SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: stc315 on December 10, 2009, 02:57:32 PM
-
Ok, changing gears again. I got rid of the Record 7 and bought Marc's Eliminator.
Here's what I need to complete her by next summer
Place Diverter & stringer mount handle
starter (BBF)
Alternator & brackets
fuel pump & regulator (4 port)
2 Dominator Carbs (9375)
Scoop & pan w/filter
plumbing and fuel lines
redrill motor mounts
rebuild driveline (new ujoints)
swap out guages
install stereo (have to make billet plate to cover gaping hole in dash and get waterproof bezel)
put it all together (including figuring out wiring and switch to weatherpack connectors, ever since I saw them on Skip's boat I've wanted them)
fill it with race gas & dial it all in.
Getting closer!
-
good looking boat, congrats and good luck with the project, keep the pics coming :thumbup:
-
Thanks, I owe it all to Skip and Marc!!!! ;D
-
Looks like you spent some time cleaning up that interior , Looks good!
-
Looks like you spent some time cleaning up that interior , Looks good!
Yeah it does, good job Sam. As for the parts you need, I'm sure that someone on here has stuff in the garage that's taking up space, I know for a fact the Jim Brock has your motor mounts, an alt bracket, he's got so much shit I don't know what he's got, but I'm sure if you give him a call, he'll hook you up.
Keep us posted!
-
Got your starter. Alt brackets are in the works (CJ mounts I bought my lil brother is duplicating) and a set I'll reserve for you when he's got it down.
Ray
-
I have a set of 4 point mounts! And on the starter , how much compression are you running and is the timing locked out?
-
Thanks guys, I've got the motor mounts, just need to drill new holes since they came out of narrow stringer boat. I've already been talking to Jim about the Diverter situation.
Ray is that starter a high torque mini starter. I'm going to get a high torque mini since I'm running high compression. As for the alt. brackets, I'm definitely gonna want those.
Heres some of the stuff I'm going to be selling or trading
Floor mount place diverter, some unused guages, & SB Chevy Edelbrock Victor Ram Throttle linkage kit (thought it was BBC kit that I could modify).
-
I have a set of 4 point mounts! And on the starter , how much compression are you running and is the timing locked out?
Are they the mounts you were using? I'm at least 11:1 if not higher like 12 or 13:1
-
Been awhile since I even looked at this. Starters std, mounts not ready 'til spring methinks. Lil Bro's got a really full plate building molds right now.
Starter should not be an issue at 11-12:1. I'm running 11 to 11.5 or better and works just fine. But it's yours is you need it.
Ray
-
Thanks Ray, keep me posted on the Alt mounts.
Sam
-
Engine pics
-
Are they the mounts you were using? I'm at least 11:1 if not higher like 12 or 13:1
what pistons and what heads do you have, how big is the motor.
please take the oil pressure reading from the back of the block not the front. the back is the last place to see pressure and the front is the first. so you want to know how much you have after it has went through the motor, not before.
note: i ran two guages on mine so i could see the pressure difference (loss) through the motor.
sorry for the ramble
ralph
-
I believe they are Venolia pop ups. It's offset ground crank for 4.15 stroke, so that should equal 501cid. Thanks for the info on the oil press. Luckily I've only ever taken press reading from back of BBFs. I never thought of reading it from front. I like the two guage idea, but I have no room for a second one. I already had to give up fuel guage. I'm running Tach, OP, WT, & Voltmeter.
-
Sam please call me re the Impeller you left at the shop Thanks Tom
-
what pistons and what heads do you have, how big is the motor.
please take the oil pressure reading from the back of the block not the front. the back is the last place to see pressure and the front is the first. so you want to know how much you have after it has went through the motor, not before.
note: i ran two guages on mine so i could see the pressure difference (loss) through the motor.
sorry for the ramble
ralph
2 1/8 hole saw and we can put as many gauges in there as you want sam!!!!!
-
i saw the sender next to the fuel pump block off so i thought you were getting it from there.
is this the motor that tom had
-
Ralph that the drag race motor I got from Bruce in LB (squeezin spectras) a couple years back Tom
-
i saw the sender next to the fuel pump block off so i thought you were getting it from there.
is this the motor that tom had
I wasn't planning on using that one. I've always used the one in back.
-
I wasn't planning on using that one. I've always used the one in back.
That actually got me thinking. Why not use it? I would think a more accurate, and pertinent, oil pressure reading would be as far away from the pump as you can get.
Just thinking out loud.......... :sly:
Ray
-
That actually got me thinking. Why not use it? I would think a more accurate, and pertinent, oil pressure reading would be as far away from the pump as you can get.
Just thinking out loud.......... :sly:
Ray
Cause it's a FORD and the oil pump is in the front! :screwy:
-
That actually got me thinking. Why not use it? I would think a more accurate, and pertinent, oil pressure reading would be as far away from the pump as you can get.
Just thinking out loud.......... :sly:
Ray
read again Ray
please take the oil pressure reading from the back of the block not the front. the back is the last place to see pressure and the front is the first. so you want to know how much you have after it has went through the motor, not before.
note: i ran two guages on mine so i could see the pressure difference (loss) through the motor.
sorry for the ramble
ralph
-
OOOOPSI! My Bad guys........Have my Chebbie hat on this week........ :screwy:
Ray
-
Must be tuff going both ways ;D
-
Update.
