SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: Brad @ SCJB on December 04, 2010, 11:55:49 AM
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So as you can imagine, my garage looks like a hurricane hit it after the hell thats taken place in there over the past few weeks. I am warning you, view this picture with caution - its hard on the eyes. I am actually embarrassed to post this picture, but I thought I'd give you guys an idea of what I am starting with.
[attachimg=1]
So now the race is over and the next one isnt until march, I got some time to do something about this mess.
A little about the garage....
Its 1,115 square feet (33' wide x 35' deep) It has 2 garage doors. One is a single car door (8' wide x 7' tall) and the main one is a double wide @ RV height. (16' wide x 10' tall)
It has a beer fridge (mandatory), bathroom in the back far corner, a big shop tub sink (left of the washing machine).
Obviously the first thing on the agenda is to clean this place up.
One of the man things I want to try to tackle is finishing the floor with something. Should I tile it out like Tony did? or should I coat it with a garage floor epoxy paint? What is more economical with a shop this size?
Also, I plan on picking up a larger air compressor and plumb air outlets in convenient areas around the garage.
I also obviously need to pick up some more gorilla rack storage shelves. One of the biggest problems I am fighting is I have too much space. I never thought I'd say it, but having a garage this size can cause a big problem. Mainly it allows you to collect too much junk. I'd be screwed if I ever had to move and try to cram this stuff into a average sized garage.
I need to re-work the work bench area (right far corner) Its almost useless in the state that its in. I might extend it around and a little down the right wall
Lastly, and most important, I need better lighting. What I have now is 4 florescent dual bulb shop lights. it is better then what I started with (2 inconsistent bulbs lol)
One last possible option is getting a swamp cooler mounted up on the roof. It's winter time now and not a high priority, but when the summer comes, this garage temperature easily exceeds 120 degrees when the doors are closed.
If anyone has any constructive input, suggestions or ideas, they are welcome.
Time to go get started. :beer:
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can u sell me some of that saw dust on the ground :D
but really, i dont think i would do any thing on the floors unless the owner paid for it,
haha you mean you dont have to piss in a taco bell cup anymore :o :D
just start organizing and cleaning and go from there
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I gotta agree with Ralph on the floor deal. Unless the owner is willing to pay for it I say bail. I am sure there are lots of other things you could spend the money on. If not....send it to me. ;D I like all of my shit hidden in cabinets but if you really dont care then go to Costco and get a few of those heavy duty shelving racks and go to town. Good luck with the clean up.
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can u sell me some of that saw dust on the ground :D
need it for your garden? ;)
but really, i dont think i would do any thing on the floors unless the owner paid for it,
I would agree with that, but I plan on staying here for awhile (knock on wood). I at LEAST need to fill in the gaps/cracks in the garage floor. Its a real pain in the ass moving the engine hoist or engine stands around when they get caught up in them. ..but I will propose the idea to the landlord of her helping me out covering the cost.
haha you mean you dont have to piss in a taco bell cup anymore :o :D
HAHA....shit, i forgot about that. To explain to others, when I lived in Cali, I lived in an apartment complex and my garage was detached from the apartment. So to have to stop, put shit away and close up the garage to take a piss was anything but convenient. I couldnt just go piss in the bushes either. So I had a taco bell cup I would relieve myself in, then go dump in the bushes. The bathroom in the garage now is a huge benefit. I dont have to track shit into the house either just to take a piss.
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get ahold of nodie the ironwoker have set you up with a loft at the one end of the shop. go the width of the shop then about 8 or 10 ft out and put a I beam .now you have storeage above and can pull motors/pick up what you kneed to pick . can always take down if you leave just a idea.
rusty
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Also I dont think I would go cutting any holes in the roof for a cooler on a house you dont own. I wont even do it on mine (and I own it). I just picked up the biggest cooler I could find http://sutherlands.com/products/product.php?item=7994130 (http://sutherlands.com/products/product.php?item=7994130) put it on wheels, and hooked it to a garden hose. I put it outside buy the side door and let it blow in through the door, works great. Just dont stand in front of it, its like a Hurricane.
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I'm hard pressed to feel sorry for you son, I went from a big 2 car garage and RV parking to a 10X10 storage container. I'd kill to have your dilemna. On another note, if you need some help building shelves and shit, let me know, I'm in LV more and more these days...
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Also I dont think I would go cutting any holes in the roof for a cooler on a house you dont own. I wont even do it on mine (and I own it). I just picked up the biggest cooler I could find http://sutherlands.com/products/product.php?item=7994130 (http://sutherlands.com/products/product.php?item=7994130) put it on wheels, and hooked it to a garden hose. I put it outside buy the side door and let it blow in through the door, works great. Just dont stand in front of it, its like a Hurricane.
