SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => The No Wake Zone => Topic started by: TooSober on June 08, 2015, 08:44:19 PM
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I have two batteries (one for stereo, one for starter). I have them set just like perko shows me. I have a one wire alternator (not much how many amp but not a lot). I am trying to avoid dead batteries in the water. When I am beached I turn the perko switch to just the stereo. When I am running the boat should I have it in all or just the starter battery? I have heard both ways but can't get a definitive answer.
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I always ran mine on ALL and never had a dead battery. When on ALL i believe it will charge both batteries. Could be wrong....
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That's the correct way with a Perko switch. Run the stereo when you're parked off the stereo battery, switch over to the other battery to start, then switch back when you want to charge both. Realistically you should run it on only the starter battery for a bit to put the charge back into it first, then switch to all. But realistically you probably won't have any problems. They sell solenoid/isolator kits that will automatically switch it over once the starting battery gets it's charge back.
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I like running an isolator with a Perko and hard wire the stereo equipment directly to the stereo battery. You can then run the battery switch in (1) and have the stereo battery as an emergency start reserve.
This is how we did them in my shop on ski boats. You can even buy a simple on-off Perko switch for just the stereo equipment.
Pretty idiot proof.
Jmo
GT
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This post is perfect timing as I am in the middle of this myself on a new(to me) mini daycruiser I just got. The instructions show wiring battery 1 to start and bat 2 to house power. Then a cable from each battery to the isolator so it will let bat 1 always stay charged to start and open the circuit when bat 2 drops voltage. I am in the middle of rewiring this way but after reading GT'S post it makes more sense to just wire the stereo to bat 2 and leave the rest of "house" wiring alone as the stereo is the only thing I want to be sure doesn't kill the battery.
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This is what the line drawings show
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Sorry last one didn't attach
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This post is perfect timing as I am in the middle of this myself on a new(to me) mini daycruiser I just got. The instructions show wiring battery 2 to start and bat 1 to house power. Then a cable from each battery to the isolator so it will let bat 1 always stay charged to start and open the circuit when bat 2 drops voltage. I am in the middle of rewiring this way but after reading GT'S post it makes more sense to just wire the stereo to bat 2 and leave the rest of "house" wiring alone as the stereo is the only thing I want to be sure doesn't kill the battery.
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I realized I had bat 1 &2 typed wrong in first post and tried to correct it. I follow this site nightly but don't post very often so I screwed up my editing as well but u get the idea. One battery to start and perform all the functions and the other simply for the stereo makes better sense. I will finish making up my mounting plate for the isolator and make a few more cables and post the pics tomorrow night if u want. BTW I got the perco switch and isolator on amazon for @$75. It was the best price I found.
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What is the brand and model of the isolated?
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Blue sea systems add-a-battery. Part number 7650
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Also if u need any cables made I have a left over spool of #4 welder cable and the crimper, lugs and shrink tube. I can make u a few cables if u need.
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Run power of amps to all on perko an choose 1 or 2 when parked. I've been doing it this way for 12 years. I have 2 29batts.
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My reason for doing this is so I don't need to mess with the perko switch anymore. But on my pontoon boat I ran it similar to how you mentioned. There has just been too many times of me not switching back to recharge both batteries. This way I won't need to anymore
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Basically you want to hook your batteries in parallel this will keep your voltage the same but your batteries will have double the life. Your perko switch will be your positive parallel connection when in the both position. Switch it to one battery when your drinking on the beach jamming out then switch to both when ready to start and run the boat. This will allow you to charge both batteries. I would only switch to one for ignition if you completely drained the one for stereo. And can't emphasize how important it is to have the proper cable size and a good clean connection. Hope
This help you out.
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Here's a better diagram
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Here's a better diagram
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That diagram is whack.
jmo
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That diagram is whack.
jmo
lol I didn't draw it I found it. If I could have drawn one on my phone I would and basically you mentioned the same thing as this diagram but moving the positive leg for the stereo straight to one battery. Instead of to the perko switch. Besides how cheesy it looks how is it whack?
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lol I didn't draw it I found it. If I could have drawn one on my phone I would and basically you mentioned the same thing as this diagram but moving the positive leg for the stereo straight to one battery. Instead of to the perko switch. Besides how cheesy it looks how is it whack?
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They landed the alternator charge wire to battery one. Meaning if the switch was in position two, it won't charge.
GT
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They landed the alternator charge wire to battery one. Meaning if the switch was in position two, it won't charge.
GT
yes you are right, but as I said in my description to run the boat on both batteries so both will charge. :) I'm just try to give him example of what he can do with what he has. Not adding stuff and changing it around it will work perfectly fine this way.
