
o Using both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012"
Remember this correction adjustment is only approximation, and it is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of your engine After the engine has been properly warmed up to normal operating temperatures you must go back and reset all the valves to the specified "hot" valve lash settings.
Using Valve Lash to Help Tune Your Engine
Most people do not realize that you can make subtle performance improvements by opening or closing the recommended lash settings.
The intake and exhaust valves cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up. Therefore, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, provide slightly more lift (valve opening), and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, due to this slight increase of duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, provide slightly lift less, and close sooner. Now your engine sees a smaller cam with slightly less actual duration and lift.
You can use this tuning method to experiment with what the engine responds to, then keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine it is not recommend to increase the amount of lash by more than +0.004" from the recommended setting. Nor is reducing the lash by more than -0.008" recommended.
The common gains that people see will be that by reducing the lash will increase top end (upper RPM power) horsepower, and increasing the lash can improve low end torque and acceleration.
Closing Remarks:
* As mentioned above, you can change the power band a bit on an engine using a solid lifter camshaft by varying valve lash settings. A looser lash setting increases the low-end power of the engine where a tighter lash increases top-end power. Also, be careful because the valve lash is the "Cooling Time" that the valve needs on each cycle. If you have too little, or no lash, you take a chance of burning the valves.
* Using roller rocker arms dramatically increases valve guide life, increases horsepower and also maintains better valve lash settings. Use them when you can! Shaft style rockers are best (less deflection). Stainless steel rockers provide less "over the valve weight", which is GOOD. Aluminum, though less expensive will deflect more and increase the actual weight over the valve stem. The added weight may not seem critical to you, but this is considered rotational weight, which slows down all the components related to it.
* Additionally, too loose a valve lash setting can damage the valve stem and increase possibility of the roller rocker tips failing. If using OEM style stamped steel rocker arms you could fracture the arm or gall the fulcrum.
* Engine materials, engine operating RPM, and valvetrain deflection contribute to varying valve lash settings. The higher the RPM, the cheaper the parts you use and the different types of materials contribute to sooner need for valve lash adjustments. (By the way, while you are in there ... test your valve spring pressures).
* There is FREE horsepower when using a Roller Cam ... if you can afford it, do it. Plus, when using a roller cam, you can change camshafts without the need to change lifters, which is mandatory with Hydraulic or Solid "tappet" cams.
Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Quick and Accurate Way:
First, view this little chart below for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it. There is more of an explanation below the chart. For other engines you will use the firing order that matches your engine to create a similar chart. This chart is based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)
Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
+
with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
+
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
+
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
+
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
+
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
+
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
+
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
+
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve
Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
You will notice that this is the same procedure and sequence as the intake valves listed above. Only now you are adjusting ONLY the exhaust valves the same way.
+ with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
+ with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
+ with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
+ with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
+ with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
+ with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
+ with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
+ with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve
Now I'll Provide an Explanation:
What you see above is adjustments being made on "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left).
Looking at the chart below you will see that #1 is opposite #6, and vice-verse, on through the firing order. This holds true for both intake and exhaust valves.
This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines.
1 « - » 6
8 « - » 5
4 « - » 7
3 « - » 2
If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the camshaft where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. This position is required for each valve before you attempt to perform adjustments. The chart and procedure above ensures that the lifter is on the backside of the cam lobe for each valve. When you were previously instructed by the auto shop teach or service manual to position each cylinder at TDC (piston at Top Dead Center) you will find often times that this is not the correct procedure to obtain the proper lash setting. View the image at right and you can see the required position of the cam lobe to be able to correctly adjust the valve lash.
You want to be sure that the lifter is positioned on the heel of the cam lobe which will guarantee that the valve you are adjusting is fully closed. Any other position and your adjustments will not be accurate.
What about the actual adjustment procedure?
Hydraulic Cams:
Let's get to the actual wrench turning ... how many of you read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter camshaft, you adjust it down to where there is pushrod resistance (zero lash) and then turn it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn? Well, if you did this, you more than likely have the valves not closing all the way!
