SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: repoman on February 15, 2009, 12:53:56 AM
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got rid of the 76 hondo i scored for 950...i got to keep the motor, exhaust, fuel tanks and any other little thing i wanted. i traded the guy for a 76 hallett bubble deck. it has a berk pump and he is rebuilding it for me...(he owns a jet boat shop)...im also getting a place diverter and what ever nozzle attachment i need for the boat to run in the water right...i.e. a droop snoop or a wedge or whatever.
i have my 460 getting machined right now. should be done in a week or so. boat should be in the water in a month or so...maybe a little longer. ill keep you guys posted and ill put new pics up when they are created.
mike
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Deja Vu
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The guy traded you straight across drop that Ford and your in the water.
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yep...the trailer has a few chips but it is sick....it has a hidden wheel in the front that drops down...imma have this puppy running asap
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Deja Vu
i know i know....but this is a project thread....im going to put pictures up that show the shit and not something nice till the vary end.
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Very similar to the Hallett i just picked up, lookin good! You gonna run a 460 in that thing? What kind of pump does it have and what kind of trailer is it on?
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nice score, congrats ;D now back to work and get the pics coming ;D
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something about that red and white i love it...nice find...good luck with the build
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mudpumper has/had an identical boat to that...white with the red metal flake too...who knows, maybe its the same one....cant keep track of all the boat swappin thats been goin on.
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mudpumper has/had an identical boat to that...white with the red metal flake too...who knows, maybe its the same one....cant keep track of all the boat swappin thats been goin on.
he sure does...i talked briefly with him on pb...same exact color. it had some stains and oxidation but i spent some time with the buffer and a wool pad then to a foam pad and it shines like new! the trailer is pretty sick as well. it has a hidden wheel under the front of the trailer that pops down when needed. im stoked!!! im heading out right now to do some light repair to the stringers...(not really repair but i need to fill the motor mount holes and re-glass over my fill work) ill put some pics up...sleep??? whats that???? :screwy:
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Very similar to the Hallett i just picked up, lookin good! You gonna run a 460 in that thing? What kind of pump does it have and what kind of trailer is it on?
yes, i am gonna run a 460 bbf. the machinist is doing some port work to the block as well as a valve job and a full port and polish to the heads. fully polished and balanced bottom end with KE hyper pistons and all marine gaskets...(duh)...running a comp cam and roller rockers. tunnel ram with 850 holly dbl pmpr. should be an honest 450hp with the ability to run 6000rpm when i want to screw with my buddies!!! ;D
the pump is a berk...jg i believe...with a split bowl, droop(if the boat runs wet otherwise a performance housing,) a impeller and place diverter...all fresh! the entire pump is getting powder coated the red color minus the shoe which is going to be black. the motor mounts are going to be the same red as well. its all going to start coming together so stay tuned...the next 2 days are my days off....thats when the most work gets done.
the trailer is a big ? its super nice tho...it needs to be sprayed one day but it will do for now...ill shoot some pix tonight and get them on later.
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well...i drove all the way out to my shop...about 21 miles...to get my drill and some other tools and get going on fixing up my stringers. there was a small hole that looked like the bolt for the motor mount was way to tight and sucked in a little bit. a short while after digging in i knew there was a problem. turns out the little area of "rotted" wood that i was going to remove was more than i expected.
the question i have for whoever is this; can i simply repair or should i re-stringer the one stringer?
i drilled some small holes throughout the stringer and noticed the wood that came out was like a golden brown color but it felt wet. the wood close to the motor mount holes are dark. if i press on the stringer you can see it move slightly but not to excessive. if i put stress on the stringer it still feels vary strong. if i tap on it, it almost sound a little hollow.
the problem area is from the transom forward about 4 ft. then its solid as a rock. the other stringer is like a rock. how much should i expect to pay to have this fixed...and/or replaced? the guy i have been dealing with most likely will do the work and probably do it for free but just in case that heads south. i don't think it will cause he is about as honest as they get.
anyway...have any of you guys seen this and can i simply tear the glass off the bad area, remove the bad stuff, let the rest dry, build up if needed with some gorilla hair, and re glass? am i asking for futher problems??? i almost feel that most of the wood is ok but because of the moisture, the resin let go. in my mind i feel i can fix-er up but i dont know. its worth fixing because of how nice the rest of the boat is. just a speed bump in my way.
