[chrisx2]

Hey folks, my name is Chris and so's my wife's, hence the handle.   I've got a '75 Glastron CV21 w/ Berk 12JE and 455.  Here's how the build is going thus far.  Hull needs stripped and painting- the dimwit I bought this form in MI "did it his-self", that'll have to wait till later.  The pump I'm freshening up with a 17-4 shaft & inducer w/ a new aluminum "A" impeller plus all the normal stuff-i.e.- bearing, bushings, wear ring, gaskets etc.  It has a hydraulic place diverter with the switch moved up onto the wheel-gotta keep my hands where they're needed. Plus a hot foot on the floor.

The motor was a three point mount but I am chaning that to a four point mount w/ Hardin front and rear mountings.  The block that was in there was all goofed up by captain bung-hole so that sits in the corner.  The block I sent to the machine shop and am awaiting its return is a '71 455 w/ a .010" overbore.  New Diamond custom forged 11.35:1 slugs w/ Eagle 6.735" H-beam rods.  The crank is pristine and will be milled to allot for the increased clearances I am running on the rods and mains.  The mains got new Dick Miller billet steel main caps on 1-4 along with a 5 cap halo, all studded of course.  The block was milled to accomodate these and align honed, decked to clean up the surface and set the RA for cometic MLS gaskets, torque plate bored and honed.  The heads are ProComp aluminum w/ Farrea 2.07" intakes and 1.71" exhausts w/ Comp cams double springs (288lb open seat press.) Harland Sharp 1.6:1 rollers w/ guide plates, Hydraulic-Roller lifters and I haven't picked a cam yet.  Probably in the 305 duration .595" lift on a 112-114 LSA arena, and a gear drive up front.  Edelbrock Victor intake with a 1050 Dominator up top.  Once I have it in and the driveline angles set, I'll get the measurements off to Bassett for a set of thru transom 4" headers.  Mallory Hyfire to light it.  Next winter I'm installing Autometer Phantom II gauges.

I'm in the midst of replacing the stringers right now and have the all the old stuff torn out and am in need of advice in this arena.  What would should I use to replace the stringers- Red Oak, pressure treat pine, poplar, spruce, and no I cannot afford teak wood.  Also, what epoxy would you recommend to bond them in?

Here are some pics of the purple people eater ( I hate the color) and the proposed set up.
Some help here would be appreciated 

[74hondo]

West Systems epoxy to bond the new strings in with a little matting under before you glass them completely. As for wood type I'm not sure.

[chrisx2]

I'm leaning towards using 2 pcs. of 1"x12"x16' red oak, epoxied/bonded together, mill them to shape and epoxy those into the holes, then glass over the caps and then lay in the flooring, it too will be resined on both sides before installation.

Another quick question-  Does anyone know a supplier of the 4"x4"x3' foam that was under the floor?

[mash on it]

Another quick question-  Does anyone know a supplier of the 4"x4"x3' foam that was under the floor?

Not really needed, just a sponge for water...
My 21 has NO floatation foam, not req'd in '76. Use it for a ski locker.

The cam specs you were looking at may not be to favorable if the exhaust is below the water line. ~260* @ .050 is a lot for thru transom, 240* is about all you can get away with on thru transom exhaust, or milksake time (reversion)
I'm not an Olds guy, but do you plan on having external oil returns?
I'd go with a larger impeller (AA) too.

thats all I got.
Dan'l

[rush1]

I was thinking the same thing on that cam thats a lot of over lap

[GT Jets]

Hey folks, my name is Chris and so's my wife's, hence the handle.   I've got a '75 Glastron CV21 w/ Berk 12JE and 455.  Here's how the build is going thus far.  Hull needs stripped and painting- the dimwit I bought this form in MI "did it his-self", that'll have to wait till later.

Dig those Glastrons 

The pump I'm freshening up with a 17-4 shaft & inducer w/ a new aluminum "A" impeller plus all the normal stuff-i.e.- bearing, bushings, wear ring, gaskets etc.  It has a hydraulic place diverter with the switch moved up onto the wheel-gotta keep my hands where they're needed. Plus a hot foot on the floor.

