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Discussion => The No Wake Zone => Topic started by: jamiemwedmore1234 on November 14, 2015, 11:43:08 AM
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Not a boat but a 1970 c-10 me and my dad just picked up truck comes with tons of after market parts going to finish it unfortunately the guy who owned it passed before it was finished so I got to pick up where he left off
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Beautiful truck.
I am armpits deep in a 1972 K5 CST Blazer.
Best GM body design of all time.
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This truck has some killer boltons newer ac Currie rear end 4 corner disc brakes all brand new motor has never been fired A little overwhelming don't know where to start
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A little overwhelming don't know where to start
Inventory!
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Inventory!
True that. Focus on what you want at the end, not the original builders dream, you may not do his dream justice.
Dreams always change. Make it yours and place an "in memory of" sticker on the back glass.
Good looking truck.
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Do you have any idea why there are bypass hoses in the intake?
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Hey Jamie, nice truck,good project for sure! BBC,can't go wrong!67 thru 72 very popular.
Boats,trucks& women,they'll all kill ya!
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Hell yeah! Favorite body style hands down! Love the shit out of my '72 c-20... 498 bigblock and 4l80... Factory almost a/c... Looks like yours is more the cruiser than hauler... Wish mine was a trailing arm like yours, they drive so much better, even a 3/4 ton. Cool thing is parts are crazy available... So pretty much anything you're gonna need to finish it, you can find.
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Oh... And hard to tell from the pic... But frame motor mounts for small block and big block are different... If the top of where it comes off the frame is flat, you may have header clearance issues... The big block mounts "dip" right off the top of the frame rail. Ask me how I fiund this out on a Friday at 11 at night... 😜
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As soon as I get it in the garage I need to separate the parts I got to sets of brand new headers long tube and short tube header clearance is going to be a problem with the newer style front end its got all new wiring harnesses the motor is a mystery bbc just don't no what size and tranny as well it's going to be fun. More pics as I go
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Dude I really like your suspension system. O'hell, like whole truck, control arms so nice,front and back,the 9"is wicked stout,BB w/o.d. trans will be killer. Early Classics in Clovis,Stan and crew,good people all around. Got some pics of mine if you allow me to post,just ask'n lol. You have fun,its a frustrating experience you'll like.
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So finally got around to getting the truck home been going through receipts bathing info truck has a Jim Meyer racing front end rack front steer ford 9 " rear end 4-11 gears 400 bbc Lots of goodies
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So, it has been awhile. What you planning on doing next to the truck?
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So, it has been awhile. What you planning on doing next to the truck?
have to wire the entire truck up lights motor everything need to plumb everything need to go over every nut and bolt with a torc wrench bleed the brakes fuel system basically it's a rolling chases motor never been fired no clue on tranny
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I bought the 28 circuit Painless kit for my 1972 Blazer, looks slick. Just not at that point in the project yet. I feel the kit was worth the $450 price tag. My factory harness was butchered pretty bad.
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Nice! Im about to rip apart my '68 for a full resto soon...
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So finally got around to getting the truck home been going through receipts bathing info truck has a Jim Meyer racing front end rack front steer ford 9 " rear end 4-11 gears 400 bbc Lots of goodies
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Nice truck! I love the color, stance, and rims. :thumbup:
Looking forward to watching it progress.
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I bought the 28 circuit Painless kit for my 1972 Blazer, looks slick. Just not at that point in the project yet. I feel the kit was worth the $450 price tag. My factory harness was butchered pretty bad.
this also has the painless kit but the truck has aftermarket power windows door locks a vintage a/c system and it's missing all the light plugs/sockets long story short I'll have my hands full learning
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Nice! Im about to rip apart my '68 for a full resto soon...
nice there's a big supply of parts for these trucks almost anything you want oem or aftermarket
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Here is a picture of my 67 that I sold a few years back.
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Nice C-10 Jamie, :thumbup:
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Finally getting around to getting this truck finished up real close some wiring plumb up the fuel system and break lines put a new trans in it upgraded the rack to a power rack close so close just put in a new fuel tank behind the rear axle
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Nice truck.
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Badass!
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Sweet"
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So just a little update finally got the truck running buuuut. 10 min into cam break in it shuts off and I stuck a valve 1 step forward 10 back. Since it's apart and was a mystery motor found out it is bored 60 over and has domed pistons in it 👍🏻now off to get both heads looked at
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So just a little update finally got the truck running buuuut. 10 min into cam break in it shuts off and I stuck a valve 1 step forward 10 back. Since it's apart and was a mystery motor found out it is bored 60 over and has domed pistons in it 👍🏻now off to get both heads looked at
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damnit, well at least now you'll have an idea of what you're working with, a little less mystery to it anyways. Good luck man, bitchin truck.
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Sorry for your misfortune.