Neutral and with Pre-LoadThe typical hydraulic lifter requires an adjustment that is roughly half the available travel of the plunger. If an average hydraulic lifter plunger has a range of 0.060" of travel from fully compressed to its static height with the pushrod seat against the retaining ring, half of that distance will be 0.030". This means that you adjust valves by the depth that the plunger in the lifter drops. If adjusted too tight (the plunger fully compressed) the valves do not close all the way, and if too loose the pushrod seat will rattle and do not open properly, damaging the lifter. How do you get to a 0.030" plunger depth? On newly assembled engines I will actually use a dial indicator and measure the distance of travel on the new lifter. On an engine in the car this is a bit different, and harder to do..
I have two ways that I use to adjust hydraulic lifters. One uses the "clean" method with the engine turned off, and the other is the messy way with the engine running and squirting oil everywhere.
Engine "OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:
Warm the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and then quickly remove the valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure by using the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder (see the above chart). In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers spinning the pushrod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn).
What is 1/4 turn? (see image below)
what constitutes 1/4 of a turn?Imagine the hands on a clock. You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 o'clock positions as well as the numbers in-between those. If you start with your wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to the 6:00 position you have just made 1/2 turn. Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be 1/4 turn.
Now, you will do this for all the intake valves and then do the exhaust valves the same way.
PRECAUTION: If you have an older high mileage engine which the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of the lifter body), you can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in the hydraulic lifter to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly adjust the valves by this procedure and they are still not correct, you probably have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace the Lifters -= or =- adjust the valves using the "HOT" running method described below.
Engine RUNNING Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:
So you really like messes? This has to be one of the most miserable maintenance procedures if you do not properly plan ahead.
Some helpful hints:
* Adjust only one side of the engine at a time.
* Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.
* Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time.
* Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier.
Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations addressed, start the engine and allow it to warm up. Begin to loosen one of the rocker arm adjusting nuts. You should hear the valvetrain just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the plunger depth (lifter preload). Continue this procedure on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.
IMPORTANT WARNING: If you make a mess, PLEASE use environmentally conscious methods to clean up any oil spills and then check your oil level. You would be surprised at how quickly, and how much oil can spill when performing valve adjustments with the engine running.
Solid Lifter Adjustment:
First warm the engine to operating temperature (about 15-minutes) and then quickly remove the valve covers. Follow the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder. In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench).
Based upon your cam card (cam specs provided by the camshaft manufacturer) you should know what the valve lash setting should be in thousandths of an inch. Let's say that your recommended valve lash setting is .022". Get out the .022" feeler gauge and place it between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm tip. Snug down the rocker "just" until you begin to fell resistance. You should be sliding the feeler gauge back and forth gently on stock style slotted rocker arms, or gently side-to-side if using roller tip rockers. The valve lash setting should not be tight ... the feeling should be about the same as putting a table knife through a stick of cold butter. Not too hard, not too soft. Hopefully you are using "positive-lock" rocker arm retention fasteners instead of just cheap pinched rocker nuts or Nylox. If using rocker nuts your job is done, go to the next valve. If using positive-locks, hold the body of the lock in place with a box end or open end wrench (there are special tools for this available) and then tighten the Allen set screw in the center of the posi-lock.
NOTE: In most cases the Allen set screw will make a slight "click" when it is tight.
Compensating for a Cold Engine When Adjusting the Valve Lash
When installing a new camshaft, your engine will be cold. The problem is that the provided lash specifications are for an engine that has been running long enough to be at normal operating temperatures. So, what are you to do? There is a standard correction factor that can be used to get you close to the required settings. You must now consider the material alloys of the engine parts, because the thermal expansion of these components affect the valve lash in different ways. Therefore the correction factor used for your lash setting will depend upon whether the cylinder heads and block are made out of cast iron or aluminum.
