19' Rogers Project

« **Reply #325 on:** April 22, 2009, 09:36:06 PM »

Did you get your seats done locally?

« **Reply #326 on:** April 22, 2009, 09:43:42 PM »

No, A-1 Marine in Fullerton, Raul is the owner. If you're interested i'll get you his #

« **Reply #327 on:** April 22, 2009, 10:14:32 PM »

As of right now I'm looking at local places, there's a couple cheap places in esco

« **Reply #328 on:** October 25, 2009, 06:58:02 PM »

Decided to finally drop in another fin. This one a little further forward than the original, which is staying. The boat pushed in the corners, Harold suggested putting another fin in.
After taking a couple of measurements, the fin would of course drop right in the middle of a cross member on the trailer. No big deal I still need the fin. Tear the carpet back, cut the subfloor and cut the bottom. The big surprise is that this hull has a race layup, it's only 3/8 - 7/16 thick at the keel. I've never set a fin and now that I find out it's not 5/8 - 3/4 thick like I was expecting. It makes me a little nervous. Thinking of having R&D set it.

« **Reply #329 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:08:15 PM »

The bottom in my boat is closer to 5/16" thick, I have never seen a glass bottom in a hull over 1/2", unless of course they have balsa coring....Have you ever seen anyone put cross blades on the fins?

How you going to handle the cross member? Move it or notch it? just curious....

GT

« **Reply #330 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:21:32 PM »

My uncle had told me that his 73 Rogers had a 5/8 bottom (lake boat) and that Roger had a lighter layup schedule for race boats. If you look at the tape the glass is 3/8 without the gel. My Advantage was 11/16 were they cutout for the intake. Maybe this is standard, I expected the bottom to thicker. Anyone else cut in a fin lately.

« **Reply #331 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:26:34 PM »

Quote from: 76 Bonneville on October 25, 2009, 07:21:32 PM

My uncle had told me that his 73 Rogers had a 5/8 bottom (lake boat) and that Roger had a lighter layup schedule for race boats. If you look at the tape the glass is 3/8 without the gel. My Advantage was 11/16 were they cutout for the intake. Maybe this is standard, I expected the bottom to thicker. Anmyone else cut in a fin lately.

The glass at or near the intake area is typically three time thicker than the rest of the bottom..

11/16", wholly crap, that hull would weigh in at "OMG" #....

My Renegade had a bottom that was 1/4" and the deck felt like you could poke your finger through it.

GT

« **Reply #332 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:28:33 PM »

As far as the trailer goes. I'll probably cut a 10" section out of it and move it forward 6-8 ". If I need to I can always run the cross member out to the rails.

« **Reply #333 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:31:03 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on October 25, 2009, 07:26:34 PM

The glass at or near the intake area is typically three time thicker than the rest of the bottom..

11/16", wholly crap, that hull would weigh in at "OMG" #....

My Renegade had a bottom that was 1/4" and the deck felt like you could poke your finger through it.

GT

I was there the day they cut out the bottom and the transom for the pump. Took both pieces home with me, made a clock with the transom piece.

« **Reply #334 on:** October 26, 2009, 12:02:39 PM »

What bolts should I use to set the fin. The large headed SS bolts like the ones you use for the loader?

« **Reply #335 on:** October 26, 2009, 01:21:01 PM »

thought everything was supposed to be grade 8 black oxide...honestly after seeing some ss bolts come out of a loader i would never run them...ss bolts lack tensile strength...im sure the fin will take just as much stress if not more then the loader...i vote black oxide grade 8

« **Reply #336 on:** October 26, 2009, 01:48:39 PM »

Quote from: Nordie on October 26, 2009, 01:21:01 PM

I vote black oxide grade 8

Exactly, Ron you should have your loader through bolted with grade 8 hardware, your fin should match.

« **Reply #337 on:** October 26, 2009, 03:15:58 PM »

Dude you have done a awesome job for not being so mechanically inclined! Your boat looks sweet and so does the trailer! I hope you got to enjoy it this past summer quite a bit. You have given me some great ideas to do on my 65 beaver. Thanks for the great thread and good luck with the rest!

« **Reply #338 on:** October 26, 2009, 06:10:32 PM »

I used SS fastners with split washers and nylock nuts.
Since the screws are up through the bottom of the hull and they are going to be poxy-puttied in, using a screw that WILL rust away, I thought would be a bad idea .
My fin also used 8 screws so I think that would make it a little safer regardless of material.
It held even when I got a little sideways

As a side note, when I stripped the hull upon getting rid of it, The fin was the biggest pain in ass to remove.
You figure they go in the same way as an intake and they use SS screws $:-\$

-beerjet-

« **Reply #339 on:** October 26, 2009, 06:28:01 PM »

Stainless steel!

« **Reply #340 on:** October 26, 2009, 07:22:27 PM »

I was thinking SS also because of the rust. The other fin has SS bolts and has been there for over 30 years.

