Pat's Tunnel Project

« **Reply #75 on:** September 13, 2010, 10:55:27 PM »

it was Ralphs idea....when he came over to help get the white boat together for the Tom Papp deal, he made me do the joint like this....since I had a mill and all, and I'm glad he did.

BTW...your shoe is sitting in my truck.....keep forgetting to ship it. I'll do it tomorrow...I promise

« **Reply #76 on:** September 14, 2010, 12:01:48 AM »

Pat, I was reading back to where you mentioned there where some cracks around where the pod met the transom. I know you took care of that with your glass work, but have you thought about making a pump brace for it so it doesn't happen again ? Might be worth thinking about, I know your going to have more power than the "motor" that was in there.

« **Reply #77 on:** September 14, 2010, 12:48:42 AM »

I've thought about a lot of things....Thing one is tie the engine and pump together....the engine is trying to twist one way and the pump is trying to twist the other. I'm amazed that these things stay together like they do.

I'll probably set up something from the rear of the rails down to the 6 forwardmost intake bolts and integrate a driveline safety loop. I'm running without a bellhousing...for serviceabliity, so I don't want the driveshaft going through the bottom of the boat should I have a U-joint failure.

« **Reply #78 on:** September 23, 2010, 07:44:51 PM »

Got the plates mostly done...only took me a month LOL. They need a bit of trimming along the bottom but I'll do that with the router once they're all bolted on.

Hand polished (kinda crappy job)...started with 500 grit, went up to 2000 grit then blue magic. They look OK.

finished the edges with with a roundover bit in the router. They came out nice I think.

The edges line up once it's tight.

going to the river next Thursday to pull the pull the trailer off the spot...we'll see if I make it with the boat.

« **Reply #79 on:** September 23, 2010, 09:48:04 PM »

I dont think those plates will come off!

Looks good bro!

« **Reply #80 on:** September 23, 2010, 11:14:43 PM »

Holy Crap! Countersunk and everystuffs! Clean work Pat!

Ray

« **Reply #81 on:** September 24, 2010, 01:25:28 PM »

Just went up the street to Plastic Depot and picked up a scrap piece of 7'x2' black PVC sheet...about 1/8" thick for $35 to make my spash shield out of.

I talked to the guy a bit regarding making the bends, and while acrylic has nice thermoplastic properties, it's shit material and cracks if you look at it wrong. Lexan has about 5° window between bendable and melting and my heat gun isn't calibrated for that. You can cold form it, but it stresses the material and eventually cracks (like my old one did)....so he recommended an ABS or a PCV. This was sitting there and it was 1/2 the price of the ABS, so I'll try this. It's solid black, so it'll match the boat. Nice and flexible-ish, good formability with mild heat, and you can bend/flex it till you're tired and it won't break. maybe I'll make a little T-deck wind deflector out of it too.

« **Reply #82 on:** September 27, 2010, 07:05:05 PM »

Well, the heat today turned my sheet of PVC (that was leaning against the wall) into something that more closely resembles a wadded up piece of paper. Crap, guess I gotta find something different to make it out of. I'll get some aluminum I guess.

« **Reply #83 on:** September 29, 2010, 10:21:36 PM »

got going tonight on the pump brace/driveline safety loop.....was going good till i took a chunk outta my finger on the grinder...

got to use the new boring head on my mill....pretty slick. I'm gonna sit here and drink beer until my finger stops bleeding.

« **Reply #84 on:** September 29, 2010, 10:36:01 PM »

I like that pump brace/driveline safety loop idea, looks clean.

Put some SuperGlue on your finger, burns like hell but it stops the bleeding.

« **Reply #85 on:** September 29, 2010, 10:58:36 PM »

Look's good! Havwe one for me too!

« **Reply #86 on:** November 05, 2010, 11:58:02 AM »

So I had this idea... (grab a beer...this is a good one)...

Conventional single cable push/pull systems suck because there's alot of slop in 'em.

Calgo setups solve the slop problem, but I've read about a couple cables breaking. Cables are a wear item, and when they're in a sheath (like the calgo)..it makes it tough to inspect 'em. Plus, calgo systems are $$$

My idea is this:

I have a few old pump shafts that'll make perfect steering columns...put a flange mounted bearing on the backside of the dash and another one on the bulkhead, run the shaft between the 2 bearings and attach the steering hub to the part sticking out of the dash.

instead of the bicycle chain setup like the V-drives use, instead I'll use a drum on the shaft with about 5 or 6 wraps of cable...Run the ends of the cable threw a set of pulleys on the stringers up front, down the stringers, threw a set of pulleys on the stringers near the transom, then another set of pulleys on the transom next to/above the pump, and then out the transom through 2 holes and connect to the tiller arm. The cables though-hulls would be sealed with rubber bellows.

There would be a turnbuckle on each side cable end to adjust alignment and to adjust for cable stretch. The cables are 100% exposed for easy inspection. There are no sheaths to trap water and hide damage. I can make the system with stuff I've got in the garage...except the bearings. Cables will be stainless.

Any problems with this idea?

« **Reply #87 on:** November 05, 2010, 11:41:11 PM »

Quote from: lbhsbz on November 05, 2010, 11:58:02 AM

So I had this idea... (grab a beer...this is a good one)...

Conventional single cable push/pull systems suck because there's alot of slop in 'em.