Take the "hot" setting provided to you in the cam manufacturer's catalog or from the cam card that came with your camshaft. Use the figures below to alter the original lash specifications to get a "cold" lash setting.
o Using iron block and iron heads, add .002"
o Using iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006"
o Using both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012"
Remember this correction adjustment is only approximation, and it is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of your engine After the engine has been properly warmed up to normal operating temperatures you must go back and reset all the valves to the specified "hot" valve lash settings.
Using Valve Lash to Help Tune Your Engine
Most people do not realize that you can make subtle performance improvements by opening or closing the recommended lash settings.
The intake and exhaust valves cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up. Therefore, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, provide slightly more lift (valve opening), and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, due to this slight increase of duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, provide slightly lift less, and close sooner. Now your engine sees a smaller cam with slightly less actual duration and lift.
You can use this tuning method to experiment with what the engine responds to, then keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine it is not recommend to increase the amount of lash by more than +0.004" from the recommended setting. Nor is reducing the lash by more than -0.008" recommended.
The common gains that people see will be that by reducing the lash will increase top end (upper RPM power) horsepower, and increasing the lash can improve low end torque and acceleration.
Closing Remarks:
* As mentioned above, you can change the power band a bit on an engine using a solid lifter camshaft by varying valve lash settings. A looser lash setting increases the low-end power of the engine where a tighter lash increases top-end power. Also, be careful because the valve lash is the "Cooling Time" that the valve needs on each cycle. If you have too little, or no lash, you take a chance of burning the valves.
* Using roller rocker arms dramatically increases valve guide life, increases horsepower and also maintains better valve lash settings. Use them when you can! Shaft style rockers are best (less deflection). Stainless steel rockers provide less "over the valve weight", which is GOOD. Aluminum, though less expensive will deflect more and increase the actual weight over the valve stem. The added weight may not seem critical to you, but this is considered rotational weight, which slows down all the components related to it.
* Additionally, too loose a valve lash setting can damage the valve stem and increase possibility of the roller rocker tips failing. If using OEM style stamped steel rocker arms you could fracture the arm or gall the fulcrum.
* Engine materials, engine operating RPM, and valvetrain deflection contribute to varying valve lash settings. The higher the RPM, the cheaper the parts you use and the different types of materials contribute to sooner need for valve lash adjustments. (By the way, while you are in there ... test your valve spring pressures).
* There is FREE horsepower when using a Roller Cam ... if you can afford it, do it. Plus, when using a roller cam, you can change camshafts without the need to change lifters, which is mandatory with Hydraulic or Solid "tappet" cams.
37
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Solid Lifter Valve Lash Adjustment
« on: June 06, 2010, 04:16:08 PM »
Seems like someone is always asking for this info, so I thought I'd post it here.
Thank you Crane Cams!
Mechanical Lifters
All pushrod engines using mechanical (solid) lifters, or mechanical roller lifters, must have an adjustable valve train so that precise adjustment for "Valve Lash" can be made to match the camshaft's requirements. Valve lash is the running clearance that exists between the tip of the valve stem and the valves mating surface of the rocker arm. (It is expressed in the Crane Catalog as "Valve Lash" and on the camshaft specification card as "Valve Setting". Both terms mean the same thing.)
The amount of valve lash can vary between camshaft profile designs, being as small as .010" on some and as great as .035" on others. It is important to use the recommended valve lash when you first test the performance of the engine. You must also be concerned with thermal expansion of the engine components. (This is especially true if using aluminum alloy cylinder heads, or block.)
For this reason, Crane (and most other cam mfgrs) requires that the valve lash be set with the engine "Hot" on all pushrod engines using mechanical lifters. This will insure that the minimum required clearance (valve lash) is maintained throughout the engine's operating temperature range.
Compensating for a Cold Engine when Adjusting Valve Lash
When installing a new cam, the engine will be cold but the lash specifications are for a hot engine. What are you to do? There is a correction factor that can be used to get close. We mentioned that the alloy of the engine parts can be affected by thermal expansion in different ways, therefore the amount of correction factor to the lash setting depends on whether the cylinder heads and block are made out of cast iron or aluminum.
You can take the "hot" setting given to you in the catalog or cam specification card and alter it by the following amount to get a "cold" lash setting.