Got it off the trailer today.
Now I can mod the trailer and work on the boat.

This thing will never get out of the project thread.

« **Reply #341 on:** October 26, 2009, 09:48:24 PM »

Quote from: 65BEAVER on October 26, 2009, 03:15:58 PM

Dude you have done a awesome job for not being so mechanically inclined! Your boat looks sweet and so does the trailer! I hope you got to enjoy it this past summer quite a bit. You have given me some great ideas to do on my 65 beaver. Thanks for the great thread and good luck with the rest!

Thanks Beav, and welcome to the site.
You'll have to get hooked up with the rest of the Vegas boys, if you have'nt already.

« **Reply #342 on:** November 01, 2009, 06:16:03 PM »

Alright the trailer is done, again.
The fin should fit with room to spare.
A little cutting, a little welding and some paint.
Had to buy a 10' stick of the 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing, but its done and its stout.
Now back to this fin dealio, it scares me a bit.

« **Reply #343 on:** November 01, 2009, 06:25:45 PM »

What's scary, the hole is already cut in the bottom. For me, that's the scary part

Just curious, could be taken as constructive criticism, or me poking my opinion where it don't belong, but...

why didn't you just move the crossmember forward? I think it would have been less work in the long run, possibly a lot stronger too.

Nice work, just seems like a lot of work for the task... $:-\$

Don't mind me, I am just another F-ing Monday morning quarterback.

GT

« **Reply #344 on:** November 01, 2009, 06:39:10 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on November 01, 2009, 06:25:45 PM

What's scary, the hole is already cut in the bottom. For me, that's the scary part

Just curious, could be taken as constructive criticism, or me poking my opinion where it don't belong, but...

why didn't you just move the crossmember forward? I think it would have been less work in the long run, possibly a lot stronger too.

Nice work, just seems like a lot of work for the task... $:-\$

Don't mind me, I am just another F-ing Monday morning quarterback.

GT

Good point glen.
The way it was explained to me is that part of the integrity of the trailer is where the crossmemebers are placed .
If anything I would put some steel angled towards the cutout as a brace .
Good work Ron !

-beerjet-

« **Reply #345 on:** November 01, 2009, 06:55:12 PM »

Omar, you're right, unfortunately the integrity was compromised when the cut was made without the cross member being solidly braced, I'm sure it'll be fine, a little bracing wouldn't kill it...

« **Reply #346 on:** November 01, 2009, 07:03:22 PM »

Beautiful Ron !

« **Reply #347 on:** November 01, 2009, 08:17:21 PM »

I value your opinions and you guys have guided me though some stuff where I had no idea what I was doing. Nothing wrong with a little monday morning QB ing.

Thought about a moving the cross member, but did not want to relocate the bunks and the height of the pads would change. Outside bunks would need to be longer.
Or add the new cross member and tie it into the existing one that was cut. It would still require some bracing. You're right though Glenn, I probably have 6 hrs in that mod.

Originally was going to add a couple 45's to give some more support to the inside corners. After welding this thing up, it was solid. I started out with the idea that I was just going to run a couple pieces up with 90's and cap the cross member seperatly. Decided to make the cap part of the piece and used 30* and 60* angles to stiffen it up. It made a huge differance in rigidity and gave me 6 welds on each side to the cross member instead of 3. Also beveled the crap out of these pieces to make sure I had plenty of weld and penetration.

Skip your right, I should have braced it up before I cut it to make sure it didn't move on me. Did take some measurements and I think the bunks held things in position pretty well.
I do have the clearance to put a strap accross the bottom of the cross member to tie them together, probably wouldn't hurt.

Thanks for your input, it always helps to look at things with a different perspective. I'll be keeping my eye on this to make sure there are no cracks developing.

« **Reply #348 on:** November 04, 2009, 10:57:42 AM »

Quote from: 76 Bonneville on November 01, 2009, 06:16:03 PM

Alright the trailer is done, again.
The fin should fit with room to spare.
A little cutting, a little welding and some paint.
Had to buy a 10' stick of the 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing, but its done and its stout.
Now back to this fin dealio, it scares me a bit.

Hope you got a jig for that piece Ron, I need one

« **Reply #349 on:** November 04, 2009, 08:33:43 PM »

Quote from: pw_Tony on November 04, 2009, 10:57:42 AM

Hope you got a jig for that piece Ron, I need one

No jig but plenty of steel.

Put the boat back on the trailer yesterday and finished the fin cut out.
Still not sure if I should set it or take it up to the pro's.

sandeggo

76 Bonneville

sandeggo

76 Bonneville

GT Jets

76 Bonneville

GT Jets

76 Bonneville

76 Bonneville

76 Bonneville

Nordie

Luckie Stiff

65BEAVER

beerjet

MADSKILLZ

76 Bonneville

76 Bonneville

76 Bonneville

GT Jets

beerjet

Luckie Stiff

jet boat performance

76 Bonneville

pw_Tony

76 Bonneville