Would rather see you spend the money on a mag bronze impeller and forgo the inducer, the E pump has a very short suction area and the inducer will not be a very sound investment IMHO... Aluminum impellers should be switched out with a bronze or stainless at anything over 500 HP or 5500 RPM. Food for thought.

The motor was a three point mount but I am chaning that to a four point mount w/ Hardin front and rear mountings.  The block that was in there was all goofed up by captain bung-hole so that sits in the corner.  The block I sent to the machine shop and am awaiting its return is a '71 455 w/ a .010" overbore.  New Diamond custom forged 11.35:1 slugs w/ Eagle 6.735" H-beam rods.  The crank is pristine and will be milled to allot for the increased clearances I am running on the rods and mains. 

Four point mounts are a virtual must as far as I am concerned... 

You sure about that CR?, Where do you buy your fuel?

I think I have had a few Captain Bung-Hole motors go through my stables also... Dude gets around. 

The mains got new Dick Miller billet steel main caps on 1-4 along with a 5 cap halo, all studded of course.  The block was milled to accomodate these and align honed, decked to clean up the surface and set the RA for cometic MLS gaskets, torque plate bored and honed.  The heads are ProComp aluminum w/ Farrea 2.07" intakes and 1.71" exhausts w/ Comp cams double springs (288lb open seat press.) Harland Sharp 1.6:1 rollers w/ guide plates, Hydraulic-Roller lifters and I haven't picked a cam yet.

Three things...

The ProComp heads are for holding the garage door open on windy days, JMHO.

How did you pick springs and rockers without choosing a cam?     Should go like this   First the Cam, then choose rockers based on desired lift, then lifters to match the cam.... 

The bottom end sound stout.  Must be an Oldsmobile freak? I'm diggin' it... 

Probably in the 305 duration .595" lift on a 112-114 LSA arena, and a gear drive up front.  Edelbrock Victor intake with a 1050 Dominator up top. 

Not even in the right ZIP code... I would give a quick call to George at Clay Smith Cams (714)-523-0530, he will be able to hook you up with a grind recommendation and even set you up with a custom camshaft that will make that Olds a rocket.... Pun intended... 

You will hate the gear drive like you cannot even imagine. We have a Cloyes three gear in the little small block in our Southwind and even that is a little much. And it's the quiet one...

You simply cannot miss with the intake choice, as for the Dominator, this will support a whole bunch of HP, it will be a little finicky to get dialed in, but once tuned, look out.

Once I have it in and the driveline angles set, I'll get the measurements off to Bassett for a set of thru transom 4" headers.  Mallory Hyfire to light it.  Next winter I'm installing Autometer Phantom II gauges.

The above exhaust will not work with the cam you listed, like what was previously mentioned. Please make sure you at least have a quality oil pressure and water temp gauge with the new power plant..

I'm in the midst of replacing the stringers right now and have the all the old stuff torn out and am in need of advice in this arena.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you need some help (not physical, although I would if I could).

What would should I use to replace the stringers- Red Oak, pressure treat pine, poplar, spruce, and no I cannot afford teak wood.  Also, what epoxy would you recommend to bond them in?

The only two wood types that are recommended are Mahogany or kiln dried Douglas fir, either should be clear and really dry. Fir is stupid cheap in my area, Mahogany, not so much, my jet has Mahogany, my I/O has Fir. Don't use anything pressure treated, the resins wont soak into the wood grain and cause a poor lamination.

Here are some pics of the purple people eater ( I hate the color) and the proposed set up.
Some help here would be appreciated 

Nothing wrong with purple if it's done right... 


Welcome to the site and I love these project threads. Unfortunately I suck at taking pictures of the stuff I do...

GT

[icecreaman]