With iron block and iron heads, add .002"
With iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006".
With both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012".
Remember this correction adjustment is approximate and is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of the engine. After the engine is warmed up to its proper operating temperature range, you must go back and reset all the valves to the proper "hot" valve lash settings.
Setting Valve Lash on Mechanical Cams
All the valves must be set individually and only when the lifter is properly located on the base circle of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. How will you know when the valve you are adjusting is in the proper position with the lifter on the base circle of the cam? This can be accomplished by watching the movement of the valves.
1. When the engine is hot (at operating temperature) remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder that you are going to adjust.
2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, so the intake is the one we can now adjust.)
3. Use a feeler gauge, set to the correct valve lash, and place it between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm. Adjust until you arrive at the proper setting and lock the adjuster in place.
4. After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake valve almost closed, we are sure that the exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described before in step 3.
5. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, so move to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. In the future you may find shortcuts to this method, but it still remains the best way to do the job correctly.
Using Valve Lash to Help Tune the Engine
The engine only responds to the actual movement of the valves. Since the valve cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, lift higher, and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, because of a slight increase of actual running duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, lift less, and close sooner.
This shows the engine a smaller cam with slightly less actual running duration and lift. You can use this method on a trial basis to see what the engine responds to and keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh on the other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine we do not recommend increasing the amount of hot lash by more than +.004" from the recommended setting. Nor do we recommend decreasing the hot lash by more than -.008".
Thank you Crane Cams!
Mechanical Lifters
All pushrod engines using mechanical (solid) lifters, or mechanical roller lifters, must have an adjustable valve train so that precise adjustment for "Valve Lash" can be made to match the camshaft's requirements. Valve lash is the running clearance that exists between the tip of the valve stem and the valves mating surface of the rocker arm. (It is expressed in the Crane Catalog as "Valve Lash" and on the camshaft specification card as "Valve Setting". Both terms mean the same thing.)
The amount of valve lash can vary between camshaft profile designs, being as small as .010" on some and as great as .035" on others. It is important to use the recommended valve lash when you first test the performance of the engine. You must also be concerned with thermal expansion of the engine components. (This is especially true if using aluminum alloy cylinder heads, or block.)
For this reason, Crane (and most other cam mfgrs) requires that the valve lash be set with the engine "Hot" on all pushrod engines using mechanical lifters. This will insure that the minimum required clearance (valve lash) is maintained throughout the engine's operating temperature range.
Compensating for a Cold Engine when Adjusting Valve Lash
When installing a new cam, the engine will be cold but the lash specifications are for a hot engine. What are you to do? There is a correction factor that can be used to get close. We mentioned that the alloy of the engine parts can be affected by thermal expansion in different ways, therefore the amount of correction factor to the lash setting depends on whether the cylinder heads and block are made out of cast iron or aluminum.
You can take the "hot" setting given to you in the catalog or cam specification card and alter it by the following amount to get a "cold" lash setting.
With iron block and iron heads, add .002"
With iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006".
With both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012".
Remember this correction adjustment is approximate and is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of the engine. After the engine is warmed up to its proper operating temperature range, you must go back and reset all the valves to the proper "hot" valve lash settings.
Setting Valve Lash on Mechanical Cams
All the valves must be set individually and only when the lifter is properly located on the base circle of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. How will you know when the valve you are adjusting is in the proper position with the lifter on the base circle of the cam? This can be accomplished by watching the movement of the valves.
1. When the engine is hot (at operating temperature) remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder that you are going to adjust.
2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, so the intake is the one we can now adjust.)
3. Use a feeler gauge, set to the correct valve lash, and place it between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm. Adjust until you arrive at the proper setting and lock the adjuster in place.
4. After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake valve almost closed, we are sure that the exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described before in step 3.
5. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, so move to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. In the future you may find shortcuts to this method, but it still remains the best way to do the job correctly.
Using Valve Lash to Help Tune the Engine
The engine only responds to the actual movement of the valves. Since the valve cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, lift higher, and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, because of a slight increase of actual running duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, lift less, and close sooner.
