'79 Nordic bubble deck

« **Reply #200 on:** May 10, 2015, 01:20:54 PM »

Stringer are setup now I have to do a little more sanding and then round my corners, and poky the bottom edges and the transom and it's ready for the rest of the glass

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« **Reply #201 on:** May 10, 2015, 01:21:48 PM »

Here are the pictures

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« **Reply #202 on:** May 11, 2015, 10:20:01 AM »

That's going to be a nice boat when done. Nice job looks good.

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« **Reply #203 on:** May 11, 2015, 10:29:04 AM »

Quote from: Bigblockchevy1691 on May 11, 2015, 10:20:01 AM

That's going to be a nice boat when done. Nice job looks good.

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Thanks bud

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« **Reply #204 on:** May 11, 2015, 09:01:37 PM »

Quote from: JARVIS on May 09, 2015, 06:54:38 PM

3/8 round over bit should work....its better than 1/8 or so (maybe less) that comes on the wood from mill....

Got a router and got the corners rounded on the stringers. I used the 3/8 that was recommended. Getting closer to being able to lay glass. I will be getting my engine and jet tomorrow. Closer and closer to getting it wet!!!

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« **Reply #205 on:** May 11, 2015, 10:00:36 PM »

Quote from: Mrblueeyesnick on May 11, 2015, 09:01:37 PM

Got a router and got the corners rounded on the stringers. I used the 3/8 that was recommended. Getting closer to being able to lay glass. I will be getting my engine and jet tomorrow. Closer and closer to getting it wet!!!

Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR

I hate to be the nay sayer.... Good luck getting air bubbles out. With the groves in that wood, it's going to be a big pain in the ass!!!!!!!!!! There was a reason why wes/we told you to use kiln dryed Douglass fur. Good luck with it though. Maybe you can sand all those notches out?...

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« **Reply #206 on:** May 11, 2015, 11:42:54 PM »

X2

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« **Reply #207 on:** May 12, 2015, 12:09:23 AM »

if i was in that position, id either mix cabosil with resin.....or use duraglass to fill those notches. sand smooth, along with the edge just routed over. sanding the edge is just to remove any sharp lines router may have left....sometimes it happens...not to contour wood. if glass snags anywhere its a potential air pocket/bubble. sucks....but at least you have a chance to rectify it. good luck man.

« **Reply #208 on:** May 12, 2015, 12:19:14 AM »

Vacuum bag it. Not hard to do, not expensive. Pick up a frog and some PVA mold release and get er done.

« **Reply #209 on:** May 12, 2015, 12:38:40 AM »

Quote from: GT Jets on May 12, 2015, 12:19:14 AM

Vacuum bag it. Not hard to do, not expensive. Pick up a frog and some PVA mold release and get er done.

Ok what's a frog? Do you have a link to show me what your explaining?

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« **Reply #210 on:** May 12, 2015, 12:40:23 AM »

Quote from: JARVIS on May 12, 2015, 12:09:23 AM

if i was in that position, id either mix cabosil with resin.....or use duraglass to fill those notches. sand smooth, along with the edge just routed over. sanding the edge is just to remove any sharp lines router may have left....sometimes it happens...not to contour wood. if glass snags anywhere its a potential air pocket/bubble. sucks....but at least you have a chance to rectify it. good luck man.

I was wondering if I could fill them with poky using aerosil and sand it.

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« **Reply #211 on:** May 12, 2015, 01:04:36 AM »

Poky usually has chopped fibers in it. Basically fiberglass Mat chopped up into short strips....which comes in different lengths. Cabosil looks like powder. Milled fibers....same thing. You can mix it up same way you'd make poky. cabosil just thickens reason to a bondo like putty... not much more strength than straight resin. Chopped fibers adds strength. But in this case...your trying to fill holes, notches so that glass has less chance to form air pockets. Just my opinion... I'd mix up some resin, cabosil... or use duraglass. I would say you can find duraglass where you got your glass supplies. Duraglass is like bondo... only uses fiberglass as thickener so it's much tougher than bondo. Has a cream hardener...same as bondo. Just be careful with it cause it can kick before quick like hot batch of bondo ....wasting product. Baby steps....rather than fill whole stringer in one pass. I'd say either method would work.