Today I pick up mount feet from shop (having holes welded up) special thanks to Boost for the rear feet!!! I spent $26 at Lowes (Sorry Ray) on stainless hardware for the mounts (I still need to go back and get two more bolts and nuts). Made a bracket for my Rex marine header water valve. Mounted MSD box & rev limiter on the back of the rear bench seat. Bolted up front motor mount plate to engine. Today my diverter will arrive and a bunch of wire and hardware from Summit will be here. Got stereo and guages in place. Need to mount amp and wire up the dash. I need to run over to Lowes or Holmes Depot and get the 10 guage wires for start, ign., and ground. Also need to pick up some of that convoluted wire wrap stuff and I'll be ready to re-wire whole harness. Does anyone have a spare terminal block (the kind that bolts up to back of the engine block) laying around they want to get rid of? I haven't decided if I'm going to use one of those or the weather pack connector idea I stole from Skip. Does anyone know how big of a wire the weatherpack can take? Can it handle the 10ga.?
-
Sam-
1. **** Homo Depot, despite the fact Ray works there, I won't shop there.
2. **** the terminal block, go weatherpacks from Summit
3. Get that beast ready!
The weather packs only take 14-16 GA wire. You shouldn't have anything bigger than that in your loom. I only used it for the engine connections, the battery, starter, alternator wire were ran seperately
-
STOP!!!!! Sam!
Do NOT run THHN AC wire in your boat or any automotive/marine application! That is all we, and Lowes, sells. It will not last and is an extreme safety hazard. Don't make me post pics of the burning boat again.
You need to run at least automtive rated wire, first and foremost. Insulation is different, as is the individual guages of the wires and "lay" of the spiral of those wires to make whatever guage. Skip is right, can't see a reason for 10 guage anywhere really.
I like the terminal block Idea. I really like the way it's done on my Pickle, on the stringer. Moo's kinda sux being on the engine though. Haven't looked into the weather packs, might not be a bad idea either, my only concern is any upgrades or changes, could be a lot more hassle.
Ray
-
Update.
Got headers, place diverter, most of wiring to make new harness.
Still need list;
Carpet & Install (Lowes has Gray carpet for 2.58 per foot 6' wide)
Re-wire
Install guages and stereo
Re-install interior
Battery
Alternator
Alternator brackets
Starter
Intake
Dominator carb
Fuel Pump & plumbing
Scoop
Install motor
Have headers coated
Register it
Get name, reg #, and Eliminator stickers made
Install diverter
I'm probably forgetting something. But we're getting there.
-
I just bought 4 rolls of carpet from these guys.
http://www.boatcarpetbuys.com/Scripts/default.asp (http://www.boatcarpetbuys.com/Scripts/default.asp)
Easy, ships fast. I'll post pics of the Sewer Pickle before and after. Looks like good stuff. HD and Lowes had CRAP, no Green, and their "good" stuff was more expensive than this was. Their textured works out to $1.64 a square yard! Friggin cheap! The luxury I didn't figure out as I kinda hafta anyway on the big boat....... :screwy: But it ain't that much more expensive. They didn't have green in Luxury, but they have burgundy!!! :thumbup:
Also, You may want to consider a Painless wiring harness. Just thinking out loud.
Ray
-
Lowes had a gray that matchs interior & paint and is much cheaper. $25.80 for 10x6. I think that should be more than enough to do all my boat. Plus if I need a few feet more, it's only 15 mins drive.
For wiring, I've already bought all the 16 ga wires, just need to get 12ga wires. Got to go to stereo store to find better quality stuff in the length I need.
Sam
-
Sam-
1. **** Homo Depot, despite the fact Ray works there, I won't shop there.
2. **** the terminal block, go weatherpacks from Summit
3. Get that beast ready!
The weather packs only take 14-16 GA wire. You shouldn't have anything bigger than that in your loom. I only used it for the engine connections, the battery, starter, alternator wire were ran seperately
I 86ed the terminal block too, it was crap. this is what I ended up with-
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi175.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw123%2Fporkersracing%2FSanger%2FDSC_0468.jpg&hash=870222f8f19abd1abeb4f2f2e44a7156fc06c31a)
-
Update.
Got headers, place diverter, most of wiring to make new harness.
Still need list;
Carpet & Install (Lowes has Gray carpet for 2.58 per foot 6' wide)
Re-wire
Install guages and stereo
Re-install interior
Battery
Alternator
Alternator brackets
Starter
Intake
Dominator carb
Fuel Pump & plumbing
Scoop
Install motor
Have headers coated
Register it
Get name, reg #, and Eliminator stickers made
Install diverter
I'm probably forgetting something. But we're getting there.
yeah its called:
Ice
Beer
cooler
-
That looks very clean. I installed all my ignition stuff on back of bench seat.
And yes, Ice Beer Cooler is definitely on the list!!! lol ;D
-
Got a lil something done this morning. My drivers side fuel tank was loose. So I sanded down the tank and floor and re-glassed the tank down. I only redid the three factory spots, but I got to thinking maybe once I've got all the old carpet glue up, I might just run a strip of glass all the way down the edge of the tank. I had a lil issue with the resin too. I think I messed up my resin/hardener ratio because by the time I was laying second layer on 3rd strip, the resin was globbing up. Hope that won't effect the durability. Anyway, Check that off the list of stuff to do! ;D
-
Bought some parts today ;D Intake & Domi carb and BG 280 fuel pump & regulator (on RacingJunk for $180!!!) Makin progress!
-
Got an old school fiberglass scoop and had tray cut to fit domi. I will post pics when I get a chance. I'm bummed out the polisher I had is in jail and the chrome/polishing shop is possibly out of business. Guess I'm stuck with raw finish on my intake! :banghead: