SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: lbhsbz on July 25, 2010, 09:44:05 PM
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After crashing the white one, I needed another boat. I didn't want a winger, cuz everyone has wingers...so it had to be a tunnel. Something relatively safe to 100+. After getting thrown, I also saw value in the T-deck. I searched high and low and found this one in Mississippi. It's a Southwind Tunnel Dragster bottom with the T-deck top from the Southwind Formula 19 that had been modified to fit the tunnel bottom. The boat was manufactured in Texas buy Eddies Custom Boats, who from what I'm told used to be part of southwind and built all the boats for southern/eastern states. I guess what I've got is pretty rare. I've seen one other for sale, and they're asking something outrageous for it. I wired the guy a deposit and he towed it out to parker for me if I paid gas one way. I picked it up Sat. night. It's a little dusty from 1800 miles of towing. The paint is 10 years old but the boat hasn't been in the water since it was painted...so it looks great. It's got some hillbilly touches that I've got to get rid of, but overall it looks like I got a decent deal.
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The motor is supposedly a 13:1 468 deal with a decent bottom end and venoila pistons. It's got dart Pro-1 heads on it and I can see aluminum roller rockers and a stud girdle through the breather hole, Dominator carb, dart intake, MSD 7 series crank trigger, 2 stage nitrous setup with MSD nitrous retard, a shitload of AN lines....looks good. I need to go through the carb cuz it leaks out of everywhere right now. The headers are rewarder twisties that have ZERO rust anywhere, and are only slighly blued on 3 of the tubes right by the head.
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The pump is a bit odd...looks like a berk, and it's got some sort of race nozzle on it. Strange part is that the race nozzle has no outlet for reverse thrust to exit with the bucket down, but it still has the pivot holes for the reverse bucket. Seems dumb. I'll try to post more pictures of it later. The bowl also looks a bit odd....has an "S" cast into it and the oil fill holes look a lot closer together than I've ever seen on a berk bowl. Any ideas as to what I've got here? Dunno what impeller is in it, but It's got a loader and a shoe.
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The plan:
Tear the whole thing apart, throw the bass boat seats in the trash, put a new motor together using the best from both my old motor and this one, then button up the extra pieces to have a complete turnkey deal from the rail kit to the scoop to sell someone who wants to do a swap....hopefully recover some cash. I'll also be figuring out which combination of pump parts works best for me and building another pump out of the leftovers to sell...recover some more cash.
I'm gonna try to have the motor out tomorrow, I'll updated with pics as we go.
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love the lines looks like a good boat good luck with it ;D
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Nice boat brother...looks like you can put me down for the motor and the pump real soon after I take my junk apart this week haha.
Badass vessel.
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Really cool Pat! One of a kind fo sho! :thumbup:
Ray
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Congrats :thumbup:
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Thanks for helpin me out Saturday. Looks like a sweet deal. Hit me up if you need somethin.
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pretty cool boat man!
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That looks bad ass!!! Congratulations!!
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:thumbup:
Looks like it could be a fun ride ;D
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Soooo....I guess one 5/16 bolt at each corner is enough to hold the motor down...right.
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Gonna have to change up the mounts I think. Engine mount bolts should be bigger than the plug wires...I would think.
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The pump is a bit odd...looks like a berk, and it's got some sort of race nozzle on it. Strange part is that the race nozzle has no outlet for reverse thrust to exit with the bucket down, but it still has the pivot holes for the reverse bucket. Seems dumb. I'll try to post more pictures of it later. The bowl also looks a bit odd....has an "S" cast into it and the oil fill holes look a lot closer together than I've ever seen on a berk bowl. Any ideas as to what I've got here? Dunno what impeller is in it, but It's got a loader and a shoe.
The "race nozzle" was designed to use the "ram's horn" gate(sometimes called "butt cheek") that had reverse ducts cast into it. Used ones do come up for sale now and then. Not sure if Berkeley carries them any more.
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Makes sense. Does anyone wanna buy a race nozzle?
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alot of guys that race use that nozzle, then instead of using a ram horn, they split a piece of tube and tig it to the outside of the reverse bucket. that way the water flows to the sides. pics are on the other board somewhere.
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I do
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I do
How much will you give me for it?
Update: Got the pump out...it's a box stock JB pump with a B-ish impeller in it...aluminum. It's in the spam section
I pulled a valve cover and I can see a tie bar on the lifters and the rockers are loose on the closed valves...so I've got a solid roller motor. Comp cams guide plates and rockers, jomar stud girdles...looks good. More teardown tomorrow. I've gotta play dad for the rest of the night.
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OK, looks bad now that the heads are off. I tore the whole motor down tonight.
I think I got ...I know I got screwed.
The best cylinder out of 8
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Hard to see, but the chamfers on the top and bottom bearing are facing different directions..LOL.
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The gas ported 13:1 venolia pistons I was so excited about... :banghead:
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Hillbillies think iron head plugs work in aluminum heads
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Fawk. :mad: :mad: :mad:
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Now you can see why he drove it from Misery to Parker for you! Suck it up son, you've got parts and skill, get that pig back on the water.
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I've got the 489 shortblock together, but I'm broke till I sell some stuff.
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I say we take a drive down to Missouri and get your money back and keep the vessel. You got his add on the rg hehehe. I work for jetboat parts hehehe. Think about it....
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I'm gathering info....I found and spoke with several people that knew his father and know the kid that I bought the boat from....their recollection of the history of this boat is significantly different than the story I was told...in writing.
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Whenever your ready...Roadtrip! You got my number.
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thats a bum deal
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Lol... Stupid toothless redneck.
yes, that's 2 accelerator pumps on top of each other.
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Twice as quick? ;D
Ray
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Triple pumper.
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Dood I need that guys number, I want him to put my boat together for next season...it'll be ssooo fast and badass hehehe. What a dumbfu*k!
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What a bummer. I would say you could try going the legal route but I doubt you would ever see a penny
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I was thinking about small claims but I'd have to either do it in AZ or Mississippi...which is more effort than it's worth...and I'd never see a penny, so screw it. I'll make the best of what I've got and hope his house burns down. I think that's my best bet.
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I was thinking about small claims but I'd have to either do it in AZ or Mississippi...which is more effort than it's worth...and I'd never see a penny, so screw it. I'll make the best of what I've got and hope his house burns down. I think that's my best bet.
Karma is sometimes its own reward, Pat. I'd just leave it be. Been there, done that. Only boat I've bought that was what it was represented as was Moo. "Blowed up engine, but complete, freshly built pump, lots of new parts" if I remember right. PO is excited as hell his old boat was in a magazine, lol.
You still have a sweet, and VERY unique boat to build, so stop bitchin' and get on it! >:D
Ray
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i got a friend that finds deals like this all the time hes getting tierd of that kinda shit to i feel for u man
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so stop bitchin' and get on it! >:D
Ray
If I can move some of my parts it'll be on the water within a week.
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There, that's better.
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All Cleaned up. I'm going by the machine shop tomorrow to do some cleanup on the heads and pick up some bearings and gaskets, then the motor goes together hopefully tuesday. I've got a bit of glass work to do in the pod area and fill some holes in the stringers/floors, then slap it all together and wire it. I'm hoping to have it running by Friday and make it to the river for the CP regatta.
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Came out clean....do not paint the rails and get a little buff job on her shell be a sexy little number.
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Looks good dude, I'll be out this weekend, holler if you need anything
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Looks good dude, I'll be out this weekend, holler if you need anything
bring a rope
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Looks good Pat, glad to see the fishin boat seats are gone. ;D
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bring a rope
better yet I'll put my ski tow on
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Of course...I'm running into problems. Par for the course with my projects.
I ran by my machine shop to drop off the heads to get flat milled to 112cc and have them cleaned up/gone through, and while I was there I grabbed a set of x bearings off the shelf to start setting up my main clearances....I started at the front. All went good except #4...had to do some work on the backside of the shells to get me where I wanted to be, and then the rear main...measured at the back of bearing I had 0.0041...OK...fine. Move forward to measure the front of the bearing and I see .0063"..
Whisky....Tango....Foxtrot? :sly:
Threw in a different bearing, same thing. Took the bearings out...same spread front to rear. Started drinking at this point and kicked some stuff around the garage in frustration. After several more beers and trying to figure out what I'm seeing here, I flipped the cap over and inspected it very closely..there's evidence of line honing on the front of the cap, but not so much towards the rear...indicating that maybe, a piece of crap was under the cap when it got line honed the first time a couple years ago, and I only measured the bearing at one spot when I built that motor...so I never noticed it. Well, now that the cap is mating correctly to the block and not tilted, that opened up the front of the cap...Fawk. It's already been align bored once...and the rear cap doesn't fit as tight as it once did, so this block is trash. Dammit...it had a perfect bore to fit the .030 pistons I already have too.
Grab the other motor with the crap bore, and pressure washed it, then threw it on the stand and measured up the mains...they look good. no more than about 0.0002 taper from the front the back of any of the mains. Threw some bearings in there and checked my clearances....all look good with X bearings. Brought that block down to the machine shop yesterday and as luck would have it, he has a set of the pistons I need sitting on the shelf...for the low low price of about $600. It should all be done by Friday and ready for me to assemble this weekend.
It's only money right?
Stupid boat :banghead:
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Just think about the finished product bro. It'll be right and clean in the end.
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Godamnit, your bringing me down with this negativity. I'll have 200 for you on sat for the bbc parts so don't worry those pistons will only be 400 hehe.
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That block can be fixed with align honeing it. Cut the caps down and hone it no biggie. Since it's been bored once it might get a .005 over chain set.
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That block can be fixed with align honeing it. Cut the caps down and hone it no biggie. Since it's been bored once it might get a .005 over chain set.
Or a Jesel... >:D It's only money...Obama is printing more every day :screwy:
GT
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Or a Jesel... >:D It's only money...Obama is printing more every day :screwy:
GT
LOL! You should be fine with those suggestions, I would think. I, thinking out loud here, would probably have the bottom of the block decked a couple thou and the caps a couple, then a line hone. Careful cam degreeing (Offset keys, etc) with a good roller set SHOULD be able to offset the .004" to .005" difference between the cam and new crank centerlines. How accurate can those centerlines be to begin with, really? Always gonna be play in the timing set, else you'd never get them on by hand...... ;)
Ray
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Bust
Out
Another
Thousand
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
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That block can be fixed with align honeing it. Cut the caps down and hone it no biggie. Since it's been bored once it might get a .005 over chain set.
Yeah...well...it's already been done (poorly) once...and a 0.005 short chain is sloppier than I'd like it to be. It really needs a .010...but as luck would have it, nobody seems to have any. I solved the problem by throwing the block in the trash...since the rear cap didn't fit tight anyway.
I got the mains set on the new block this morning...I'm .0032-.0035 on 1-4 and .004-.0044 on the rear...LOL, can't get away from that taper on the rear main. Oh well, .0004 taper is better than 0.002 taper...I can live with it. Then I flipped the block over to clean the bores up with some solvent and get ready to gap the rings...and noticed the rather course finish on the deck. My guy measured it up at Zero with the pistons I'm using, so he said he didn't deck it....except for the existing deck looks more like the surface of a file, which I don't think will seal for shit against an MLS head gasket, so back to the shop it goes. So much for getting the motor done and in before momma comes home next week with our son.
Oh well, I guess I can hang the pistons and figure out the rod bearings this weekend.
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LOL! You should be fine with those suggestions, I would think. I, thinking out loud here, would probably have the bottom of the block decked a couple thou and the caps a couple, then a line hone. Careful cam degreeing (Offset keys, etc) with a good roller set SHOULD be able to offset the .004" to .005" difference between the cam and new crank centerlines. How accurate can those centerlines be to begin with, really? Always gonna be play in the timing set, else you'd never get them on by hand...... ;)
Ray
See, I got spoiled once, my first car..72 El Camino. I had pulled off the extra crap since it was now smog exempt and nobody had told me about that bolt hole near the fuel pump on the SBC that goes through to the crankcase...so I was chasing the oil leak. Ended up pulling the motor and doing a oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, main seals and while I was in there...I threw in a new chain. This new chain was tighter than a guitar string once the cam bolts were tight. Ever since then, I get pissed every time I snug down a cam pulley and see the chain with slop in it. That old 2bbl 350 ran like a raped ape with that nice tight chain. That point is moot however, since another thing nobody told me about was burping cooling systems, so I prompty overheated it and cracked both heads the next day. The automotive learning experience was not nice to me.
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Are you torqueing up the oil pump when checking clearance? On a stock bbc cast cap it's around. 0004-.0005 difference. In a situation where 4 are close and 1 is off its no problem to get a flat piece of metal (thick) and some 600 grit and sand and check a few times. I know the hole is not exactly round but they never are anyway when you check clearance near the parting line. I've done this on 100s of times on up to 100 thousand dollar engines and never had problems.
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Yep...torquing the pump down. Tried a couple different sequences too...snug the cap, torque the pump, torque the cap....torque the cap, then torque the pump...nothing really changes too much.
I'd rather have .0005 taper on the barrel than a hole that's not round.....I think.
I dunno, what's better? at only 0.0005....does it matter? I'm running the rear main around .004, so I think that's enough to absorb either condition really...
I'm seeing lots of minor taper..even on the rods. Every rod seems to have 0.0002 from one side to the other with the bearings installed. I dont' really care about 0.0002", but I find it a bit strange.
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I've officially fired my machine shop...
The heads didn't get milled down to 112cc, they didn't finish the chambers properly when they did the repair, and they didn't deck the block...because nobody thought to look at it, therefor nobody noticed that there is no way in hell that it would seal against the gaskets that I bought from them.
I've had problems before...and I'm done now. My block is down at another shop actually closer to my house that came highly recommended. We'll see what happens.
Anyway...it seems as if I've pissed away just about all the money I have to piss away on this thing...and it's nowhere near completion. This may become a winter project...it'll give me some time to get some money together and finish it right...hopefully.
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I've officially fired my machine shop...
The heads didn't get milled down to 112cc, they didn't finish the chambers properly when they did the repair, and they didn't deck the block...because nobody thought to look at it, therefor nobody noticed that there is no way in hell that it would seal against the gaskets that I bought from them.
I've had problems before...and I'm done now. My block is down at another shop actually closer to my house that came highly recommended. We'll see what happens.
Anyway...it seems as if I've pissed away just about all the money I have to piss away on this thing...and it's nowhere near completion. This may become a winter project...it'll give me some time to get some money together and finish it right...hopefully.
when your done f cking around you can just send it to a&d engines here on the boards and be done with it ;)
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i remember someone who wanted to buy a motor from ya.
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when your done f cking around you can just send it to a&d engines here on the boards and be done with it ;)
I talked to David...he didn't have time to fit me in anytime soon.
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i remember someone who wanted to buy a motor from ya.
I ended up with only one good block, the other was junk. Sorry bro. I've still got a crank I'll sell you cheap.
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I talked to David...he didn't have time to fit me in anytime soon.
well then his loss, sure glad you gave him a chance :thumbup:
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PROGRESS!!!!! in the right direction I hope.
I picked up the block from this new machine shop I'm trying out...prelimary measurements agree with what they said they did...so we're looking good. My old shop said I was already 0.005 outta the hole and that's why they didn't deck it. I picked it up and measured it up at 0.010-.011" in the hole. The new shop took off 0.008...only had to go that far because it was twisted...which should leave me about 0.002-0.003 in the hole. Perfect.
I spent the evening cleaning the block...pressure washed it, blow dried it, chased every hole in the block, glyptol'd the inside and painted the outside, then a bunch of passes over the machined surfaces with laquer thinner until the rags came out clean...then more compressed air...I think it's clean. I cleaned up the oil pump supply passage in the rear cap...dunno if it'll do any good but it can't hurt. After I was happy with the cleanliness, I set the crank in it. I already had the mains and thrust measured up so I didn't do it again.
I picked up a gram scale from Harbor Freight tonight to match balance all the pistons....and every one of them came in at 708 grams w/ the pin. i know the scale works cuz I threw a dollar bill on it and it went up to 709 grams. SRP did good.
I wanted to start gapping the rings, but I couldn't find the squaring tool I made when I put the last BBC together...I think I might have made a nozzle insert out of it. Oh well. I made a new one on the lathe out of the front bearing retainer from GeneralLee's blowed up bayjet pump. Pretty nice piece of billet, but it was thrashed from the bearing blowing up so I figured what the hell.
Gotta spend some time with Momma for the rest of the night.
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Got all the rings gapped tonight...only screwed up one of 'em...but it's the second ring, and it's only 0.002" big. I probably should care...but I really don't at this point. I talked to Chris Straub about the 2 cams I had and my combo and he picked one of them but told me to set it up advanced 2°, snug up the exhaust and loosen up on the intakes...took me 2 tries to get the cam degreed in right.
