SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: Squirrel Master on February 09, 2014, 04:40:43 PM
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pick this up last night 1979 tahiti super Tiger Trailers pretty nice it came with stainless steel fuel lines and fittings, battery Holly Black fuel pump and regulator, chevy three point mounts (don't need will sell). okay paint looks good it has some cracks around where they capped it I will take care of that later gauges are graffig, jet is a JC pump rotates easy and smooth with the loader, polished place diveter, ride plate. seats are ok woods older needs new carpet. I need to swap the 429 from the sleekcraft. I hope they don't give me problems registration title either cuz they painted over all the numbers on the boat and trailer
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more pictures
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Nice come up man!!!! Can't wait to see it transform!!!!
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More pic. Have some parts fom my old boat that will match
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I saw that on CL. I looked pretty clean. I like the silver paint. :thumbup:
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I saw that on CL. I looked pretty clean. I like the silver paint. :thumbup:
X2 the silver with pin striped flames...nice!!!!
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when I finished my motor I painted it grabber green what should I do paint purple over it or add green pin striping to the purple n leave it? Also it has two bilge pumps teed together thaught your not suppose to do that?
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I think add some green accents to the boat, that's just my opinion.
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I think add some green accents to the boat, that's just my opinion.
X2
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I was going to suggest maybe black for the motor because that's a pretty bright green.
I was thinking it would make the motor stand out. A lot.
But, if there is enough polished/chrome on the motor and green accents on the hull, I think it would help bring it all together.
Again, I'm really diggin the silver color on the hull.
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Maybe you could paint the block to look like a cut away: Pistons, Rods, Crank. That would show off your abilities and look cool! :thumbup:
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Ok so i was taking out the stuff i dont need n i found two holes in the hull some dumb ass put screws to hold down the bilge pump seats n went all the way through. The point of buying this was to not have to do glass work ill post pics later. Here are partsill list to sell later offers welcome.
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okay there is maybe a number 8 screw hole in the bottom of my hull where the smart person that put the bilge pump in drilled a bolt into it and screw into it to hold it down now do I have to use a dowel and glass that in. Or can I just cleaned the whole out fresh grind the top of the inside of the hall and make a really thick mixture of cabosil in resin to fill the hole. also the hydraulic place diriveter has maybe a1 inch travel right to left without the wheel turning it feels like the bolt that holds the pin I believe it hold it to the pin feels like it slips the alan screw there is not stainless steel like I see it in the place diriver ad so if I remove that and put in a little bit longer bolts that stainless steel should that do it or can it be the cable that I need to fix then how do I check this? Tomorrow is a boat work day changing harmonic balancer put in new pull switches 12 volt power plug(cigarette lighter) bow n stern light hopefully and pull dizzy n headers for motor swap.. and correct these other issues
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Thickened resin is fine from inside and outside. Drill the hole clean and then countersink the hole to provide some strength.
Gotta love people that screw into the bottom of their boat... Heh.
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Awsome cabosil n west marine or is there something stronger
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today was a good day and a rough day I replaced the harmonic balancer with the right one the balance one and I put in new pull switch and labeled some of the wiring in the old boat for the new whoever buys it owner and then I went to try to figure out why my drirvetor has movement from right to left without telling the wheel and I found this problem so this is where I stopped for today at take a look fellas
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More pics
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Pics got a new cover too
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Heres the bad for today and what sucks is this dude had the boat in the water no honest people these days
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when dude was selling his boat he was b******* about how he got burned by the last guy he bought the boat from but then he doesn't say anything about what's f***** up about it what do you think of that. Smh people should just say this is good this is bad when you sell stuff maybe im the minority on this
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So non stainless bolt rusted and broke in half this is why nozzle turned without the wheel turning threads on divirter stripped can i tap bigger?? The whole behind the arm that holds the hydraulic cylinder n screws to pin is the stripped one.
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ordered parts new arm, pin, nylon bushing, steering bushing, lexan pump cover from Place today that dude Tim is cool as the other side of the pillow... stoked
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WHAT i just ordered this yesterday and they already came >:D
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What does new interior run and where in vegas does well and reasonable
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What does new interior run and where in vegas does well and reasonable
Hit up Sean, "Allfiredup". He has some one that does Upholstery, and he said he is resonable.
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Wow. That is quick service.
Never seen a key way in a pivot pin before. Custom.
