I guess I need to change my 'handle' ...

« **on:** May 26, 2007, 08:15:47 AM »

... or maybe I should wait 'til it's running and in the water.

I've been a little busy since Tuesday so I haven't been online long enough to do anything; I picked up a boat on Wednesday, packed for Memorial trip on Thursday after work, drove 11 hours to New Mexico on Friday, where I sit right now.

It may not be pretty and doesn't run (yet), but we're on our way (one step at a time).

1974 18' Kona, Berkeley, 455 olds (hopefully with a good block; I'll find out soon enough).
(hopefully these pics come on the message)

« **Reply #1 on:** May 26, 2007, 08:43:44 AM »

I see alot of potential and alot of sanding in your future. What did you pay?

« **Reply #2 on:** May 26, 2007, 09:14:36 AM »

Wanabe,

hit me up when youre back in town. I want to swing by and check it out.

Congrats on finding a boat....a great deal at that.

-Brad

« **Reply #3 on:** May 26, 2007, 02:44:55 PM »

Nice looking hull. A fresh gel or paint coat and you will be looking good and throwing roosters.
Congratz

« **Reply #4 on:** May 26, 2007, 05:32:55 PM »

You get that thing in the water in any condition and I'll supply your first round of boat sodas. Great score and good luck with the project and enjoy it .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #5 on:** May 26, 2007, 11:04:37 PM »

Boat sodas ... that there's funny.

« **Reply #6 on:** May 27, 2007, 07:12:18 AM »

Quote from: bluenun on May 26, 2007, 08:43:44 AM

alot of sanding in your future.

That's for sure.

Quote from: The Chaz on May 26, 2007, 02:44:55 PM

fresh gel or paint coat

After I get the motor running I think I'll just sand it out and throw on a coat of paint for now; I'll worry about the exterior looks down the road.

Quote from: The Chaz on May 26, 2007, 02:44:55 PM

throwing roosters

I'll need to add on a diverter first

« **Reply #7 on:** May 30, 2007, 10:39:38 PM »

Is Old Rigger for hire?

I'll need to get some electrical issues worked out before I get to the engine on this boat; it's poorly wired, if not all screwed up.

I came across 2 wiring diagrams; the first thing that gets me is both show 3 connectors from the ignition (ignition, start, battery); but my ignition has 4 (those mentioned + accessory); to start, I thought I'd throw a quick run-down here in case anyone has some quick suggestions:
- In acc position, bat & acc terminals are hot;
- In on position, nothing is hot but the fuel pump runs (I think it's the fuel pump);
- When put in acc, the voltage indicator drops down below line, so must not be registering right;
- Also, the fuel gauge backlight is ALWAYS on (even when off; other gauges probably also have backlight but they don?t light).

« **Reply #8 on:** May 30, 2007, 10:41:38 PM »

Hey! I just moved from "Newbie" to "Jr. Member"; I'm moving on up.

« **Reply #9 on:** May 31, 2007, 12:31:04 AM »

Quote from: wanabe on May 30, 2007, 10:41:38 PM

Hey! I just moved from "Newbie" to "Jr. Member"; I'm moving on up.

Keep on truckin bro .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2007, 12:36:27 AM »

Quote from: wanabe on May 30, 2007, 10:39:38 PM

... I came across 2 wiring diagrams; the first thing that gets me is both show 3 connectors from the ignition (ignition, start, battery); but my ignition has 4 (those mentioned + accessory); to start, I thought I'd throw a quick run-down here in case anyone has some quick suggestions:
- In acc position, bat & acc terminals are hot;

Perfect.

Quote from: wanabe on May 30, 2007, 10:39:38 PM

...- In on position, nothing is hot but the fuel pump runs (I think it's the fuel pump);
...

The electric fuel pump should be running, the bat, acc, and the ig should be "hot" on the key switch.

Quote from: wanabe on May 30, 2007, 10:39:38 PM

...- When put in acc, the voltage indicator drops down below line, so must not be registering right;
...

Not sure which line you're talking about or what gauge you have. If it's a volt gauge the needle should only move (in the acc position) if you've got a stereo system in it, otherwise it shouldn't move at all.

Quote from: wanabe on May 30, 2007, 10:39:38 PM

...- Also, the fuel gauge backlight is ALWAYS on (even when off; other gauges probably also have backlight but they don?t light).

Sounds like a mis-wired light, could also be wired correctly but have a bad ground in the dash area.

