SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => Sand => Topic started by: 2savage4you on April 03, 2009, 07:36:37 PM
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I will be using my yota as my tow vehicle until i find me a full size truck that i like... So its time to do some tow vehicle maintenance. I know most of you guys have newer vehicles and really dont have to worry about this stuff , but these older trucks we got to stay on top off...This all worked out good cause i started to get a vibration between 40-50 It was telling me something and i knew what she was saying ;)
here is the rear drive shaft, front U joint........ :sly:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2F001-103.jpg&hash=75a188409c46ce420fd2fb1dda7ca8ec749d7038)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2F002-88.jpg&hash=0e99930c28f677b8495e7df3b825dc045c13c0d4)
I think that powder you see was the bearings at one time
And these are completely dry, not one ounce of grease
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2F004-74.jpg&hash=d7e66e00751a2ec19f6117115e1583739c647b4a)
this one is the rear U joint..
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2F006-42.jpg&hash=5643ac78fc1a25851eacab5bcc1dd1ec942c5ce0)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2F007-45.jpg&hash=817020fb999470670d1892acf03b07c129b0cb51)
And the new ones that went in ;D Heavy duty bitches................
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2F005-58.jpg&hash=5eea02a0728a9add19f63a6591f4133c67562295)
now there is one thing i dont understand, why dont they have zerk fittings so this problem can be kept to a safer level?
I am real surprised i didnt throw that drive line right out from under the truck. I think they might even be the original U joints..
Summer is here guys, lets check our equipment... I dont want to hear about any of you guys getting broke down or in an accident because of being too lazy to check something.... I am guilty of just that... didnt want to deal with it but the Yota spoke up and i had to fix her ;)
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what kind of full size truck are you looking for?
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what kind of full size truck are you looking for?
I dunno , I guess whatever catches my eye for the right price ???
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alot of U joints that I used to sell when I worked at autozone had zerks on them lol.
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alot of U joints that I used to sell when I worked at autozone had zerks on them lol.
I bought these @ Autozone
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how about a 91 F-350 4x4 crew cab with a 95 front end on it (courtesy of 78 cent who decided to knock over a light pole with the original front end)
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how about a 91 F-350 4x4 crew cab with a 95 front end on it (courtesy of 78 cent who decided to knock over a light pole with the original front end)
A Ford ??? (https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi223.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd269%2F2savage4you%2Fford.jpg&hash=5231c49d70e171e8825b4d7bea494712e6ae80f2)
Just joking, what are you looking to get for it ::)
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$5000.00 obo.
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$5000.00 obo.
Im sure its worth the price asking but I just read the F-350 part, thats probably more truck than i need.... A 1/2 ton would be fine ;)
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Arent you close enough to the ramp to just push the boat there!
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it's real good at launching a boat without a launch.......
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alot of U joints that I used to sell when I worked at autozone had zerks on them lol.
The heavy duty u joints dont have them because it makes them weaker. At least thats what I read in a 4x4 mag.
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I used to own a 1984 Toyota 4X4 with a turbocharged Celica motor in it (it made like 290 HP at 14 PSI boost), had a five speed trans. and 4.56 gears with 35" BFG Mud Terrains, one day I was driving home for lunch and was doing like 40MPH and the nose of the driveline blew off the tailshaft of the trans., it hit the ground so hard it actually broke the frame at the leaf spring perches and lifted the truck about a foot and a half off the ground and filled a perfectly good pair of undershorts :o
After that I actually became pretty religious about driveline maintenance, it never happened to me again and I always had a driveline hoop on my 4 wheel drive trucks...
Good catch Steve... ;)
GT
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Arent you close enough to the ramp to just push the boat there!
Yes , but im old :sly:
The heavy duty u joints dont have them because it makes them weaker. At least thats what I read in a 4x4 mag.
That makes sense.
I used to own a 1984 Toyota 4X4 with a turbocharged Celica motor in it (it made like 290 HP at 14 PSI boost), had a five speed trans. and 4.56 gears with 35" BFG Mud Terrains, one day I was driving home for lunch and was doing like 40MPH and the nose of the driveline blew off the tailshaft of the trans., it hit the ground so hard it actually broke the frame at the leaf spring perches and lifted the truck about a foot and a half off the ground and filled a perfectly good pair of undershorts :o
After that I actually became pretty religious about driveline maintenance, it never happened to me again and I always had a driveline hoop on my 4 wheel drive trucks...
Good catch Steve... ;)
GT
Thanks, the part that could have been bad was, i raced another truck accross the bridge coming home from work with those f-up joints......
Whoops :screwy:
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you race people in the 2sav mobile?