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I would think you could just cut out the bad part of the stringer and attach new wood to it. That being said, if it was my boat, I'd go with new stringers, check your transom wood as well.
If you're going to run a BBF I suggest you go to Paul Kane's website and have your machinist do his oiling mods.
http://www.highflowdynamics.com/ (http://www.highflowdynamics.com/)
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transom wood is fine...it looked a little dark but its just stained on part. oil i guess. its solid tho. i will have him look into it. the guy says he has a tom of experience with the 460. i trust him but i will def let him know to check it out. thanks
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I don't know, that rot looks terminal. I think you need to send the whole thing down to me (minus the Ford) with title so I can dispose of it for you ;D >:D ;)
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$$$ ;D ;D ;D...not...lol...im keeping this one. but really...any advise??
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boy that looks familiar
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=2097.0 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=2097.0)
do it rite and put the new stringers
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Ok, if you're going to repair the rotted part of the stringer I would suggest doing a finger joint on a 45* angle where you join the old and new wood, maybe even sister it with some thin stainless strips about a foot or more each way of the joint on either side.
You'd do yourself a HUGE favor by having your machinist follow Paul Kane's oiling mods, my guy wasn't offended at all when I had him do mine, in fact he now does that to all his BBF projects.
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That really sucks about the stringer...I hope that you get iit properly worked out
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mudpumper has/had an identical boat to that...white with the red metal flake too...who knows, maybe its the same one....cant keep track of all the boat swappin thats been goin on.
I thought the exact same thing when I saw it- killer looking barge- glitter's on a come back O0
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well i talked with the guy and we are going to replace that stringer...his expert knowledge and my$$$$ for materials. works for me!! he said about 100-125 for all the glass and enough wood for the one stringer. should have it in his shop in a week or so. the i can have him set my loader as well. like i said...small speed bump. all worked out now.
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Excellent, looking forward to seeing it down here this summer ;D
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Excellent, looking forward to seeing it down here this summer ;D
will do my best thats for sure!!! i would love to head down!!!
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repot depot-
I had a vision of your seats, we need to talk ;D
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well lets talk!!!...lol...ill pm you my number and you can give me a ring on tues... the seats are gonna be on hold for a little while tho...the engine guy called me today and my rods and crank are toast. instead of finding cores and paying for all the machining im gonna do all eagle shit. all forged! the rotating assemly cost about 1700. after the motor is done the seats are next. motor should be done and paid for early next month. this motor is going to be out of this world. im thinking about 650hp all said and done...maybe a little less.
im down for the interior for sure tho...i also have a friend that wants just the glass buckets. maybe you could ship all together and i could save some money.
thanks
mike
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well lets talk!!!...lol...ill pm you my number and you can give me a ring on tues... the seats are gonna be on hold for a little while tho...the engine guy called me today and my rods and crank are toast. instead of finding cores and paying for all the machining im gonna do all eagle shit. all forged! the rotating assemly cost about 1700. after the motor is done the seats are next. motor should be done and paid for early next month. this motor is going to be out of this world. im thinking about 650hp all said and done...maybe a little less.
im down for the interior for sure tho...i also have a friend that wants just the glass buckets. maybe you could ship all together and i could save some money.
thanks
mike
for 1700 you can get a stroker kit and go over 500 ci
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for 1700 you can get a stroker kit and go over 500 ci
How 'bout 552 for under $1300?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/429-460-Ford-Stroker-Kit,5530.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/429-460-Ford-Stroker-Kit,5530.html)
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How 'bout 552 for under $1300?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/429-460-Ford-Stroker-Kit,5530.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/429-460-Ford-Stroker-Kit,5530.html)
you get what you pay for ::)
How about a 552 cubic inch monster motor for the street? This rotating assembly allows you to turn your 429 or 460 Ford Big Block into a stump pulling monster. Kit includes a new 4-1/2" stroke Scat cast steel crankshaft, new 6.7" Scat I-beam connecting rods, Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, Clevite rod and main bearings and plasma moly rings.