My house has a huge sidedraft cooler plumbed in with the AC/Furnace ducting and a separate t-stat in the house right by the main one. I haven't been impressed wth it's performance, although it works, makes the house musty smelling. I'm just gonna reroute it so it only works in the garage this spring.
Portables are great! but a couple friends of mine put in the window mount deals last year (Actually, they didn't have windows, so they simply cut a hole in the wall) and wall mounted them. They work outstanding! Just gotta open a garage door a smidge to have flow through. :thumbup: Inside, they appear like a window mounted AC unit, and the bulk of it is outside. ;)
Ray
Ray
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I'm hard pressed to feel sorry for you son, I went from a big 2 car garage and RV parking to a 10X10 storage container. I'd kill to have your dilemna. On another note, if you need some help building shelves and shit, let me know, I'm in LV more and more these days...
Right there with you Skip.
I had a 3500 square foot shop and a barn that had over 4000 square feet of just storage, moved to my first house and only had a carport and a tin shed with a dirt floor.... :screwy:
Needless to say, I threw out some real "treasure"...Now that I have my side yard and tool shed along with the garage, I find I have too many projects for my facilities to, well, facilitate... ;D
Nice to have a garage, but it may as well just be a laundry room or a huge closet. :thumbdown: :thumbdown:
I will whole heartedly recommend Gorilla Racks though... :thumbup:
And if you happen to win the lottery, check out Port A Cool http://www.portablecoolers.com/prices/ (http://www.portablecoolers.com/prices/) They are nice, but not sure they are worth the coin. My Grandad had on at the house in Quartzite on the Colorado River, they work awesome...
GT
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Whatever you do, DON'T run your air lines in PVC.
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Whatever you do, DON'T run your air lines in PVC.
I did mine in pvc. Worked great for years. When I sold they were still working.
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man that place is fuked!...lol
ill be around call me when u gonna start
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b rad ive been looking for some sort of an epoxy for your floor. The best price I can find is right about a buck per square foot thats with my good guy discount ;)
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b rad ive been looking for some sort of an epoxy for your floor. The best price I can find is right about a buck per square foot thats with my good guy discount ;)
thats nuts! thats over a grand!!
www.ucoatit.com (http://www.ucoatit.com) quoted me just under $500 to do my square footage
isnt there some kind of cheap vinyl tiles I can use? something like a cafeteria floor?
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How I "roll" lmao..
They aren't cheap, but you can take them with you when you move... ;)
http://www.uline.com/BL_1783/Garage-Floor-Mats?pricode=WS749&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_term=garage%2Bfloor%20mats&utm_campaign=Facilities%2BMaintenance (http://www.uline.com/BL_1783/Garage-Floor-Mats?pricode=WS749&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_term=garage%2Bfloor%20mats&utm_campaign=Facilities%2BMaintenance)
GT
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How I "roll" lmao..
They aren't cheap, but you can take them with you when you move... ;)
http://www.uline.com/BL_1783/Garage-Floor-Mats?pricode=WS749&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_term=garage%2Bfloor%20mats&utm_campaign=Facilities%2BMaintenance (http://www.uline.com/BL_1783/Garage-Floor-Mats?pricode=WS749&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CPC&utm_term=garage%2Bfloor%20mats&utm_campaign=Facilities%2BMaintenance)
GT
the problem i have with those type of deals is that its impossible to roll a fully loaded motor on a stand or cherry picker across them. i can just see the small steel wheels just sinking into it.
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the problem i have with those type of deals is that its impossible to roll a fully loaded motor on a stand or cherry picker across them. i can just see the small steel wheels just sinking into it.
I have never had an issue...My hoist has 6" hard steel and Iron wheels and rolls OK, not great, but OK. I normally use 3/4" plywood under the hoist anyway, keeps things from getting F-ed up...
GT
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If you want to do it yourself....
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=garage+floor+epoxy&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1952366407895653550&ei=QBMATc2YN4vksQPW5cWvCw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CEgQ8wIwAg# (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=garage+floor+epoxy&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1952366407895653550&ei=QBMATc2YN4vksQPW5cWvCw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CEgQ8wIwAg#)
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ya i tiled my shop and they are already showing signs of wear and tear i would epoxy it if you are going to be doing hard core work in their. if you were just going to park things on it the tiles work pretty well. also if you screw up a tile you can just replace it just make sure you buy some extras.
either choice will work but i am favoring my epoxy floor over my tile one.
