I guess I need to change my 'handle' ...

« **Reply #25 on:** June 05, 2007, 03:17:31 PM »

I left positive Karma for thecraz. Very cool of ya.

Wanabe, are you gunna be around at about 5ish? I gotta stop by a paint shop to look at some metalflake options in laguna niguel on my way home from work, then I can swing by then to check out the new float!

« **Reply #26 on:** June 05, 2007, 08:02:27 PM »

I sent you PM.

Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on June 05, 2007, 03:17:31 PM

I left positive Karma for thecraz. Very cool of ya.

I already left karma for thecraz; that was cool of him.

Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on June 05, 2007, 03:17:31 PM

Wanabe, are you gunna be around at about 5ish? I gotta stop by a paint shop to look at some metalflake options in laguna niguel on my way home from work, then I can swing by then to check out the new float!

Sorry I didn't get this earlier; I was out there (or somewhere close by); catch you next time.
Need a starter before I can go any further.

« **Reply #27 on:** June 07, 2007, 08:52:10 AM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on June 03, 2007, 12:28:04 AM

You want the solenoid R wire to go to the key switches ignition terminal.
Whether or not you need a ballast resistor entirily depends on what igntion coil you're using. If you've got an HEI on your Olds then you don't want to run a ballast resistor. Allmost all ignition coils require a ballast resistor. Ignition wire from the key goes to the starter R terminal and to one side of the ballast resistor, the other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil's + terminal.

NO, NO, NO, NO NO! The wire from the "R" terminal of the solenoid does NOT go to the ignition feed. It goes to the positive terminal of the coil, or the coil side of the ballast resistor. The circuit is called the "ballast bypass". It is only active when the starter is cranking. If you connect it to the IGN feed, you negate its designed function.

Ballast resistors are used almost exclusively with point-type ignition systems. The only electronic ignition that I have seen use a ballast resistor is the Mallory Unilite.

« **Reply #28 on:** June 07, 2007, 01:54:56 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 08:52:10 AM

The wire from the "R" terminal of the solenoid ... goes to the positive terminal of the coil

Thanks; that how I have it.

Does anything then run from Coil + to the Terminal Board? The diagram I have shows Solenoid R to Ballast Resistor that also gets feed from Terminal Board 4 (Ignition) then to Coil + (maybe it assumes points ignition); so, then with no Ballast Resistor, shouldn't there still be a connection from Coil + to the Terminal Board Ignition? (Terminal Board 4 also has connection from Alternator).
Also, the wire from Solenoid to Coil is very small wire (same as those for temp/oil pressure); is that OK or should it be larger wire (lower gauge)?

Diagram:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=71&pos=4

« **Reply #29 on:** June 07, 2007, 02:20:07 PM »

That diagram is correct ONLY for points ignition. If you have electronic ignition, you would delete the ballast resistor and the circuit from "R" on starter to coil. You would then wire in the electronic per the system manufacturer's instructions.

What do you have, or plan to have, for an ignition system?

Yes the small gauge wire should be OK. Remember, that circuit is only supplying power to the ignition for a few seconds(during cranking only). If it bothers you, step it up to the same size as the wires going to ballast from terminal block . Again, this circuit is needed ONLY for a points ignition system.

« **Reply #30 on:** June 07, 2007, 03:07:36 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 02:20:07 PM

What do you have, or plan to have, for an ignition system?

It's a Wells.

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 02:20:07 PM

You would then wire in the electronic per the system manufacturer's instructions.

Don't have; will look for online (unless you can guide me).

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 02:20:07 PM

That diagram is correct ONLY for points ignition. If you have electronic ignition, you would delete the ballast resistor and the circuit from "R" on starter to coil.

So nothing from Solenoid R to Coil?

« **Reply #31 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:13:27 PM »

I am more than familiar with the Wells name as they manufacture replace ignition parts, but not sure they make any complete replacement ignition systems. Can you put up pics of the distibutor(inside and out)?

I can try to help you but, again, need to figure out what you have.

Correct. Nothing from "R" to coil IF you are running electronic ignition. No reason for the "ballast bypass" circuit when you dont have a ballast resistor. For the record, when GM went to electronic ignition they deleted the "R" terminal from the starter solenoid. Aftermarket replacements still have the "R" terminal to be able to service all applications with fewer part numbers. Saves them $$$.