Pistons are available in .030 and .060 oversize which give you 545-552 cubic inches. 74cc heads yield 11.4-1 and 97cc is 9.8-1. As with any stroker kit, you will need to check for clearance between connecting rods and block. This assembly will require balancing with your balancer and flywheel.
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you get what you pay for ::)
How about a 552 cubic inch monster motor for the street? This rotating assembly allows you to turn your 429 or 460 Ford Big Block into a stump pulling monster. Kit includes a new 4-1/2" stroke Scat cast steel crankshaft, new 6.7" Scat I-beam connecting rods, Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, Clevite rod and main bearings and plasma moly rings.
Pistons are available in .030 and .060 oversize which give you 545-552 cubic inches. 74cc heads yield 11.4-1 and 97cc is 9.8-1. As with any stroker kit, you will need to check for clearance between connecting rods and block. This assembly will require balancing with your balancer and flywheel.
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Is SCAT stuff not good? Other than the Hypers I don't see anything wrong with that kit, but I'm a dumbass when it comes to that stuff, what's the dealio big boy?
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yeah dont like the hypers or the I-beams, for a few hundy more you can upgrade to the h-beam and forged and be done with it. just a personal preference, although the I-beams would probably be ok ;)
i got my stuff from
http://www.adperformance.com/ (http://www.adperformance.com/)
great customer service and gives frequent advise on the 460 forum, and for me when you take the time out to give advise and not just sell parts. well you get the point :-\
on a side note, if they knew about bbf's they would know the rod to block clearance wouldn't be a prob :-*
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gotchya! oh yeah, Good Morning Ralph (https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.desicomments.com%2Fgraphics%2Fgoodmorning%2F08.gif&hash=e7ef8c965007c0798f97e0eab54a8c7f260fe940)
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gotchya! oh yeah, Good Morning Ralph (https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.desicomments.com%2Fgraphics%2Fgoodmorning%2F08.gif&hash=e7ef8c965007c0798f97e0eab54a8c7f260fe940)
love ya babe :-*
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love ya babe :-*
man...i thought it was just my buddies that talk that way...lol...
i think i will be doing the stroker kit. my only problem with scat it there a b**** to balance...expensive!!! maybe ill get lucky. what do you guys think my rpm with be with this kit???
the eagle kit was a forged crank, rods, and pistons....all pre balanced
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yeah dont like the hypers or the I-beams, for a few hundy more you can upgrade to the h-beam and forged and be done with it. just a personal preference, although the I-beams would probably be ok ;)
i got my stuff from
http://www.adperformance.com/ (http://www.adperformance.com/)
great customer service and gives frequent advise on the 460 forum, and for me when you take the time out to give advise and not just sell parts. well you get the point :-\
on a side note, if they knew about bbf's they would know the rod to block clearance wouldn't be a prob :-*
so i checked them out... http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277_282
these are all fe blocks....they are like 1500 bucks...
this is what im doing...http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71_234&products_id=847...but im upgrading to forged h beam...gonna order it in about 20 min... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
the total is 1030+125 for forged+169 for bearings and rings...=1324!!!! what a deal!!!!!!
this thing is going to be >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D
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man...i thought it was just my buddies that talk that way...lol...
i think i will be doing the stroker kit. my only problem with scat it there a b**** to balance...expensive!!! maybe ill get lucky. what do you guys think my rpm with be with this kit???