With that new arm, you'll have to extend the steering cable to reach, right? I wasn't sure if you took a look at that or not.
What are you looking to do with the interior? All new wood and upholstery? Just new upholstery? Buckets and a bench? Cocktail style?
Have you thought about fiberglass shells?
About 10 years ago, I had a completely new interior (wood, upholstery, and carpet) done for $2,000. That was down here in SoCal.
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Im gonna need new wood n upolstery. My first thought was to remove all the new interior for my old boat and put in this 1 for the time being because the woods is new but then this new boat the seat frame are fiberglassed to the floor and makes them from the front and rear to share the same platform and my rear bench will expose base n look ugly :mad: so now I'm thinking I have to do the same style of seating that I have so I'm thinking about something kinda like this in shape of this with some kind of diamond stitch. I'm just trying to get a plan together and save because I need to cut back on bling or things i want and make sure that the boat is safe and sound running and drivable before I start playing with anything else cause I keep wanting to go bigger and better before I know everything's okay but i like having a plan to save for
pic 1 i like the shape but want the most seating and keep motor more blocked off from arms pic 2 is nice too n pic 3 box stitch is cool too
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Wow. That is quick service.
Totally right
Never seen a key way in a pivot pin before. Custom.
magiver called n said they forgot the chewing gum and paper clips
With that new arm, you'll have to extend the steering cable to reach, right? I wasn't sure if you took a look at that or not.
idk i just sent pictures to Tim at place and he said change to this so i will find out when i go to insta
What are you looking to do with the interior? All new wood and upholstery? Just new upholstery? Buckets and a bench? Cocktail style?
Have you thought about fiberglass shells?
About 10 years ago, I had a completely new interior (wood, upholstery, and carpet) done for $2,000. That was down here in SoCal.
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FYI, if you can't adjust the cable and steering tube enough to reach the arm, I have seen steering extensions out there.
Is the seat base fiberglassed all the way around? My old base only had 4- 12" strips of fiberglass resined to the false floor and some screws.
Does the new boat have a false floor?
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Tim at Place Diverter has steering extenders if no one on here has one laying around.
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the seat box extends from the side of the inside of the hull out towards the middle stops about two three inches on the sub floor they go from about 1 inch height about 4 inches high and then the glassed all the way in top bottom sides everything I would rather have the fiberglass seat buckets but I can't go that way unless I want to cut s*** out :banghead:
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Toaday i just did some perttyfying on the bezels volt gauge was siliconed in :thumbdown: tried to pry it out then poured mineral spirits on it and twisted it out. I tried to test it by puting hot n negative on the battery but it didnt read. So i will wait to see if the others work and either replace the one or order all new gauges. Also finished 3 caot of spar varnish on wood for new bunks. Then i installed new steering tube seal (had hokie seal) and forward reverse seal(old one was cracked and filled with silicone), took off pd put new nylon bushings installed new pin and painted and installed new arm n found out i dont need an extension. 8) (just need a new bolt for steering cable connection) then i cut lexan pd pump cover for wires to exit removed the wood block they tried to use to hold it and got it mounted. Tomorrow will jack the boat up mark n drill bunk holes carpet and mount. Lastly made appointment to drop off boat for motor swap for monday after next.
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More pics need to get touch up paint for around steering tube
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Pd pump pics the wood block was the old mount system
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Pd pics. The site is not working with me :o
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oh well live n learn I jacked the boat up and did the bunks and put everything on and then dropped the boats and the boat shifted when lifted a little bit and I tried to adjust for it but I was a little bit off on the outer bunks and I also tried to go with 2 by 6 is on the outer bunks and you have to trailer the boat perfect on it so I think next week I will remove the 2 by 6 is an go to 2 by 4s. This was kind of tricky by myself :screwy: oh check the dope bunk bungees.. little blood and sweat today too
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I contemplated how I was gonna do that for a while, ended up putting the boat in lake Elsinore, tied it up to the dock and brought the generator and drill to put the new bunks on.
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Forward reverse cable was cracked so i put it through a stress test pd up down foward reverse right left forward reverse and it broke. So glad i did that because if that broke at speed throwing me into reverse that could have been bad.
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this is not my loader but mine looks like this what do i need to do to it?
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West systems are in the building 8)
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Forward reverse cable was cracked so i put it through a stress test pd up down foward reverse right left forward reverse and it broke. So glad i did that because if that broke at speed throwing me into reverse that could have been bad.