« **Reply #32 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:18:02 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 08:52:10 AM

NO, NO, NO, NO NO! The wire from the "R" terminal of the solenoid does NOT go to the ignition feed. It goes to the positive terminal of the coil, or the coil side of the ballast resistor. The circuit is called the "ballast bypass". It is only active when the starter is cranking. If you connect it to the IGN feed, you negate its designed function.

Ballast resistors are used almost exclusively with point-type ignition systems. The only electronic ignition that I have seen use a ballast resistor is the Mallory Unilite.

I think I speak for a number of people when I say "THANK YOU" for your help and from keeping the less informed from making mistakes!! It's people like you that will make this a great site. ( and stop kicking my ass in video poker)

« **Reply #33 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:30:33 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 04:13:27 PM

Can you put up pics of the distibutor(inside and out)?

YES; it'll be a little while because I'm off to a meeting now.
Thanks for your help.

« **Reply #34 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:46:43 PM »

Quote from: wanabe on June 07, 2007, 04:30:33 PM

YES; it'll be a little while because I'm off to a meeting now.
Thanks for your help.

Cool. I'll check back later.

Quote from: Marcsrollin on June 07, 2007, 04:18:02 PM

I think I speak for a number of people when I say "THANK YOU" for your help and from keeping the less informed from making mistakes!! It's people like you that will make this a great site. ( and stop kicking my ass in video poker)

Happy to help. When I was young and just getting into cars, I had my dad and a neighbor to turn to for help. Now that I'm ..uhh...older

....I figure it's my turn to pass along some of what I've learned.

I hit my 1 billion target at poker, so I'll probably give it a rest for a while. Need to let my left mouse button finger recover.

Was that you that I met at the drags at Ming last month with Brad? I was kind of in a hurry since I was running late and had "tow driver" duty for a friend.

« **Reply #35 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:59:38 PM »

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 07, 2007, 04:46:43 PM

Was that you that I met at the drags at Ming last month with Brad? I was kind of in a hurry since I was running late and had "tow driver" duty for a friend.

Yeah that was me.

« **Reply #36 on:** June 07, 2007, 09:46:24 PM »

Here are the pics; hope they're large enough:

« **Reply #37 on:** June 08, 2007, 12:19:01 PM »

That is a basic GM HEI ignition. The hook up is quite simple. One wire from the terminal block to the B+ terminal on distributor and one from the tach terminal on terminal block to tach terminal of distributor.
No ballast resistor and no wire from starter "R" terminal to coil. As an option, you can control the B+ feed with a relay to avoid any potential problem with voltage drop in the circuit.

Having said that, that distributor lookas a little worse for wear with spliced wires and rusty advance mechanism. Someone also seems to have removed tha vacuum advance unit, and while it is not needed, there has to be a strap installed to hold the advance plate from moving.

« **Reply #38 on:** June 08, 2007, 01:19:12 PM »

Thanks to your help I'll have all this done, but the coil/distributor is now the least of my concern; tried to turn the engine by hand yesterday and it wouldn't budge; liquid splashed from the plug holes; first thought was water but is gas (mostly gas; may have water mixed with it); will be taking it apart this weekend.

Regardless, may as well finish up with this issue:

Quote from: Oldsquirt on June 08, 2007, 12:19:01 PM

vacuum advance unit, and while it is not needed, there has to be a strap installed to hold the advance plate from moving

Where would that go? What type of strap?

« **Reply #39 on:** June 09, 2007, 11:59:19 AM »

OK; now for the engine; got the manifold and heads off; looks like it's been sitting for a while with water in it; rust, rust (what a shame).

These pics after some cleaning up (I should have taken some before I cleaned anything); the liquid you see in there is from WD40 I sprayed it up with (before I cleaned a little, a combo of water and fuel filled the cylinders.

« **Reply #40 on:** June 09, 2007, 12:44:44 PM »

yummmm, rust $:-\$

« **Reply #41 on:** June 09, 2007, 01:54:44 PM »

$600 for a excellant running long block, $500 for the short block, partial trades accepted - possibly including your short block and possibly your cylinder heads dpending on what versions they are.

« **Reply #42 on:** June 09, 2007, 03:52:46 PM »

Rod: PM sent.

I cannot turn it at all! Used almost a full 11oz can of WD (first round at 10:30am). I'm at a stand-still.

I'm just glad I didn't put the starter on that Rod gave me before checking this out; since the engine is that stuck, it probably would have fried the starter bendix.

