wow
Just saw this, holy crap....
First, the water pump I am referring to has nothing at all to to with getting the water from the lake to the engine, it has to do with recirculating the water in the block and heads to regulate the temps to the gnats ass.
Second, since when is it easier to tear down a fresh engine, hone the cylinders, machine the crank, all new gaskets and so on than to install a water pump (four bolts that will need to be torqued anyways) and a thermostat housing (which is needed no matter what setup is used)...I don't get that argument at all....
The water pump prevents all cold shock and temperature regulation issues, so the engine does not have to be touched as far as clearances. We do it all of the time for Northwest engines because of the 40+/- degree water temps...
Trust me on this one, I can even get you some of the stuff gratis...That's free of charge for you gringo's (I am white as rice BTW

)
Hope that answers some of the questions.....This thing will run 160*F all day long, you don't want to go much warmer because organic compounds start to stick above that and (probably does not apply here) salt crystalizes at 170*F..
Anybody else?

Have I ever steered someone wrong?

GT