« **Reply #212 on:** May 12, 2015, 06:56:19 AM »

Is that treated wood ?

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« **Reply #213 on:** May 12, 2015, 07:34:08 AM »

Quote from: Mrblueeyesnick on May 11, 2015, 09:01:37 PM

Got a router and got the corners rounded on the stringers. I used the 3/8 that was recommended. Getting closer to being able to lay glass. I will be getting my engine and jet tomorrow. Closer and closer to getting it wet!!!

Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR

Remember that the treated lumber will have moisture in it this could be a bigger problem then the holes.

« **Reply #214 on:** May 12, 2015, 08:02:45 AM »

Plus oils they release that will make the glass pop lose

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« **Reply #215 on:** May 12, 2015, 08:05:17 AM »

I always use true 2x4 or 1x4 I pay to have them ball milled cypress,maple.popular

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« **Reply #216 on:** May 12, 2015, 05:26:59 PM »

Ok so I got the engine and the jet back. Got to hear it run at Bostick and sounds great. Hopefully the boat will be ready to go soon.

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« **Reply #217 on:** May 12, 2015, 05:30:50 PM »

Quote from: lifted250 on May 12, 2015, 08:02:45 AM

Plus oils they release that will make the glass pop lose

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Yeah...... That is true too.

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« **Reply #218 on:** May 12, 2015, 05:31:22 PM »

Hey bud you still need a router? I'm in Beaumont

« **Reply #219 on:** May 12, 2015, 06:50:00 PM »

Quote from: steves86ta on May 12, 2015, 05:31:22 PM

Hey bud you still need a router? I'm in Beaumont

No I got one but thanks Steve.

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« **Reply #220 on:** May 12, 2015, 08:04:37 PM »

Quote from: Mrblueeyesnick on May 12, 2015, 12:38:40 AM

Ok what's a frog? Do you have a link to show me what your explaining?

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A frog is s super fancy name for a fitting for attaching a vacuum to on the plastic sheeting.

You use plastic sheeting and PVA mold release with some buffering materials and pull a good vacuum on it which pulls all the air or of the area being glassed. It comes out amazing.

GT

« **Reply #221 on:** May 12, 2015, 08:05:56 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on May 12, 2015, 08:04:37 PM

A frog is s super fancy name for a fitting for attaching a vacuum to on the plastic sheeting.

You use plastic sheeting and PVA mold release with some buffering materials and pull a good vacuum on it which pulls all the air or of the area being glassed. It comes out amazing.

GT

Sweet I look into that, thanks gt

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« **Reply #222 on:** May 12, 2015, 10:20:45 PM »

While I will agree....results would great...uniform...and just about bubble free....I do feel easier said than done. I've only seen it done with a vacuum pump. Not sure how well a shop vac would work. Plus...making sure a seal is created so it pulls vacuum. Perhaps there's a backyard way of doing this...if so, I'd love to see/learn. If your curious... look up vacuum bagging on you tube. Tons of it there...usually done to make carbon fiber parts....but isn't limited to carbon. Concept would be the same. You wanna suck air out creating a negative pressure so plastic sheet presses against batting material, which is used to soak up excess resin,then discarded... against the form. In this case, the stringer. If done properly creates the best ratio of resin to glass which gives the most strength possible with the least amount of weight. Hence the common use in carbon fiber.
Perhaps the ol' Mighty one (

) will jump in....(had to....Glenn)

« **Reply #223 on:** May 12, 2015, 11:48:29 PM »

Going to be straight up, I have only vacuum bagged with Epoxy, never Poly. It worked best for me when doing thick I/O transoms.

Stringers would be the same exact process with a hell of a lot more tuck tape LOL... Once you have the materials all laid out, other than being messy as hell, it takes a lot of the artistic requirement out of it..

The best video I can remember is the one with the carbon fiber mast.... I think it was a "How It's Made" show or something....

GT

« **Reply #224 on:** May 13, 2015, 09:24:28 AM »

Gt, did you use a vacuum pump? Or...?
what did you use for batting or the whatever the material is underneath the plastic sheet?

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