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That diagram is whack.
jmo
Have you seen the 17th edition EWR on how to wire a house? Now that's some funny shizznit...
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They landed the alternator charge wire to battery one. Meaning if the switch was in position two, it won't charge.
GT
or just move that alternator charge cable to the starter or common doesn't really matter if you have continuity to both batteries your good
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That diagram is whack.
jmo
here's another ;)
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Had to make one... Excuse the kindergarten skills... I'm on my home PC... :screwy:
[attachimg=1]
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Had to make one... Excuse the kindergarten skills... I'm on my home PC... :screwy:
(Attachment Link)
yes this is with adding a isolator to what he has. Looks good, wheres your stereo cable?? Jm man, you ever run a fuse inline to the stereo?
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yes this is with adding a isolator to what he has. Looks good, wheres your stereo cable?? Jm man, you ever run a fuse inline to the stereo?
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Simply add the stereo power leads to the #2 post on the switch.
Never run a power lead from the rear of the boat to the front without a fuse or circuit breaker... Never.
GT
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Simply add the stereo power leads to the #2 post on the switch.
Never run a power lead from the rear of the boat to the front without a fuse or circuit breaker... Never.
GT
Yes this why I brought this up. Now do you fuse the positive or the negative?
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Yes this why I brought this up. Now do you fuse the positive or the negative?
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Positive... What is the negative going to short to?
GT
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A fuse on the positive lead does not protect your equipment from a short circuit on the positive lead. If you short a positive lead to ground you have just taken your piece of equipment out of circuit. A fuse protects a piece of equipment from increased current through the equipment (i.e. a bilge pump that has debris stuck in the impeller). Any increase in current will be felt on the negative side of your equipment first. A fuse on the negative side makes perfect sense but if you are uncomfortable about it fuse the positive side or both. Just make sure the fuse is the right size. Giving were talking fiberglass boats.
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Positive... What is the negative going to short to?
GT
Hey I'm just an electrician what do I know ;)
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A fuse on the positive lead does not protect your equipment from a short circuit on the positive lead. If you short a positive lead to ground you have just taken your piece of equipment out of circuit. A fuse protects a piece of equipment from increased current through the equipment (i.e. a bilge pump that has debris stuck in the impeller). Any increase in current will be felt on the negative side of your equipment first. A fuse on the negative side makes perfect sense but if you are uncomfortable about it fuse the positive side or both. Just make sure the fuse is the right size. Giving were talking fiberglass boats.
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I'm going to come off sounding like a dick here. Not my intent. I'm tired.
A fuse on the negative side does not protect the equipment. If high current is realized on the negative side, the equipment is already FUBAR.
I know where your going, but no.
The whole idea for the fuse on the positive side in a boat is to protect the wire. That's it. If the positive wire becomes shorted, the wire can potentially burn and catch the boat on fire.
GT
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I'm going to come off sounding like a dick here. Not my intent. I'm tired.
A fuse on the negative side does not protect the equipment. If high current is realized on the negative side, the equipment is already FUBAR.
I know where your going, but no.
The whole idea for the fuse on the positive side in a boat is to protect the wire. That's it. If the wrote becomes shorted, the wire can potentially burn and catch the boat on fire.
GT
You asked me why you would fuse a negative, I told you why and that is why, it won't short anything. Fuse as close as you can to the battery on the positive.
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Mine are inches from perko on all side. If you find switching your perko a inconvenience... Look at all the other things you might find that on to. Boating is a constant test of obligation/requirements.
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with my current setup (no isolater), will it drain both batteries being as they are connected by the negative wire? Also maybe i dont have it wired correctly. Do i need to run the positive wire from the amp to the perko, and then a shorter positive to the battery. I will take some pics later of the current setup for clarity. sorry if my questions are ridiculous but i am lost on electrical stuff.
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with my current setup (no isolater), will it drain both batteries being as they are connected by the negative wire? Also maybe i dont have it wired correctly. Do i need to run the positive wire from the amp to the perko, and then a shorter positive to the battery. I will take some pics later of the current setup for clarity. sorry if my questions are ridiculous but i am lost on electrical stuff.
The idea of the battery switch (aka Perko) is to provide the ability to switch batteries and turn the system off.
So it's not really ideal for using in this case, but will work.
You can hook the stereo equipment to the battery or the switch, it's the same thing. I just do the switch because it looks cleaner (imho).
DC volts travels from positive to negative, so you're fine with the grounds all bonded together that is the correct method. .
GT
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