SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => The No Wake Zone => Topic started by: 19Haskell82 on March 29, 2015, 06:24:30 PM
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We g$ boat when we get home 😰
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We g$ boat when we get home 😰
. Not good sir👎
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Detonation ouch. Been there. Just had to replace the piston on mine hopefully you'll get lucky.
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No bueno
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Same thing happened to me 10 months ago. Looked exactly the same. Just brought back horrible memories. And it was very no good. I wish you luck and hope for the best.
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We g$ boat when we get home 😰
What cylinder is that from?
GT
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#1
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Number 1 on a BBC 454 punched 60 over
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Number 1 on a BBC 454 punched 60 over
What are you running for a cooling system?
GT
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Pretty standard... Tap off the Berkeley with 12 psi bypass, 12v solenoid with a ball valve for the headers..with two 5/8 lines for the dump side... Motor usually less 3 pounds on the pressure gauge on the intake. I have never seen over 5psi at wot.
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Pretty standard... Tap off the Berkeley with 12 psi bypass, 12v solenoid with a ball valve for the headers..with two 5/8 lines for the dump side... Motor usually less 3 pounds on the pressure gauge on the intake. I have never seen over 5psi at wot.
I see several problems with this set up. Anybody else see it?
Let me get some time later today to give you a detailed response. You simply cannot run it line that. All sorts of wrong.
GT
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Picture of how it goes into the motor (large cross over tube solid one piece with center inlet 12 an)
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This is the diagram
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Take all this with a grain of salt.
You stabbed yourself in the foot, twice.
By having the dual dump lines, you have eliminated any chance of ever building the proper block pressure. I do not recomended EVER running an engine hard without at least about 10 psi water pressure. More on that later.
The other thing you did is you are running that motor way too cold. By running that bypass, you did not take flow into account. This is the number one reason I dislike that valve so much. It's a false sense of security.
That valve, even with it set at 12 psi, is wide open to the system, with zero chance of ever bypassing. So basically, it may as well not even be there. It is doing nothing at all for you.
I would eliminate one of the two dump lines, leave the bypass and install a gate valve either before or after it. (Prefer before).
Then do the valve adjustment procedure based on water temp.
Cylinder number one would have had the absolute coolest cylinder temp with the hottest combustion chamber. You had way way way too much water flow. What was your temperature gauge reading? Anything?
GT
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Ok. There is a valve before the bypass. Temp is between 190-210° depending on conditions.(with a manuel temp gauge in the intake).. The second dump line was added cause it was running around 230. As is the water comes out steaming hot.
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Ok. There is a valve before the bypass. Temp is between 190-210° depending on conditions.(with a manuel temp gauge in the intake).. The second dump line was added cause it was running around 230. As is the water comes out steaming hot.
You have problems. The engine should never run warmer than about 160°F.
GT
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With 210°F water at only 5 psi, it simply cooked itself imho.
GT
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OK, I had had some time to go through this thoroughly...
I have come up with three critical mistakes. Please don't take any offense, just trying to help. ;)
The thermostat housing is plumbed completely incorrectly. The upper and lower outlets are not correct. There should be a bypass tee at the inlet on the incoming water. Do you have the spring and the plunger installed on top of the stat?
With two dump lines, you cannot build enough pressure to eliminate steam pockets.
I do not like the way the header valve is plumbed, I believe it has the potential to overfeed.
The thermostat tower should have water from the jet pump going to the top holes of the stat housing. The two lower holes should go one overboard and one to the header valve.
When the engine is cold (below thermostat temperature range) the water flows from the jet pump, to the front of the engine and the top two holes of the stat housing, the water bypasses from the top of the stat to the lower holes allowing water to flow overboard and keep the headers in cooling water.
When the engine warms up (water temperature above the thermostat range) the bypass plunger closes and water flows from the thermostat and out the lower holes on the stat housing. the thermostat now has control of the leaving water temperature and will open and close based on engine load and cooling needs. The bypass plunger will float based on the amount of water flow needed. Always keeping the flow to the dump line and header valve consistent.
The reason you want to keep pressure on the water system is two fold, one to eliminate air from the system, air locking is a huge concern on an open cooling system, the second is to raise the boiling point of the cooling water and prevent steam pockets from forming.
