SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => The No Wake Zone => Topic started by: Brad @ SCJB on October 18, 2014, 04:49:22 PM
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So this pile is now leaking around 1qt every 2 weeks. Can't tell where its coming from. Oil everywhere. The pic below is from sitting an hour. I'm going to have to put dye in it and black light it. Its now to the point where it's leaking all over the exhaust and leaving a nice big white smoke screen everywhere go I. Fuggin embarrassing.
Its an '07 with a 5.3L in it. 166k miles. Anyone know of any known issues with this motor leaking like this? Did the oil pan gasket about a year ago.
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rear main seal & retainer plate gasket most common, next would be the cam position sensor middle top rear of block, cam sensor will drip down thru weep hole at rear of block over top of RMS
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My 2002 tahoe had the rear main leaking and it leaked in the exhaust and smoked pretty bad. But mine was also leaking from the transmission. I got the a new trans and the rear main done and no more leaks.
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aww what the hell is this? i was thinking about ditching the navigator for a tahoe. i thought the 5.3 was bulletproof?
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aww what the hell is this? i was thinking about ditching the navigator for a tahoe. i thought the 5.3 was bulletproof?
It can still be bulletproof and have a few leaks... Haha
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My Yukon has Yukon has 210k and still rolling just fine
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Your Yukon has Yukon?!!! Damn that's an easy 500k... Lol
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Damn double post
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My transmission shop is in OC if needed bring it by ill have one of my guys check it
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My transmission shop is in OC if needed bring it by ill have one of my guys check it
Where at in OC? My uncles dodge 3500 cummins has been having shift issues from 2-3rd.
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Put a pint of brake fluid in it. It will soften the seals and stop the leak, it's an old used car lot trick
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Put a pint of brake fluid in it. It will soften the seals and stop the leak, it's an old used car lot trick
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I just googled this. Everything I've read says yes, it will work, but only for a short time and makes the problem worse in the long run. The brake fluid swells the seals, but the seals eventually fall apart and makes it leak 10 times worse.
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I did it to an old Plymouth station Wagon I towed with 727 tourqeflight trans it lasted for ever that way. Did you check to make sure it's not a sending unit leaking? Is it oil or red atf?
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Great deals to be had on Rams, if'n you want to upgrade.
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Dodges have a band adjustment for 2-3 shift slip. There is a jam nut on the driver side of trans. You could try to give it a 1/2 turn and see if it gets any better
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But Brad's truck isn't a Dodge.
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Sorry for the confusion I was talking about the cummins with a 2-3 shift problem. I'f there is one thing dodge can't do right is find a auto trans that works. 5.9 or 6.7 with a manual great. With an auto it's only a matter of time
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Also Lucas makes some trans slip additive that works pretty good. It's a bandaid but it works
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My moneys on the rear plate
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In Garden Grove, 12612 Garden Grove Blvd Garden Grove 92843.. Just east of Harbor 714 534-3300 ask for Dwayne plan on dropping it off as we are busy, I have enterprise rental cars available for $25.00 a day too
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Sorry for the confusion I was talking about the cummins with a 2-3 shift problem. I'f there is one thing dodge can't do right is find a auto trans that works. 5.9 or 6.7 with a manual great. With an auto it's only a matter of time
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Thanks man! I'll give it a shot!
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Just dealt with a 5.3 in a Tahoe the valley cover was leaking. if so replace the knock sensor seals while you're there.
Also the sensor at the back of the block was leaking and that comes out of the plastic part where its crimped.
And the biggest leak of all was the rear main seal if your starter bolts are dripping wet with oil chances are that's where it's coming from.
And while the transmission is pulled back you might as well do the front pump seal to.
I just did this to a customers tahoe 6 months ago.
The nice part about it is you don't have to pull the transmission all the way out just slide it back about 8 inches.
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Build like a rock huh? Those design engineers sure know how to keep the wrenches busy.
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Build like a rock huh? Those design engineers sure know how to keep the wrenches busy.
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Couldn't have said that any better myself...
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I have an appointment tomorrow morning to drop it off at a shop SCJB member Chad krieger works at. Gary, I will pass along the advice of replacing the other seals/gaskets while its apart.
I have like $4,500 left on this loan, been looking forward to no truck payment for awhile now, I just dont have the heart to trade it in. This is the first expensive issue its given me in 167k miles.
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I charged the guy with the Tahoe about 600 to do the whole job all seals included it took about 9 hours to 10 hours to do the whole job on my rack.
It takes a couple hours less time if it's a two wheel drive
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I take that back I just looked at my invoice I charged him 725
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Also replace the wiring to the knock sensors if its cracked it will throw a check engine light and you'll be taking the manifold back off again.
I know you don't want to hear all this but, with a 167 K this is stuff you should be doing. it will last another 100k.
That Tahoe was at 150k when I did all that work it's about normal.:-\
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2005 Sierra w over 180,000 miles.... no major issues or any leaks whatsoever. I love my truck. I would definitely buy a GM truck again.
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I have a 99 silverado with 5.3,only problem was fuel pump at 100k, it's at 177k now no issues, also have a 03 suburban, no issues, 156k, and a 99 Tahoe with 5.7 with 70k og miles... It's all gm/vdubs in my stable.. Lol👍
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Gm trucks are way cheaper and easier to fix than just about anything else
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Build like a rock huh? Those design engineers sure know how to keep the wrenches busy.
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They leak from time to time but nothing like a pos ford
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My F 350 (460) has 256k on it and the only oil leak I have is from the front crankshaft seal just a drip and it still runs harder than a Chevy ever will...:) with the exception of the rear ABS valve, they suck.
We have a whole fleet of chevy's at the city and now going to fords.
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We've replaced a cracked vacuum hose off the valve covers and we have replaced the oil pressure sensor sending unit.....and it still leaks real bad. It seems like it leaks the most if i park it on an inclined surface (my driveway) over night and it starts pumping oil once i start it up for a bit then stops.
They pulled the inspection cover for the bell housing and its dry in there. nothing on the flywheel so the rear main has been determined to not be the cause.
Any ideas? I'll post a pic here in a sec that shows where its dripping from.
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Pics...
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Looks like it is leaking from up top. Valve cover gasket maybe ???
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Valley cover under the manifold or the rear main the rear main look dry on the Tahoe but it turns out it was leaking but it dripped right on on the starter
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We've replaced a cracked vacuum hose off the valve covers and we have replaced the oil pressure sensor sending unit.....and it still leaks real bad. It seems like it leaks the most if i park it on an inclined surface (my driveway) over night and it starts pumping oil once i start it up for a bit then stops.
They pulled the inspection cover for the bell housing and its dry in there. nothing on the flywheel so the rear main has been determined to not be the cause.
Any ideas? I'll post a pic here in a sec that shows where its dripping from.
I had a 2002 2500hd with a 8.1 ltr and it did the same thing leaked in the drive way but if I backed in the driveway it didn't leak turned out to be the pan gasket took 2 hrs to fix never leaked again
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Found the issue. The 3 rear bolts that are on the plate that covers the lifter valley were loose. I could turn them with my fingers. Also found a bunch of mouse shit up there too. Luckily no chewed up wires.
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Found the issue. The 3 rear bolts that are on the plate that covers the lifter valley were loose. I could turn them with my fingers. Also found a bunch of mouse shit up there too. Luckily no chewed up wires.
should have bought a ferd 😜. Glad to see us got it fixed 👍
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Cool deal Brad
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