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...and my super bitchin custom ring squaring tool....
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Sinks the ring 1 inch down the hole.
All the pistons are in...I set the main bearings at 0.0032-0.0035 and while I was advised to run a little looser on the rods, the bearings that were in the last motor looked perfect after much abuse being set at 0.0018 - .002, so I used standard Clevite HN bearings and set it at 0.002-.0022. I had do buff the plating off of the back of a couple shells to bring them in but it worked out well.
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The motor in the new boat came with a nice aluminum timing cover, so I wanted to use that. It won't fit with my old cam button unless I face it down a bit...I can't find where I put the cam button that came out of that motor...so tomorrow morning I'm cleaning the garage. It's getting a bit outta hand in there, hopefully in cleaning I'll find the other cam button.
Shootin for labor day.
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looks good Pat sounds to me you have it all under control now :thumbup:
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Fought with rocker geometry this morning for a little bit...but I got past that. Buttoned it all up and the motor is in.
I'm using the same mounts...but I drilled out the plate bolt hole to 3/8. You guys that use the little angle brackets...what size bolts are you using? I'm ending up with 2 5/16-18 bolts holding each block to the rails and one 3/8-16 bolt holding the plate to the block...is this sufficient?
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I'm ending up with 2 5/16-18 bolts holding each block to the rails and one 3/8-16 bolt holding the plate to the block...is this sufficient?
Depends on the bolts....As the bolts size goes up, the hole size does too....It's a balancing act between the material being bolted and the composition of the hardware... ;)
Cadmium plated grade 8 for hex headed bolts, black oxide allens should be more than enough bolt, but the mated surfaces must be extremely flush with each other....
GT
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I'm using stainless hardware...all the mounting surfaces mate nicely...and are angled correctly. I'm using some backing plates where required. I'll run it and see what happens...maybe throw a safety chain on in just in case...cuz I'm a hack.
I've got a new delimna....I've got dominator pump....and 3 transom adapters for a berkeley pumps, where are too small to fit over my bowl. I would really like to use transom plates instead of the stupid adapter so that I don't have to tear shit apart should I have to remove the bowl, but the pod is just long enough where the plates would touch the heads of the bowl bolts. It looks like I'm cutting down the pod about 4 inches. I'm gonna try to do it such that I can reuse the plates off of the old boat.................and I'm gonna try and leave the intake in. This should be fun. More pictures tonight.
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mill the bowl down
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I'm using stainless hardware...all the mounting surfaces mate nicely...and are angled correctly. I'm using some backing plates where required. I'll run it and see what happens...maybe throw a safety chain on in just in case...cuz I'm a hack.
I've got a new delimna....I've got dominator pump....and 3 transom adapters for a berkeley pumps, where are too small to fit over my bowl. I would really like to use transom plates instead of the stupid adapter so that I don't have to tear shit apart should I have to remove the bowl, but the pod is just long enough where the plates would touch the heads of the bowl bolts. It looks like I'm cutting down the pod about 4 inches. I'm gonna try to do it such that I can reuse the plates off of the old boat.................and I'm gonna try and leave the intake in. This should be fun. More pictures tonight.
i would cut the aluminum before i touched the pod
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Too late, I already cut half the pod off.
The reason I did it this way is because:
If I need to pull the bowl to dig out rocks or whatever, I don't need to take anything apart...just remove the exposed bowl bolts and I'm in. Maybe I got spoiled on the old boat with servicability. It took me about an hour or so to get the transom adapter off this thing when I was tearing it apart...all the cables went through it and none of them sealed for shit, but were somehow stuck. The damn steer tube took me the better part of 30 minutes to get out. Screw that. One thing I can't friggen stand about a lot of boats and the way they are assembled is the lack of serviceability. I try to use captive nuts wherever I can on through bolts and I try to make it so I can take the whole damn thing apart in less than an hour if I have to....makes repairs at the river a lot easier in the heat.
I took about 6 inches off the pod...it's about even with the cav plates now. There were also a couple cracks that I saw through the paint....and I'm glad I started grinding because they went all way through...about 8 inches long each where the pod meets the transom. The grinder went right through, so they were some thin spots...one of them is a hole about 2 inches by 9 inches now, the other is a bit smaller. I'll fix those too. i've got it mostly prepped and hopefully I can get the rest of the prep done tomorrow and glass the sumbitch back together. I'm cutting a bigger access hole in top of the pod and glassing in a recessed lip so the aluminum cover sits flush with the surface...it look cool in my head, we'll see how it turns out.