I had the 1/4" bolt back out of the reverse gate, and it dropped, not catastrophic at all, boat just slowed down (thrust kinda kept it 1/2 way open). If ya really wanna stop in a hurry, throw the reverse gate down and stand on it...works like a charm...jet skiers hate it...
Dan'l
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I dont think i want to stop that fast.. oh got new forward reverse cable in too..
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I didnt get as far as i would like. Heres what i did do installed new forward rev cable move the diverter hydro cylinder back a whole because it was hitting the ride plate srtuts shortening rt turn a bit. Made a spacer for steering arm so pump is now good to go. Then sanded the bulkhead n neighboring glass to retab them. Then moved to the hard stuff opened up stringer holes and cut n inserted dowels, opened up holes in the bottom and grinded glass down and found 5 more holes all in relatively same spots :banghead: Got pissed and called it a day. Check out the sweet seat shims in first pic :thumbdown:
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More pics. Im probly gonna take it back off and add a design to it just eanted to make it work first
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Pump Pics. I know pump looks like $h*t damb sprinklers
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Stringer plugs
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So today i retabbed the bulkhead because it wasnt tabbed at all and filled holes in the hull and glassed over. I hope it hold before icame in i knocked on it its "Solid solid as a rock" (in my best tina turner voice) :screwy: 0h i built up the floor a lil thicker tan it was
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Oh n here is better pic of for rev cable n back of the boat
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it doesn't look like I did a whole lot but I spent all day taking up the carpet scraping the glue and sanding the floor and the stringers and the bilge area tomorrow I'm going to glass over the stringers where the dowels are and then I'm ready to paint the bilge. I think im going to paint outside the stringer too.
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Pulling out carpet and removing the glue, is a chore in its self!
if you got it all done in a day, id say that is a major accompishment.
Trust me, been there done that!
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Cleaning old glue is hands down the worst job IMO. Makes you want to just re- carpet and move on. Nice work! :thumbup:
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Today i got the strigers reglassed over dowels and my carb came back in from getting marine conversion (vent tube off road needle n seat n something else i forgot) new eccelerator pumps rebuilt n dyno floed n tuned ;D saturday will paint the bilge n back of the boat
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Since my carb has an adjustable jets in the metering block I was searching when and how to adjust and found this kinda kool maybe help some of you guys tune.
http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html (http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html)
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Bilge painted getting closer. STOKED O0
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so today I went and picked up some AN fittings steel braided hose and other hoses for the boat and builge pump (300$ n need to get more tomorrow :banghead:) why did i go this route. and now I'm thinking I have tons of questions so here they go
number 1 can I find out what impeller I have in my jet without disassembling it? Becuse the motor that was in it was heavily horsed n on nitrous n my motor is in the 350ish range so im worried it wont turn the pump
number 2 do I have to run to dumps to run to builge pumps one automatic and one on a switch they ran to builge pumps into one dump but they were both on the same switch?
number 3 the boat shop that is doing the motor swap from the sleekcraft to the tahiti is interested in Trading their services that they're doing for me 4 the sleekcraft hull I was going to put that hull on here for you guys super cheap like 800 bucks or sowould you guys do that deal?
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ok questions fellas on this 18 foot boat do I need to run a tank selector? Also how important is a fuel water separator?
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getting water in the tanks is VERY common with flip style tank fills and the fuel seperator is just added protection that you wont burn water... burning water is the best way to bend a rod. so for the $40 cost, its great peace of mind. also it gets all the big chunks from the gas tank and then you run a smaller inline filter to the carb.
as far as dumps for the bilge pump i wouldnt run 2 into one dump. if you run one pump, its gonna go down the hose of the other and there is no check valve in the hose/pump as that could clog. if you're gonna run to bilge pumps, run 2 dumps.
fuel selector can be done at the fuel separator. go to home depot and put a 1/2" PTFE ball valve on each inlet. the fuel pump will suck from the open side. if they're both open it'll pull from both but favor the shortest/easiest side.