This shows the engine a smaller cam with slightly less actual running duration and lift. You can use this method on a trial basis to see what the engine responds to and keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh on the other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine we do not recommend increasing the amount of hot lash by more than +.004" from the recommended setting. Nor do we recommend decreasing the hot lash by more than -.008".
38
The No Wake Zone / Bitchin' 32 Coupe
« on: June 04, 2010, 09:47:01 AM »
I know it's not a boat, but some of you might enjoy this. It's a very bitchin' 32 coupe that I helped my friends Rudy & Paul do a full restoration on (back to it's 1954 racing days). Paul sold it shortly after we finished it, and apparently it's for sale again. Hope y'all like it. The car's got tons of bonafide history.
http://www.canepacollection.com/detail-1932-ford-3_window_competition-coupe-used-5461051.html
http://www.canepacollection.com/detail-1932-ford-3_window_competition-coupe-used-5461051.html
39
The No Wake Zone / Let the games begin
« on: May 28, 2010, 03:13:44 PM »
Camp Cyclone
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G
40
WarZone / Shorty and Nancy Boy are back!
« on: May 28, 2010, 11:18:24 AM »
I am so happy I installed those webcams at Dave's shop, it's amazing what I see.
[yt=425,350]ISj7Pr9MOFk[/yt]
[yt=425,350]ISj7Pr9MOFk[/yt]
41
Jet Pumps / Driveshaft Angle Setup
« on: May 27, 2010, 07:35:49 AM »
I know this article is not specifically for jet boats, BUT it's from one of the best drive line companies on the West Coast. The principle is still the same.
It's a PDF file. Here's the direct link: http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFile.asp?RID=5&TID=28&FN=PDF
I'll also attach it.
It's a PDF file. Here's the direct link: http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFile.asp?RID=5&TID=28&FN=PDF
I'll also attach it.
42
The No Wake Zone / Ken Nelson "Challenger" Fundraiser Auction
« on: May 25, 2010, 07:22:07 AM »
Fellas, by now I'm sure you all know about Challenger and his unfortunate situation. This truly is a tragedy. I have set up an auction to raise money for him and his family in their time of need. IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WANT TO DONATE: GOODS, SERVICES, PARTS, CASH. Feel free to PM me and we'll add it to this auction. In addition to this auction, the family has set up an account to receive donations, here is that info:
LUCAS NELSON MEMORIAL FUND
Account# 2353621
Altura Credit Union
P.O. Box 908
Riverside, CA 92502-9957
AUCTION ENDS AT 12:00 AM PST JUNE 1 2010. ALL SHIPPING IS ON THE BUYER.
ITEM STARTING BID
1. Mini Chopper- 6.5 HP Engine, runs approx 40 MPH. Thank you Rivertard! $500.00
2. Complete BARE fiberglass interior, consisting of 2 bucket seats and 1 bench seat $500.00
3. Dooley style polished stainless steel scoop for 4150 carb. Recently polished to a mirror shine. $100.00
4. SCJB Flex Fit hats, your choice of color size and style. $25.00 EA
follow this link to hat sizing & style info: http://www.socaljetboats.com/the-no-wake-zone/hat-orders-take-2!/
5. Place Diverter stringer mount handle, good shape. $75.00
6. CJ222 intake loader grate. Fits Berkeley 12JA-G intakes. Works killer. $50.00
7. Custom framed print of CJ boats from Parker Spring Regatta 2010 by Sky Skier (Denny) from The Old Photo Company $150.00
http://www.theoldphotocompany.com/
8. Brand new Teleflex 43BC cable 12' long. Thanks Nate! $50.00
9. Brand new pair of polarized Oakley Square Whisker sunglasses, new in box. Thank you Flytime! $150.00
10. Mallory BBF dual point distributor, works great. Thank you Ray! (Items 10-14 from Ray) $50.00
11. New in box SBC Mahle 8.5:1 forged blower pistons. 4.155 bore. $200.00
12. BBF ski tow. Needs to be cleaned up or powder coated. $20.00
13. Vintage M/T BBC aluminum finned valve covers. Excellent shape, need a bead blast or polish. $75.00
14. BBF Edelbrock Performer 460 intake manifold, no stripped threads, good flanges. $100.00
15. Brand new Comp Cams #34-227-460 Ford hyd. camshaft 494 lift 268 duration. Thanks Nancy Boy. $75.00
16. Brand new in box Teleflex throttle cable (3300) Thank you JRork! $25.00
17. 1976 Phantom Jet Boat Hull.Hull only, NO TRAILER, clear title. Thanks Honda 1 $150.00
Boat is 1/4 stringer, needs floor put back in, Berkeley intake still in bottom, steering, gauges.