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Glassing the pod back together.
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I cut the flanged part off of the back and then took a 4ish inch section of out it, and I'm glassing the flanged part back on. During my prep, the flange broke into about 4 pieces. I had to grind out a bunch of bad repair work. I held the pieces back onto the boat with masking tape and shimmed it close to where it needs to end up...then used some short pieces of glass to stick it all together. This is as far as I got last night. Tonight, the plan is to do 2 more layers of glass on the inside, then once that kicks, grind the outside again and do 2 layers on that. I'll then prep all that stuff and do a filler coat and start blocking. Total should be 4 layers of mat.
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Oh god NNNOOOO! That gorgeous paint is gone! I guess your doing what needs to be done. The paint is gone aaahhhhhh! I'm freaking out man. :mad: :banghead:
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It's black. Black comes in spray cans....I'm good.
Need some help on the transom hardware. I'm making some plates to go between the pads and the transom, and I'm refinishing the cav plates, ride plate, transom plates, and bowl saddle....
Pump will be painted black.
Should I...
polish (I'd have to continually repolish...which sucks)
anodize clear
anodize red (would look good in the beginning but when it fades, would be pink)
anodize gold (might look good since there is yellow on the boat, and when it fades it's still gold)
anodize black (would look good in the beginning but turn purple when it fades)
powdercoat black (might chip when hardware is installed)
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I'm glad everything worked out with the new machine shop. It's amazing how many shops can't do the most basic machine work. If you ever gap a ring a tad on the big side just install it in the lean hole. It depends which manifold is being used. Then you won't feel so bad being a .001-.002 off!
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Dart manifold...but, the heads are on, and they probably won't come off until I crash it, so it's a moot point.
What color should I do the transom hardware? Amazingly, that's my primary concern right now...
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Anodize Bronze dude. Bronze and Black, sexy combo.
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looking good!! i cut my pod down over the winter also.
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I hate fiberglass work. Now that I've got the structure down, I'm trying to true everything up. It's proving to be a pain in the ass.
Oh well, it'll at least be straight when I'm done.
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Ok, Pod is done...still need to color sand and polish, but it came out decent.
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...been working on the transom plates between diaper changes. Junior came out and helped (sat in his swing in the garage) Got the transom plates more or less done tonight....they're fitted to the pump and rough cut to the shape of the pod. Just need to drill/countersink all my holes, bolt it on, and I'm gonna try goin after it with a trim router and a roundover bit to clean up the edges. I'll try a piece of scrap first to see how it works.
Here's a couple pics from tonight. I also machined the seam to make a 1" lap joint...probably not necessary, but I think it's cool.
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The lap joint
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I made a rough pattern out of cardboard, then transfered it to 3/16" plate and cut it out. I spent about an hour with various die grinders getting it within 1/16", then traced that and cut out the other side....that one didn't take as long to fit. Did as much cutting as I could on my bandsaw, but it's only got a 4" throat so I had to do some work with a jigsaw. Machining was done on my little mill....amazingly, it came out damn near perfect considering all my measurements were from crappy reference points.
I think I'm gonna powdercoat 'em black.
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Looking Awesome!
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Looking Awesome! :thumbup:
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Looks good Pat. I like the lap joint, thats going to looks really clean that way. When I did the ones for my old boat I didnt think of that and had to use a 3rd piece inside the plates to bolt them together.
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it was Ralphs idea....when he came over to help get the white boat together for the Tom Papp deal, he made me do the joint like this....since I had a mill and all, and I'm glad he did.
BTW...your shoe is sitting in my truck.....keep forgetting to ship it. I'll do it tomorrow...I promise ;D
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Pat, I was reading back to where you mentioned there where some cracks around where the pod met the transom. I know you took care of that with your glass work, but have you thought about making a pump brace for it so it doesn't happen again ? Might be worth thinking about, I know your going to have more power than the "motor" that was in there.
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I've thought about a lot of things....Thing one is tie the engine and pump together....the engine is trying to twist one way and the pump is trying to twist the other. I'm amazed that these things stay together like they do.