mine:
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/t1.0-9/1383300_10151755977559833_650538922_n.jpg)
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one or two more boxes to come in and we are ready to put this thing back together
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okay so she came home today motor is in all new bearings and seals on the trailer on all four tires I didn't get all that much done but I had my stainless steel hose is soaking in clr for like the last couple days so I brushed and scrubed them to where they look pretty decent now for the ones I'm going to reuse then I started working on my plumbing a little bit I ran into problems of my elbow fitting didnt clear the intake manifold and then I tried to run a straight fitting and take the hose up and over it will hit the distributor on some kind of poked on that for the moment. and then I fought with the distributor to get it put in because the drive shaft for the oil pump in a Ford has a retaining clips you can't take it all the way out so that took for ever to get to distributor to go in where I wanted it to be. Its back at top dead center and then I put my carburetor on I had to cut a piece of all thread to be able to fit in it because it's bigger than normal Holly and then drill the top of my air cleaner whole out to accommodate the new all thread and then I remove the old builge pumps so I can get the new ones in and that's where i stopped for the day that's it all done day long for that
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does anyone know or remember if they have had a problem with hei distributor blocking or being in the way of your thermostat housing on a big block Ford
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Last one
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Sweet! Glad you stuck with the green!
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[attach=3] I started working on plumbing and found out I forgot some stuff(2 An fittings) and some other the nylon braided line was bigger than 10an hose end so i had to order that stuff and a second fuel filter, rope ladder, cork vavle cover gaskets, 10 AN steel braid so i didnt get much done little electical, fuel pump mounted, n plumbed fuel pump to carb..
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nice progress! just a tip, trim down those stringer bolts. nothing sucks more than snagging your foot on those bad boys at the river. or turn em around so the long end is on the inside.
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okay so the fuel is all plumbed and half the water lines are done I'm thinking about putting the header gate valve up by the where I sit in the front what do you guys think of that? Also I'm trying to find out where I'm going to dump my stainless steel water dump either in the back of the boat or up front by too so I can see that the motor is always cycling water what do you guys think of that?
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Trying to get the picture right side up.... No thaughts on above questions
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Installed a new bilge dump so i can use the old ones for duel bilge pumps. Then i got her wired n went to get gas n trans fluid for pd got back home added gas and she just turned didnt really sputter so i tagged the gas n set a fire in the boat :banghead: so i decided that just checking if she will start without headers was not a good idea :screwy:. Put headers on n still no boom just rotates im stuck.
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typical checks. spark, timing/firing order, and are you getting fuel in the carb?
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I got gas. it's getting gas I can see you leave the carburetor into intake. e my spark plug from use with the other carburetor are kinda black so I'm a try new ones. but I also change dizzy cap n i don't know if the coill is bad or that little spring is making contact to coil it's underneath the coiln I got a couple miss fires when i change the timing but she didn't want to fire up? Smh
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I got gas. it's getting gas I can see you leave the carburetor into intake. e my spark plug from use with the other carburetor are kinda black so I'm a try new ones. but I also change dizzy cap n i don't know if the coill is bad or that little spring is making contact to coil it's underneath the coiln I got a couple miss fires when i change the timing but she didn't want to fire up? Smh
dizzy 180* out???
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dizzy 180* out???
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no I put the distributor in with it at Tdc um don't feel like its getting spark
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no I put the distributor in with it at Tdc um don't feel like its getting spark
pull a plug and crank it and see if you're getting spark.
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okay so I tried again this morning on my way out to work and I got a backfire to the carb you know what it sounds like a water drop I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow and try new ones and then I'll check for the spark I know I'm getting it I wouldn't get that backfired the carb
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Valves adjustment could be too tight hanging a valve.
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okay so I'm dumb I was 180 degrees out thanks fellas also my harmonic balancer has a slight wobble to it could I have not pressed it on tight enough?
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my harmonic balancer has a slight wobble to it could I have not pressed it on tight enough?
The press comes from clearance or interference between the crank snout and the Inside Diameter (ID) of the harmonic damper. Typically, the amount of interference, or how much smaller the ID of the damper is relative to the Outside Diameter (OD) of the crank shout determines how much press you have. Generally, the difference between OD and ID is around .001 per inch of diameter, depending on the class of fit.
When you installed it, you should have felt that it registered positively on the crank snout and then had a nice tight press while installing with an installation tool. You should have also felt the hub of the damper seat firmly against the crank sprocket, capturing it against the shoulder of the crankshaft.