Need any Olds parts? Bekeley parts? I sold some Olds Bassett OT headers sold today to a lurker. Some of my Olds parts are already on eBay. Really nice quality used stuff.

« **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2007, 01:11:51 PM »

Thanks rod! I don't know what parts I'll need until I straighten out the wiring. I do know I'll need a rudder when I get to that point; the one on it is broken (Berkeley 12JC).

Does this sound like a ground problem? What would cause the acc/bat to work in "acc" but not work in "on" (although the pump runs in "on")?
I'm going to work from the switch forward and go from there.

« **Reply #12 on:** May 31, 2007, 01:50:49 PM »

hey i have a rudder you can have it was broke once then i had it welded good as new its for a 12 jc

« **Reply #13 on:** May 31, 2007, 02:27:32 PM »

Quote from: wanabe on May 31, 2007, 01:11:51 PM

Thanks rod! I don't know what parts I'll need until I straighten out the wiring. I do know I'll need a rudder when I get to that point; the one on it is broken (Berkeley 12JC).

Does this sound like a ground problem? What would cause the acc/bat to work in "acc" but not work in "on" (although the pump runs in "on")?
I'm going to work from the switch forward and go from there.

You're welcome. I'd disconnect all but the bat from the key switch (write down how it was connected before!) and grab a test light and see what's what at the switch. Could be a bad key switch. If it checks good add the acc wire and check each post again on the switch. If that looks good add the ig wires, and check it again, and so on. You may want to re-hook up each wire one at a time as you check the switch. Could be a ground problem also.

Pefect. Start at the ig switch and go from there.

« **Reply #14 on:** May 31, 2007, 09:27:00 PM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on May 31, 2007, 02:27:32 PM

You're welcome. I'd disconnect all but the bat from the key switch (write down how it was connected before!) and grab a test light and see what's what at the switch. Could be a bad key switch. If it checks good add the acc wire and check each post again on the switch. If that looks good add the ig wires, and check it again, and so on. You may want to re-hook up each wire one at a time as you check the switch. Could be a ground problem also.
Pefect. Start at the ig switch and go from there.

The ignition switch is branch new; I just replaced it.
I was thinking more about that acc. Do boats usually have the acc position on the ignition (or is it just 'on' and crank)? I found 2 diagrams and both only show 3 posts on the ignition switch (ign, start, batt). The switch I pulled had 4 (+ acc), so I duplicated that with the new switch.

« **Reply #15 on:** June 01, 2007, 12:46:01 AM »

Yes, boats normally have a ig switch with just off, on, and crank. Personally, I'd rather have a ig switch with a acc position. For sand bar/"beach" tunes.

So you put in a new ignition. Is that before or after the problems?

Quote from: wanabe on May 31, 2007, 01:11:51 PM

.. What would cause the acc/bat to work in "acc" but not work in "on" ...

Having the batttery wire on the acc postion and the acc wire on the battery position would cause that. It would also turn the fuel pump on whenever your key switch is in the on position but not turn your fuel pump on when its in the acc position. Your fuel pump would shut off whenever you try to crank the engine over. It wouldn't allow you to crank the engine over though. Hope this helps. The crank position terminal and the ig terminal on the key switch would be "dead" whenever the switch is in the crank position.

« **Reply #16 on:** June 01, 2007, 02:48:09 PM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on June 01, 2007, 12:46:01 AM

So you put in a new ignition. Is that before or after the problems?

What are you trying to say

?

The first problem was not having an ignition key, which is why I replaced the ignition; so, the problem already existed. I duplicated the wiring one wire at a time as not to mix them up; the ignition that was in it had 5 posts but only 4 wired (ground/GRD had no wire and there is no ground/GRD on the one I put in); also, the new one had posts marked IGN/BAT/ACC and one not marked (in the middle), which I presumed was START(er).
I'll check to make sure the wires are in the right position.

« **Reply #17 on:** June 01, 2007, 11:01:47 PM »

Quote from: wanabe on June 01, 2007, 02:48:09 PM

...
I'll check to make sure the wires are in the right position.

My head was smoking after thinking about what would cause that problem.

« **Reply #18 on:** June 02, 2007, 10:53:56 PM »

First full day to work, made a lot of progress on the Kona; a lot of the wiring was wrong so after trying to correct I decided to take Brad's suggestion and start from scratch (first thing was to dump the mystery relay).
I pulled the starter/solenoid so can't report on that but all else is better; the gauges function properly, ignition switch points are 'hot' at appropriate time (per Rod's info - thanks!), blower operates (although no on/off switch; don't know if it was run all the time but I don't think that would be right).