I'll probably set up something from the rear of the rails down to the 6 forwardmost intake bolts and integrate a driveline safety loop. I'm running without a bellhousing...for serviceabliity, so I don't want the driveshaft going through the bottom of the boat should I have a U-joint failure.
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Got the plates mostly done...only took me a month LOL. They need a bit of trimming along the bottom but I'll do that with the router once they're all bolted on.
Hand polished (kinda crappy job)...started with 500 grit, went up to 2000 grit then blue magic. They look OK.
finished the edges with with a roundover bit in the router. They came out nice I think.
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The edges line up once it's tight. ;D
going to the river next Thursday to pull the pull the trailer off the spot...we'll see if I make it with the boat.
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I dont think those plates will come off! ;D Looks good bro!
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Holy Crap! Countersunk and everystuffs! Clean work Pat! :thumbup:
Ray
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Just went up the street to Plastic Depot and picked up a scrap piece of 7'x2' black PVC sheet...about 1/8" thick for $35 to make my spash shield out of.
I talked to the guy a bit regarding making the bends, and while acrylic has nice thermoplastic properties, it's shit material and cracks if you look at it wrong. Lexan has about 5° window between bendable and melting and my heat gun isn't calibrated for that. You can cold form it, but it stresses the material and eventually cracks (like my old one did)....so he recommended an ABS or a PCV. This was sitting there and it was 1/2 the price of the ABS, so I'll try this. It's solid black, so it'll match the boat. Nice and flexible-ish, good formability with mild heat, and you can bend/flex it till you're tired and it won't break. maybe I'll make a little T-deck wind deflector out of it too.
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Well, the heat today turned my sheet of PVC (that was leaning against the wall) into something that more closely resembles a wadded up piece of paper. Crap, guess I gotta find something different to make it out of. I'll get some aluminum I guess.
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got going tonight on the pump brace/driveline safety loop.....was going good till i took a chunk outta my finger on the grinder...
got to use the new boring head on my mill....pretty slick. I'm gonna sit here and drink beer until my finger stops bleeding.
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I like that pump brace/driveline safety loop idea, looks clean.
Put some SuperGlue on your finger, burns like hell but it stops the bleeding. ;)
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Look's good! Havwe one for me too! :beer: :thumbup:
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So I had this idea... (grab a beer...this is a good one)...
Conventional single cable push/pull systems suck because there's alot of slop in 'em.
Calgo setups solve the slop problem, but I've read about a couple cables breaking. Cables are a wear item, and when they're in a sheath (like the calgo)..it makes it tough to inspect 'em. Plus, calgo systems are $$$
My idea is this:
I have a few old pump shafts that'll make perfect steering columns...put a flange mounted bearing on the backside of the dash and another one on the bulkhead, run the shaft between the 2 bearings and attach the steering hub to the part sticking out of the dash.
instead of the bicycle chain setup like the V-drives use, instead I'll use a drum on the shaft with about 5 or 6 wraps of cable...Run the ends of the cable threw a set of pulleys on the stringers up front, down the stringers, threw a set of pulleys on the stringers near the transom, then another set of pulleys on the transom next to/above the pump, and then out the transom through 2 holes and connect to the tiller arm. The cables though-hulls would be sealed with rubber bellows.
There would be a turnbuckle on each side cable end to adjust alignment and to adjust for cable stretch. The cables are 100% exposed for easy inspection. There are no sheaths to trap water and hide damage. I can make the system with stuff I've got in the garage...except the bearings. Cables will be stainless.
Any problems with this idea?
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So I had this idea... (grab a beer...this is a good one)...
Conventional single cable push/pull systems suck because there's alot of slop in 'em.
Calgo setups solve the slop problem, but I've read about a couple cables breaking. Cables are a wear item, and when they're in a sheath (like the calgo)..it makes it tough to inspect 'em. Plus, calgo systems are $$$
My idea is this:
I have a few old pump shafts that'll make perfect steering columns...put a flange mounted bearing on the backside of the dash and another one on the bulkhead, run the shaft between the 2 bearings and attach the steering hub to the part sticking out of the dash.
instead of the bicycle chain setup like the V-drives use, instead I'll use a drum on the shaft with about 5 or 6 wraps of cable...Run the ends of the cable threw a set of pulleys on the stringers up front, down the stringers, threw a set of pulleys on the stringers near the transom, then another set of pulleys on the transom next to/above the pump, and then out the transom through 2 holes and connect to the tiller arm. The cables though-hulls would be sealed with rubber bellows.