As far as not pressing it on tight enough and without seeing it, the wobble has me a bit concerned. You don’t really have any control over the actual press fit of the damper unless you hone the ID or grind the OD of the crank. It is possible that with a used crank and used damper that either or both could have some wear and therefore have lost some interference. The ID of the damper could be on the large side of the tolerance and the OD of the crank could be on the small side to the point where there is not sufficient press between the mating diameters. It is possible that there is galling on the mating surfaces, preventing them from assembling straight or not having an interference fit. It is also possible that if the damper wasn’t seated all the way against the shoulder of the crank, the centripetal forces could cause unwanted movement of the damper, even damaging the hub or the snout resulting in a wobble.
It is hard to judge by the pictures, but it looks like the pulley alignment is good. If it is visibly off, that could indicate the damper is not installed all the way. Good news is that it looks easy to pull apart and see what’s going on. How did it feel going together?
P.S. How is the new job going?
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okay so I'm dumb I was 180 degrees out thanks fellas also my harmonic balancer has a slight wobble to it could I have not pressed it on tight enough?
The insulator on the balancer could be garbage but I highly doubt the balancer itself is wobbling.
-beerjet-
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Good news is that it looks easy to pull apart and see what’s going on. How did it feel going together?
P.S. How is the new job going?
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it went together okay you know like a pain in the ass just with the torque amount you put to it to get it on but the bolt pattern seems to be traveling perfect it just seems like the outer diameter travel of the outer ring has a slight wobble so maybe when they press that on it wasn't perfect or maybe it slipped which has me worried if my timing will be off because of that so I'm probably going to order a new one and call it a day
and the new job is going excellent thwy keep me busy as hell but they keep taking my days off away and asked me to work but I guess it's a good thing when you got f***** up harmonic balancer the replace
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okay so I went to adjust my timing today and I plug it up to the water hose that water run through it started it I was at 8 9 before TDC and I was going to take it out to 14 and as I did that I reved it a bit at 3000 check the advance tapped it to 4000 rpm and then got right off of it and started knock so I think I f***** up a piston bearing not too sure either way I'm f***** up
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Christ...hope its a piston bearing.
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okay so today I could open the oil filter and it looked like there was little metal pieces in a bit then when you touch them they tend to like dust and I found two small little metal shavings so I did probably cook the bearring. so now I gotta figure out what to do try to save this motor or purchase a new one or just sell this boat and screw it
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cut the oil filter and half today and it looked like I had little metal pieces in the filter and then when you went to pick them up they like or dust particles you like the turn to dust like ground fine metal I don't know if they're from the break in process because stillhas break in the oil or the bearing went I'm going to probably drain the oil fill it back up and sit in the water and see if it was just the play that I found in the drive line to the pump that was making a knock or the motor itself
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okay so I did a little bit more investigating today I disconnected the drive line and then pull the valve covers off and rotated the motor um to see if all the rockers and everything will lifting equally and checking for how to tifht everything was and number six cylinder on the first rocker which I believe is the exhaust that one has a lot of play also I fired it again and that side is ticking where the other side is not ticking also the knock seems to be either way less or gone like I can't really tell but its not as loud as it was when It was hooked up to the pump
also my oil pressure is now pegged out at 80 pounds and I'm not spitting oil out of my the pushrods in the heads I did put a new oil filter on it and filled it with maybe 2 3 inches the oil and then when I pulled it again to check it was like stuffed full n leaked everywhere when I went to take it off it didn't leak like that wheno out first time
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Glad the new job is going well. Yeah, the OT sucks when you want the time off, but that's not as bad as when you need it and don't get it.
This is a hydraulic cam engine? With the valve on its seat, can you push on the pushrod side of the rocker and depress the plunger in the lifter or does it feel like huge lash? Rotate the engine as if you were lashing valves and check all of the lifters this way. If you have debris flowing through the engine, it could end up in the lifters, causing the plunger to freeze or even blocking oil flow to the rockers. It can also get into the oil pump’s pressure relief bypass, causing it to stick which might be the cause of your oil pressure being tacked at 80PSI.
For all of these above reasons, I no longer run an oil filter system with a safety bypass. Knowing how much debris you are finding in your oil filter, bypassing any oil will send debris to the mains/rods and the lifters of cylinders 1-4 followed by the lifters in cylinders 5-8. I once lost an engine because of debris from a failed distributor gear bypassed the filter element altogether and went directly to the mains. Looking at the pics in Reply 58, I see that you are running a stock style filter in the block. I am not sure what it takes to remove the oil filter safety bypass in a Ford, but IMHO, that is high on my priority list. Knowing what I know now, I just can't bring myself to not do that.