Calgo setups solve the slop problem, but I've read about a couple cables breaking. Cables are a wear item, and when they're in a sheath (like the calgo)..it makes it tough to inspect 'em. Plus, calgo systems are $$$

My idea is this:

I have a few old pump shafts that'll make perfect steering columns...put a flange mounted bearing on the backside of the dash and another one on the bulkhead, run the shaft between the 2 bearings and attach the steering hub to the part sticking out of the dash.

instead of the bicycle chain setup like the V-drives use, instead I'll use a drum on the shaft with about 5 or 6 wraps of cable...Run the ends of the cable threw a set of pulleys on the stringers up front, down the stringers, threw a set of pulleys on the stringers near the transom, then another set of pulleys on the transom next to/above the pump, and then out the transom through 2 holes and connect to the tiller arm. The cables though-hulls would be sealed with rubber bellows.

There would be a turnbuckle on each side cable end to adjust alignment and to adjust for cable stretch. The cables are 100% exposed for easy inspection. There are no sheaths to trap water and hide damage. I can make the system with stuff I've got in the garage...except the bearings. Cables will be stainless.

Any problems with this idea?

Just run two cables on the push pull delio and snug em together like the outboard dudes do...

Or...Better yet

« **Reply #88 on:** November 06, 2010, 04:11:35 PM »

Got to doing a bit more work on the motor today....trying to sort out rocker geometry. I discovered 2 things.

Thing 1: my cam only opens the valve .650", not .720 like the cam card said. I guess it's been reground at some point. Now I get to find a new cam.

Thing 2: The machinist (that I fired) fawked up these Dart heads good.

Checking things out on cylinder 1 told me I need .100 longer pushrods for both intake and exhaust than I have now. Cylinder 3 the exhaust pushrod is the correct length. WTF? Threw a straightedge across the valve stems and I can fit a 0.040 feeler gauge in there on top of the #3 exhaust valve. Sumbitch

I checked the other side and I've got a valve that 0.070" different than the rest of em. Double sumbitch.

So I pulled the heads back off....wondereing WTF else he fawked up....and decided to dig out my burret and check the chamber volumes.

As cast chambers, head #1 looks OK...all are within 1 cc of each other...120-121ccs

Head number 2.....116 - 117 - 118 - 119

The asshole machined it on an angle, not to mention the fact that he didn't take 'em to 115 like I asked him to.

Anyone wanna buy a project tunnel? i don't have the money to keep doing this.

« **Reply #89 on:** November 06, 2010, 07:27:34 PM »

That sucks bro !!!

You need to go down there, crack him in the head with a cam, and stand on his neck for an hour or so (just for fun). If he screwed that head up that bad (116 to 119), you might want to figure a way to check the angle of the head surface the other way too. I wouldnt be surprised if that head has a bit of angle change that way too (rolled a bit in or out).

« **Reply #90 on:** November 06, 2010, 10:51:13 PM »

Quote from: propless on November 06, 2010, 07:27:34 PM

That sucks bro !!!

You need to go down there, crack him in the head with a cam, and stand on his neck for an hour or so (just for fun). If he screwed that head up that bad (116 to 119), you might want to figure a way to check the angle of the head surface the other way too. I wouldnt be surprised if that head has a bit of angle change that way too (rolled a bit in or out).

Don't add more fuel to the fire, Proppy. I think Pat's close to the Hangin' hisself point.

Ray

« **Reply #91 on:** November 07, 2010, 07:58:19 PM »

Quote from: lbhsbz on November 06, 2010, 04:11:35 PM

Got to doing a bit more work on the motor today....trying to sort out rocker geometry. I discovered 2 things.

Thing 1: my cam only opens the valve .650", not .720 like the cam card said. I guess it's been reground at some point. Now I get to find a new cam.

Thing 2: The machinist (that I fired) fawked up these Dart heads good.

Checking things out on cylinder 1 told me I need .100 longer pushrods for both intake and exhaust than I have now. Cylinder 3 the exhaust pushrod is the correct length. WTF? Threw a straightedge across the valve stems and I can fit a 0.040 feeler gauge in there on top of the #3 exhaust valve. Sumbitch

I checked the other side and I've got a valve that 0.070" different than the rest of em. Double sumbitch.

So I pulled the heads back off....wondereing WTF else he fawked up....and decided to dig out my burret and check the chamber volumes.

As cast chambers, head #1 looks OK...all are within 1 cc of each other...120-121ccs

Head number 2.....116 - 117 - 118 - 119

The asshole machined it on an angle, not to mention the fact that he didn't take 'em to 115 like I asked him to.

Anyone wanna buy a project tunnel? i don't have the money to keep doing this.

« **Reply #92 on:** November 07, 2010, 08:02:35 PM »

As we talked today...there ae 3 elements relevant to this...boils down to human error ..or bad equipment...tolerance stacking aswell...RALPH...WTF...you here

....chime in bro.

« **Reply #93 on:** November 13, 2010, 09:37:19 AM »

pat check out the steering on this thing
http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39735
ill pull the snoot off today brosef

« **Reply #94 on:** November 13, 2010, 09:46:48 AM »

Quote from: enginedoctor on November 07, 2010, 08:02:35 PM

As we talked today...there ae 3 elements relevant to this...boils down to human error ..or bad equipment...tolerance stacking aswell...RALPH...WTF...you here ....chime in bro.

valves sunk too far in heads, improper seat depth or valve length issue.

pat has already rules out #3 by measuring with the same 2 valves

and im sure it's possible to machine the deck of the head crooked but imo it would be pretty hard to do

« **Reply #95 on:** April 21, 2011, 06:23:13 AM »

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