There would be a turnbuckle on each side cable end to adjust alignment and to adjust for cable stretch. The cables are 100% exposed for easy inspection. There are no sheaths to trap water and hide damage. I can make the system with stuff I've got in the garage...except the bearings. Cables will be stainless.
Any problems with this idea?
Just run two cables on the push pull delio and snug em together like the outboard dudes do... :thumbup:
Or...Better yet
[attachimg=#]
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Got to doing a bit more work on the motor today....trying to sort out rocker geometry. I discovered 2 things.
Thing 1: my cam only opens the valve .650", not .720 like the cam card said. I guess it's been reground at some point. Now I get to find a new cam.
Thing 2: The machinist (that I fired) fawked up these Dart heads good.
Checking things out on cylinder 1 told me I need .100 longer pushrods for both intake and exhaust than I have now. Cylinder 3 the exhaust pushrod is the correct length. WTF? Threw a straightedge across the valve stems and I can fit a 0.040 feeler gauge in there on top of the #3 exhaust valve. Sumbitch
I checked the other side and I've got a valve that 0.070" different than the rest of em. Double sumbitch.
So I pulled the heads back off....wondereing WTF else he fawked up....and decided to dig out my burret and check the chamber volumes.
As cast chambers, head #1 looks OK...all are within 1 cc of each other...120-121ccs
Head number 2.....116 - 117 - 118 - 119
The asshole machined it on an angle, not to mention the fact that he didn't take 'em to 115 like I asked him to.
Anyone wanna buy a project tunnel? i don't have the money to keep doing this.
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That sucks bro !!!
You need to go down there, crack him in the head with a cam, and stand on his neck for an hour or so (just for fun). If he screwed that head up that bad (116 to 119), you might want to figure a way to check the angle of the head surface the other way too. I wouldnt be surprised if that head has a bit of angle change that way too (rolled a bit in or out).
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That sucks bro !!!
You need to go down there, crack him in the head with a cam, and stand on his neck for an hour or so (just for fun). If he screwed that head up that bad (116 to 119), you might want to figure a way to check the angle of the head surface the other way too. I wouldnt be surprised if that head has a bit of angle change that way too (rolled a bit in or out).
Don't add more fuel to the fire, Proppy. I think Pat's close to the Hangin' hisself point. >:D
Ray
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Got to doing a bit more work on the motor today....trying to sort out rocker geometry. I discovered 2 things.
Thing 1: my cam only opens the valve .650", not .720 like the cam card said. I guess it's been reground at some point. Now I get to find a new cam.
Thing 2: The machinist (that I fired) fawked up these Dart heads good.
Checking things out on cylinder 1 told me I need .100 longer pushrods for both intake and exhaust than I have now. Cylinder 3 the exhaust pushrod is the correct length. WTF? Threw a straightedge across the valve stems and I can fit a 0.040 feeler gauge in there on top of the #3 exhaust valve. Sumbitch
I checked the other side and I've got a valve that 0.070" different than the rest of em. Double sumbitch.
So I pulled the heads back off....wondereing WTF else he fawked up....and decided to dig out my burret and check the chamber volumes.
As cast chambers, head #1 looks OK...all are within 1 cc of each other...120-121ccs
Head number 2.....116 - 117 - 118 - 119
The asshole machined it on an angle, not to mention the fact that he didn't take 'em to 115 like I asked him to.
Anyone wanna buy a project tunnel? i don't have the money to keep doing this.
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As we talked today...there ae 3 elements relevant to this...boils down to human error ..or bad equipment...tolerance stacking aswell...RALPH...WTF...you here :o....chime in bro. :'(
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pat check out the steering on this thing
http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39735 (http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39735)
ill pull the snoot off today brosef
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As we talked today...there ae 3 elements relevant to this...boils down to human error ..or bad equipment...tolerance stacking aswell...RALPH...WTF...you here :o....chime in bro. :'(
valves sunk too far in heads, improper seat depth or valve length issue.
pat has already rules out #3 by measuring with the same 2 valves
and im sure it's possible to machine the deck of the head crooked but imo it would be pretty hard to do ???
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TYT