Edit, didn't interpret the updated picture correctly
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So here's the big question why would somebody put peanut heads on a truck that was set up for the track now that the heads are off I can see what pistons and looks to be 60 over small domed piston. Somebody went through some effort to port the heads So now is the time to either fix what I have or go with a better head. Oval port it aftermarket heads what are your thoughts here are some pics
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Pics
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What is all the red shit?
I'm going to say this, just because I think it needs said, mean no offense at all.
That bitch needs to come completely apart. Measure, clean up and verify everything.
Those are the roughest surfaced pistons I've ever seen.
Sorry for the troubles bud.
GT
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Looks like they didn't no what masking tape was they painted everything but as far as pulling completely apart might be reality there has been a lot of cut corners on this truck from the previous owner I got it in pieces Here is a pinch of the custom break line that I pulled off which I'm glad I did some custom dble flares
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Isn't that a closed chamber piston dome? Wonder what the compression is like with a open chamber peanut head as well...
your friendly local v-drive owner
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Isn't that a closed chamber piston dome? Wonder what the compression is like with a open chamber peanut head as well...
your friendly local v-drive owner
no clue hoping some one will shed some light on keeping the peanut port or finding a set of ovals ports
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Head selection, like cam selection, is based largely on the RPM range that you want to operate in. That RPM range will be dictated primarily by your intended usage of the truck.
Here are some of my thoughts on the topic. I am working on writing a program to assist me in selecting heads for my applications. One is my boat, the second is my Corvette. For my boat, I want to maximize the combustion. The Corvette is intended as primarily a street car that will operate below 5500 RPM bit might see some occasional track time at the drags and road course. Currently, the boat has rectangle port heads and I'm probably going to use peanut port heads on the Corvette. Peanut ports on the Vette because I need it to get responsibly good mileage yet look and sound impressive while being fun to drive.
My research indicates the following:
Intake valve size should be 50% to 52% of cylinder bore diameter. For optimal performance, this is critical within 1-1.5%. Exhaust valve diameter is generally about 72% to 76% of intake valve diameter.
The Valve throat is the location in the port where the machined surfaces of the valve seat meets the cast surface of the port. The valve throat is the smallest fixed cross-section in the port and controls the flow through the port.
Valve throat diameter should be between 91.5% and 92.0% of valve diameter, however some OEM's use a smaller percentage to increase part-throttle velocity. To emphasize how critical this ratio is, I learned that, my first opportunity on a flow bench, I learned that I lost 40 CFM @ 28" by increasing this diameter too much. No wonder it is called the Maximum Critical Ratio.
Curtain Area is the area around the perimeter of the valve circumference multiplied by valve lift. Playing with some numbers, I calculated out some lift points were the curtain area equals the throat diameter. The attached chart takes valve stem diameter into consideration because the stem occupies space in the port.
It's important to note that at valve lifts below a point where Curtain Area is equal to Valve Throat Area, the valve seat is the greatest restriction and the port has very little influence (if any) over low lift flow. This SHOULD emphasize the importance of a quality multi-angle valve job, regardless of which heads are selected.
The flow gods emphasize port velocity as pretty much the most critical element to port flow. General consensus is that 0.6 Mach is the optimal velocity. As velocities approach the speed of sound (1.0 Mach), quality of flow is lost in a buffetting effect. And, of course the actual speed of sound changes with temperature and pressure. A value recommend for the intake port is 678.5 Feet Per Second (FPS) or 0.6078 Mach.
Bottom line, I have not found calculations for port velocity. It is also challenging because few head manufacturers/porters supply average port cross-section areas. For now, I am using engine simulation software to calculate it for me. This indicates that my rectangle port iron 188 Chevy castings, with 299/318cc intake port volumes, are in the neighborhood of 0.4 Mach at 6000 RPM on a 467 CID BBC. I would have to spin around 8500 to get close to 0.6 Mach or increase displacement. These numbers only apply to big block Chevy.
Piston CFM Demand. I am a bit shaky on this topic. I am not sure if this is the average or peak requirement. Regardless, it is recommended that the smallest head, that supports the required flow, be used, so that port flow velocity remains as high as possible without going over 0.6 Mach.
Some other points to consider: The weight savings of aluminum. Detonation resistance is also a benefit. One disadvantage, everything being equal, an additional point of compression (or one pound of boost) is required to make the same power. Both of these points are due to the thermal conductivity of aluminum conducting heat away from the combustion chamber.
Cheers,
Joe
P.S. Here is a good read on peanut port building. http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900
Edelbrock, at one time, offered a replacement part for peanut port heads, which have a smaller as-cast (not milled) combustion chamber. I can't put my hands on the part number right now though.
The posts by vortecpro on speedtalk have persuaded me to go the peanut port route. Well worth searching them out.