SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => The No Wake Zone => Topic started by: MID-LAKE-CRISIS on May 17, 2013, 04:20:45 PM
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pulled the cover back for season opener oil change....surprise :-\
winter left me a present
both sides :'(
any advice on where to get a set is GREATLY appreciated. Glenwood / GM SB350
thx
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man that blows...
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Ouch.
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I have a set of those. They might be exact matches... Are your risers broke too? That I do not have.
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After looking more closely at the pictures, mine are not the same. Mine are upswept a bit.
I have some really bad news for you. If the manifolds froze hard enough to break, thee is an excellent cahnce the block is junk too...
Here is what you need to do right now.
Disconnect the hoses for the broken manifolds from the cooling system.
Hook the hoses together in such a way that the engine itself is completely closed off and pressurize the block to about 15 PSI if you can, it should hold pressure.
Sorry for the misfortune. Suck for sure.....
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After looking more closely at the pictures, mine are not the same. Mine are upswept a bit.
I have some really bad news for you. If the manifolds froze hard enough to break, thee is an excellent cahnce the block is junk too...
Here is what you need to do right now.
Disconnect the hoses for the broken manifolds from the cooling system.
Hook the hoses together in such a way that the engine itself is completely closed off and pressurize the block to about 15 PSI if you can, it should hold pressure.
Sorry for the misfortune. Suck for sure.....
thanks for checkin on those manifolds GT, finally got them off
(apparently dinner over-rides any little boat problems around here)
not being a mechanic, is there any frost plug(s) that would fail prior
to the block cracking?
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thanks for checkin on those manifolds GT, finally got them off
(apparently dinner over-rides any little boat problems around here)
not being a mechanic, is there any frost plug(s) that would fail prior
to the block cracking?
A small block Chevy has what are called Welch plugs, not really freeze plugs. That being said, if it pushed a welch plug, your done... 90% of the time the block cracks in the lifter valley and on the front left corner of the block. If they freeze really hard, they will knock a big window out of the side of the block and the cylinder walls.
Go get some dinner for crying out loud. Boats are supposed to be "fun", you cant have any "fun" while hungry. :-\
I suggest you pressure check the block and go from there.
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A small block Chevy has what are called Welch plugs, not really freeze plugs. That being said, if it pushed a welch plug, your done... 90% of the time the block cracks in the lifter valley and on the front left corner of the block. If they freeze really hard, they will knock a big window out of the side of the block and the cylinder walls.
Go get some dinner for crying out loud. Boats are supposed to be "fun", you cant have any "fun" while hungry. :-\
I suggest you pressure check the block and go from there.
thanks for your expertise , pressure test it is. dinners over rated,
silver bullets are gunna fly :beer: :beer:
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pressure test complete - news all bad :(
as per GT's advice, i tied together and plugged off all coolant lines,
used lower hose on left (drivers) side to clamp air valve into,
dropped trouble light in / air blowin straight at me ... foooked :banghead:
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man that sucks ! im sorry.
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man that sucks ! im sorry.
thx. chalk this one up to operator error
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thx. chalk this one up to operator error
Sh!t man...I'm sorry.
To bad you are so far away. I have an LT1 just dying to get into a boat......
Sent from my SGH-T989 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app
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Crapola!!!!!
Sorry to see that my brother ......
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thx guys...it's not like anybody died but it does suck sh#t
thx for ur help GT :beer:
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block casting #'s
V09242WN
3235008
SBC 350 4 bolt main .. searching out engines ?
wanna make change out as painless as possibe
wondering when/where/ what #s tell?
rear (drivers) side 14010207
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block casting #'s
V09242WN
3235008
SBC 350 4 bolt main .. searching out engines ?
wanna make change out as painless as possibe
wondering when/where/ what #s tell?
rear (drivers) side 14010207
Fairly generic 350 casting #, used in almost everything, '80-85, and you knew it was a 4 bolt main :thumbup:
Keep with a 80-85 motor if ya can, so dipstick & pan will be the same, & you can use yours
'86 up has a 1 piece rear main, needing a different flywheel/flexplate, small pattern, and driveshaft pto to match. 90 ish up may not have a mech. fuel pump provision
pre '79 the dipstick is on the other side, but have seen blocks with both pass. and driver side dipstick locations
Damn near any sbc from '55 to '85 will bolt in easily
383 or 400 (406) would be a good choice
OR
upgrade to a roller block, for roller on a budget (think ZZ4) pto/driveline change though
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Fairly generic 350 casting #, used in almost everything, '80-85, and you knew it was a 4 bolt main :thumbup:
Keep with a 80-85 motor if ya can, so dipstick & pan will be the same, & you can use yours
'86 up has a 1 piece rear main, needing a different flywheel/flexplate, small pattern, and driveshaft pto to match. 90 ish up may not have a mech. fuel pump provision
pre '79 the dipstick is on the other side, but have seen blocks with both pass. and driver side dipstick locations
Damn near any sbc from '55 to '85 will bolt in easily
383 or 400 (406) would be a good choice
OR
upgrade to a roller block, for roller on a budget (think ZZ4) pto/driveline change though
thanks for the info :beer: got a great reference on a respected shop here and the mechanic i spoke with
gave similar advice...ie 383 stroker & the upgrade to roller a must. thx again