Nice project.  Seems like you are a man with a plan and you're well on your way.  As far as the stringer question, I use kiln dried Doug fir, straight cut, not the shit from Home Cheapo!  West Systems is nice stuff, but IMO it's overkill, and expensive.  I don't think any builders are using it, but I could be wrong.  I use polyester resin, same as the boat manufacturer used when they built it.   I use 3M 5200 adhesive to bed my stringers.  I fit them as close as possible to the hull shape, then apply a bed of the 5200.  I put some weight on them for a day then your ready to cover them.  I use micro balloons mixed in resin to create a paste the consistency of smooth peanut butter.  Mix it to consistency before adding your catalyst.   Then I use this to make a nice radius between the hull and the bottom of the stringers.  Use a bondo spreader or a putty knife, then wipe with your finger like applying caulk.  This helps the glass to lay flat and minimize air bubbles.    If your going to carpet them, I would use 1.5 or 2oz chopped strand, two or three layer's.  If you're going to leave them exposed, then maybe you want to use cloth instead, just looks better. I like to over lap my layer's.  Do one off the floor and up the sides of stringer to the top.  Then do the next over the top covering your first layer going down to the bottom.   Make sure you have a laminating roller to remove the air bubbles.  It's not to hard if you keep your area size workable and don't get ahead of yourself.  Wipe everything really good with acetone, wet out the fiberglass, roll out the air bubbles and squeegee excessive resin, repeat.

This is how I do it.  There are other people who do it different and get very nice results, so look around and see what seems right to you, after all it's your baby.  Good luck, Greg.

P.S. I agree about not replacing the foam.  There's better way's if you want to add floatation.

[GT Jets]

Nice project.  Seems like you are a man with a plan and you're well on your way.  As far as the stringer question, I use kiln dried Doug fir, straight cut, not the shit from Home Cheapo!  West Systems is nice stuff, but IMO it's overkill, and expensive.  I don't think any builders are using it, but I could be wrong.  I use polyester resin, same as the boat manufacturer used when they built it.   I use 3M 5200 adhesive to bed my stringers.  I fit them as close as possible to the hull shape, then apply a bed of the 5200.  I put some weight on them for a day then your ready to cover them.  I use micro balloons mixed in resin to create a paste the consistency of smooth peanut butter.  Mix it to consistency before adding your catalyst.   Then I use this to make a nice radius between the hull and the bottom of the stringers.  Use a bondo spreader or a putty knife, then wipe with your finger like applying caulk.  This helps the glass to lay flat and minimize air bubbles.    If your going to carpet them, I would use 1.5 or 2oz chopped strand, two or three layer's.  If you're going to leave them exposed, then maybe you want to use cloth instead, just looks better. I like to over lap my layer's.  Do one off the floor and up the sides of stringer to the top.  Then do the next over the top covering your first layer going down to the bottom.   Make sure you have a laminating roller to remove the air bubbles.  It's not to hard if you keep your area size workable and don't get ahead of yourself.  Wipe everything really good with acetone, wet out the fiberglass, roll out the air bubbles and squeegee excessive resin, repeat.

This is how I do it.  There are other people who do it different and get very nice results, so look around and see what seems right to you, after all it's your baby.  Good luck, Greg.

P.S. I agree about not replacing the foam.  There's better way's if you want to add floatation.

Awesome post...

I will add that it is imperative (especially on the light layup schedule of the Glastron) to get the bottom of the hull supported as to not create a crazy hook or wave.

The bottom on these is quite thin.

GT

[chrisx2]

Damn! I gotta check back more often to get the questions answered faster but here it goes......
1)  The compression ratio is calculative, stock compression distance w/ Diamond forged flat-tops w/ 3.2cc reliefs.  77cc chambers but, heads were decked to clean and set RA, and are now around 76cc.
2)  The Harland Sharp rockers are the best for any Olds engine on a budget in lieu of shaft mounted.  The have the best shaped pushrod cup out there- Crane has the worst.  I used to be a land-lubber w/ a 1400HP/830lbft. 468 in a 76 cutlass w/ a 4spd Lenco, pulled 9.73 @ 141 w/ a 3980lb car.
3)  The cam LSA (lobe seperation angle) of 112-114 degrees is less overlap than a 108 or 110, dropping the amount of reversion that occurs, not eliminating it, but lessening it.
4)  The headers, thru transom, I am contemplating moving their 4" outlets up about 11" from their stock location.  This would put them above the swim platform, but still well below the top of the transom.
5)  The procomp heads are a decent head for the money, and have plenty of material to work with on massaging the passages and port matching.  I've changed the valve/seat angles from 30 degrees to 45 degrees to pick up a little more on top end.  They don't flow as high as a thoroughly massaged set of Ebrocks, but do nicely.  The original Ga heads I've done a lot of work to but still need more money in them than I want to put.
6)  Because of the short suction housing is why it's necessary to assist feeding the impellar w/ an inducer.  I will be putting in, at a later date, a SS high helix impellar.  I just don't have 1300.00 for one right now.