the eagle kit was a forged crank, rods, and pistons....all pre balanced
my scat kit balanced with no prob and no mallory
brian at a&d will take care of you
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i talked with my engine building and he said its hit and miss...sometimes with scat as well as eagle the cranks is way out and requires allot of work....but...since its a full kit maybe it will be more in tacked. regardless...i owe you guys for the input!!!!!!!!!!! thanks you so much for referring me to a better deal. im getting the same quality shit for much less plus the end result will yield a higher hp motor. im stoked!!!!!!! im thinking that i may have to run a AA impeller now... ;D ;D ;D this thing is going to rock!!!! im shooting for 90mph gps run. with 650hp think its possible???
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what heads are you using ???
90mph gunna be a tough # to hit. i would be happy with 75mph and any thing extra is just gravy
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i talked with my engine building and he said its hit and miss...sometimes with scat as well as eagle the cranks is way out and requires allot of work....but...since its a full kit maybe it will be more in tacked. regardless...i owe you guys for the input!!!!!!!!!!! thanks you so much for referring me to a better deal. im getting the same quality shit for much less plus the end result will yield a higher hp motor. im stoked!!!!!!! im thinking that i may have to run a AA impeller now... ;D ;D ;D this thing is going to rock!!!! im shooting for 90mph gps run. with 650hp think its possible???
Yeah, if the boat weighs in at about 400# and the set up is "dead on balls accurate", otherwise no...IMHO :-\
The biggest problem is where that 650 HP will be RPM wise. A whole bunch of R's are difficult to tune in a jet. I use RPM's or cubic inches as a guideline, seldom both...
90 MPH is difficult to attain even with pro built, top of the line everything, I have a personal best of 84 MPH (radar not gps) in a glass hulled big block jet, the aluminum hull about 92 (gps), but we're talking 12.5:1, race fuel, 6,000 RPM and a very light setup that came out of the hole like it needed a fringed, printed invitation (not worth a damn).
Not saying impossible by any stretch, but good luck with that...
GT
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i talked with my engine building and he said its hit and miss...sometimes with scat as well as eagle the cranks is way out and requires allot of work....but...since its a full kit maybe it will be more in tacked. regardless...i owe you guys for the input!!!!!!!!!!! thanks you so much for referring me to a better deal. im getting the same quality shit for much less plus the end result will yield a higher hp motor. im stoked!!!!!!! im thinking that i may have to run a AA impeller now... ;D ;D ;D this thing is going to rock!!!! im shooting for 90mph gps run. with 650hp think its possible???
What cubic inch is this BBF going to be? the big 90's ;D i'm still trying for 80's :banghead: good luck.
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Sh!t Repo, 90 would be a notable accomplishment, I was thinking I'd be proud of this hull pulling 80. But if you are gonna shoot for 90 don't let me get in your way, go for it man! From what i know you are gonna need one hell of a motor and an even better pump to put power like that down in an efficient way.
Keep me posted on how it turns out, I am especially interested, us hallett guys gotta stick together on our accomplishments and builds.
When you get that motor done and back from your builder PM me, I want to hear the details about $$ and stuff.
Thanks
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521 ci bbf... tunnel ram...297 cam ...dual 600 quads, roller rockers...plus it will spin 6400 rpm
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521 ci bbf... tunnel ram...297 cam ...dual 600 quads, roller rockers...plus it will spin 6400 rpm
6400 rpm's Dam :o and a lot of head work keep us posted.
