Where is that? It looks like my buddy Brian's Eliminator in the background.

Here's a front view

sounds f***kn mean!!! 👍👍


"RTCP"

Thanks bud! You can hear it hit the rev limiter in the video. It's set at 4500 right now, but hits it Damn near instantly

It sounded really snappy. Does it have a stock cam?

Nope It's a pretty healthy cam.

It's also 11.5:1 with 10.19dcr If I remember correctly.

235/242 .621/.592 on 111.

From Brian Tooley racing

Sounds great Steve! Keep it up man.

It didn't sound very stock so that makes sense. You get the oil filler adapter yet?

Not yet man. I'll let you know when I get it. Thanks again!

Sounds good Steve


Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR

Thanks nick how's yours coming

It didn't sound very stock so that makes sense. You get the oil filler adapter yet?

got the adapter, thanks again man! I owe you a beer

One of the things that make putting an LS into well anything is the MSD Controller. Literally all you need is a Cam Sensor and Crank Sensor. Thats it.... There are a few different boxes for different year LS Engines (24x or 58x reluctor wheels) but other than that. It is simply a plug and play deal...

Yes, you have some more wiring to contend with i.e. the coil harnesses, a map sensor harness (If you run one), the cam and crank harnesses. But what is cool is with the box you get all of the features you dont expect. Like a Rev limiter. Fully customizable timing tables, even a 2 step and launch retard (if going in a car). You can go as far as programming the timing based on the Manifold vacuum and what not.

And when i say plug and play... i mean literally that. Hook the box up. Plug in the sensors and hit the key. No distributor to make sure its right, no timing to dick with. My first fire was literally a half rotation and it lit off and idled (high but thats because the carb was set high).

My only gripe with the box is that MSD decided to use a serial cable for the computer connection. WHAT THE HELL MSD ITS 2015! Nothing i had at home has a serial connection. So i bought a USB to serial cable... yeah no dice either Windows 8 wouldnt let me roll over the driver that was already installed for the usb connection...

So i looked around asked some friends and i ended up finding this dinosaur of a desktop at my GF's house. And it has a serial port. So tonight ill be able to raise the Rev Limiter past the 4500 that its set to. And give it my timing curve... if you can call it that. 16@ idle then 36 at 1800 flat the rest of the way...

With aluminum heads, the awesome combustion chamber designs an LS has, and unlimited cooling you should be able to get away with 11.5 to one and pump gas. An LS3 is 10.7 to one stock and that is designed to loads a low RPM which a jet boat won't really see.

I'd say a retard toggle switch would be a great idea but I'm not sure you will need it. Your cam and testing will determine what will work for ya.

So, since Friday ive been fighting a fuel pressure issue. I plumbed the fuel line in -8 from the pickups, to the separator, -8 from the separator to the pump, -8 from the pump to the regulator and then -6 to the rail. Should work out well and be plenty of fuel.

Well i plumbed the entire fuel system. Ran all the wiring for the pump (40A relay). Go to key up for the first time. (i still had not tested out my wiring harness i made... it worked perfectly woohoo!) Well everything seems to work. I have crank, bilge, fuel pump everything. But the fuel pump will not prime the system. So i pressurize a tank and it starts flowing fuel. But wont stay primed. I tried everything i could think of. Finally i figure it must be the shitty chinese pump i bought.

so i dig around in the tool box and find an old ass holley blue dot i have. I mean this thing is ancient, in my first rogers that i started on. I had bought that sleekcraft for parts (for those that remember) Yeah... it came out of that.  It was so old its back when Holley used to paint the entire motor Baby Blue.  It looked like this:


but i hook it up, and low and behold it works... starts puking fuel almost instantly. So i hook it up to the fuel rail and the gauge pegs, and the carb becomes a gasoline fountain. Well the shitty billet chinese regulator is crap also....

So i find another regulator i have this time a summit brand one. And get the pressure turned down. But the carb (the red one) is still a fountain. So i dick with it and manage to get the fuel level low enough to keep from spewing everywhere. But the needles are so far in that i cant even get the nut to grab any threads. at this point i decided to just rebuild the other 750 i have and run it.

But now the fuel pressure is all over the place, but below 7psi (max where i want it) The pump just cant stay fed. With my one gauge (a liquid filled gauge) it would frequently sit at 0 but the engine would run perfectly fine and not sputter or anything. I narrowed it down to being a bad gauge since two others were reading about 3psi-7psi. At this point i was like must be the pump its old cant be working correctly. So i figured i would buy a rebuild kit and try that before buying a new holley blue pump. (this will arrive today)

Well fast forward to last night all of the above was this last weekend.

I kept thinking about it all day and thought maybe the tank needs to be vented. So when i got home i started messing with it. Took the cap off, no improvement. Put the pump lower in the boat, no improvement. Had an idea, since im running the fuel rail "upside down" and "backwards" i had to drill and tap it for my fuel pressure gauge. Maybe the threads arent deep enough and thats why the gauge is reading oddly. So i put another gauge in the original psi gauge hole... Nope still the same, this time for both gauges.

This entire time ive been running it off of the passenger or right side tank. So i hook it up to the left or driver side tank and bam 5.5 psi and rock solid. Running or not. FYI the summit regulators are noisy as hell.

Now the weird part.... I figure thats fine, so i hook my separator (thank you h20nut21bahner btw) back up and all of the fuel lines so i can start cleaning everything up and tidying the wires/lines up as well. Key on and have low pressure about 2psi until the separator filled up and then back at 5.5psi running off of the left side tank. I switch over to the right side tank and no change in pressure. Shut the key off let the pressure bleed off key up and rock solid 5.5 psi. Let it run for about 35 minutes... Still a rock solid 5.5psi on the right tank. Maybe a piece of debris was stuck? Maybe an air bubble that popped in the separator? I dont know but ill keep an eye on it.

So after all of that, i got the tuning done (see the above post) I started on cleaning up the wiring, hoses, and getting ready for everything to go back together.

Another thing MSD did that drives me up the damn wall, is they put the harness in Plastic Conduit which is fine... but they didnt cover all of the harness. and thats annoying as hell. So last night i went and electrical taped where you could see the bare wires. Along with the wires i added for the temp and oil psi senders.



I still need to get some wire hangers or whatever they are called for the water hoses and get them buttoned down. But its cleaning up nicely.

Im pretty sure this pump is fine so im going to run it. The rebuild kit will be here today, so ill clean it out and put it back together. I went ahead and cleaned up the motor on the pump since i hated the baby blue that was on there. And painted it with some of that Metalcast paint in Blue. I like the way it came out



Today, the rebuild kit for both the pump and a holley regulator i have will be here and i can get that stuff squared away. Then start (hopefully) permanent installation of the pump, lines, and regulator. Then move onto the wiring at the front of the motor. Finish up my steam lines (the line for that will be here today also) and get the bungs welded in the headers.

I got a 1310 drive line from 88carerra it needs to be rebuilt so ill start on that. Its missing the straps for one of the ujoints, and need to replace the ujoints.

I also need to heat and bend the headers up a little bit. But i don't have a torch. My dads work does, so worst case scenario ill pull the headers off (thank god remflex gaskets are reusable) and take them down there. One side only need to bend a little bit, the other side more but should be relatively easy.

then i can re-paint them and mount them up.

then all i need to get this bitch wet will be a PTO and bolts!

You have that much reversion that it pulled water from that close to the end the exhaust?  That doesn't seem right.