SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: philofab on May 01, 2015, 01:11:09 PM
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So, I bought this last night and then a reasonably priced CP hull popped up locally. Seller had it advertised as a "HTM" because they got the same HIN assigned later on. Seems to be a nice hull. Light, good looking, decent pump to start with, rails, and came with tons of parts. Needs completely restored and one side of the hull has a little hook in it. This will be my long term project and get either a BBF or a LSx twin turbo engine.
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How much is the cp
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
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How much is the cp
9K. I'd buy it but I need to cool it on the spending for a while.
http://mohave.craigslist.org/boa/5004883552.html (http://mohave.craigslist.org/boa/5004883552.html)
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Parts for the motor started showing up...
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subbing....
Let me know if those plates i have will work for you. If not, you can use them as a template like i did
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Let me know if those plates i have will work for you. If not, you can use them as a template like i did
My stringers are 24" apart and with my rail kit the plates need to be at least 23" wide. The height seems to be about right but I won't know until I get the engine in the boat for mock up. It looks like there might be some interference between the turbos and the rear transom so I may need to move the engine forward or up a little. The engine has a truck oil pan on it which is really deep too, I'd like a marine style pan that holds extra oil with a flat bottom but I have not seen those made yet.
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Google fabricated ls1 oil pans. I found a few that weren't "marine" but would work out for sure.
Gm also makes a circle track pan.
But the ls3 pan is close to one and holds 8.9 quarts
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I started play with some of the parts I've order to get an idea of how much space I have for intercoolers and such. Ignore the iron heads and filth. It will be getting fresh 317 heads and the bottom end hasn't been gone through yet.
I may have to modify the headers as I'm not sure they will clear the transom. If they do clear it will be close and the heat may damage the fiberglass.
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Since you are remote mounting your coils. Wanna sell me that riser for the oil fill?
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You need it? I don't plan on using it. PM me your shipping address.
I pulled the heads off the engine today. Cylinders are nice, way nicer than they should be with almost 200k on this engine.
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Yes I need one lol. Can't open mine without taking a coil off
That's one of the great things about ls engines. They just plain don't wear. Mine looked brand new inside.
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While all the aluminum parts from the engine are soaking to get the crud off I pulled the pump apart to see whats inside. Found an almost new "A" Berk aluminum impeller. This will have to go away as 700+ hp will most likely destroy it with cavitation.
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I'll take that impeller if your not going to use it mines pretty chewed up.
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I'll take that impeller if your not going to use it mines pretty chewed up.
PM me. I'm not sure what a fair price is. I can ship it to ya.
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PM me. I'm not sure what a fair price is. I can ship it to ya.
where are you located maybe I could come by and pick it up?
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Bullhead City Arizona.
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I sent you a pm
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Took the heads off the LQ4 to inspect and also so I can polish the tops of the pistons. Motor is in good shape. Gotta pull the balancer so I can install a better oil pump, new timing set, new seal, and polish the cover.
Cleaned up the valley cover and valve covers enough to start polishing them and installing AN bungs for the catch can / breather. Originally I was going to buy fabricated valve covers but they won't clear my headers. Going to grind the coil mounts off of these and use them instead.
I plan on building mounts for the coils that bolt on to the bosses on the side of the engine to help keep the coils away from the heat of the headers and try and make it look clean.
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Started working on the valley pan and valve covers. Gotta TIG the holes and imperfections up to get them ready for the polisher.
Also, I found a Youngblood TX-20 hull I may put all of this stuff in.
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Started working on the valley pan and valve covers. Gotta TIG the holes and imperfections up to get them ready for the polisher.
Also, I found a Youngblood TX-20 hull I may put all of this stuff in.
Is there a reason you are keeping with the knock sensors in the cover?
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Is there a reason you are keeping with the knock sensors in the cover?
It's actually a good location for knock sensors and I will need them for the EFI since I plan on running pump gas with meth injection. I know they won't save me but it's a good idea to have them. I am well aware of the water issue they have at that location.
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It's actually a good location for knock sensors and I will need them for the EFI since I plan on running pump gas with meth injection. I know they won't save me but it's a good idea to have them. I am well aware of the water issue they have at that location.
Water issue? I havent heard of one
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The rubber seals/covers above the knock sensor don't work very well and on stock applications they will collect water in the hole until it damages the knock sensor.
GM has issued a TSB (02-06-04-023A) for code PO332 (knock sensor), which may be heard as a mild to severe engine ping usually sounding worse on acceleration. This condition is a result of corrosion on the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more frequent on vehicles that the owner washes the engine compartment.
To correct the Knock sensor problem requires replacement of the rear knock sensor (their is also a front knock sensor, we also recommend replacing) and building a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor.
But hey, It's a boat. It's not like I will ever clean it or it will get wet. ;D The knock sensors are easily relocated if I have issues.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fengine-codes.com%2Fqa%2F%3Fqa%3Dblob%26amp%3Bqa_blobid%3D1729710019963813265&hash=321ddf0b46db24fa94c22967e3039eab2cc99271)
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Well. I bought a new hull yesterday. Should be here in the next couple of hours. 1982 Youngblood TX-20. I'll have to change the name of this thread now.
Also, my Birthday is tomorrow and my buddy David got me a present. New steering wheel for the boat...
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Cool deal, I saw the picture on Instagram and started following you, looks like a fun project
Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR
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Arg. Looks like the pump is moved back but not quite enough to be able to clear a pop off. I'm not sure if I will put one on but I'd like to keep the option open.
Looks like I have a lot of fiberglass work in my future... supports and kick board are rotted out and there are little cracks here and there that need repair. It's a very light hull (I can easily lift the front or back of it). Going to figure out some supports that will stiffen it up without creating stress points.
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So, looks like the kickboard is actually ok, it just needs to be sanded down and reglassed but I'll probably cut it out and make a new one since it's not much more work. The gunnel supports? are gone and will need replacement. Also the keel is really thin and separating from the gunnel support to the intake, the bottom is gouged up like it hit something. Shouldn't be a big deal to fix. Everything in front of the gunnels is solid though. The thing that looks like it will be hardest to fix is the front tie down area, as the trailer is setup weird for this style of hull.
Also, the metal in the trailer is in good shape, I was afraid it would be rusted out since it's from Louisiana. I'm going to order a couple axles and make it a tandem. It needs a new tongue jack, rewired, leds, and fresh bunks.
I am sad someone cut so much of the dash out. That will take some work to repair.
Stringers are super solid. Going to start drilling and doweling them soon.
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I think I am going to cut the boat in half to make it easier to work on...