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reply to all....
if it hits 90...sweet...if it does 70 great! im all about having fun! weather it be 70 or 90 its still gonna be the best damn thing to look forward to summer for!
the heads are getting a full port and polish as well as a valve job.
mudpumpers hallett (from what i was told) with his healthy stroked ford did high 80's low 90's. i could be miss lead but how knows but him! either way all of you guys input/suggestions/comments are a great help are much appreciated!!!
back to the stringer issue...i havent tore the glass off the bad area yet. my dad was telling me about this stuff called "git rot." i think i may give it a try and then build up any "missing" wood with glass filler. the company(git rot) claims that it bonds the wood membranes together and makes the treated mass stronger than the original wood. i think i may look into it a little futher...maybe talk to someone who has some good experiance with using the product. its not like the guy wont do the stringer but this would save allot of time as well as it is much cheaper than all of the glass and resin needed for the job.
this is from a random website that carries the product. you can get it almost anywhere including places like NEXTAG. im sure they also sell it at west marine.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2093&NEXTAG
Boatlife Git Rot pours into the finest openings, penetrates, and saturates rotten wood. GIT Rot cures into a resilient adhesive, which arrests dry rot by bonding wood membranes together with a mass stronger than the original wood. 2 Part Kits.
Use on dried out, rotted, and weathered wood, Also excellent for window sashes, gutters, boat stringers, transoms and keels.
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go for it, it's only money...
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go for it, it's only money...
ya its too bad i cant grow that shit in my back yard :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
i interviewed for a new company last night and it may mean more money for me...not sure yet. i may try to get my current employer to compete with there offer...it would be a smart move for them to do so. i have been the top producer since my first day. would sure be a bummer to lose the guy that brings in the most money because they didnt take care of him. :-\
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repo, you are throwing a good bit of hp at this hull and i asume you have never been in a boat at 90mph. It can get rough at times and if it were me i would need to know my stringers were in top notch shape and not patched. do us all a favor and fix them rite. I would hate to see something happen to you or your family. jmho
ralph
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repo, you are throwing a good bit of hp at this hull and i asume you have never been in a boat at 90mph. It can get rough at times and if it were me i would need to know my stringers were in top notch shape and not patched. do us all a favor and fix them rite. I would hate to see something happen to you or your family. jmho
ralph
X2,
A failure at even 60 could be real big problem.
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At 90mph, I think I would have to make sure my shorts were in good order...no patches...
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At 90mph, I think I would have to make sure my shorts were in good order...no patches...
So that's why they call them Ballistic shorts ;D
GT
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maybe i slightly miss lead everyone...im not trying to run 90 all day long...this is going to be a "fun" boat that has a little more balls than most. since i have to build the motor anyway...i may as well do it the right way...along with all the power i have a list of things that need to be done to the pump to handle it. i most likely will see what this boat can truly do one time...i have done 181mph on a bike...194mph in a car...and around 105 in a 28 ft supercat with 2 300 hp outboards. doing 60-70 all day at a much lower rpm, but knowing my engine is built to take it is what i am truly after. a new stringer will be done. i have had enough comments telling me replace rather than fix, i would have to be the most ignorant person on this site not to listen...
i decided to hold off on getting the motor all finished up this month...i feel getting everything else done, including a ss impeller, before puting 3k into this motor is a better plan. that way if summer runs up faster than i want it to i can always throw a used, stock engine in it to get me by. luckie stiff is taking care of the interior as soon as i can manage to get my colors figured out.
im looking for a polished aluminum and white leather steering wheel...any sugestions???
also a polished forward/reverse control handle that is polished
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bronze impeller and jet boat performance should be able to handle all your parts needs
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bronze impeller and jet boat performance should be able to handle all your parts needs
why bronze???
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why bronze???
about half the price and plenty strong for what your doing
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I have a buddy that had a Sanger Hydro that he hit the NOS button on a hard pull and the engine just JUMPED out the back! Boat was recovered and found the rot in the stringers. Pretty crazy thing to watch.
Trent
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I have a buddy that had a Sanger Hydro that he hit the NOS button on a hard pull and the engine just JUMPED out the back! Boat was recovered and found the rot in the stringers. Pretty crazy thing to watch.
