My ADD Project. Was a Mach1, now a Twin Turbo Youngblood TX20.

« **on:** May 01, 2015, 01:11:09 PM »

So, I bought this last night and then a reasonably priced CP hull popped up locally. Seller had it advertised as a "HTM" because they got the same HIN assigned later on. Seems to be a nice hull. Light, good looking, decent pump to start with, rails, and came with tons of parts. Needs completely restored and one side of the hull has a little hook in it. This will be my long term project and get either a BBF or a LSx twin turbo engine.

« **Reply #1 on:** May 01, 2015, 02:13:47 PM »

How much is the cp

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« **Reply #2 on:** May 01, 2015, 02:22:51 PM »

Quote from: jimpen on May 01, 2015, 02:13:47 PM

How much is the cp

9K. I'd buy it but I need to cool it on the spending for a while.

http://mohave.craigslist.org/boa/5004883552.html

« **Reply #3 on:** May 07, 2015, 02:55:24 PM »

Parts for the motor started showing up...

« **Reply #4 on:** May 07, 2015, 04:33:16 PM »

subbing....
Let me know if those plates i have will work for you. If not, you can use them as a template like i did

« **Reply #5 on:** May 07, 2015, 05:47:01 PM »

Quote from: steves86ta on May 07, 2015, 04:33:16 PM

Let me know if those plates i have will work for you. If not, you can use them as a template like i did

My stringers are 24" apart and with my rail kit the plates need to be at least 23" wide. The height seems to be about right but I won't know until I get the engine in the boat for mock up. It looks like there might be some interference between the turbos and the rear transom so I may need to move the engine forward or up a little. The engine has a truck oil pan on it which is really deep too, I'd like a marine style pan that holds extra oil with a flat bottom but I have not seen those made yet.

« **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:18:26 PM »

Google fabricated ls1 oil pans. I found a few that weren't "marine" but would work out for sure.

Gm also makes a circle track pan.

But the ls3 pan is close to one and holds 8.9 quarts

« **Reply #7 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:22:28 PM »

I started play with some of the parts I've order to get an idea of how much space I have for intercoolers and such. Ignore the iron heads and filth. It will be getting fresh 317 heads and the bottom end hasn't been gone through yet.

I may have to modify the headers as I'm not sure they will clear the transom. If they do clear it will be close and the heat may damage the fiberglass.

« **Reply #8 on:** May 16, 2015, 10:21:10 PM »

Since you are remote mounting your coils. Wanna sell me that riser for the oil fill?

« **Reply #9 on:** May 16, 2015, 10:30:56 PM »

You need it? I don't plan on using it. PM me your shipping address.

I pulled the heads off the engine today. Cylinders are nice, way nicer than they should be with almost 200k on this engine.

« **Reply #10 on:** May 16, 2015, 10:32:34 PM »

Yes I need one lol. Can't open mine without taking a coil off

That's one of the great things about ls engines. They just plain don't wear. Mine looked brand new inside.

« **Reply #11 on:** May 17, 2015, 01:43:59 PM »

While all the aluminum parts from the engine are soaking to get the crud off I pulled the pump apart to see whats inside. Found an almost new "A" Berk aluminum impeller. This will have to go away as 700+ hp will most likely destroy it with cavitation.

« **Reply #12 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:41:37 PM »

I'll take that impeller if your not going to use it mines pretty chewed up.

« **Reply #13 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:58:25 PM »

Quote from: rush1 on May 18, 2015, 01:41:37 PM

I'll take that impeller if your not going to use it mines pretty chewed up.

PM me. I'm not sure what a fair price is. I can ship it to ya.

« **Reply #14 on:** May 18, 2015, 02:56:10 PM »

Quote from: philofab on May 18, 2015, 01:58:25 PM

PM me. I'm not sure what a fair price is. I can ship it to ya.

where are you located maybe I could come by and pick it up?

« **Reply #15 on:** May 18, 2015, 03:06:44 PM »

Bullhead City Arizona.

« **Reply #16 on:** May 18, 2015, 05:36:34 PM »

I sent you a pm

« **Reply #17 on:** May 18, 2015, 07:01:27 PM »

Took the heads off the LQ4 to inspect and also so I can polish the tops of the pistons. Motor is in good shape. Gotta pull the balancer so I can install a better oil pump, new timing set, new seal, and polish the cover.

Cleaned up the valley cover and valve covers enough to start polishing them and installing AN bungs for the catch can / breather. Originally I was going to buy fabricated valve covers but they won't clear my headers. Going to grind the coil mounts off of these and use them instead.

I plan on building mounts for the coils that bolt on to the bosses on the side of the engine to help keep the coils away from the heat of the headers and try and make it look clean.

« **Reply #18 on:** May 19, 2015, 01:16:58 PM »

Started working on the valley pan and valve covers. Gotta TIG the holes and imperfections up to get them ready for the polisher.

Also, I found a Youngblood TX-20 hull I may put all of this stuff in.

« **Reply #19 on:** May 19, 2015, 03:01:51 PM »

Quote from: philofab on May 19, 2015, 01:16:58 PM

Started working on the valley pan and valve covers. Gotta TIG the holes and imperfections up to get them ready for the polisher.

Also, I found a Youngblood TX-20 hull I may put all of this stuff in.

Is there a reason you are keeping with the knock sensors in the cover?

« **Reply #20 on:** May 19, 2015, 03:36:40 PM »

Quote from: steves86ta on May 19, 2015, 03:01:51 PM

Is there a reason you are keeping with the knock sensors in the cover?

It's actually a good location for knock sensors and I will need them for the EFI since I plan on running pump gas with meth injection. I know they won't save me but it's a good idea to have them. I am well aware of the water issue they have at that location.

« **Reply #21 on:** May 19, 2015, 04:02:54 PM »

Quote from: philofab on May 19, 2015, 03:36:40 PM

It's actually a good location for knock sensors and I will need them for the EFI since I plan on running pump gas with meth injection. I know they won't save me but it's a good idea to have them. I am well aware of the water issue they have at that location.

Water issue? I havent heard of one

« **Reply #22 on:** May 19, 2015, 04:32:27 PM »

The rubber seals/covers above the knock sensor don't work very well and on stock applications they will collect water in the hole until it damages the knock sensor.

GM has issued a TSB (02-06-04-023A) for code PO332 (knock sensor), which may be heard as a mild to severe engine ping usually sounding worse on acceleration. This condition is a result of corrosion on the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more frequent on vehicles that the owner washes the engine compartment.

To correct the Knock sensor problem requires replacement of the rear knock sensor (their is also a front knock sensor, we also recommend replacing) and building a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor.

But hey, It's a boat. It's not like I will ever clean it or it will get wet.

The knock sensors are easily relocated if I have issues.

« **Reply #23 on:** May 22, 2015, 11:30:11 AM »

Well. I bought a new hull yesterday. Should be here in the next couple of hours. 1982 Youngblood TX-20. I'll have to change the name of this thread now.

Also, my Birthday is tomorrow and my buddy David got me a present. New steering wheel for the boat...

« **Reply #24 on:** May 22, 2015, 02:49:53 PM »

Cool deal, I saw the picture on Instagram and started following you, looks like a fun project

Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR

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