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ya i tiled my shop and they are already showing signs of wear and tear i would epoxy it if you are going to be doing hard core work in their. if you were just going to park things on it the tiles work pretty well. also if you screw up a tile you can just replace it just make sure you buy some extras.
either choice will work but i am favoring my epoxy floor over my tile one.
what kind of wear are you seeing? oil stains?
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SCJB's resident Architect suggests you consider the following points.
Tile or Epoxy floors: Tile floors are nice for car showrooms but they have problems in garages.
1) the grout joints are harder to clean than a bare concrete floor.
2) the type of tile needs to be very strong like a HD porclean or glazed paver which adds cost. Also Pavers are thicker and you will have a threashold problem at the doors. (in new construction we would depress the floor but I think ripping out your concrete floor might be out of the budget)
3) the floor you put it on has to be in great shape. You say you have cracks and gaps in it, that tells me something is moving and that will pop the tiles.
4) another reason tile pop is expansion / contraction due to extreme temp changes and it sounds like your garage is the poster child for that.
Stick to the epoxy if you do anything, prep the concrete to the extreme, keep it very clean when applying and don't paint yourself into a corner.
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i used rubberized oil resistant tiles. i took a chunk out of one moving a dirt bike around with no back tire. and gas had leaked out of one of my quads onto one of the tile seams and pulled the tile back a bit. like i said i have extra tiles so this is all fixable. My shop is a warzone. i dont think either floor would hold up in there. i have something being built or repaired in there at all times. my friends use the shop as well. the tiles look awesome and they are easy to replace. if you are not doing any heavy metal fabrication then the tiles are great. but if you drop heavy metal objects on it there are going to be chunks missing.
also if you want to go with this rubberized tile stuff that i got i can probably get you enough to do your garage for damn near free.
I did my whole garage for 60 beers. lol
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thats nuts! thats over a grand!!
www.ucoatit.com (http://www.ucoatit.com) quoted me just under $500 to do my square footage
isnt there some kind of cheap vinyl tiles I can use? something like a cafeteria floor?
The stuff I quoted you is comm. use a lot diffrent than what a home owner can buy. Tile most likely isnt in the budget but it can be done. Tile will never expand and contract it isnt wood. It will only pop if the slab moves or isnt bonded with the correct product. The cafertetia stuff youre thinking about is called VCT (vinyl composite tile) you can get that stuff for .30-.40 per ft. and do it your self
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give me your footage. i might be able to pick up enough this weekend to do your garage and you will just owe me a huge favor.
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3) the floor you put it on has to be in great shape. You say you have cracks and gaps in it, that tells me something is moving and that will pop the tiles.
Sorry, I used gaps/cracks for a lack of a better word. I was referring to the seams in the slab. I dont know the technical term for them. There are no cracks/gaps from sinking/shifting. the floor is pretty flawless as far as its structure. These seams are a pain when trying to move heavy things on wheels around the garage. (ie engine stands and engine hoists)
The stuff I quoted you is comm. use a lot diffrent than what a home owner can buy. Tile most likely isnt in the budget but it can be done. Tile will never expand and contract it isnt wood. It will only pop if the slab moves or isnt bonded with the correct product. The cafertetia stuff youre thinking about is called VCT (vinyl composite tile) you can get that stuff for .30-.40 per ft. and do it your self
at 40 cents a foot, that will run me about the same as the ucoatit deal. so i might as well go the ucoatit route. ($350 to $450 bucks)
give me your footage. i might be able to pick up enough this weekend to do your garage and you will just owe me a huge favor.
its 1,115sqft (33' wide x 35' deep) ...looking to do it back/white checkered.
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Youe cracks in the floor are called expansion joints....they do that so the concrete cracks right there and prevents cracks in the rest of the floor!if you look in the seams you will see that the concrete is cracked...if you plan on filling them use something that will move with the concrete...
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i will see what i can do. but if you want them free being picky on the colors may not work. i wanted mine in black and red checker but i had to do the border in grey cause i ran out of tile.
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i will see what i can do. but if you want them free being picky on the colors may not work. i wanted mine in black and red checker but i had to do the border in grey cause i ran out of tile.
I'm not lookin for a handout. just let me know what you can get and how much. :thumbup:
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i will have my guy look in the warehouse tomorrow. hell if i can get it free why not. they do floors on huge warehouses, schools, hospitals, that kind of shit and there is always a lot left over so if i can get you some do you want them?