QUESTION - BALLAST RESISTOR
What is it and is it needed?
One diagram shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' to Solenoid 'R';
The other shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' leaving Terminal Block, going thru Ballast Resistor, connecting to wire from Solenoid 'R', then both terminating on Ignition Coil '+'.
Can I just run Ignition Switch 'IGN' directly to Ignition Coil '+' (or Solenoid 'R')?

« **Reply #19 on:** June 02, 2007, 10:58:34 PM »

Wiring diagram:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=4

« **Reply #20 on:** June 03, 2007, 12:28:04 AM »

Quote from: wanabe on June 02, 2007, 10:53:56 PM

First full day to work, made a lot of progress on the Kona; a lot of the wiring was wrong so after trying to correct I decided to take Brad's suggestion and start from scratch (first thing was to dump the mystery relay).
I pulled the starter/solenoid so can't report on that but all else is better; the gauges function properly, ignition switch points are 'hot' at appropriate time (per Rod's info - thanks!), blower operates (although no on/off switch; don't know if it was run all the time but I don't think that would be right).

QUESTION - BALLAST RESISTOR
What is it and is it needed?
One diagram shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' to Solenoid 'R';
The other shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' leaving Terminal Block, going thru Ballast Resistor, connecting to wire from Solenoid 'R', then both terminating on Ignition Coil '+'.
Can I just run Ignition Switch 'IGN' directly to Ignition Coil '+' (or Solenoid 'R')?

Right on! Progress is gooood.

Oh God, you're listening to Brad?

The blower on my Rogers was on whenever the key was on. Helps prevent explosions. I am guessing it's supposed to be on all the time but I really don't know for sure.

You want the solenoid R wire to go to the key switches ignition terminal. Whether or not you need a ballast resistor entirily depends on what igntion coil you're using. If you've got an HEI on your Olds then you don't want to run a ballast resistor. Allmost all ignition coils require a ballast resistor. Ignition wire from the key goes to the starter R terminal and to one side of the ballast resistor, the other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil's + terminal.

« **Reply #21 on:** June 03, 2007, 12:47:49 AM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on June 03, 2007, 12:28:04 AM

Oh God, you're listening to Brad?

Quote from: hotrod56cars on June 03, 2007, 12:28:04 AM

The blower on my Rogers was on whenever the key was on. Helps prevent explosions. I am guessing it's supposed to be on all the time but I really don't know for sure.

Could be right; I'll leave it then; I was thinking you blow the fumes out before ignition and that while running it wasn't an issue.

Quote from: hotrod56cars on June 03, 2007, 12:28:04 AM

You want the solenoid R wire to go to the key switches ignition terminal. Whether or not you need a ballast resistor entirily depends on what igntion coil you're using. If you've got an HEI on your Olds then you don't want to run a ballast resistor. Allmost all ignition coils require a ballast resistor. Ignition wire from the key goes to the starter R terminal and to one side of the ballast resistor, the other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil's + terminal.

Thanks!

Going to bed now.

« **Reply #22 on:** June 03, 2007, 06:24:28 AM »

hey wanabe if you give me your address i'll send you that rudder we talked about. thecraz

« **Reply #23 on:** June 03, 2007, 08:25:59 AM »

Quote from: thecraz on June 03, 2007, 06:24:28 AM

hey wanabe if you give me your address i'll send you that rudder we talked about. thecraz

Thanks! Sent you a PM.

« **Reply #24 on:** June 05, 2007, 03:12:33 PM »

Quote from: thecraz on June 03, 2007, 06:24:28 AM

hey wanabe if you give me your address i'll send you that rudder we talked about. thecraz

I simply make mention of needing a Berk12JC rudder in passing; thecraz offers a repaired rudder, follows up, ships right away, and I already have it.
THANKS craz and thanks Brad for this website.

wanabe

bluenun

Brad @ SCJB

The Chaz

beerjet

GlassCutter

wanabe

wanabe

wanabe

beerjet

hotrod56cars

wanabe

thecraz

hotrod56cars

wanabe

hotrod56cars

wanabe

hotrod56cars

wanabe

wanabe

hotrod56cars

wanabe

thecraz

wanabe

wanabe