SoCal Jet Boats
Classifieds => Random Boat Parts For Sale => Topic started by: bobjthomson on December 04, 2017, 10:56:02 PM
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Hey brothers just wanted to see if any of u Chevy motor owners can help , pulled my motor apart to see what’s in it and found out the crank is .20 under . Has pro speed pistons and standard connecting rods . So would like some advice on a bottom rotating set up ........... Aquaholic u can stay out of this conversation
. Any help would be appreciated and I am trying to do this on a budget if I can .
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Damn!! I own a Chevy powered v-drive! You cut me deep Bob! Cut me deep!! 😓
your friendly local v-drive owner
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He heheheheheh , sorry bro , u can help out if u want , have a 30 pack just too make it up

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I'm gonna have to hit the fireball bottle to heal these wounds sir!!
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Anyways,, what are you trying to put together? You said budget, but what are you expecting from it? Trust me I know what budget means, if you ever see the yellow turd you'll be like damn, this dudes on a budget!! Lol
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Bwhahahahahahah , budget !!! Don’t want junk bottom end stuff looking about $2k , been looking and researching and all I see is Eagle this scat that and ppl talking shit about both , RPM was mentioned and some others . I want to find out who’s running what and take it from there.
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Iv ran scat and eagle stuff in a 496 I use to run in a street car with a big shot nitrous kit on top of it and never had a problem, and I drove the shit out of the car! My boat BBC has a factory gm forged crank .20 under, stock rods and factory gm forged pistons.. It has 5 seasons on it, last 2 with the lil blower on top of it. And has yet to come apart!! Knock on wood!! Lol you can put together a solid rotator for 2k.. Especially if you're not trying to stroke it...
your friendly local v-drive owner
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What you have to remember is, picking the parts is only so much of the equation. What you do with them when you get them has a lot to do with the outcome. I bought an eagle balanced rotator assembly for my 496 back in the day.. Eagle crank, scat h beam rods forged srp pistons internally balanced ready to go!! I sent it all to the machine shop with my block, and they laughed!! They said it's never "ready to go".. They had to rebalance everything, cut the crank, add Malory to balance it, it's production shit.. Everything has to go to the machine shop. You can spend 4k on a pair of brodix ready to go cylinder heads and bet money they'll need to see the machine shop to square up the valve job and the decks, cuz again production stuff.. People that bitch probably buy and slam together without making sure it's right.. 👍
your friendly local v-drive owner
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And food for thought in parts picking, what ended up wounding that 496 was a comp cams double roller timing chain set. The cam gear sheared teeth off and processed metal through the engine, wasn't bad but it had to come apart. Called comp and they said we've never heard of that happening before! Talked to a bunch of drag racers tho that were familiar with the problem! I've only ran billet timing sets since then! Hope that all helps. 😅👌
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Thanks brother v drive owner lol , I know I will have to get everything machined, it’s the correct thing to do , sure u can bolt it up as soon as u get it but some ppl just don’t get it .
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And those are the people that talk shit! Scat and eagle are great company's for the budget, along with factory gm forged! I'm assuming your playing with a
.30 over 454? Stay away from anything procomp!!!! And You also don't need a 2000$$$ dragon slayer crankshaft for a budget build to make good hp.... Lol
your friendly local v-drive owner
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I know I don’t want to drop $2k on just the bottom end I just want it done right , as far as I know the old set up lasted 15 years and I want it to last the same , I have a total budget for the whole motor , new heads , gaskets , tooling work etc etc . Wanted all natural aspiration and not stroked . And all this done before next season . But if not , then will go down a different road with the motor and Hull . All in all I just want to get back on the water , drink beer and hang out with good ppl

