hello everyone out there. im new to this site. i like it very muchee. well i bought this boat in 06 finally started workin on it. redid the carpet. got the pump made 4 a smallblock chevy 383 strocker that i was gonna put in my 1980 cheyenne shortbed sold it due to smog laws. its a 383 400 crank probe pistons bored 60 over world heads 202/160 64 cc castiron comp cams hyd1800 to6000 in.274 ex286 @ 50 in.230 ex 236 w/1.5 rocker in. 490 ex. 490 lobe sep angle 110. edelbrock rpm air gap intake holley 700.msd ready to run dist ignitionbox w/rev limitor. boat came with no motor pump or mounts. it sits on a dual axlr trailer with buddy brakes and the tounge of the trailer swings. i got it for $2000 from a friend @ work. i know your supposed to put a big block in a get. but i have my strocker ready to go. dont have enough cheddar to put a BBC. IS THIS ENOUGH POWER TO GET MY BOAT MOVIN? I WILL POST PICTURES OF MY BOAT N MOTOR SOON. IF ANYBODY HAS FAITH IN SBC PLEASE HELP ME I REALLY WANT TO GET OUT ON THE WATER THIS SUMMER. THANKS

started building a 385 stroker for a boat, but never finished that project...i would say if you had the jet set-up probably for the sbc then you should be ok...one of my concerns is that you built this motor to run on the street throwing it in a boat might cause some problems as jet-boats and boats in general are a little different...you should be running a little more tolerance/clearance in your motor...sounds like you put a froged piston in it too which is a good thing, but and fyi they expand alot from heat especially in a jet motor and the possibility of locking it up is there...sounds like a good project anytime i hear sb in a jet i get all excited because i am a small block fan...i know josh at jet boat performance is running a sbf in his beezer, and that puppy runs

Welcome aboard, I am a huge small block fan, but gave in to peer pressure LOL..

As for the clearance deal, my solution would be to put a water pump on the engine with a thermostat kit and you will be golden....

Let me know if you need help with this, I have the parts in the tool shed to get this done, there are a lot of these setups out there so don't laugh...   $150 in parts will keep you from tearing into a fresh build....

BTW, Pics or it didn't happen 

GT

welcome

thanks guys. the water pump that i need to use is it a cam driven pump? i took some nice pictures today but i must be doin somthing wrong cause they are not showin up  :banghead:do i need a crossover with thermostat w/bypass aswell or do i use a t valve? motor has never bin fired needs to hit the dyno??? lets see if i can get those pictures up.

i have a housing water pump, and hoses for a sbc boat app

No problem I have a marine omc water pump and thermostat housing...ran it with a edel. Torker2 with no problems to speak of...it isn't the prettiest piece but with some paint you won't notice it really it was also ran with headers, and all that and worked great...just make offer I'll see if I can pull up any pics when I get home or I'll take some

cleareance issues.

funny v-drives, and i/o's have water pumps...wouldnt make a difference really...seen a few water pumps on jet-boats...also pops engine builder out of oregon told me the exact same thing...said if you were to run a water pump you wouldnt half to worry about clearance issues vs the aspect of a non waterpump normal jet set-up...i left it at that and never asked for more, but im sure glenn would no in detail why...the engine builder cant remember the name of his shop was the one to explain this, and i guess he is a prominant engine builder for these marathon sprint boat types of companies...believe he is out of medford area

no i cannot, but it probably has something to do with the thermostat housing itself, and the waterpump working in conjuntion...

I got lost there real quick too Skip!  Thanks for explaining it, kinda, guys. Actually putting my brain into action (a rare occurrance) on this, and kinda makes sense to run a water pump/t-stat in a way.

Gonna think about this for a bit, but intruducing the water from the jet at the tstat housing, and hooking the headers and o/b dump there also is going to starve the engine of water until the t-stat opens (assuming the block IS full of water to begin with, if it isn't, the t-stat will NEVER open, it's at the highest point on the engine cooling system so the block needs to be pretty full less expansion).

That would be my only real concern as I see it right now. I would probably tap the water from the jet into the rear water jackets in the heads and run a pressure releif valve off the jet as well. But then the headers are gonna run dry until the t-stat opens as well. maybe run the header T off the jet drive as well and push in from the back of the cylinder heads? Brain may fry on this one! (How to bleed the air out of it?).

Good food for thought though! Great excercise!

Ray

Still a bunch of horse shit that you don't need to mess with, do it right, the first time.
End
 

so what is the right the first time?? its wut i got and no im not using a radiator. thanks alot for those of you out there trying to help me its greately appreciated.

I'm trying to help you, simplicity is your best friend. The difference in clearances between street engines and marine engines is about .005 on your piston to cylinder wall, and .002 on your mains. If you just had the thing built then it's not a big deal to open it up and get the proper clearances, hit up Engine Doctor on here. He'll set you right.

Good luck, keep us posted.