I picked up this boat last month after selling my Sleek. It had a 455 and a stringer that broke loose from the hull. The Olds is gone and after a bunch of help from this forum, the stringers are done.
The goal for this thing is the June meet in Blythe.



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Now that I see your pictures, I would suggest lengthening the drive line and move the engine forward until the flywheel cover is just in front of the intake.  You can then lower the back of the engine to get the drive line inline with the pump shaft.  Rocking the front of the engine down will help bring your front plates closer to the stringers and rails.  Once you get the engine located, install one yoke on the PTO and the other on the pump shaft 3/16" from fully seated.  Measure center-to-center on the u-joint caps and that is the drive line length.  Any drive line shop should be able to whip you up a new 1310 shaft for minimal expense.

Now that I see your pictures, I would suggest lengthening the drive line and move the engine forward until the flywheel cover is just in front of the intake.  You can then lower the back of the engine to get the drive line inline with the pump shaft.  Rocking the front of the engine down will help bring your front plates closer to the stringers and rails.  Once you get the engine located, install one yoke on the PTO and the other on the pump shaft 3/16" from fully seated.  Measure center-to-center on the u-joint caps and that is the drive line length.  Any drive line shop should be able to whip you up a new 1310 shaft for minimal expense.

The picture with the motor plates on the engine was just for fun. When the picture of the driveline was taken the plates were off and the engine was sitting much lower between the stringers.


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Any progress?

I would go just a little further back personally. Like the rear engine plate dead nuts with the front of the intake housing in the hull. I'm speaking of the mounting surface on the block basically, sounds like you went off the rear of the flywheel cover which means it's probably a couple inches further forward than my suggestion because of the thickness of the flywheel cover. Should be somewhere around 22-25" from the transom if you do it the way I'm suggesting depending on your setback.
Basically get your pan where it's not above the intake, but the mounting plate can be right there. If that interferes you can trim it. I'm sure the guys who know more could add to this, I think 24-26" is about where high hp go fast stuff goes, in a more recreational app I would think further back would be OK to a point. How far back is your intake? You still have some keel, it's not cut all the way out the back right? Don't go 100% off what I'm saying but I'd ask flusher or someone about the above ideas


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6" forward of your previous 19-1/4" from the transom; uhm, carry the 1.  25-1/4 is aggressive!

Need to look at the whole package.  How far back will the driver be sitting?  Weight of the driver is a concern.  If you are pushing the driver forward, the engine can't go as far forward.

Where is everything else mounted, battery, fuel tank(s), etc?

With a small block, you have a weight advantage of some 200 lbs.  The engine can go forward.  At the same time, it is making less power, resulting in less thrust and therefore less lift is generated.  I feel like the Sicilian in the Princes Bride.  If the weight is too far forward, the water will break over the bow like a tug boat and too far aft it will porpoise.

I would try Brian's suggestion about putting the oil pan sump just in front of the front intake bolts and possibly trimming the flywheel cover.  Can you get to the 22-1/2" range?

If I move the engine to just in front of the intake, everything clears and I can get the engine and pump shaft in line. With the engine in this position, it is 4" forward from where I started, making the rear block surface 26" from the transom or 24" from the pto to the transom. If I move the engine rearward, I start to get oil pan interference. The flywheel cover hasn't interfered with anything so far, just the oil pan which is about an inch below the flywheel cover.
To get to the 22-1/2 range, the oil pan is over the intake and hitting the bolts.

I found an 8qt Canton pan that's 7.5" deep that I can get if the engine needs to come back over the intake.

I was planning on mounting the battery on the inside of the starboard stringer, the fuel tanks are in the gunnels and are 12 gallons. I'm about 180lbs.

I'm thinking the motor should make 450-500hp on fuel.


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A back seat will shift center of gravity forward.

Is your intake machined for a shoe and ride plate?

Oh it doesn't have a setback? I read flushers comments and thought it had a 4" setback. Set back the intake, problem solved! Lol. Now I understand why your engine is winding up so far forward when the pan is past the intake. In this case I would either modify the pan or seriously consider a setback. Do the shoe and rideplate, setback, it will make a big differance I think


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Sorry, was trying to pull it without buying a new pan.  I just don't see the boat working good with the engine that far forward.

Good luck,

Joe

Got the first bulkhead cut and fit and the bow eye backup block replaced. The new oil pan also showed up today. 


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Arizona heat hit and killed motivation, but it's slowly coming along. Trying to chase down and fix stress cracks


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