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you race people in the 2sav mobile?
Heck yeah! That truck is a sleeper!!
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now there is one thing i dont understand, why dont they have zerk fittings so this problem can be kept to a safer level?
I am real surprised i didnt throw that drive line right out from under the truck. I think they might even be the original U joints..
As a Toyota tech, I can tell you that only the 4 x 4 drivelines have greaseable u-joints. Been that way for as long as I can remember. I can't remember the laast time I had to replace a u-joint on any Toyota truck......
When you use a heavy-duty, non-greasable joint, it doesn't hurt to pull the caps and add a little grease before assembly.
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you race people in the 2sav mobile?
You would be surprised at the amount of people who think im a teenager driving that truck..... And that is who always wants to run with me :screwy:
Little do they know im 40 years old... I get them going then i slow down , i dont want no damn ticket for stupid shit >:D
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lets race steve ;D
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I can get half tons all day long pretty cheap...seen a lifted 04 gmc 2500hd go for 4k needed a little work...seen my exact truck "not mine" go for 11k...nissan titans are a dime a dozen...dodges don't get me started I can get them for next to nothing...shit we bought an srt10 crew cab dodge for 13k...so you know that's the one with the 505hp viper motor in it...its all about what you want...if someone wants a vehicle lemme know I may have what you need...I have a car salesman liscence...I know I'm scum!
Thread officially jacked
What were we talking about?
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steve there is a nice titan down this way on the corner for 8000 obo silver xtra cab i think 4x4
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lets race steve ;D
Ok but to make it even i have to put my truck up on blocks too ;D
or is it a rollin chassis yet :sly:
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Ok but to make it even i have to put my truck up on blocks too ;D
or is it a rollin chassis yet :sly:
You just made for a funny visual of two guys sitting in dismantled trucks making "Vroom vroom" noises ;D
That's funny right there, I don't care who you are.... :D
GT
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You just made for a funny visual of two guys sitting in dismantled trucks making "Vroom vroom" noises ;D
That's funny right there, I don't care who you are.... :D
GT
I think i could take em ;D
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Ok but to make it even i have to put my truck up on blocks too ;D
or is it a rollin chassis yet :sly:
that hurts ;D i really dont even consider that a truck anymore all i have left is the cab and doors but i did just get a custom tuner for my diesel with 8 setings up tp +250hp looks like ill be needing a new trans. soon >:D
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believe it or not my drive shaft fell out of my truck yesterday. ford house wants 1500what the hell..
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I just recently installed u-joints in my Avalanche and also in my Crown Vic.
The parts were only like $9 w/ 1year or $17 for the lifetimes.
Thing was the cheaper ones had the zerks. Very easy to install in my opinion.
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Aqua,what is the 1500 for?A new driveshaft?my dads a parts manager at a ford dealer :thumbup:
let me know what you need!
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Same thing happened to Nordie last week. He can jump in and tell ya about it. Dealer wanted some crazy amount, he got parts for like $20.
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Went to check the U-joints on my boat, twenty inch driveline between the seats. Ended up replacing the interior , a motorplate and detailing, replumbing and relocating my trans cooler. Oh and a new shift cable braket..........U-joints were fine.
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believe it or not my drive shaft fell out of my truck yesterday. ford house wants 1500what the hell..
i work for ford fellow scjb brother. what do you need i may have it laying around
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oh yeah definately just went through this...my truck has 105K on it diesel that aint shit!!!! anyway loaded a new to me motor in my truck and i could really hear her clunk...i knew it was going bad already but throw a few hundred pounds over the ass end and she really made some noise...i think that is a new sig line!!!!! anyway i call the dealer and they wanted like 100 bucks for one u-joint my drive line has three of em, but only one was bad anyway back to the story...so i was like ok the first one lasted 100k might as well get oem...so i show up there after i called and was told it was in stock, and the guy tells me MIA...im like wtf man i need this done today i need my vehicle...so i get pissed and goto checker and pick up a 10 dollar dealio that i really dont fucking like, but i need transportation...so i pull the driveline, and take it to the driveline shop, and lone behold i forget the clips for the u-joint...i brought the u-joint but no clips...so i ask them i forgot the clips ill just buy one of your u-joints but i want the baddest one you got...so they hook me up with the offroad diesel one made by spicer and this one is a really nice piece makes the checker job look like a joke!!!! guess what my freaking driveline is made by spicer and this one is beefier then the one chevy was going to sell me, and it cost me 28 bucks!!!!!!!!!!!! im all about using oem crap, but really are you kidding me...im sure the u-joint they were going to sell me was a spicer too!!! anyway this story is waaaaaay to long, but something to think about i suppose....hope you are paying attention eric/82daytona
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Thats what ya get for owning a chebbie :thumbdown: :thumbdown: ::) OK thread jack over ;)
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I just recently installed u-joints in my Avalanche and also in my Crown Vic.