My first jet was a '79 CVX 20 w/ a 460 and an E pump..........wish I hadn't gotten rid of her.  I got her for what the guy owed on it 8K, and only 16 hours.  Damn that first wife of mine.....bitch.

[GT Jets]

Damn! I gotta check back more often to get the questions answered faster but here it goes......
1)  The compression ratio is calculative, stock compression distance w/ Diamond forged flat-tops w/ 3.2cc reliefs.  77cc chambers but, heads were decked to clean and set RA, and are now around 76cc.
2)  The Harland Sharp rockers are the best for any Olds engine on a budget in lieu of shaft mounted.  The have the best shaped pushrod cup out there- Crane has the worst.  I used to be a land-lubber w/ a 1400HP/830lbft. 468 in a 76 cutlass w/ a 4spd Lenco, pulled 9.73 @ 141 w/ a 3980lb car.
3)  The cam LSA (lobe seperation angle) of 112-114 degrees is less overlap than a 108 or 110, dropping the amount of reversion that occurs, not eliminating it, but lessening it.
4)  The headers, thru transom, I am contemplating moving their 4" outlets up about 11" from their stock location.  This would put them above the swim platform, but still well below the top of the transom.
5)  The procomp heads are a decent head for the money, and have plenty of material to work with on massaging the passages and port matching.  I've changed the valve/seat angles from 30 degrees to 45 degrees to pick up a little more on top end.  They don't flow as high as a thoroughly massaged set of Ebrocks, but do nicely.  The original Ga heads I've done a lot of work to but still need more money in them than I want to put.
6)  Because of the short suction housing is why it's necessary to assist feeding the impellar w/ an inducer.  I will be putting in, at a later date, a SS high helix impellar.  I just don't have 1300.00 for one right now.

My first jet was a '79 CVX 20 w/ a 460 and an E pump..........wish I hadn't gotten rid of her.  I got her for what the guy owed on it 8K, and only 16 hours.  Damn that first wife of mine.....bitch.

Double post. Sorry.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

[GT Jets]

Still gonna say it..... Cam is too aggressive, the rpm you will need to turn to get the required numbers you want will not happen, especially with an HH.

Drop the duration unless you plan on a blower....

The torque curve gain on a jet pump is LINEAR. Meaning the faster she turns, the more torque is required. In other words, the exact opposite of the pavement pounder.

A mag bronze costs way less than a stainless and if you detail the pump with a stuffer in the bowl, not sure it will require an inducer. I am thinking the inducer will cause a cavitation issue at speed. This will reduce pump efficiency and ultimately performance. Even more so with an HH.

Just my humble opinion.

Of you do the calculation of duration and lobe centers, you will see that the valves will be open together for a frightfully long time.

The water is already in the pipes, it has little baring on where the outlets are..... Reversion will be an issue.

Just food for thought.

Please don't take offense, just trying to help you out like you asked..

I have seen too many times someone use ProComp heads and have major issues, I don't care who worked on 'em.

I grew up in a machine shop that was right down the street from Gromm Racing engines.

To quote Ralph Brunt, "cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap".

Still say its going to be an incredible project.

GT

Sent from my SGH-T989 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

[chrisx2]

The cam profile is only in theory at this time.  More than likely as you advise, I'll be dropping the duration down somewhere 240-250@.050".  The injected headers I'm researching a pressure activated switching system.  I know that the pump loads and unloads linearly, and that requires a lot of torque to get it to happen.  The A cut I've got is virtually new, so, I'm going to run that during break-in and setting the tune.  The wife and I have an agreement on this project, what I spend on the boat, I also have to foot on her.  She'd better come back with something really good and not a 20,000 dollar Virsache purse.

[chrisx2]

Out here where I am, middle of the flippin' country, there aren't a whole lot of people with jet boats aside from all out drags, palce called Blarney's Island, 800' stretch.  However, suppliers of parts is difficult out here.  Has anyone dealt with ARS marine, or Performance Jet of Sevastopol, or Jet Boat Performance.  I do deal a good amount with CP Performance as I was recomended by my brother who races Mod VP nitrous outboards.