Keep in mind that pressure is the result of resistance to flow. If you are seeing more pressure than usual, there must be increased resistance (blockage) to flow. Attached is a schematic of the BBF oil galleries. Looking at Reply 59, I see that you are tapping oil pressure for your gauge at the stock location in the rear of the block; at least you have a sending unit installed there. If you are seeing pressure at that location, you should be getting flow to mains and lifters. If you are tapping in at the oil filter, it is possible that you do have a blockage.
It is important to find the source of the debris. Something is going on that is causing it and it will not just go away until the engine does. If you will trouble shoot further, trying to get oil to the rockers, I suggest using a priming tool rather than running the engine.
Good luck,
Joe
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Oops, forgot the picture
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I think itd time to let someone who does this for a living take a look and fix I need to take my own advise an seek higher knowledge and help time to B.O.A.T :'(
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Sorry bud that this is turning into a headache....and I've been super busy. Hit me up next week...maybe you can bring it over and we'll get to the bottom of whats going on here.
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Sorry bud that this is turning into a headache....and I've been super busy. Hit me up next week...maybe you can bring it over and we'll get to the bottom of whats going on here.
thanks fellas Brad im just gonna unplug it and take it to HBR engines ill call you to test when shr gets home id rather bother you for that man
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Well she is empty again I'm back with to stage 1. what sucks the most is I keep getting parts that I ordered before she broke
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okay so I got word on my motor today and thank God it's not too bad the weird thing is that 1 the lifters broke which dude said he's never seen a lifter break like that before but that's just my luck so I took the cam out. so I'm going to get a custom ground cam I'm going to change the springs to something stronger in the heads while I'm there and maybe stainless steel valves roller rockers and start again
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so the plot thickens I talked to Rick today at HBR and my rod bearings are wearing unevenly he saidfor only having a couple hours of runtime that it is far more wear than normal n shouldn't be like that so we're going to have him check the hone around the rods and check the crank to make sure it was turned properly also you said the shams they used on the springs in the heads what kind of Mickey Mouse too so looks like I bought a motor that was cheap rebuilt. it's okay though cause we're going to get it right this time
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I know you boys like carnage so I'm gonna show you what happened the plate that holds the cam in shattered cam shifted caught the lifter lifter shattered. and then hear more pics that show the uneven wearing of my bearings
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Ooops forgot pics
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:mad:
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Herrs some more
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That is some serious loads on that cam thrust plate. Did you have a high pressure and high volume oil pump? How does the distributor gear look?
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That is some serious loads on that cam thrust plate. Did you have a high pressure and high volume oil pump? How does the distributor gear look?
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Yes on high volume pump
oil pressure was not high it was normal before it broke after its broke it was pegged at 80 and the distributor gear looks fine
they just did weird s*** with the motor like the piston wall hone was beautiful they decked it well they turned the crank well they just didn't check the the connecting rod hone For taper and they didn't bore gauge the bearings in the connecting rod the cam was way too small it was only like 230 or 214 duration um and then they put dish pistons not dome but concave down you know like a blower piston they're forged but with D three heads you lose compression to the 95cc chamber and then with those pistons I lost more compression form that I was probably around 8.3 to 1 the spring pressure in the head was only 80 to 90 pounds it varied they use the same size shim on everyone they didn't check to see if one needed more or less of Shim it was just a poorly built motor
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Something caused that plate to fail. Just saying that the majority of thrust loads on a cam come from the load of the oil pump through the distributor gear. How did the front cam bearing look?
I don't like high-volume pumps as oil pumps run in bypass anyway. Too much stress on the oil pump drive and everything associated and it works the oil unnecessarily.
Just a thought. Sorry for the bad luck.
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In my best rick flare voice "woooooo somebody is ported n polished" thanks Mr. Brock
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Paints on them is ugly yellow so what do u think green block yellow heads silver boat with purple pinstripe
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Roller rockers inYes
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Nice!! It's like jewelry for a guy.