What you have going on there is literally no flow at all until everything is so hot that you're introducing cold ass water right to the front of the block and with such low flow extremely hot water at the front cylinder combustion chambers. This is the number one reason I dislike the stat kits so much. Too great of a delta between cylinders 1 and 2 and the heads at cylinders 1 and 2. I know you guys all think I ma just an anal POS about that but think about it for a moment. The water is entering the engine at say 60°F and it leaves at 160°F? there is literally a 100°F differential between the front cylinder walls and the heads on the same cylinders.... That IMHO is ginormous.
Reroute a couple lines, eliminate one dump line, and I think you will be OK. Also, make sure the plunger and the spring are in there.... They simply have to be.
Unfortunately, the heads need to come off... I hate doing chit twice... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I think this is totally correctable with little drama, unfortunately, the damage is done.
Let me know if I can be of any help at all... This is not my first rodeo... :thumbup:
GT
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OK, I had had some time to go through this thoroughly...
I have come up with three critical mistakes. Please don't take any offense, just trying to help. ;)
The thermostat housing is plumbed completely incorrectly. The upper and lower outlets are not correct. There should be a bypass tee at the inlet on the incoming water. Do you have the spring and the plunger installed on top of the stat?
With two dump lines, you cannot build enough pressure to eliminate steam pockets.
I do not like the way the header valve is plumbed, I believe it has the potential to overfeed.
The thermostat tower should have water from the jet pump going to the top holes of the stat housing. The two lower holes should go one overboard and one to the header valve.
When the engine is cold (below thermostat temperature range) the water flows from the jet pump, to the front of the engine and the top two holes of the stat housing, the water bypasses from the top of the stat to the lower holes allowing water to flow overboard and keep the headers in cooling water.
When the engine warms up (water temperature above the thermostat range) the bypass plunger closes and water flows from the thermostat and out the lower holes on the stat housing. the thermostat now has control of the leaving water temperature and will open and close based on engine load and cooling needs. The bypass plunger will float based on the amount of water flow needed. Always keeping the flow to the dump line and header valve consistent.
The reason you want to keep pressure on the water system is two fold, one to eliminate air from the system, air locking is a huge concern on an open cooling system, the second is to raise the boiling point of the cooling water and prevent steam pockets from forming.
What you have going on there is literally no flow at all until everything is so hot that you're introducing cold ass water right to the front of the block and with such low flow extremely hot water at the front cylinder combustion chambers. This is the number one reason I dislike the stat kits so much. Too great of a delta between cylinders 1 and 2 and the heads at cylinders 1 and 2. I know you guys all think I ma just an anal POS about that but think about it for a moment. The water is entering the engine at say 60°F and it leaves at 160°F? there is literally a 100°F differential between the front cylinder walls and the heads on the same cylinders.... That IMHO is ginormous.
Reroute a couple lines, eliminate one dump line, and I think you will be OK. Also, make sure the plunger and the spring are in there.... They simply have to be.
Unfortunately, the heads need to come off... I hate doing chit twice... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I think this is totally correctable with little drama, unfortunately, the damage is done.
Let me know if I can be of any help at all... This is not my first rodeo... :thumbup:
GT
. GT just a quick question on this. I have heard some of the guys over 700 horse power running two -8 dumps have you heard of this.
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. GT just a quick question on this. I have heard some of the guys over 700 horse power running two -8 dumps have you heard of this.
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Absolutely. Basically because of the amount of cooling water needed. The pressure is still above 10 PSI though.
I don't have an issue with the dual dump lines if they are sized correctly, but obviously 19Haskell82 has too much dump if the pressure is only 5# WFO.
Somewhere on the boards there is a formula that you can use to come up with required water flow, but it is strictly for pump type gas, I have not done alcohol or race gas.
GT
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Absolutely. Basically because of the amount of cooling water needed. The pressure is still above 10 PSI though.
I don't have an issue with the dual dump lines if they are sized correctly, but obviously 19Haskell82 has too much dump if the pressure is only 5# WFO.
Somewhere on the boards there is a formula that you can use to come up with required water flow, but it is strictly for pump type gas, I have not done alcohol or race gas.
GT
This is a lot of great info GT jets can I hit you up when I plumb my motor In
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This is a lot of great info GT jets can I hit you up when I plumb my motor In
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You know you can. My fees are quite reasonable... :sly:
;D
GT
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Absolutely. Basically because of the amount of cooling water needed. The pressure is still above 10 PSI though.
I don't have an issue with the dual dump lines if they are sized correctly, but obviously 19Haskell82 has too much dump if the pressure is only 5# WFO.