Trent
wouldnt be a good day for sure...so everyone knows!!!!! I AM REPLACING STRINGERS TOMORROW!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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i dont know if ralph brunt has mentioned this to you, or if you have read it anywhere...but it is not recommended replacing the stringers in the boat while it is on the trailer... hopefully he will chime in and fill you in on the details
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i dont know if ralph brunt has mentioned this to you, or if you have read it anywhere...but it is not recommended replacing the stringers in the boat while it is on the trailer... hopefully he will chime in and fill you in on the details
X2, block the corners up from the trailer and measure everything, be careful also when doing this job to not "rack" the hull.
GT
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i am aware of this and thank you...i will be putting it on 3 jack stands. 2 in the rear and one up front...not quite sure was rack means but i would believe that is if one side is higher making the boat uneven. i am not doing this alone. i have a close friend that has been in the jet boat biz for a long time and has done several stringer replacements. i trust his knowledge. ill be sure to take pix of before and after. im heading right now to get going on it. i have already done my 12 hours at work...now another 12-14 on the boat. getting the stringer done as well as mounting the intake. possibly more but not sure yet.
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got the stringer in today...looking great! the pix are the first layer of mat. there were 3 layers total. i had to leave and my buddy wes took over. i was at like 36 hours no sleep...time to crash. more pix on monday
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btw...the small air bubbles are GONE....had to roll em out after we got the resin down.
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Outstanding job repo!
Keep em coming... 8)
GT
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looking great, keep the pics coming :)
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well i got more done today...got most of the glass all finished up...a little more to do tomorrow then i can send it down a bit and lay a coat of resin to clean it up a bit. this thing is solid tho...not the prettiest job in the world but your not going to see any of it so im fine with it. the bilge is getting painted and the carpet covers the rest. ill put pix up tomorrow after its all done and cleaned up.
i should be getting my new split bowl, stainless impeller and rebuild kit this week....THANKS AGAIN TOM!!!...
i have the pump parts and the place diverter as well as some other random parts heading to the powder coater this week...should be done in about 2 weeks...then i can get the pump clearances done and bolt everything up.
im going to get my engine going this month...should be all finished up and ready to start next month i hope. i am going to order the 521 bbf stroker kit and the cam package this week. that way the engine guy can get going. its only another hundred bucks and he is going to do all of the mods that website suggest doing to a bbf...thanks again for the site!!!
so after all that it leaves me with interior and misc wiring and so forth...should be a no sweat deal. ill keep you all posted and im hoping to have some really good progress pix up tomorrow...
i picked up another job to help get this effer done!!! its taking away from the boat but i still have 2 days a week to bust a$$.
i have a red grant steering wheel for sale and a set of nice white faced gauges with silver bezels for sale. im in need of a white wheel and all white gauges if someone wants to trade...ill get pix up tomorrow.
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this thread will be some good info down the road! nice work repo!
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here are a few more pics...like i said...after the 3rd layer of mat it got a little messy but i am after strength not looks...you wont see any of it by the time the motor are carpet is done. i have more pix but its too dark to put up tonight...maybe tomorrow.
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D sooooooo pretty!!!!!!!!!!!
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hear are some better shots of the painted bilge area...you gonna have to wait to see how its gonna look all done but you wont be disappointed...the paint is like bed liner...resistant to oils, gas, sun, heat, cold...the list goes on...should be a vary long lasting coating that's i think looks great. i guess its up to you to decide...
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Looking good Repo! And that split bowl kit you got is also very cool. Question for you...I was thinking about pulling my motor and building/glassing in a dam in front of my front motor mounts but before the seating area to keep dirty bilge water from coming into the seating area or onto the carpet. I thought about doing this as soon as I saw the boat but have not got to it yet, but when I had the boat at a local lake two weeks ago it did happen. Not much water at all but who wants that dirty water on your carpet?
I am just thinking that since you have yours all taken apart it may be the best time to do this if you wanted too. I was picturing a 2x6 that I would stand up on its side just in front of the motor mounts and between the stringers.
Just throwin the idea out for you...