email me for pics
18. Andy Herbert owner of a bitchin V-Drive has offered up $500 in shop services @ his Nor Cal boat shop. $500.00
Here's a pic I found of his personal boat @ CFW
19. Quick Olds has offered up a set of Olds "B" heads.Clean, ready to run. $250.00
20. From Brad's cousin Kyle, courtesy of http://www.cyclegiant.com/ $75.00 EA
Cycle Giant will match any moneyfrom the sale of these helmets. Shipping included for these items.
Winning bidder can choose size XS-2XLThere are 2 helmets, both are:
HJC CS-MX BLIZZARD MC-5 SILVER MOTOCROSS / SNOWCROSS OFFROAD HELMET
21. Jet Boat Performance http://www.jetboatperformance.biz/ has donated $100 in shop/store credit $75.00
Thank you Tom, Rhonda & Josh!!!
A big thanks to everyone that has donated and/or bid on stuff. Keep those wallets open!
LUCAS NELSON MEMORIAL FUND
Account# 2353621
Altura Credit Union
P.O. Box 908
Riverside, CA 92502-9957
AUCTION ENDS AT 12:00 AM PST JUNE 1 2010. ALL SHIPPING IS ON THE BUYER.
ITEM STARTING BID
1. Mini Chopper- 6.5 HP Engine, runs approx 40 MPH. Thank you Rivertard! $500.00
2. Complete BARE fiberglass interior, consisting of 2 bucket seats and 1 bench seat $500.00
3. Dooley style polished stainless steel scoop for 4150 carb. Recently polished to a mirror shine. $100.00
4. SCJB Flex Fit hats, your choice of color size and style. $25.00 EA
follow this link to hat sizing & style info: http://www.socaljetboats.com/the-no-wake-zone/hat-orders-take-2!/
5. Place Diverter stringer mount handle, good shape. $75.00
6. CJ222 intake loader grate. Fits Berkeley 12JA-G intakes. Works killer. $50.00
7. Custom framed print of CJ boats from Parker Spring Regatta 2010 by Sky Skier (Denny) from The Old Photo Company $150.00
http://www.theoldphotocompany.com/
8. Brand new Teleflex 43BC cable 12' long. Thanks Nate! $50.00
9. Brand new pair of polarized Oakley Square Whisker sunglasses, new in box. Thank you Flytime! $150.00
10. Mallory BBF dual point distributor, works great. Thank you Ray! (Items 10-14 from Ray) $50.00
11. New in box SBC Mahle 8.5:1 forged blower pistons. 4.155 bore. $200.00
12. BBF ski tow. Needs to be cleaned up or powder coated. $20.00
13. Vintage M/T BBC aluminum finned valve covers. Excellent shape, need a bead blast or polish. $75.00
14. BBF Edelbrock Performer 460 intake manifold, no stripped threads, good flanges. $100.00
15. Brand new Comp Cams #34-227-460 Ford hyd. camshaft 494 lift 268 duration. Thanks Nancy Boy. $75.00
16. Brand new in box Teleflex throttle cable (3300) Thank you JRork! $25.00
17. 1976 Phantom Jet Boat Hull.Hull only, NO TRAILER, clear title. Thanks Honda 1 $150.00
Boat is 1/4 stringer, needs floor put back in, Berkeley intake still in bottom, steering, gauges.
email me for pics
18. Andy Herbert owner of a bitchin V-Drive has offered up $500 in shop services @ his Nor Cal boat shop. $500.00
Here's a pic I found of his personal boat @ CFW
19. Quick Olds has offered up a set of Olds "B" heads.Clean, ready to run. $250.00
20. From Brad's cousin Kyle, courtesy of http://www.cyclegiant.com/ $75.00 EA
Cycle Giant will match any moneyfrom the sale of these helmets. Shipping included for these items.