Somewhere on the boards there is a formula that you can use to come up with required water flow, but it is strictly for pump type gas, I have not done alcohol or race gas.
GT
. Thanks GT I'm on race fuel 110 and 116 with nos. I had one -8 before and I never could get boat below 165 at idle it would go to 180 even wide open valve. I do run a pressure relieve as well.
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. Thanks GT I'm on race fuel 110 and 116 with nos. I had one -8 before and I never could get boat below 165 at idle it would go to 180 even wide open valve. I do run a pressure relieve as well.
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What is the relief set for? And what size is the hole in the dump fitting?
GT
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What is the relief set for? And what size is the hole in the dump fitting?
GT
. I have it set for 14psi. I had one go bad before the motor get's hot quick when you are kicking most the water back over board. Block is clean as a whistle. I'm ok with the 165 but would prefer 140 and I'm re plumbing the complete boat and changed to two -8 dump line to archive this. I know must the guys I run with have one -10 dump and the seem fine. I run two gauges one in the manifold and one in the block.
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. I have it set for 14psi. I had one go bad before the motor get's hot quick when you are kicking most the water back over board. Block is clean as a whistle. I'm ok with the 165 but would prefer 140 and I'm re plumbing the complete boat and changed to two -8 dump line to archive this. I know must the guys I run with have one -10 dump and the seem fine. I run two gauges one in the manifold and one in the block.
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Gonna give away a secret here..... How large is the hole in the dump fitting (thru-hull)?
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You know you can. My fees are quite reasonable... :sly:
;D
GT
12 pack?
18 pack?
30 pack?
Handle of crown?
Handle of johnny walker black?
All of the above? :sly:
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12 pack?
18 pack?
30 pack?
Handle of crown?
Handle of johnny walker black?
All of the above? :sly:
So check it... Sit down and have a beer with me and lets go for a ride in the finished product.... Pretty fair right? :sly:
GT
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Gonna give away a secret here..... How large is the hole in the dump fitting (thru-hull)?
. I have 1/2 but -8 is only 3/8
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. I have 1/2 but -8 is only 3/8
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A single 8AN Earle's smooth liner hose is only good for about 500HP, the outlet hole size should be greater than 3/8" so I would say swap out for a 10AN or two 8AN with 5/16" outlets. You must be close to 750-800 HP if it runs hot on 110.
Make sure there is pressure in the system. I'm liking the 14#... :thumbup:
GT
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Also, I like to run larger hose with a smaller outlet dump. I believe it reduces guesswork. I have one on my boat that has "pills" I made with different size holes.. It's weird, but it works.
GT
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A single 8AN Earle's smooth liner hose is only good for about 500HP, the outlet hole size should be greater than 3/8" so I would say swap out for a 10AN or two 8AN with 5/16" outlets. You must be close to 750-800 HP if it runs hot on 110.
Make sure there is pressure in the system. I'm liking the 14#... :thumbup:
GT
correct as always 780 hp then add a 300 shot. It will not be on the nos very often couple passes a weekend. The motor was built as a nos motor by Bostick racing so should be good. I will let you know how the two -8 work out. Thank for the conversation Glen. 👍🍻
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correct as always 780 hp then add a 300 shot. It will not be on the nos very often couple passes a weekend. The motor was built as a nos motor by Bostick racing so should be good. I will let you know how the two -8 work out. Thank for the conversation Glen. 👍🍻
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I had problems in the beginning with my first motor getting hot at idle. Switched from single -8 to single -10 dumps fixed, the problem. #hpproblems
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O
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I had problems in the beginning with my first motor getting hot at idle. Switched from single -8 to single -10 dumps fixed, the problem. #hpproblems
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. Thanks Jake
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So check it... Sit down and have a beer with me and lets go for a ride in the finished product.... Pretty fair right? :sly:
GT
Hells ya! That is beyond fair. I would say a fricking bargain.
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I had problems in the beginning with my first motor getting hot at idle. Switched from single -8 to single -10 dumps fixed, the problem. #hpproblems
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That is same set up on blower motor and runs 150 all day. 👍👍
"RTCP"
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With 210°F water at only 5 psi, it simply cooked itself imho.
GT
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Possibly, RPMs, how long into the throttle. Increase to 15-20 PSI water pressure may help in the future.
Maybe I missed something but what is the compression ratio, what is the total timing (is it correct) what is the max RPM and what octane fuel is he using.
HD