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Looking good Repo! And that split bowl kit you got is also very cool. Question for you...I was thinking about pulling my motor and building/glassing in a dam in front of my front motor mounts but before the seating area to keep dirty bilge water from coming into the seating area or onto the carpet. I thought about doing this as soon as I saw the boat but have not got to it yet, but when I had the boat at a local lake two weeks ago it did happen. Not much water at all but who wants that dirty water on your carpet?
I am just thinking that since you have yours all taken apart it may be the best time to do this if you wanted too. I was picturing a 2x6 that I would stand up on its side just in front of the motor mounts and between the stringers.
Just throwin the idea out for you...
i was going to...thought about it that is...the problem is...water likes to get inside the boat up front...getting in and out and so forth...then what??? where does it go??? i will have a false floor that is a piece of 3/4 inch plywood that goes from in front of the mounts all the way to the bulkhead that fits perfectly between the stringers, then carpeted. plus the wood will be painted with resin. that way there is an open area under the floor hense no dirty carpet...im kinda wondering why yours isnt this way. it makes a sturdy and flat surface that goes in the middle of the boat to walk on not to mention it looks great. that way when you pull your boat out of the water and pull the plug on the ramp all of the water that finds its way in...also finds it way out. another common practice is to wet vac any water from the boat after each use. it good practice! thanks for the thoughts!!!
mike
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Mike, sounds like you have your problem solved with false floor idea btwn the stringers....also sounds like a good plan. I think I am pretty heart set on dam idea that I pitched earlier. As for the water getting in the seating area over the front...i'll have to jump that hurdle when i get there...I usually just throw down a beach towel and sop it up and then will vaccume it out at night. I pull my boat everynight anyways and clean it, so I should be fine.
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Mike, sounds like you have your problem solved with false floor idea between the stringers....also sounds like a good plan. I think I am pretty heart set on dam idea that I pitched earlier. As for the water getting in the seating area over the front...i'll have to jump that hurdle when i get there...I usually just throw down a beach towel and sop it up and then will vacuum it out at night. I pull my boat every night anyways and clean it, so I should be fine.
i think everyone needs to do what will work best for them!!! the cross member would be a good idea. maybe if you put it in then you could drill a hole right in the middle and add a plug...then you can drain when you want to and keep things separated when necessary. good luck either way and let me know how it all works out for ya.
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a dam in front of my front motor mounts but before the seating area to keep dirty bilge water from coming into the seating area or onto the carpet. I thought about doing this as soon as I saw the boat but have not got to it yet, but when I had the boat at a local lake two weeks ago it did happen. Not much water at all but who wants that dirty water on your carpet?
Nick if you do decide to glass in the bilge water dam then you can put a scupper valve in it. Let's any water from the seating area drain back into the bilge but not the other way round.
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if you decide to do this
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC04577.JPG)
make sure you measure so you dont have to do this :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC05120.JPG)
in all fairness there is a turn fin right in front of the bulk head so it cant be moved forward any more
not the best pic but you get the idea
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10041/DSC04398.JPG)
ralph
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Total thread jack here Mike, sorry about that. But Ralph that looks dam good (ha ha ha) but in all seriousness that is exactly what I had envisioned.
My dad and I are going to attempt to do that in a couple weeks when we pull the motor. I will make sure to post pics.
And Mike, whats up bro, you havn't posted any progress in a while???????
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waiting on the powder coat and $$$ for the engine...soon my friend...soon.
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well...i got the parts for the money and the pump is in....too dark for pix but tomorrow i will put a bunch up...its looking great. place diverter is all ready to go on. tanks are going in and the long process of wet sanding and polishing the hull is in order for tuesday evening. pix before and after as well as some video of the sanding and polishing to help show the process. let me know the input after the pix are up
mike
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here is some progress of the evening. my back is in bad shape and it forced me to stop. tomorrow i will finish up the tanks
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tanks are in....ill post pix tomorrow. if its nice i may do the wet sand. my back is finally getting better. i have been stuck in a bed for the last week.