SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: vwagon13 on October 17, 2015, 10:59:12 AM
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So you've got a $10,000 motor and a $7,000 pump all brand new and you need to "break" both in.BTW, all this is installed in your 6/10K$ hull and trailer. A sizeable investment in time,money and effort. A person really doesn't want to repeat any of this again, not really. So what is the process to "break" your new motor and pump in? On the trailer on the hose, in the water on the trailer?? What did you do? How'd it work for you? Any advice to share? Just asking and Thanks.
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I'd run the engine in the boat, not hooked up to the pump, on the hose. Same as if it were in a car. The pump just run it in the water.
Garrett
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Is it a hydrolic cam?
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So you've got a $10,000 motor and a $7,000 pump all brand new and you need to "break" both in.BTW, all this is installed in your 6/10K$ hull and trailer. A sizeable investment in time,money and effort. A person really doesn't want to repeat any of this again, not really. So what is the process to "break" your new motor and pump in? On the trailer on the hose, in the water on the trailer?? What did you do? How'd it work for you? Any advice to share? Just asking and Thanks.
I'd be nervous as well. Those are questions for your engine builder.
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Disconnect the pump, it doesn't require any break in. However, running it dry can cause damage.
First, the packings require lubrication provided by water actually leaking. On a new pump, the packings are installed fairly tight initially. Pressure in the suction housing will force water between the packings and the shaft. If you are using the graphite impregnated packings, you will start to see some black tracing where water has dripped from the packings. The black is loose graphite that has been carried with the dripping water. Monitor the dripping while under way. The drip rate should be about one drip every ten seconds. If the drip rate is excessive, tighten the packing clamp nuts evenly by about a quarter turn and continue to monitor and repeat. If the packings are leaking excessively, it can cause damage to the pump. On the hit, the impeller could pull air through the packings, pseudo cavitation which could damage the impeller and bowl. If water is spraying out, the thrust bearing could suffer water contamination. Running the pump on the hose can not supply enough water to the packings to provide sufficient cooling and lubrication.
Next, the clearance between the impeller and wear ring of a performance clearanced pump is critical to performance and efficiency. While towing, crud and road grime finds its way into the pump. Running it dry will cause abrasion of both the wear ring and impeller wear surface. Performance and life are reduced. In fact, if you are running a stainless impeller and stainless wear ring and the two come into contact while running, gauling will occur and could seize them together. A stainless impeller and wear ring require water for lubrication. Again, the garden hose just doesn't cut it.
With a race prepped pump, you will need to make changes to your boating practices. When you launch, dunk the boat quickly with the reverse bucket open, then pull the boat out to flush debris from the pump. If you feel your startup procedure warrants firing the engine out of water, it can be fired after flushing the pump, but only for a few seconds.
Do not drive the boat on/off the beach. Push it out waist-deep and bounce the stern a few times to flush sand from the pump. It's hard to believe, but one grain of sand in between the impeller and wear ring is enough to stall a big block or spin the wear ring right out of the suction housing.
Lastly, there is absolutely no reason to run the engine dry after the boat is back on the trailer. Revving the engine on the launch ramp is not going to blow the last few ounces of water out of the pump. It will take life out of your engine and pump.
There's a lot of opinions on this topic and some feel that it is perfectly acceptable to run the pump dry or on the hose. We always recommend that you don't run the pump dry. If you have to run it dry, keep it to the absolute minimum run time. Bottom line, it's your boat and your money; do what you feel is right.
Good luck,
Joe
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So you've got a $10,000 motor and a $7,000 pump all brand new and you need to "break" both in.BTW, all this is installed in your 6/10K$ hull and trailer. A sizeable investment in time,money and effort. A person really doesn't want to repeat any of this again, not really. So what is the process to "break" your new motor and pump in? On the trailer on the hose, in the water on the trailer?? What did you do? How'd it work for you? Any advice to share? Just asking and Thanks.
I did mine in the street where it was level, my driveway was sloped.
Disconnect your pump.
Hook up your garden hose to the inlet securely.
I turned on my water so the stream out the exit landed about 4-5 feet from the boat.
My engine build was all about the cam break in, very specific, 2500rpm for 30 minutes, then oil change.
Watch your gauges closely.
I did a compression check after break in and use this as a reference even today.
I never run hard until my oil temp is up, this takes a good 10 minutes of cruising in my boat.
Did you do the build yourself or have it done at a shop?
I read every detail on every part I used and followed the manufacturers recommendations.
Yes I was nervous through the entire process. 4 years later engine still running great.
Enjoy :beer:
Oh yea where's the pics
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You gentlemen bring to mind things all jet boaters need to remember but forget:double dipping at launch,ditto when beaching,or not beaching at all,the importence of disconnecting pump when doing motor work. All things I don't do when dealing with my barge from time to time. Thanks to all for your valuable information!!👍👍👍
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One last thought, if you will be running a new set of headers, you might consider break in and tuning with an old set. The break in procedure generates a lot of heat as does a lean condition with EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature). You don't want to burn up new headers first thing.
Good luck and don't forget the pictures.
Joe
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Ok. You ask for it.....and thank you!
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More: Thanks again!:-)
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Don't burn up those beautiful headers
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Looks really good. Looking forward to seeing it on the water
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Flusher,when we meet up I'll shake your hand and buy the shots, Thank you.
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My pleasure. I would love to go for a ride.