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i will have my guy look in the warehouse tomorrow. hell if i can get it free why not. they do floors on huge warehouses, schools, hospitals, that kind of shit and there is always a lot left over so if i can get you some do you want them?
for sure....let me know what you can get. even if its various colors, i can get creative and do areas in different colors....like the bathroom one color...laundry area another...etc.
thanks man :thumbup:
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Youe cracks in the floor are called expansion joints....they do that so the concrete cracks right there and prevents cracks in the rest of the floor!if you look in the seams you will see that the concrete is cracked...if you plan on filling them use something that will move with the concrete...
what do you suggest I use?
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what do you suggest I use?
nevermind, the company that makes the floor epoxy makes a filler just for it that comes in a caulking tube.
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even with the tiles you are going to want to fill in the joints so that would be a good place to start.
all we had at the warehouse was carpet type tile. its pretty cool for an office building or library or something like that but does not work in a garage that you are planning to do work in.
my sister put the carpet type in her garage but it was more of a hangout area than a workshop.
anyway i will keep my eyes and ears open. as they finish jobs i will see what they have left over.
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just get some marble and have me polish it
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you uptown fancy guys with all your concrete. Sheesh. Out here in BFE all we have is dirt held down with years of oil spills. Since we dont have a fancy concrete base to work with, we replaced all of our roll around stuff (pickers, tool boxes, etc) with bigger wheels. That way they roll easy over dead snakes, bugs, rocks, dirt, shoes, feet, cig butts, empty .45 shells, and used condoms.
Maybe you could save some buks on all this fancy floor work (heck, we DREAM about working on concrete where I live) and just go BIG on the tires on your stuff. Harbor freight has replacements cheap that work fine.
Not throwing darts, just saying all that talk about cracks can be solved another way.
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Haha your funny oldmx....honestly i would lay down some garage floor epoxy and fill the joints and be done with it...i believe a 5 gallon bucket covers almost 500 sq ft since most garages are 20 x 24...i believe the cost is about 80 bucks a bucket...ask that cougar of a land lord if she'll halfzies with you...it seems as though she has worked with you before...on the other hand if you give her some round eye love she'll pay for the whole shebangs.....
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Haha your funny oldmx....honestly i would lay down some garage floor epoxy and fill the joints and be done with it...i believe a 5 gallon bucket covers almost 500 sq ft since most garages are 20 x 24...i believe the cost is about 80 bucks a bucket...ask that cougar of a land lord if she'll halfzies with you...it seems as though she has worked with you before...on the other hand if you give her some round eye love she'll pay for the whole shebangs.....
How much of a cougar? >:D Anyone here want to take one for the team?
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How much of a cougar? >:D Anyone here want to take one for the team?
I'll pass.....i'd rather pay for it.
anyone seen kingpin?
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/Images/kingpin.gif)
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Bhahahaha....like tom said maybe someone will take one for the team...and for once it aibt nordie
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you uptown fancy guys with all your concrete. Sheesh. Out here in BFE all we have is dirt held down with years of oil spills. Since we dont have a fancy concrete base to work with, we replaced all of our roll around stuff (pickers, tool boxes, etc) with bigger wheels. That way they roll easy over dead snakes, bugs, rocks, dirt, shoes, feet, cig butts, empty .45 shells, and used condoms.
Maybe you could save some buks on all this fancy floor work (heck, we DREAM about working on concrete where I live) and just go BIG on the tires on your stuff. Harbor freight has replacements cheap that work fine.
Not throwing darts, just saying all that talk about cracks can be solved another way.
LOL! He aint lyin'! I found and picked up OC2Vegas's engine in Old MX's hood in pretty similar conditions, ;)
Brought my cherry picker along and it took 4 guys to even get it close, then we swung it to the side so I could back under it (Denting my truck on the way)
The expansion joints can be filled with an elasometric compound. In the concrete aisle at HD. I can get you the SKU in the morning. Dig out what you can of the fiberboard expansion joint, push in some backer rod, and fill it with the stuff. Do NOT fill it with mortar or whatever, it needs to expand and contract. Also, any tile, i don't care if it's vinyl or not, seam it at those joints and use the same material on the joint over the expansion joint. Have done it and seen it done and it lasts forever. Best way to do it is start the tile process AT the seams. If the middle ends up an odd measurement, time for a custom collage or something. Also be careful of your stemwall. If you're gonna tile up that, leave some room for expansion/contraction, cut the tile short and use the same material at the top and bottom. ;)
Ray
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I have a half inch peice of conduit in the corner I put in the crack when i wanna roll over it. I DID get my little roller chair stuck the other day and crashed all over the floor. My floor is epoxy