The parts were only like $9 w/ 1year or $17 for the lifetimes.
Thing was the cheaper ones had the zerks. Very easy to install in my opinion.
U-joints without the drilling for zerks are stronger. It's also possible that the cheaper ones were made overseas. When it comes to something like u-joints, for a car or boat, buy the best you can find. Avoid the cheap stuff sold by most chain auto parts stores.
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If you are fortunate enough to have a driveline shop in your area it will almost always be cheaper to have it done by them. Besides they have the equipment to check it for balance that the dealers/parts stores don't.
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yeah we have a superb driveline shop here and u joint and istal was 46 bucks!!!!! they have done a ton of work for my family and no problems...i love mom and pop shops!!!! funny how that works sometimes
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U-joints without the drilling for zerks are stronger. It's also possible that the cheaper ones were made overseas. When it comes to something like u-joints, for a car or boat, buy the best you can find. Avoid the cheap stuff sold by most chain auto parts stores.
Do you really think that because it's expensive, then it's got to be the good stuff ?
There is a whole lot of CHINA stuff, all dressed up, nice and pretty looking, and you would swear it was made here, but it wasn't.
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honestly i dont like the u-joints with zerks call me crazy but i just dont...i like the sealed ones...the $10.80 u-joint had a zerk...the $28.00 spicer no zerk...the $104.00 gm parts one no zerk...i really like the spicer.....
Do you really think that because it's expensive, then it's got to be the good stuff ?
There is a whole lot of CHINA stuff, all dressed up, nice and pretty looking, and you would swear it was made here, but it wasn't.
i dont think he was refering to price or maybe he was, but when i call it cheap chineese crap im not neccesarily refering to the price!!!! im refering to the quality
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Do you really think that because it's expensive, then it's got to be the good stuff ?
There is a whole lot of CHINA stuff, all dressed up, nice and pretty looking, and you would swear it was made here, but it wasn't.
If you re-read my post, you'll see I said no such thing. Higher price does not necessarily equal high quality. High quality does usually come at a higher price. Low price, on the other hand does generally equal lower quality. Now this is just my observation from 30+ years in the auto repair industry................
Generally, if you want QUALITY, you shop by brand not price.
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I would agree with your assesment of price and quality.
But about the brand, I can remember when Craftsman meant the best.
Now, Half the stuff with Craftsman written on it is made in China.
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I would agree with your assesment of price and quality.
But about the brand, I can remember when Craftsman meant the best.
Now, Half the stuff with Craftsman written on it is made in China.
The only thing that Craftsman was ever "the best" at was maybe being the best value, not necissarily the best period..I will use "good but not great" as far as a tool. But great warranty.
Now on to the U-joint discuss, the solid cross joints (no zerk in the cross), even the ones with the needle zerks in the ends of the caps are by far the strongest.
Also as far as American vs. Chinese, well as much as I hate to say it, there are some very high quality joints coming from overseas.
My dad was an auto parts store owner for three decades and watched first hand the quality of American products begin to slip. Spicer (Dana) are some superior products and have some variations of their products.
Matsui (Japan) has some quality pieces, not too bad money wise (probably 20% cheaper than Spicer), but sizes are limited... :thumbdown:
Precision would be a step up on the Matsui's, still cheaper, but some are made overseas which makes it a crap shoot.
Dana/Spicer are made in the U.S. and Europe, by far (for our applications) are nearly bulletproof...Don't forget Rockwell, also a heavy hitter in the Uni joint business...
The reason the non cross drilled joints are so much stronger is that they are heat treated better and have a deeper hard facing and most are nitrided. Not to even mention there is a bunch more material in the cross of the solids...
I guess the point I am trying to make is, sometimes you get what you pay for, sometimes you don't. It's all about buyer beware and use what the people that "do it" every day recommend. It would be rare to have a "premium" U joint "on the shelf" at your neighborhood Checkers or Kragens, or even Pep Boys, they will more than likely have to be brought in special. (don't mean to offend with those sentiments). Typically, the stores stock what sells, an example would be: You go in the store to buy a couple U joints for your car and they have one set for $55 ea. and another for $24 ea., which ones are you gonna buy?...IMHO that is why America is in le Shitor. :thumbdown:
GT
A joint is also only as good as it's installation, you would be both suprised and amazed at how many people screw it up....