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OK.. So the crank is. .20 under, does it need to be cut? Is it rough? If so Cut the sob. .30 , they make bearings that size for a reason. Hone it, ring it, bearing it, have alil head work done, I saw you have oval ports on it. What ovals? We can make it a better long block for 2 k easy!!
your friendly local v-drive owner
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I'm assuming again it wasn't hurt when you pulled the engine out?
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Psi oil pressure when warm . As for the crank it’s good , no scoring on the journals and the rod bearings look good . Wanted new aluminum heads on it to help it breath better . Just concerned about the crank being .20 under as I have seen them let go . Last thing I need is that lol
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Stupid I pad , No the motor was not hurt , ran great, comp test read 130psi all round and oil pressure was 55-65 psi when warm
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Just tired in my book
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As u can see on the block on the upper left the freeze plug breached and was pissing water .
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I wouldn't worry about a 20 under crank but that's just me . sounds like fresh small parts .fresh pump ,Polish and bearings and the proper oil... Lol seems like you have a basic rebuild ahead of you.. The head thing is gonna be your voodoo!! But remember, aluminum heads are gonna change weights in the boat, not sure how your boat handles, cuz it's a shallow v v-drive. Maybe means nothing.. But I'm fighting weight in my flatty trying to make it works properly..
your friendly local v-drive owner
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I'm thinking, for me ,this winter,, a big change in iron cylinder heads, a slide of my engine way farther forward and a change in the fuel I run may fix my issues!!! 😅😅
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Crazy I was shunned from responding,, but I'm what you got!! Sorry Bob.. The Facebook deal has killed this site.. You really only get us non face Book people that keep up with this app.. cuz we like the O.G... I'm sure eventually we'll never know about the events cuz you'll have to be a Facebook whore to know about them!! I guess when your pants get to big you have to wear them!!
your friendly local v-drive owner
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My hull is heavy and I think I would benefit from shedding some weight lol . But when I get this figured out , going to start a blower motor from scratch and take my time building it , already got a 4bolt main block to start with . As for the oil , I use brad penn 50w , love the stuff . Have Tom rebuilding my hall craft v-drive and I am rebuilding the trans . Getting new flush fit gas tanks and prepping all the rigging for paint . Then in 2019 doing the whole hull in new gel .
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You know what you're doing Bob!! You are just trying to involve the group, or what's left of it.. Lol.. I get it 😎😎
your friendly local v-drive owner
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I wouldn't worry about a .20 cut crank imo.
I got a 461 na deal 10.5-1 and a .30 gm crank , speed pro pistons, 049 heads,
She spins 6200-6400 haven't had any thing that makes me worry about it. And it's the original 2 bolt block the boat came with in 1980.
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Vdrive and Chevy?! Man, you MUST be on a budget!!!! Lol!
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My wife says I am in a budget ......... shhhhhhh don’t tell her how much I will be spending lol
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We know you Ford guys are not on a budget!! Gotta be amex card rich to build one of those things that actually run!!!!
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Which rods do you have? Is your crank steel or cast?
Having the crankshaft ground undersized can actually increase its strength IF a substantial fillet radius has been ground into the inside corners.
Chances are that you can make good power with your original parts.
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Have forged crank and gm rods . Lol was just told the same thing
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Lmao!! Bob was just playing! He knows what's up! He just wanted to see what we would all say!! 😁
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Shhhhhhhh u numpty lol
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U at work bro ?
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Nah, got off at 1130 pm, cooking spaghetti now!! Lol
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Have forged crank and gm rods . Lol was just told the same thing
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There are at least three different sets of GM BBC rods capable of different power levels.
Would like to mention that, Manley H-beam rods are pretty nice but on the heavy side. They are an imported forging that is domestically machined. Every Manley set that I have been involved with has been within tolerance and balanced.
I don't have any experience with Scat or Eagle, but some of the other imports, typically have had to send out two rods, from every set, to be sized.
With that being said, if you need to resize your rods and/or replace the fasteners (requiring resize), the cost of a new set of rods doesn't look bad at all.
If you feel the need to buy new rods and/or a new crankshaft, you are really selling your build short by not building a stroker.
Otherwise the money would be better spent on better heads and roller cam.
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Thanks bro

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So I hit the jack pot today , got a forged cranks and a steel crank for ............... wait for it ...........$125 lol both have never been ground and only need polishing thank the river gods


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Hell yeah man. Thats awesome
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So I hit the jack pot today , got a forged cranks and a steel crank for ............... wait for it ...........$125 lol both have never been ground and only need polishing thank the river gods 

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What are you gonna do with your. .20 under forged crank you're taking out of your block?? 😎
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Was going to junk it but if u want it it’s yours
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Was going to junk it but if u want it it’s yours
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Did you say junk? Then heck ya he wants it!!?? Lol
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Lmfao
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Come an get it
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