« **Reply #43 on:** June 09, 2007, 04:51:51 PM »

You are going to have to remove the engine completely from the hull. An engine stand will be invaluable, it'll just be a pain in your assss if you don't have one. Then you're going to want to pull the main journals off (mark them telling you which journal it goes on and in which direction they were on), remove the connecting rod nuts off and the rod's caps (mark them telling you which journal it goes on and in which direction they were on), push each piston out through the top, lift out the crank, and take everything down to a machinist and have them checked for cracks, size, etc.................................... ......

« **Reply #44 on:** June 10, 2007, 07:55:29 AM »

After soaking in WD most of yesterday and all night, I was able to move the crank this morning (I didn't hurry out there today because I didn't expect anything so I was quite surprised when it moved).

Gotta go!

BTW, I don't have full rotation; it just moved a little.

« **Reply #45 on:** June 10, 2007, 08:25:18 AM »

Dude, that engine will never run. It has to come completly apart. Turning it may cause more damage. Depending on how long it sat full of water, ( rust pits in the cyinders) you may get away with just rings and bearings. That rust is just like sand now, it has to be completly removed.

« **Reply #46 on:** June 10, 2007, 12:27:20 PM »

Quote from: HDriderTH on June 10, 2007, 08:25:18 AM

Dude, that engine will never run. It has to come completly apart. Turning it may cause more damage. Depending on how long it sat full of water, ( rust pits in the cyinders) you may get away with just rings and bearings. That rust is just like sand now, it has to be completly removed.

wanabe, I know your cash situation, I know you want to get on the water with your jet boat, I know, I know, I know, you are asking for sh!tloads of nothing but trouble and heartache if you do anything with that engine other than completely tearing it down and having everything professionally checked out and then completely rebuilding it. You will not be able to get that engine to turn over, flush it out, and get it to run for more than 30 minutes with the boat in the water. I've got a $100 be on that bet and I am broke as **** and don't have the cash to waiste on a stupid bet.

« **Reply #47 on:** June 10, 2007, 04:50:28 PM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on June 10, 2007, 12:27:20 PM

wanabe, I know your cash situation, I know you want to get on the water with your jet boat, I know, I know, I know, you are asking for sh!tloads of nothing but trouble and heartache if you do anything with that engine other than completely tearing it down and having everything professionally checked out and then completely rebuilding it. You will not be able to get that engine to turn over, flush it out, and get it to run for more than 30 minutes with the boat in the water. I've got a $100 be on that bet and I am broke as **** and don't have the cash to waiste on a stupid bet.

i'm with rod on this one, sorry bro either rebuild it rite or get another engine. sorry $:-\$

« **Reply #48 on:** June 10, 2007, 06:28:08 PM »

You can probably find a running or rebuildable olds for real cheap . Definatly needs to be gone through correctly.

-beerjet-

« **Reply #49 on:** July 19, 2007, 10:57:50 PM »

First, I appreciate and utilize advice from y'all and respect the opinions of those who know much more than me; but I chose to ignore some comments here for various reasons.

That said ...
THE KONA IS RUNNING ! ! ...
so I figure it's time to bring this thread back to life.

Tentatively, Flytime and I will be going to Lake Hodges this Sunday to water test; anyone who wants to join us is more than welcome (if you don't mind being seen with an ugly boat).

I finished putting the engine back together a couple weeks back and it actually started then; I shut her down and pulled the carb because the gas flow wasn't right; got carb rebuid kit last week and got that done; had to then work out some timing issues then VOILA.
Saturday I'll need to do some tweeking (not to mention putting a water pump in my Jeep so I can tow her and get to DMV tomorrow to register); although it starts easy and runs well, the ignition switch doesn't turn it off (alternator diode I think because I didn't put one in; not sure where to pick that up but will find out tomorrow), no tach read (I'm stumped on that one) and oil pressure didn't register today (although it did the first time we started it so may just be lose wire or bad sender).

Anyway, let us know if you want to join us. If it has to be cancelled for some reason, I'll post here Saturday night.

THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE !

Brad @ SCJB

wanabe

Oldsquirt

wanabe

Oldsquirt

wanabe

Oldsquirt

Marcsrollin

wanabe

Oldsquirt

Marcsrollin

wanabe

Oldsquirt

wanabe

wanabe

Brad @ SCJB

hotrod56cars

wanabe

hotrod56cars

wanabe

HDriderTH

hotrod56cars

Ralph Brunt

beerjet

wanabe