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I got the new place diverter cylinder in and everything put back together and check no leaks and here's some pics it's not level but it's in there hehe
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Went and took a look at my short block its back together with the new camshaft and took a look at my cam card here's what i got also got a new double roller timing chain and a new high volume oil pump I will be selling the old 1 when it comes back
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If anybody is good at guessing compression ratio and horsepower my heads are dove heads that have been ported polished on the intake and exhaust side bigger stainless valves 220 and 173 on the exhaust and roller rockers 140 pound Springs all the blending work has taking my cc on the heads from 76 to 83 we r going to mill the heads and try to get some of that back
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I did fiberglass to retab my gas tanks and I just needed to make it through the season because after this season I'm going to get ImCo tanks I know it's not right but I used two layers of 17 04 08 mat and three layers of finishing cloth on top of that so hopefully it holds
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So my motor made 470 horse it had 525lbs of torque at 2800 rpm and 510lbs at 4800 so stoked
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Got the motor back in got most of it put back together still need to do a little electrical and change my valve covers and get gas
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Okay so she seems to be running OK. All the electrical finished I went bought a new alternator today I need to put that in tomorrow I'm waiting for some new sending units to come in on Friday should put the seats in tomorrow I got video but I don't know how to post it so I'll put some pictures up tomorrow
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great job!
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Looks great......
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She is a whole boat finally just have to button some small stuff up
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Very curious to see how those roller rockers hold up.
Good job!
-beerjet-
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Why do you say hold up beerjet
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Why do you say hold up beerjet
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Those rockers have been known to loose rollers. Just keep an eye on them. Run your valves often and make it a habit. I run valves every day on both boats
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Those rockers have been known to loose rollers. Just keep an eye on them. Run your valves often and make it a habit. I run valves every day on both boats
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For dummy's run your valves? Explain why pls
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For dummy's run your valves? Explain why pls
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Adjusting your valves. After running for a wile. The rockers can get a tad loose. Especially because you don't have a stud girdle.
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Why do you say hold up beerjet
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The trunions on those are smaller than say the golds.
I had the original magnum roller rockers with the rebuildable trunions and they were huge compared to other economical rocker arms.
I believe Comps Cams updated the Magnums and/or they are putting the Jegs logo on the old ones now.
Even just looking at some side by side, the Jegs rocker arms are head and shoulders above most.
-beerjet-
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Okay so she ran good today I just need to close the water inlet on my pump down a little bit more because my operating temp was like only 160 ish at idle but I would drop way down to like 130 128 or so when I got on it had a little leak just had to tighten up one of my an fittings that was it. and tighten up the nuts on the pump where you're packing seal are so it was just a drip cause when I first put it in the water it was a stream. The wind picked up so I only idled around n make to quick passes only to about 4000 rpm because water was sooo rough . she didn't seem very fast though idk need some glass or the river to try on
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How do you guys post vids
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Nice boat...
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i have a pic of my flatty sitting next to this boat in lake elsinore parking lot last summer.. :)
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you have to throw that picture away because it had a Chevy in it and we'll have to meet up and take a picture with the Ford
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lmfao... that bbc blew up that day if it makes you feel better!! my boat has a bbc as well.. >:D
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Your temps are fine btw...
-beerjet-
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Okay so she ran good today I just need to close the water inlet on my pump down a little bit more because my operating temp was like only 160 ish at idle but I would drop way down to like 130 128 or so when I got on it had a little leak just had to tighten up one of my an fittings that was it. and tighten up the nuts on the pump where you're packing seal are so it was just a drip cause when I first put it in the water it was a stream. The wind picked up so I only idled around n make to quick passes only to about 4000 rpm because water was sooo rough . she didn't seem very fast though idk need some glass or the river to try on
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Leave the water valve alone.
It couldn't be more dead nuts if you had an Oompa Loompa adjusting it while under way ..
JMHO.
GT
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Your temps are fine btw...
-beerjet-
Yup. ..
So are yours.. :o
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I had read from lakesonly he runs his at 180 and it will drop to 160 so confused
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I had read from lakesonly he runs his at 180 and it will drop to 160 so confused
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That's his preference.
-beerjet-
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It couldn't be more dead nuts if you had an Oompa Loompa adjusting it while under way ..
GT
LOL
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We're going to get be getting back into this thing again here soon I hate having the go fast bug. Upgrade coming soon
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Okay so we did a lot of work and I haven't showed you guys so some of it's just gonna be photo updates on new pump, steering cable, ignition switch, cap coil rotor, starter, and battery. today I solved my fuel leak problem and reseal the pump again cause I was taking on water after the pump was put in so here you go
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So I took her out she ran hard no leaks from fuel or jet but I did have some trouble diverter switch bilge switch and fuel pump switch all at separate times shut my motor off. All run through ignition switch I checked all grounds and it only shuts down here n there I'm stumped...
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