Winning bidder can choose size XS-2XLThere are 2 helmets, both are:
HJC CS-MX BLIZZARD MC-5 SILVER MOTOCROSS / SNOWCROSS OFFROAD HELMET
21. Jet Boat Performance http://www.jetboatperformance.biz/ has donated $100 in shop/store credit $75.00
Thank you Tom, Rhonda & Josh!!!
A big thanks to everyone that has donated and/or bid on stuff. Keep those wallets open!
44
The No Wake Zone / Tapatalk
« on: May 19, 2010, 08:43:29 PM »
Testing
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G using Tapatalk
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G using Tapatalk
46
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Killer 489 BBC Short Block
« on: May 08, 2010, 01:00:45 PM »
Listing this for a friend, if you have any questions, CALL HIM
If I had the scratch for this shit, it'd be in my garage already.
$2500 OBO
Complete short block fully machined ready to assemble 489ci LS7 bored as a virgin .30. Everything new, fully polished Scat 4-1/4 stroker crank, fully worked by Velasco Billet cranks, and matched I-Beam Scat rods never taken out of the box. 9-1 J&E Racing pistons still in the box with pins,locks and rings. Brand new custom Billet roller cam by American cams, which I also had profiled by another shop to check it, also with roller lifters. all the machine work was done by L and R Racing Engines in Santa Fe Springs. The block its a beautiful LS7 4 bolt. These parts with the right heads, intake and carb should easily make a 800hp on pump gas.
Call me anytime 310-404-4203 or 562-425-8186. I'm in Long Beach Ca
Thanks Jimmy Prince.
If I had the scratch for this shit, it'd be in my garage already.
$2500 OBO
Complete short block fully machined ready to assemble 489ci LS7 bored as a virgin .30. Everything new, fully polished Scat 4-1/4 stroker crank, fully worked by Velasco Billet cranks, and matched I-Beam Scat rods never taken out of the box. 9-1 J&E Racing pistons still in the box with pins,locks and rings. Brand new custom Billet roller cam by American cams, which I also had profiled by another shop to check it, also with roller lifters. all the machine work was done by L and R Racing Engines in Santa Fe Springs. The block its a beautiful LS7 4 bolt. These parts with the right heads, intake and carb should easily make a 800hp on pump gas.
Call me anytime 310-404-4203 or 562-425-8186. I'm in Long Beach Ca
Thanks Jimmy Prince.
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WTB / WTB: Matched Pair of 660 Carbs
« on: May 07, 2010, 10:29:23 AM »
No junk, looking for freshly rebuilt or new only. Don't need linkage, just the carbs. Whaddya got?
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Miscellaneous / Spam / For Sale
« on: May 05, 2010, 08:04:34 PM »
One slice of semi warm, not yet eaten, cheese pizza. PM me for payment info:
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Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / XRP -8 Dual feed fuel line
« on: May 02, 2010, 12:27:33 PM »
Brand new, never installed, has gauge port, no gauge. For 4150 Holley. $65 $50 plus the ride.
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Events / Father's Day Float
« on: April 28, 2010, 07:37:38 AM »
It's getting to be that time boys. The annual Father's Day Float is coming up, we'll be at Big River the weekend of June 18-20 2010. I'm beyond ready for this trip. I have a room with 2 beds @ the Big River Inn and I need a roommate for the weekend! Anyone going that doesn't have a room, or doesn't mind splitting one?
Big River Roll Call
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See you there fellas.
Big River Roll Call
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See you there fellas.