Floor repair and transom

« **on:** February 15, 2016, 02:37:32 PM »

Had this Tahiti boat for a year new had it out all last summer after I built the motor. But the last trip I had sucked some rocks (pump rebuild soon)and noticed the floor flexing and water leaking from the transom .

I've never worked with fiberglass or done this kind of repair on a boat so what's the best way to tackle this? I have searched but I can't quite understand the lingo since I'm noob to fiberglass work. The p/o leaked oil all over the floor trying to change it out so that seemed to get the floor loose and rot it, also they use to use the transom hooks to ski tow and seperate the rear and also leaks from the old exhaust holes where it was poorly sealed and rotted the wood. Luckily stringers feel solid with the pound test.

Any tips advice appreciated pump rebuild will also need to be done and new seats its endless $$$$$$$

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« **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2016, 03:53:45 PM »

Can anyone tell me where to get the balsa wood flooring at and about what does it cost please and thank you

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« **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2016, 05:30:45 PM »

Quote from: 88 Baker on February 22, 2016, 03:53:45 PM

Can anyone tell me where to get the balsa wood flooring at and about what does it cost please and thank you

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No real such thing as balsa "flooring".

There is balsa core, it's used as a laminate to the actual hull and provides the ability for "honeycomb lamination".

Flooring, as you call it is typically plywood, birch or fir is typical.

There really is very little strength in balsa by itself.

GT

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/mobileportal/search.do?freeText=balsa+core&page=GRID&engine=adwords&keyword=balsa_core&gclid=CLb4nonejMsCFdgQgQodMQsCaw

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« **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2016, 09:47:30 AM »

I just want the look. Don't need strength. Just need to know where to find it. N the cost. Thanks again

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« **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2016, 11:04:18 AM »

Quote from: 88 Baker on February 23, 2016, 09:47:30 AM

I just want the look. Don't need strength. Just need to know where to find it. N the cost. Thanks again

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Did you check the link?

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« **Reply #5 on:** February 23, 2016, 01:47:51 PM »

Yes thanks didn't think it was 3/8 thick imagine that would add some weight. Thanks again for your help

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« **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2016, 01:58:13 PM »

Quote from: 88 Baker on February 23, 2016, 01:47:51 PM

Yes thanks didn't think it was 3/8 thick imagine that would add some weight. Thanks again for your help

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It weighs virtually nothing. It's the resin that's heavy.

GT

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« **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2016, 07:49:01 PM »

I was finally able to tear it out and find all the oil gunk and cracked floor. Didn't know these had a center stringer?

How important is the center stringer? The rear of it seems to be rotted through can I cut 1/4 and add to it?

First time I tackle such a project sorry for the 1000 questions. almost seems better to scrap the hull and fine another but I could end up with the same issues.

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« **Reply #8 on:** March 27, 2016, 08:50:36 PM »

Honestly I would scrap that hull, that's a ton of work. You could pick up another hull for pretty cheap and save yourself a ton of work.

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« **Reply #9 on:** March 27, 2016, 10:07:32 PM »

Quote from: jquizy on March 27, 2016, 07:49:01 PM

I was finally able to tear it out and find all the oil gunk and cracked floor. Didn't know these had a center stringer?

How important is the center stringer? The rear of it seems to be rotted through can I cut 1/4 and add to it?

First time I tackle such a project sorry for the 1000 questions. almost seems better to scrap the hull and fine another but I could end up with the same issues.

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I've done it it's not that bad. When I got my Tahiti it had rotten floors and that "stringer" or floor support was rotted too. I removed and replaced both and the boat has held up fine. I did cap it, add a rail kit, and now a bulkhead but all in all it was a fun learning experience and worth doing. I'd post pics but I did all that like three phones ago lol

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« **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2016, 07:36:57 AM »

Use the wax additive in your resin. If you dont the top layer will remain gummy. The wax will prevent oxygen to top allowing full cure to sand. Go to an actual fiberglass store an get good clear resin. They will also have the type of mat you need for strength.
Here s a link to my floor rebuild.
http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/new-floor-install/

« **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2016, 10:29:12 AM »

Quote from: Your Mom on March 28, 2016, 07:36:57 AM

Use the wax additive in your resin. If you dont the top layer will remain gummy. The wax will prevent oxygen to top allowing full cure to sand. Go to an actual fiberglass store an get good clear resin. They will also have the type of mat you need for strength.
Here s a link to my floor rebuild.
http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/new-floor-install/

Ive laid down gallons of resin without any kind of additive and never had a problem with it curing or sanding it. This seems like over complicating something simple to me. Unless the resin your getting acts differant than the standard 3m stuff I've been using?

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« **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2016, 10:45:16 AM »

Your gonna need a lot more than just that little can and bag you got. I am about 2/3 done mine and I just bought another gallon of resin

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« **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2016, 11:18:43 AM »

Man I thought I took more pictures, here's the only ones I could find

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« **Reply #14 on:** March 28, 2016, 11:22:15 AM »

Quote from: BCouey on March 28, 2016, 10:29:12 AM

Ive laid down gallons of resin without any kind of additive and never had a problem with it curing or sanding it. This seems like over complicating something simple to me. Unless the resin your getting acts differant than the standard 3m stuff I've been using?

There are laminating and finishing (also casting) resins. The difference is that the finishing resin has the paraffin wax already added to it so that it fully cures. As Mom stated, laminating resins, while exposed to oxygen, remain tacky so the next lamination can be applied without sanding (within 24 hours). The additive is so that you only need to purchase one type of resin. It seems that most consumer level resin has the wax additive unless specifically labeled as a laminating resin.

Watch "Polyester Resins Overview" on YouTube

Additive: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins/

« **Reply #15 on:** March 28, 2016, 12:13:40 PM »

Quote from: Flusher on March 28, 2016, 11:22:15 AM

There are laminating and finishing (also casting) resins. The difference is that the finishing resin has the paraffin wax already added to it so that it fully cures. As Mom stated, laminating resins, while exposed to oxygen, remain tacky so the next lamination can be applied without sanding (within 24 hours). The additive is so that you only need to purchase one type of resin. It seems that most consumer level resin has the wax additive unless specifically labeled as a laminating resin.

Watch "Polyester Resins Overview" on YouTube

Additive: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Styrene_Wax_71/Polyester_Resins/

Gotcha, now it all makes sense. Honestly for what I've been doing I didn't feel that the exact type of resin I was using was critical, so the Home Depot gallon of fiberglass resin along with CSM or cloth has been all I've used. If I was repairing or laying up a hull (which I'm not qualified to do lol) I would probably do the research and buy specific kinds of material.

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« **Reply #16 on:** March 28, 2016, 03:45:43 PM »

I'm planning on getting more resin and materials just wanted to see if this stuff would work since there are more than a few ways to go about this repair.

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« **Reply #17 on:** March 28, 2016, 11:24:18 PM »

I Installed all new floor in my sleek craft this last year. Floor was rotted. Center stringer was strong and in good condition so no stringer replacement needed. Installed all new plywood and fiberglass. This was my first fiberglass job and did research for about a month prior to install. I would not use any glass from Home Depot. I went to Sher Fab in Ontario. Sherfab has all the right stuff and tools. I used vinyl ester resin. The vinyl ester does not have the wax in it so you can layer over layer without prep work between layers. It will remain tacky for a while until you seal it from outside air. Sherfab has all the right mattings, tools , resins etc and will give you great info as well.

84sleekcraft

jquizy

Floor repair and transom

88 Baker

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GT Jets

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88 Baker

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eastcoastboys

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Jeff@reliablesvc.com

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